Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2012 F250 - Oil Dripping On The Underside Of Front Of Engine
Jul 8, 2016
Ok so I bought this 2012 f250 and I had a couple questions.
1. I checked the Frame for rust n it was fine. I didn't look at the other parts until I got it home. It does have some light to moderate rusting on other areas under the engine compartment. Ex axle, drive shaft, some of the steering components. Exhaust Manifold is pretty rusty though. What can I do about that?
2. I noticed a little bit of oil, not dripping, on the underside of the front of the engine. I do have an extended warranty so i hope it will cover that. It's pretty extensive of a warranty. I took some pics of the area where there is oil. What could it be?
Most of the oil is focused around there ...
Top down view ...
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I've been noticing a grinding coming from the front end of my 2012 f250 4x4, mostly while turning. It seems like its worse over uneven terrain, bumpy dirt roads, things like that, but I have noticed it on occasion while on seemingly smooth roads. Also a couple times while turning and lightly braking I could feel it interfere with the brakes. They wouldn't grab completely and you could feel the grinding in the pedal. I've been crawling around looking for rub marks or any indication of what might be causing it but until recently I hadn't noticed anything. Today though I found this. I'm guessing bad ball joint or tie rod maybe? Maybe just need alignment?
Passenger side lower control arm ...
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I noticed my '12 F250 has grease zerks on the front axle u-joints and was wondering how often you need to grease them ? My truck has 10k on it and while I was changing the oil tonight I decided to give them a few shots of grease until it started coming out of the joint.
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I bought a 2006 F250 Super Duty about 3 months ago, and it's been doing fine. I backed it into the shed yesterday after work, and noticed a little while later, a small puddle of fluid under the front. I crawled under and looked up...the entire steering pump is wet and dripping. I thought at first it was engine oil coming down from above, but it seems to be steering fluid (or whatever is in the steering reservoir). Clear looking fluid/oil.
I've read about high-pressure hose leaks...exactly where is that hose? Is it the one that is nearly against the pulley on the bottom? Where the fluid could be coming from?
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I need to replace the front passenger side wheel hub unit on my 2012 F250 4x4 120,000 mile reg cab truck. Its been a while but I did one on my 2000 F250 without any problems. There should be a few clips inside the hub that hold the looking hub and shaft together, right? Do I need any special tools for this job? What do the bolts need to be torqued to?
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I have a 1999 F350 7.3 truck and when I shut off the engine I get a small drip of water (not antifreeze or oil) for about 20 seconds and then it stops. It's coming down from the passenger side somewhere under under the wheel well back around the firewall. Everything in the truck appears to be running normal and all fluids are at normal levels.
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Starting about 4 months ago, when starting my truck, the starter would miss; I would turn the key to start, then the starter spins and spools up very high and loud but not crank the engine. I have to turn the key off to make it stop and then try again. Usually the second or third time it will grab and turn the engine and start. It happens about once a week or once every 10 or 12 times I start my truck with all the other times being normal. Doesn't matter if it's a cold start or already warmed up. It's a 2012, 6.7L F250 with 52,000 miles. What is causing it and how it can be fixed.
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I have a question on the 2012 F-350 with 6.7. I have found after mid to long drives when I shut the truck down I can smell coolant when walking around the front of the engine. Seems more so from the driver side but i have yet to see any leaks or wet spots on the ground. I had the water pump and lower rad hose replaced last year under warranty and though it might have been residue but after a year and still smelling it it has to be something else. I only have 30,000km's left under warranty so if I need something replaced it should be soon
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I have an 03 F-250 6.0 Lariat with almost 200,000. The other day my t-stat started sticking and popping at 220 and then would go back to normal. Now it won't pop and it's puking coolant in the front of the engine. Would just a bad t-stat cause this or do I need to do my water pump as well.
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I have a 2002 F250 with 189,000 miles. Im having some very bad issues that im trying to fix. The truck idles rough, with fluctuating RPM's. In certain speed reanges it also shakes and runs rough. If I turn the overdrive off the shaking pretty much stops, but it still accelerates pretty slowly. There is also a whistling noise from the front of the truck until the engine warms up, someone told me it sounds like a bad intake manifold? Does that sound right? What could be going on with my truck? All spark plugs and coil packs have been replaced, as well as the fuel injector rails.
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I read in a thread about how fog lights need the auto light sensor or something in the kit to be installed and flashed.
My truck is a 2012 f250 XLT that I bought left over from a podunk town IN illinois. It does not have fog lights but it Does have automatic head lamps. So Im very confused on what kit to order to add fog lights to my truck.
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2012 F-250 6.2 gas 4X4 SC/SB: when I run WOT, or near that, from a slow speed, I hear a short "hiss" between the 1-2, 2-3, and i think 3-4 shifts. I can also feel that the engine eases up quite a bit during the shift, and it is kind of a slow, soft shift. It has about 2,000 miles on it. I bought it in March 2013 as a leftover (great price!). The door sticker says it was manufactured in 4/2012, so it sat on the lot for quite a while before i bought it. But i don't remember it doing this when it was newer (~500 miles).
