Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2011 F250 - Electrical Lost In Cab After Headlight Bulb Replacement
Dec 23, 2016
I went to replace a headlight bulb and now I lost electric in the cab. I have no interior lights, no power window or door locks, turn the key on, no crank, no cluster, no radio, no chimes, the upfitter switches work, the mirrors power fold and telescope. Have power to both fuse boxes and battery is fully charged.
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How to change my map light bulbs over the front seat of my new (to me) 2010 F250 King Ranch with a sunroof. I have tried to remove the whole assembly with a plastic trim tool with no success. I have pulled as hard as I dare and figure there must be a procedure I am missing. It appears to me that the whole assembly has to be pulled down.
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I found one thread in FTE regarding replacing instrument cluster bulbs but the solution was to contact Circuit Board Medics. I have one dark area on the right side of the tach and another dark area on the left side of the speedo. Probably the same bulb that's out. Also, can attempt to replace the bulbs (assuming its a bulb and not a fiber optic of some sort) in the steering wheel volume and fan controls?
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How to remove the orange cover to replace the bulb in the driver side mirror - tried but worried I'm going to break it...
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I have an 03 F250, 5.4, 4x4, with aprox. 130k miles. I recently had my exhaust manifolds replaced because 1 literally cracked in half. Ever since the replacement, I'm getting worse gas mileage! Im only getting aprox. 250 miles to a tank when before it was well over 325 (highway)...
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I have a 2011 f250 sd that I removed the front grill and noticed 3 of the clips that hold the lower part of the grill in (bolts on the top) are broke. I went to the local Ford dealer for the clips and was told I have to buy the whole complete grille for it. The parts breakdown doesn't show the clips sold individually from the grille.
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I'm really not satisfied with my Ford F350 SDC headlight bulbs!! I need a BRIGHTER bulb suggestion that won't break the bank and not have to add ballasts and rewire the circuit...
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2013 F350 passenger headlight bulb keeps blowing both high and low? Replaced 2 times now?
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Using LED replacement bulbs? I have a 2008 super duty. Want to upgrade lighting.
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I have searched everywhere, but I can't find the information I need for anything newer than 2007. I have the instrument cluster removed, and I can't figure out how to get to the bulb. In previous years, it just twisted out, but this one is different.
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I have an 05 F-250 with the 5.4 liter motor, 4" lift, 35" tires 4x4. I have not had any problems with the truck and have 110,000 miles on it. the only thing I even did to it was replace an alternator. Recently it seems to have lost power.
I use the truck mainly for hauling my smaller horse trailer which is roughly 7500 fully loaded but most times i haul it at about 5500lbs.
I also have a 2003 7.3 which we pull at 20,000lbs no problem
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I dont want to pry on the wrong thing and brake something. I am trying to remove the headlight. I was told that their are some pins that need to be pulled up. I dont see any pins. I do see two plastic clips on each side of the headlight. They are flat on the top with a small slot in them. There is a "T" stamped on the top of it. Are these the pins? I tried to find a shop manual today without much luck. Looking for a picture to show the pins that need to be removed.
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I have a 99 F250 5.4l 4x4 Super Duty that just all of a sudden stopped going over 30mph. I was traveling down the highway at 70mph and all of a sudden the truck acted as if it were in neutral and started revving up. i let off the gas and the problem stopped. i went to pass someone and it occurred again. I slowed down to 65mph and a couple minutes later it did it again. I wasn't too far from home so i drove it there. By the time i got around the corner I had the truck in second gear to prevent me from going over 25mph. i allowed the truck to rest and then checked the transmission fluid and everything looked good. There was a slight squeak that had just started and appeared to be coming from the drive shaft. I am mechanically inclined but new to working on vehicles..
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I have a 2010 F250 with the V10 and 42000 miles. Lost*power*while pulling a trailer. Couldn't get over 30 mph. Tried turning back home and lost all*power*and would barely idle. Fuel filter good air filter good. Code P0300 came up. Towed it back to the house and then couldn't even get it to idle. Wouldn't throttle up past about 2800 rpm. Cleaned MAF sensor and nothing. Somewhere during all that P0174 code came up and misfire cylinder 10. Cleared codes and they haven't come back. Now when trying to crank, it barely turns over, yet battery is good. Opened air filter cover after getting it to start one time and there was some light smoke coming out. Also while barely keeping it running for a little bit, the catalytic converter on the driver side was fire hot and the other side I could grab with my hand.
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I have a 2009 F 250 5.4L, couple days ago it acted as if the alternator had gone out and killed the battery. I swapped batteries with a coworker to get the truck home and when I hooked the battery back up, the battery and the alternator both tested fine. I've put the voltmeter on periodically and everything seems to be fine and all electronics are working except for the radio. I did a light test on the fuse and it showed a bad fuse so I tested the fuse and it tested fine and I put a new fuse in and tried the light test again and it failed. What the problem could be?
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When you turn the headlight switch to the headlight on position, you can pull it out exhibiting a positive click as if it is an additional switch for maybe optional fog lights. If the headlight switch is in the off or running lights only position, this will not pull out. I reviewed the elect. diagram but it does not show and addition circuit for the pull switch functionality?
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2006 F250 and my passenger light was out. I thought it was a bad bulb and I wanted to upgrade anyway so I bought some Slyvania Ultra headlights. Pulled out the old bulb and it didn't appear to be broken, but I installed the new upgraded lights anyway. Still not coming on. I tried the hi beams and still nothing. Got an electrical probe to test the wires and still no juice. Where the wires run to so I can try to find the break in the line? I'm assuming there is not a seperate fuse for the passenger side...On a side note when I went hunting a few weeks ago I had some kind of animal make a nest under the hood, its possible a mouse/rat/squirrel ate my headlight wire, but the nest was in the top center of the engine by the turbo and oil filter.
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While driving up hill at 60mph the truck lost power. Rpm jumped up as to change gears as it hit 55mph. Still losing power until it shut off. I tried to restart and just got a click from the solenoid. No engine codes whatsoever. Battery had 12.1 volts but when turning the key to start in getting 8 volts. Had it towed home. Today I swapped batteries with my other truck and same click noise from solenoid. All lights, radio, ect still work. Where should I start? Alternator, fuses...?? 2008 f250 5.4 ...
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I recently had need of replacing my left exhaust manifold on a 2000 F250 4 x 4. I removed plastic inner fender well. Now I have a two pin harness with both white wires. One is white with red stripe, the other is white with black stripe. The harness is round with a locking square on one side. The harness is located about 10" from bottom of inner left plastic fender panel. It has 2 mounting pegs. Where the heck does this connect?
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My 2008 250 suddenly lost ability to adjust temp control of heat and A/C. I can adjust the fan speed and the defrost/dash vents/foot heater position controls, but no matter how far I turn the cold/hot dial left or right, the temp is the same. Even in the Max and Norm A/C setting, it's the same temp, which is stuck in the hot range.
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Replacing the evaporator? I am just curious how big of a job it is. I have the a/c equipment to service the system. Its on my 01 f-250 with a 7.3.
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