Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2012 F250 - Rear Blocks Removal
Apr 28, 2015
I want to know if there are any issues when removing the rear block, also do I have to put a new block in or can I just leave it out ....
View 12 RepliesI want to know if there are any issues when removing the rear block, also do I have to put a new block in or can I just leave it out ....
View 12 RepliesI would like information how to remove the rear seat back on a 2012 F250. I want to remove the head rests and from what I can find out they are bolted solid to the rear panel. I asked the same question earlier and got a reply for 2011, would that be the same? Is there any place I could get a schematic, a picture is worth a thousand words.
View 5 RepliesI have a quick question, but thinking of changing out my stock OEM rear axle blocks for the 2012 F350 SD 4x4 SRW type.
Does it matter what the wheelbase is?? Model being a CC, SC, etc?
Or...are all 2012 F350 SRW rear axle blocks the same?
I've got a 2014 f250 xl super cab and can't for the life of me figure out how to remove the back seat back.
View 2 RepliesI need to replace the front passenger side wheel hub unit on my 2012 F250 4x4 120,000 mile reg cab truck. Its been a while but I did one on my 2000 F250 without any problems. There should be a few clips inside the hub that hold the looking hub and shaft together, right? Do I need any special tools for this job? What do the bolts need to be torqued to?
View 2 RepliesI have a 2014 F350 (specs in my signature) and I want to change the 4" rear blocks out for F250 2" blocks to lower the rear of the truck.
Looks like a fairly straight forward replacement but I have a few questions.
Will the shocks need to be replaced? I do eventuality want to replace them as the stock ones are not that great but I only have 2500 miles on them.
When I do order new shocks for my truck after the changing the blocks do I order shocks for a F250?
I would like to go OEM parts for this but I am having trouble finding the blocks and u-bolts that I need. What are the part numbers for these?
Anything else I should know about to do this swap?
I have a 2004 F250 Lariat Crew Cab FX4 6-3/4' bed.
What is the procedure to remove the Driver's side Rear Sway Bar Link upper bolt? - the link attaches to the frame. The nut is on the inside of the frame with about 1/3" to 2/3" clearance between the frame and the fuel tank. Of course, the frame's "C" shape faces towards the inside.
2012 f250 diesel Lariat 4dr 4x4. He called me today cause he knows I do all the work on my own F250 diesel. He has heated seats in the back and he said that they turn on by them selves and they won't turn off. He had to actually disconnect the wire harness to get the heating elements to turn off so his wife's friends wouldn't burn their bottoms in the middle of august is Texas.. Any ways, he said both sides are staying on and wouldn't turn off using the switch.
I'm not very familiar with the heated seat wiring, especially for the back seats. I told him their may have been a relay that went bad, but now I"m thinking that they much have a controller or something that is acting up. He said that the front seats are acting normal. Also, he has the touch screen and navigation upgrade as well as auto climate control, not sure if this stuff matters for the back seats though...
I'm putting a new double din stereo w/ backup camera in my truck, I have everything wired except the violet/white wire (from the stereo) that needs to be hooked to a wire (on the truck) that will activate the camera when you put it in reverse. I cannot figure where this wire is on the 2012 for the life of me.
View 3 RepliesI am trying to change out my solid back glass for a power slider that's oem... My question that ford could not answer is, is the wiring all in place minus the switch for the install.. I have a 2012 F250 XLT. I am not even sure where the switch to move the window would go either...
View 2 RepliesI dont want to pry on the wrong thing and brake something. I am trying to remove the headlight. I was told that their are some pins that need to be pulled up. I dont see any pins. I do see two plastic clips on each side of the headlight. They are flat on the top with a small slot in them. There is a "T" stamped on the top of it. Are these the pins? I tried to find a shop manual today without much luck. Looking for a picture to show the pins that need to be removed.
View 7 RepliesI am trying to replace the ball joint on my 2008 f-250. Does the hub assembly come off of the knuckle or do you remove the whole knuckle and hub assembly together? If you have to remove the hub assembly what is the best way?
View 14 RepliesHow to remove the overhead console on a 2012 F-250 ? I would like to tap into the wiring to power my radar detector.
View 7 RepliesLooking to sell my '12 F-250 turbo diesel Lariat. She's in great condition, and only 8000 miles. Her only sore point is some scratches and scuffs on the plastic cap on the top edge of the tailgate (see picture below). I think it's part # BC3Z-9940602-B.
How to remove this cap, preferably without breaking/scratching anything else. It looks like there are no external fasteners, so I'm guessing it's just held on with clips on its underside, or some such. It might be more obvious once I get and examine the replacement part, but just figured I'd ask.
I tried searching and googling but came to no results, unless its like similar trucks. How do the 4x4 shift remove? I have an 04 F250 and someone decided to put the shift on sideways so the 4HI and etc read upside down before I purchased the truck. Do I just rip the thing off?
View 1 RepliesI have a 1999 F-250 SRW 4x2. Is there a post that explains how to remove the front brake slide pins?
View 3 RepliesYesterday I returned my F-250 SUPERDUTY 5.4 To stock on the sct flash tuner that came on the truck. after returning it to stock i tried to start the truck to leave about an hour later and instantly wouldnt start it backfired. we returned it back to the tune that was on the truck, still no start. we replaced the starter, the battery still nothing. if it sits for a little while it will attempt to turn over. it has a strong odor of gas in which led me to possibly thinking its vapor locked? or the pcm being bad or maybe the crank shaft sensor? the truck has ran strong and had zero problems up until now when we took the tuner off. it runs about 6 codes now, a few being the kam the o2 and low voltage.
View 4 Repliesi've done some searching but haven't found any how-to's or instructions on how to remove the front bumper on my 06 f250. Any link on how to do it?
View 2 RepliesI want to get the rear fender flares on my dually painted, they had a few scuffs when I bought it & I will soon have some spare time to get it sorted. We can't get the truck in the paint booth so taking them off seems like the ideal solution. I have had a quick look & I think it's just a case of removing the plastic liner (screws & clips) then it looks like there are some nuts up inside the steel fender, disconnect the wiring & they should come off!
View 2 RepliesI started with removing the two bolts that hold the carrier bearing to the crossmember that attaches on each side of the frame, well the clip that basically would hold the "nut part" of the bolt on the top side sheared on both of them due to salt+calcium chloride.
It felt like there was a 6 point head up there so I tried fitting wrenches and sockets up on the other side, I finally got a good hold with an 11/16" wrench but it just kept rounding more and more. Normally I would just torch the heads off but the gas tank is right next to it.
Any tips for getting the carrier bearing bolts out now? I don't care if I destroy it they're easy to replace. Also I'm typing this from my phone so Incase my sig doesn't show this is on my 02 f250 crew short bed 4x4
I bought my 2000 F-250 CCSB a while ago and it came with 2 keys - one for the ignition, and one for the doors/tailgate - may not seem like a big deal, but it annoys me to no end.
From my understanding, the truck had previously been stolen and had the driver's side lock punched, and then something happened to the ignition lock to where it had to be replaced - hence the different key. I finally got around to replacing all the locks so that I'd only have one key. I started with the doors, then moved to the ignition (which I thought would be the easy part). I've replaced several cylinders before and I know it should be simple, but for the life of me I can't get the cylinder out!
I push the detent, turn the key to run, wiggle and pull.... nothing. I can feel the detent push in, and the cylinder will move a little, but it won't come out. I'm not sure if this is something that just happens sometimes and there's a fix for it, or if I'm in a unique circumstance and my column was somehow damaged during the theft and that's what's causing it.