With the lite weight of this configuration (it is an XL so it isn't even carrying around 4 speakers ha ha), and me rarely carrying a very heavy load (yet) or towing anything, I rarely have to step on it very much in normal driving... it hardly ever gets above 2,500 rpm unless I am just running it faster for fun.
The hiss and slow shift happen at any transmission temperature. Of course, it never has been above the left side of the "gear" pic on the temp gauge, where it always is after full warm-up. Well, I'm hoping it is just shifting soft like this because it has "learned" my lite-foot driving style (even when I'm in a hurry of course the engine rarely has to work very hard).
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I've got a 2012 F250 XLT with AM/FM/CD/AUX radio, and the display is not working. The radio functions fine, as do all other electronics on the truck, but the display is dark. I've tried pulling Fuse #29 in the passenger kick panel, and it looked fine. Is my radio toast?
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I have a 2012 F250, 6.2L, Crew Cab, FX4 with a little over 77,000 miles on it. I bought it used from a Ford dealership last summer. Prior to now, I've only had one issue with it and that was squirrel/rodent induced. Something chewed through the wiring harness right before the connection to the #7 cylinder. There was enough left over wire to solder it back together and put heat shrink around each wire.
It ran fine up until last weekend. The wife and I went to a store, she was driving and parked like a total jerk right in the front area of the parking lot. When we got back in the truck, she started it up and it was just running rough with hardly any power. My first thought was someone dumped something into the gas due to her amazing parking, but there were no smells or residue of anything near the gas cap when we got home only a couple miles away.
When I got home I ran my code scanner and found 300, 301, 305, 307, and 308. I dumped a bottle of ISO-Heet in it, let it sit for a bit then cranked her up and ran it for a few miles to the gas station and filled up...about 25/26 gallons, I don't remember...I was a little above 1/4 tank when this all started. No change in performance and the codes were all still the same. I pulled the MAF, it looked clean, but I wiped it down anyways and threw it back in. No change. I then changed all the plugs. This took care of 301 and 305 but 300, 307, and 308 were still coming up. I then picked up two new coil packs for cylinders 7 and 8, threw them on and still no change.
I sat with it running on a flat surface for a little while revving the engine randomly for about 15 minutes, during this I noticed a fast tapping noise at about 3400 RPM, it went away quickly with no changes in the gauges on the dash. I cant really tell where it's coming from, but kinda sounds like its under the middle of the truck. While sitting there I ran the codes again, and now its back to 300, 301, 307, and 308. I'm now at a loss of what to even look at...
I've also checked the voltage coming off the harness at the connector to the coil packs...just under 11 volts. I've searched all over for what that voltage is supposed to be, but have failed miserably in my searches.
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I have a 2012 F250 King Ranch with the FX4 package. I have a goose neck ball and have recently bought a 37' fifth wheel. The rear of my truck sits a touch lower than the front and anytime I'm hooked to a trailer it looks to be squatted way down. It actually is dropping maybe 3". I am looking to replace the shocks which are Rancho's as I have 55k miles on. I'm wondering about shock types, air bags, springs??? Just don't know what my best option is.
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I just purchased a 2012 F250 XLT with the 6.2. It has 38,000 miles on it. Yesterday I noticed, when coming to a stop, the idle will sometimes drop below 500. The engine will stumble a little, then the RPM will jump up to 1,000. Twice it has stalled on me. When it stalls, the engine will restart just fine. No codes in the computer or warning lights on the dash.
I will be bringing it back to carmax, as it is under their 30 day warranty still. Hopefully they will be able to figure out something. I am thinking either the TB needs to be cleaned, or there is an issue with the canister purge valve. I saw the TSB for the CPV but it doesn't cover my truck.
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I want to know if there are any issues when removing the rear block, also do I have to put a new block in or can I just leave it out ....
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2012 f250, fog lights stopped working and tried fixing yesterday. I'm getting 12.8v at the plug but as soon as you plug the light in it goes to 0. Ran a new ground from frame and the hot from plug and still nothing. High beams off, truck running and switch pulled out. Bulb is fine, hooked it straight to battery and it comes on. I though it was a faulty ground but by running a separate ground and still nothing. I'm at a lose.
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A buddy's 2012 f250 message center is not working at all. He replaced the fuse and it's still not working. The gauges work but not the high tech information center. He isn't sure if it's out of warranty because he can't see the miles. I'm not sure that's it's anywhere related but his back up sensors do not work either.
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I would like information how to remove the rear seat back on a 2012 F250. I want to remove the head rests and from what I can find out they are bolted solid to the rear panel. I asked the same question earlier and got a reply for 2011, would that be the same? Is there any place I could get a schematic, a picture is worth a thousand words.
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I have a 2012 F250 and am having a problem where the interior lights wont come on with the dash switch or when the doors are opened. I have confirmed that it is not a bad fuse, also the lights will come on when the switch on the individual lights is manually pushed, but not automatically like they are supposed to. I dont see it being a door switch issue because the door chime comes on and the stereo goes off when the doors are opened after turning the ignition switch off. I've read that the dealerships will switch out the BCM. I thought maybe the dimmer switch next to the headlight switch but there is no power to it whatsoever, which also I can't dim the instrument panel lights. What did you do to resolve?
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