Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2012 F250 - Hissing Between Shifts When Run WOT
May 18, 2013
2012 F-250 6.2 gas 4X4 SC/SB: when I run WOT, or near that, from a slow speed, I hear a short "hiss" between the 1-2, 2-3, and i think 3-4 shifts. I can also feel that the engine eases up quite a bit during the shift, and it is kind of a slow, soft shift. It has about 2,000 miles on it. I bought it in March 2013 as a leftover (great price!). The door sticker says it was manufactured in 4/2012, so it sat on the lot for quite a while before i bought it. But i don't remember it doing this when it was newer (~500 miles).
With the lite weight of this configuration (it is an XL so it isn't even carrying around 4 speakers ha ha), and me rarely carrying a very heavy load (yet) or towing anything, I rarely have to step on it very much in normal driving... it hardly ever gets above 2,500 rpm unless I am just running it faster for fun.
The hiss and slow shift happen at any transmission temperature. Of course, it never has been above the left side of the "gear" pic on the temp gauge, where it always is after full warm-up. Well, I'm hoping it is just shifting soft like this because it has "learned" my lite-foot driving style (even when I'm in a hurry of course the engine rarely has to work very hard).
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I have a 2015 ford f250 xlt crew cab, 6.2, fx4 with about 1200 miles on it. My questions are, I have noticed a hissing or whistling noise while accelerating. I took to dealer and was told it was the throttle plates not closing all the way.I was told they all do this. Normal? Very annoying noise with windows down. Another noise I have been having is the brake pedal makes a popping noise while applying pressure to brakes. Dealer said brake pedal assembly was out of alignment. They said was out of alignment 1/8". After adjustment within a few days popping started again.
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Have a Whistling or hissing sound while accelerating? My 2015 6.2 seems to make this sound while under load. I took to dealer and they claim its the throttle plates not closing all the way. Claims this is normal, but to me it is annoying. Just would like to know what others think.
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I recently purchased a 04 f250 with the 6.0l powerstroke. I drove it for about 3 weeks now, Ive put my trailer behind it with small loads and just today tried to use the tow/haul button. When you go to pull out the tranny never shifts from first gear?? Its pulls and runs fine until you push the buttan and no shifting........
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I have a 2011 F250 with the 6.2 34000 miles and my Transmission shifts hard between 2-3 and 4-5 took it to the Ford dealer and they said it is the shift solenoids are bad but it is cause from the Powertrain Control Module and its not covered by the warranty because it is part of the emission system.
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I have a 1994 F-250 XLT heavy duty model. No warning lights are on. A few times a month my transmission will start shifting hard, kicking into the next gear. The odd thing is, if I reset the computer it stops. Shifts smooth as butter. The fluid is a vibrant red and the fluid looks great like it's new. What is going on? I'm getting tired of having this happen. The truck has 108,500 miles on it.
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Driving up a slight hill unloaded yesterday at about 40mph constant pedal pressure the truck shifts into neutral...at least that's what it feels like. Revs go up and no power. When I take my foot off the pedal the transmission catches and drives fine. There is no bucking or hard shifting, just that slipping. What it could be? This problem arose suddenly....never had any problems prior. It is not an issue that has gotten worse over time...
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I have 99 f350 v10 4x4 and trans shifts great under light rpms but 2-3 shifts very hard. At wide open from about 35 mph it will shift down and take off like a bullet but wont shift until I lift my foot and then it bangs hard from 2-3. All other gears are smooth. I did some searching and have found some threads saying it could be an accumulator spring that is broken? Truck has 115,000 miles on it. love the truck but want to fix this before it does some damage.
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I read in a thread about how fog lights need the auto light sensor or something in the kit to be installed and flashed.
My truck is a 2012 f250 XLT that I bought left over from a podunk town IN illinois. It does not have fog lights but it Does have automatic head lamps. So Im very confused on what kit to order to add fog lights to my truck.
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I've got a 2012 F250 XLT with AM/FM/CD/AUX radio, and the display is not working. The radio functions fine, as do all other electronics on the truck, but the display is dark. I've tried pulling Fuse #29 in the passenger kick panel, and it looked fine. Is my radio toast?
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I have a 2012 F250, 6.2L, Crew Cab, FX4 with a little over 77,000 miles on it. I bought it used from a Ford dealership last summer. Prior to now, I've only had one issue with it and that was squirrel/rodent induced. Something chewed through the wiring harness right before the connection to the #7 cylinder. There was enough left over wire to solder it back together and put heat shrink around each wire.
It ran fine up until last weekend. The wife and I went to a store, she was driving and parked like a total jerk right in the front area of the parking lot. When we got back in the truck, she started it up and it was just running rough with hardly any power. My first thought was someone dumped something into the gas due to her amazing parking, but there were no smells or residue of anything near the gas cap when we got home only a couple miles away.
