Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2012 - Drive With Rear Driveshaft Removed?
Jul 23, 2013
I want to and went to buy a new 2012 F350 leftover - everything is good except that Ford.com says the truck was initially put into service In September of 2012 and therefore my warranty will expire in September of 2015 instead 2016.
Dealer says it's an error and will be corrected AFTER I buy the truck, so far I have been unable to get a straight answer from Ford.
Any information about being able ot change the original date a vehicle is put into service ?
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When I bought my 05 350 dually it had been wrecked, the rear diff was under the bumper and most of the rear suspension, including the back part of the rear drive shaft was in the bed of the truck. I have gotten everything back in place, and have driven the truck for a few weeks, but I knew I was going to have to replace the ujoints because there was visible damage to one of the caps. I have also had a vibration at about 45 mph. I had no way of knowing how the original driveshaft was oriented at the slip yoke so I went with best guess. Now in my research I read that if the driveshaft is not put back exactly in the same position vis a vis the slip yoke it will be out of balance.
Also if the drive shaft is dropped it is scrap, and if I have any lift on the truck {it had 4 inches when I got it} the whole thing will shake itself to pieces. Most of the answers to other drive shaft questions talk about taking things to a good driveshaft shop. No such thing here in the vast stretches of My state. I am pretty much on my own as far as building or repairing this thing. Is there any way to determine how the shaft was originally oriented? I also have some damage on the end of the yoke and will have some trouble getting the ujoint apart. Is the shaft now junk? And if I get an ebay replacement, how do I tell if that shaft is in the right orientation?
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Proper alignment and re-installation of the front spline on the rear driveshaft of my 2015 F350.
I removed my rear driveshaft recently (it slipped right out upon removal without any force or resistance), and I'm getting ready to re-install it again this weekend, but I've noticed that one of the grooves between the array of male splines on the shaft itself appears to be slightly different than the rest - it seems to be slightly wider. It even has a white-colored stripe of paint down the full length of the groove as if it were denoting it as being somehow different from the rest?
Problem is, when visually inspecting the splines on the inside of the receiving yoke (the part that the spline fits into), I do NOT see any such differences. In other words, it doesn't appear that there is only ONE way to properly insert the front splined-end of the driveshaft. What am I missing here?
Is the front splined-end of the rear driveshaft intended to be inserted into the yoke in ANY position around the dial? Or is there only ONE specific position or orientation that it is intended to be inserted or installed? NOTE: I've seen references elsewhere on-line that seem to indicate the need for proper alignment when there are multiple U-Joints, and maybe this is a part of it (?), but I'm not quite sure which U-Joints to consider or how to interpret such an "alignment".
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What would I need to replace in order to fix this leak ?
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I was having a problem with 4wd and regreased/ cleaned hubs and when I went to test operation both fronts would engage and worked good. After a while.of testing in and out of 4wd I heard a loud clunk and looked under, the front driveshaft blew apart at the weld.the u joints dont seem to be bad so im at a loss as why this snapped. It was not a clean break and the edges looked like it had to started to tear at some part in the past due to rust build upon the inside.of the shaft and torn edge. Im lookin at 2 feet of snow expected here Tuesday, so im trying to find some answers as well as a.new shaft.
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Rear-most connection before pumpkin, need to replace the U-Joint. I got the four bolts out at the flange but the shaft won't drop. I beat on the connection a bit, not enough to hurt though. What am I missing? How the heck do I get this apart and drop the shaft to replace the U-Joint???
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For starters I have a 1999 F-250 5.4l changed all 4 ball joints about 15,000 miles ago. I have been hearing a grinding noise coming from the front end for the last month only when I turn left and at slow speeds. I was servicing the TC so I threw it in 4 wheel to check it and it wouldn't engage until I started moving. When it did engage it was a bad grinding/ clunking sound coming from maybe the differential.
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I have a 2004 F350 with a broken drive shaft.
Got the original shaft off and it has the following part number (2C34-4K145-DNA)
but I've since learned that the part number has changed but the only info I could get was 2???. 4R602DQA.
Trying to find the part number so I can find it under 750.00 from the dealer
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On my way to see my folks and I started feeling a vibration like driveshaft or wheel bearing between 45-55 mph then at about 75 then BOOM! Pulled over and found a pool of ATF thought my stock 4R100 just bit the dust but looking at it the fluid is coming from the front driveshaft at the Tcase. My hubs are unlocked and my ESOF is in 2HI but I assume my tcase was locked. Also since the tcase is probably screwed I'm goin to do the 271 with manual hub swap, how hard that is?
