Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2011 - Slight Popping Noise When Turning Steering Wheel
Feb 4, 2012
I have a 2011 F250 4x4 with 8000 miles. I put a 3.5" ReadyLift on it at 3500miles and Rancho dual stabilizers at 5000miles. This past week I've started to noticed my truck's steering making slight popping noises when turning the steering wheel. I crawled under the truck today and I can't pin point the orgin of the noise. It seems it is coming from higher up in the steering system possibly. It doesn't seem to be from the wheels or tie rod.
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My steering wheel makes a popping noise at the same location every time I turn it, ie the 7:00 position. The popping is within the steering column inside the truck and sounds like its right behind the airbag. Its simply a popping noise and slight movement in the steering every time I turn the steering wheel from 12 to 7. I have no clue what it is and cant figure it out. My truck is a 2008 F250 2WD 5.4
This is a video of another person who appears to have the same exact problem, hopefully this will add some clarity to what I was trying to describe above. If you notice, when he turns it to the right, his steering wheel pops in the exact same location every time as well which is what mine is doing when I turn it to the left.
2010 f150 steering wheel pop - YouTube ....
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I've noticed lately when I turn the steering wheel slowly I get a slight creaking sound from somewhere behind the wheel. What is causing it and if it's worth tearing it apart to fix it. I only notice the noise when the radio is off and turning the wheel while sitting still.
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How many rounds can you turn your steering wheel each way? Mine goes not quite 2 rounds, I think it's been limited.
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I had some steering issues with my truck so took it for an evaluation at pep boys. They recommended a new steering gear box and tie rod that hooks to the pitman arm so I had them replace them. Steering was improved but now the wheel is canted to the left or right depending on when I make a turn. When I make a left turn, the wheel is canted about 10 o'clock. When I make a right turn, it's canted about 1 o'clock.
I looked under and had my brother turn the wheel and didn't really notice any thing loose. I lifted the front and noticed the left wheel bearings need to be replaced. I also noticed the shocks were shot and replaced them but it didn't make a difference in the crooked wheel.
Do you think it's the wheel bearing that can cause this? How about the ball joints? The truck has 407k miles and I bought it a month ago. Previous owner said he never replaced any steering components. Should I just replace all steering components with the Moog kit? I'd like to hold off on the $600+ kit for now as I just bought a a boat and the boat needs some stuff. I hope to find that one thing (hopefully not more) that's loose.
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This is probably a strange request but I did just get a 2011 F250 XL. The SYNC and audio controls on the steering wheel was an available option, but my truck does not have it. I didn't ask for it to be required in the vehicle search, just one of those "if it has it, awesome" things. I am looking to add the buttons to control the radio and MAYBE SYNC for the bluetooth feature if this is possible.
I know to add SYNC I need a radio that's ready for it, which mine is, and a microphone somewhere and all of that so that's not to be done until a later date. My old F150 had the radio controls on the wheel and I miss that. Can I add the radio controls on the wheel? And maybe SYNC without needing to add a Parrot device for bluetooth? Or am I SOL on both?
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Starting about a year ago, "sometimes" when I step on the brakes and am turning the steering wheel, I loose the power steering. I took it to Ford and they said that this is a a known issue but they didn't say what it would take to fix it. Because this problem is intermittent it is very hard to get this fixed unless the mechanic can experience and verify the problem for himself...
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I recently had a close encounter with some large rocks on a bad road and broke the power steering cooler. I lost some fluid and pressure as I had no brakes and it steered like a log truck. Replaced the damaged part and added fluid. I was informed by ford technician that air in the lines would make noise but would eventually work itself out. Well the brakes work and steering is getting better but it is noisy with steering and brakes. How long should it take to get the air out? PS the fluid looks foamy now. I should also mention it was making a slight humming noise before the incident with the rock.
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So as of 2 weeks ago there is a popping sound coming from somewhere behind the cab when I'm turning in reverse. Its intermittent and only happens once or twice when I'm pulling out of a parking spot. It doesn't happen every time. Probably about 4 times a week but it only happens when its cold and been sitting. It doesn't happen when I'm driving in 2wd or 4wd. I was wondering what it could be and if its gonna be something I can afford to hold off on for awhile.
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99 F-250 Ext cab 4x4 7.3 285,000 miles.
I got home today opened my door and got snaked in the face with the smell of brakes. I got out of the truck then I heard the drivers side rear brakes popping as they are cooling down. I reached down to touched the wheel and it's crazy hot. Opened the garage and went to retrieve the infared thermometer. The rotor/caliper was 350 degrees, hub was 150 degrees, axle tube was 90 degrees.