When I got home I ran my code scanner and found 300, 301, 305, 307, and 308. I dumped a bottle of ISO-Heet in it, let it sit for a bit then cranked her up and ran it for a few miles to the gas station and filled up...about 25/26 gallons, I don't remember...I was a little above 1/4 tank when this all started. No change in performance and the codes were all still the same. I pulled the MAF, it looked clean, but I wiped it down anyways and threw it back in. No change. I then changed all the plugs. This took care of 301 and 305 but 300, 307, and 308 were still coming up. I then picked up two new coil packs for cylinders 7 and 8, threw them on and still no change.
I sat with it running on a flat surface for a little while revving the engine randomly for about 15 minutes, during this I noticed a fast tapping noise at about 3400 RPM, it went away quickly with no changes in the gauges on the dash. I cant really tell where it's coming from, but kinda sounds like its under the middle of the truck. While sitting there I ran the codes again, and now its back to 300, 301, 307, and 308. I'm now at a loss of what to even look at...
I've also checked the voltage coming off the harness at the connector to the coil packs...just under 11 volts. I've searched all over for what that voltage is supposed to be, but have failed miserably in my searches.
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I have a 2012 F250 King Ranch with the FX4 package. I have a goose neck ball and have recently bought a 37' fifth wheel. The rear of my truck sits a touch lower than the front and anytime I'm hooked to a trailer it looks to be squatted way down. It actually is dropping maybe 3". I am looking to replace the shocks which are Rancho's as I have 55k miles on. I'm wondering about shock types, air bags, springs??? Just don't know what my best option is.
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I just purchased a 2012 F250 XLT with the 6.2. It has 38,000 miles on it. Yesterday I noticed, when coming to a stop, the idle will sometimes drop below 500. The engine will stumble a little, then the RPM will jump up to 1,000. Twice it has stalled on me. When it stalls, the engine will restart just fine. No codes in the computer or warning lights on the dash.
I will be bringing it back to carmax, as it is under their 30 day warranty still. Hopefully they will be able to figure out something. I am thinking either the TB needs to be cleaned, or there is an issue with the canister purge valve. I saw the TSB for the CPV but it doesn't cover my truck.
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I've been noticing a grinding coming from the front end of my 2012 f250 4x4, mostly while turning. It seems like its worse over uneven terrain, bumpy dirt roads, things like that, but I have noticed it on occasion while on seemingly smooth roads. Also a couple times while turning and lightly braking I could feel it interfere with the brakes. They wouldn't grab completely and you could feel the grinding in the pedal. I've been crawling around looking for rub marks or any indication of what might be causing it but until recently I hadn't noticed anything. Today though I found this. I'm guessing bad ball joint or tie rod maybe? Maybe just need alignment?
Passenger side lower control arm ...
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I want to know if there are any issues when removing the rear block, also do I have to put a new block in or can I just leave it out ....
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2012 f250, fog lights stopped working and tried fixing yesterday. I'm getting 12.8v at the plug but as soon as you plug the light in it goes to 0. Ran a new ground from frame and the hot from plug and still nothing. High beams off, truck running and switch pulled out. Bulb is fine, hooked it straight to battery and it comes on. I though it was a faulty ground but by running a separate ground and still nothing. I'm at a lose.
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A buddy's 2012 f250 message center is not working at all. He replaced the fuse and it's still not working. The gauges work but not the high tech information center. He isn't sure if it's out of warranty because he can't see the miles. I'm not sure that's it's anywhere related but his back up sensors do not work either.
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I would like information how to remove the rear seat back on a 2012 F250. I want to remove the head rests and from what I can find out they are bolted solid to the rear panel. I asked the same question earlier and got a reply for 2011, would that be the same? Is there any place I could get a schematic, a picture is worth a thousand words.
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I have a 2012 F250 and am having a problem where the interior lights wont come on with the dash switch or when the doors are opened. I have confirmed that it is not a bad fuse, also the lights will come on when the switch on the individual lights is manually pushed, but not automatically like they are supposed to. I dont see it being a door switch issue because the door chime comes on and the stereo goes off when the doors are opened after turning the ignition switch off. I've read that the dealerships will switch out the BCM. I thought maybe the dimmer switch next to the headlight switch but there is no power to it whatsoever, which also I can't dim the instrument panel lights. What did you do to resolve?
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Ever since I bought this vehicle, the dashboard lights won't light up unless it is totally dark out. For example, yesterday I am driving in heavy rain during daytime (but pretty dark out!) and Autolamp turns on the headlights...but none of the dash lights! I always thought the dash lights should be on if the headlamps are on. Sometimes just the needles light up. How do I know if my lights are actually on if no dash lights are on?
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The latest addition to the driveway (2012 F250 XL 6.2) is getting ready to be geared up for it's tour of duty. The one thing that was on the would-be-nice but not must-have list was cruise control. This truck doesn't have it, which wasn't a deal breaker because the truck was way inside my budget.
So anyways, while researching hitches, tonneau covers, steps, etc. I came across this : [URL] ....
Is this all I need to install the speed control? I would assume the dealer would have to get into the logic and enable something, but is this switch really all the hardware I need to buy?
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