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My 2012 F250 6.2L (Gas) engine developed a noticeable drone/vibration when in drive between 1600 - 1800rpm. RPMs above and below that range is fine. But when accelerating, as soon as the RPMs reach 1600, you can feel a slight vibration through the gas pedal and a noticeable sharp draon/moan up till about 1800 or 1900 rpm, then its normal.
I took it to my ford dealer and took the service manager out for a test drive. He said that there is a drone and slight vibration withing that RPM range. He thought that the engine mounts may be loose. But aside all that, he felt something was off and wrote up the service order.
When to pick up the truck and now the service manager changes his tune and said that the drone is normal and happens on all 6.2L super duties.
To be honest, I have the feeling he is pulling my chain.
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We've gone through pretty much every other option as to the vibration on take off and other high torque situations and have pretty much settled on the the driveshaft as the issue. I added traction bars recently thinking that the old leaf springs just aren't up to the job anymore. That seems to have worked some but it's still there. We've gone through the rear diff also and that's good. I'm looking at options for replacement of the shaft. What are the current thoughts on one piece shafts? Is aluminum the better option?
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I need to tap a bigger hole and put in an insert for the spark plug. I can see that the piston is far enough down so that it won't get harmed from the process. But if I don't get the intake and exhaust valves shut, and then use compressed air to blow out what chips I can, and then I start the engine for a few seconds to blow out anything else (with the coil unplugged of course) will a few remaining chips, along with some that may have gotten blown into the intake, be a big problem? It's an aluminum head, so I can't see the chips doing much damage before they go out the exhaust or end up in the oil filter. But I am just guessing. I don't have the tool to test when all the valves are shut. Also, is it possible that a valve might be in the way and get damaged from the tap?
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I have a quick question, but thinking of changing out my stock OEM rear axle blocks for the 2012 F350 SD 4x4 SRW type.
Does it matter what the wheelbase is?? Model being a CC, SC, etc?
Or...are all 2012 F350 SRW rear axle blocks the same?
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I want to know if there are any issues when removing the rear block, also do I have to put a new block in or can I just leave it out ....
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I would like information how to remove the rear seat back on a 2012 F250. I want to remove the head rests and from what I can find out they are bolted solid to the rear panel. I asked the same question earlier and got a reply for 2011, would that be the same? Is there any place I could get a schematic, a picture is worth a thousand words.
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New 2012 SD - Is it normal? Going over road bumps, etc causes a metallic sound, kind of like you had some loose metal in the bed bounding around...except it does it when the bed is empty. At first, I thought spare tire...but it is tight. Springs making noise? My father's 2011 F-150 does not make any noise.
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2012 f250 diesel Lariat 4dr 4x4. He called me today cause he knows I do all the work on my own F250 diesel. He has heated seats in the back and he said that they turn on by them selves and they won't turn off. He had to actually disconnect the wire harness to get the heating elements to turn off so his wife's friends wouldn't burn their bottoms in the middle of august is Texas.. Any ways, he said both sides are staying on and wouldn't turn off using the switch.
I'm not very familiar with the heated seat wiring, especially for the back seats. I told him their may have been a relay that went bad, but now I"m thinking that they much have a controller or something that is acting up. He said that the front seats are acting normal. Also, he has the touch screen and navigation upgrade as well as auto climate control, not sure if this stuff matters for the back seats though...
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I'm putting a new double din stereo w/ backup camera in my truck, I have everything wired except the violet/white wire (from the stereo) that needs to be hooked to a wire (on the truck) that will activate the camera when you put it in reverse. I cannot figure where this wire is on the 2012 for the life of me.
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I am trying to change out my solid back glass for a power slider that's oem... My question that ford could not answer is, is the wiring all in place minus the switch for the install.. I have a 2012 F250 XLT. I am not even sure where the switch to move the window would go either...
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I have a 1999 Ford F250 super duty 4wheel drive, lifted (really a leveling kit but had to lift rear to compensate), 5.4l. Im having a problem with my front shaft turning while in 2 wheel drive. Hubs aren't locked and its in 2 wheel not 4. I've taken hubs off and the bearing spins free soo I know its in auto. Why is the drive shaft still turning???????
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I've been tracking down all sorts of issues in my Excursion 4x4 lately and I have a few questions. I have an issue where everything is spinning as I drive even in 2wd. I gutted my hubs and removed the driveshaft. I had new u joints put in the front shaft today and re installed it. I still have the same issue of everything spinning while driving in 2. I had my marks move with the shaft in or out. I assume its getting toward front axle joint time. The shop owner said there should not be any movement in 2 but every SD I've seen has the axles spinning driving around town. I'm just confused because I have the entire driver side axle move when I spin the shaft by hand.
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