I took the wheel off and inspected stuff. The rotors do have some heat spots, the caliper visibly looks okay but not 100%. The pads look like even wear. I am guessing that the caliper either is hanging up or I have a wheel bearing going? The passenger side was like 80 degrees on everything. There is a slight shimmy while driving which to me feels to me like the beginning of warped rotors. I don't hear anything to me that screams wheel bearing noise wise.Brakes or bearings?
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I took my truck to an alignment shop to have him look over my truck to find a steering wheel jerk and a loud clunk noise. He believes it's in the transfer case driveline. Said to remove the driveline then drive it around and see if it goes away, if it does then that's the problem. So to the question, how to properly take this out? Do I need to make marks with a paint pen anywhere to line things back up or does it matter?
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2004 F250 SuperDuty 6.0L Diesel. The turn signal (left or right), it would make a buzzing noise, so I located the relay under the steering wheel (by putting my hand on it and seeing which one was buzzing) and replaced it, I bought a replacement at Schucks, then the buzzing noise went away, and the clicking noise is back.
But.... I don't see the turn signal lights in the dashboard and the turn lights are not working, I checked, what could be the problem ? I read the owners manual, in the fuse box under the steering wheel, fuze #18 is used for turn lights, but it is not blown.
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I have an 08 F-150 5.4. When sitting still or moving, and turning the steering wheel to the right and only the right past center, there is a popping type noise somewhat like a screw driver down a washboard (for those who'll know what that is). I replaced the ball joints because I saw a slight amount of play, but the noise is still there.
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While in the locked position, the steering wheel was purposely jerked hard to disable the mechanism on a 1996 Ranger. Now the truck will not steer easily or smoothly and a popping noise is evident when turning. I'm not concerned about having the wheel lock, but would like to be able to return driveability to normal.
The same guy who caused this damage also damaged the ignition. No key is needed to turn the switch now.
I'm lost as to how the steering locking mechanism works and wondering if I need to tear apart the column or if maybe there is a locking pin accessible that needs to be removed to regain driveability.
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I'm contemplating a 4" lift on my 2012 F250/6.2L. It sits at stock height now with 315/70R17, slight rubbing on the mud flaps near full lock.
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So when my hubs are locked they make a popping noise. Not when I'm turning like a 4wd would but all the time. And then when I turn on my ESOF in the cab something makes a horrendous noise like its binding up really bad. When I unlock my hubs and turn off my ESOF it all goes away. My 4wd does not engage without the hubs locked. I have the warn standard manual hubs. I'm not sure how to check to see what's messed up.
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1. Why does my front end hop when only turning right in 4 wheel drive?
2. O nly one of my back tires spin, so does that mean that when I put it in 4 wheel drive I only have 3 tires spinning?
oh I got a 2001 xl 5.4 f250 and is this normal
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I have a 2015 F250 6.7L and I am having problems with the brakes. When you first start the truck and put it in reverse and hit the brakes there is a continuous popping noise coming from the floor board and it can be felt in the brake pedal. It feels like the brake pedal is kicking back, once you drive the truck a little ways down the road the brakes work fine but if you hit the brakes a few times in a row like coming to a red light the noise is there again and it can be felt in the pedal.
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I'm looking at a 2004 F250 XLT super cab 4x4 with a 5.4L with only 50k on the clock. It looks to be in great shape and drives good with only a few issues. Cruise doesn't work, it pulls to the left a little, and it has a slight roar coming from the left front wheel. Other than that it seems to be a nice truck. Its blue and grey two tone. Anything else I need to look at before pulling the handle on this one?
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When in 4x4 and I go to do a 90 deg turn. The steering wheel pushes back to straight and seems like I have to fight it to turn the wheels. What could be causing this? I was in 4x4 Low on a dirt road at first then stopped, put it in Neutral, and turned it back to 4x4 High and then when turning in a parking lot it started doing this.
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I have a 2002 F250 diesel, the key will turn to acc. but not on. It feels like it is hitting something in the column. I tried moving the shifting lever back and forth with my foot on the break, as I turned the key but it would not turn. I am thinking the tumblers are OK because it goes into acc. It feels like their is some lever that is not releasing the shift lever, because if I turn the key hard the shift lever jumps. What is wrong, or how the interface between the lock tumbler and the shift lever works?
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