Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2011 F450 - Front End Making Grinding Noise?
Jul 23, 2013
I've had the 450 a little over two years. Its used 95% of the time for hauling trailers, including the toy hauler. Has not given me a single problem since day one and now has around 21,000 on the odometer.
Lately I've noticed a "grinding" sound coming from the front end somewhere. It is most apparent when I'm turning at slow speeds; especially left. To describe it would be similar to worn out brake pads or maybe a wheel bearing going bad. It does it whether I'm on the brakes or not.
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My 1999 Ford F350 Dually 4x4 started making a grinding noise every once in a while about 3 weeks ago. Now it is doing it quite often, randomly as I am driving. I do notice the noise stops when I stop the truck, or when I flip the switch to 4x4 and back while driving.
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I recently noticed my truck (2006 f250 v8) making some clicking noises on really sharp turns and also horrible grinding when stopping (like the brake pads were shot).
I replaced the pads a couple years ago, so I didn't then they were bad, but I took a look tonight. What I found was a couple of seals blown on both sides!
What these are and how this might have happened? They look the same on both sides. How do I replace them?
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I thought there was a v10 specific superduty section like how the psd does, but my thread went in the "performance, engine, troubleshooting" section.
I wanted more exposure than that particular small viewed area.
I don't have a video of the noise, but my 99 f450 v10 5spd has some iffy noise coming from the front. I've read so many threads on this and they either end with "my motor had 1-2-3 bad pistons" or "my flexplate was cracked" and all that dealt with chain tensioners were never finished.
I know what piston slap sounds like (worked on many cobras and lightnings with forged pistons that had it) and have experience with bad wrist pins and broken piston skirts, and this noise doesn't sound like any of it.
Noise is a loud clicking/clunking/Detroit diesel idle noise. When you rev the engine up it doesn't lighten or get better, only worse as rpm goes up. Oil is terrible looking, I'll be getting that changed this week.
Story on truck. I've had this thing for 4 years with blown motor. I got a buddy that acquired a parts truck and he said it ran good. I dropped my truck off and he swapped the engine. I got my truck back running, but with this engine noise. He said it needs to get run some more and change oil.
I think it's timing tensioners, my buddy says it will come out of it, a mechanic friend says it's going to blow up "because they all do" and I don't really want to replace the engine again.
If it's tensioners, how big of a job is it. I have the cam clamps and crank stop and the ford tools to make sure crank and cams don't rotate while apart.
I'm just 650 miles from my truck and may need someone else to do the work. Which sucks.
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2002 Ford 7.3L 2WD 200K miles ....My starter was making a grinding noise and the bolts had backed out. Wound up replacing the starter all together. Seemed to work for a little while and then went back to making the grinding noise again. I took the starter back and got a warranty replacement and took it to the shop last week to have it installed with lock-tite. It worked perfectly for a few days and then went back to grinding again yesterday afternoon. Why it is still doing it? I bought a new Duralast Gold 5154 starter from Autozone.
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1999 f250 super Duty V10... I am having some problems with switching out of four wheel drive. S, when I flip the switch back to 2 wheel drive everything, seems ok at first, but within a mile or two I will hear this grinding coming from the front that sounds like the gears aren't completely disengaging. The inky thing that prevents this grinding from happening is switching back into fire wheel drive and keeping it there. What might be causing it to not stay disengaged ?
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Just bought a 2011 F450 king Ranch. really like the truck but the heated seats a REALLY slow to warm up and then just warm. I see that these work different than all the other heated seats I have used and use the blower motor to blow warm or cool air through the seats instead of an element under the seat covers. Is there anything I can do to get more heat? The blower filters look ok and will replace the when I can find a set. Tries without the filter and didn't see much of an improvement. Where is the heat element and is it east to get to?
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Where I can locate rear fender flares that will match 2011 and up f450 flares? Which flares would cover the f450 front fender flares holes?
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For starters I have a 1999 F-250 5.4l changed all 4 ball joints about 15,000 miles ago. I have been hearing a grinding noise coming from the front end for the last month only when I turn left and at slow speeds. I was servicing the TC so I threw it in 4 wheel to check it and it wouldn't engage until I started moving. When it did engage it was a bad grinding/ clunking sound coming from maybe the differential.
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Im working on a 03 f-450 that has a front end vibration, it starts when you hit 25 mph and its a humming / vibration that seems more to the passenger side than the drivers side. You can also hear it decrease when you come down in speed and it dissappears below 25 mph. Its a 2003 F-450 CC 4x4 DRW with the v-10.
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Noise question. I have a 2011 super duty f250 xlt, and my question is I have a grinding noise that does not sound metallic and only shows up when its below freezing, only in drive and for about 50 yards.
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TRUCK: 2003 F250 S/C Long bed 4x4 7.3 Diesel
PROBLEM: grinding noise in left front when slowing and stopping.
Starts as a howling noise, turns into a grinding as you brake and come to a stop. I feel it in the pedal and as it slows it feels like metal to metal brakes
WHAT HAVE WE DONE: Replaced both front hub assemblies (MOOG)... Replaced dust shields, rotors, calipers, pads as well as all new brake hardware.
At any speed when I brake hard it grinds and howls, I have taken out the 4x4 locking hub assembly and it does not change the situation. I am stumped!
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I replaced both front bearings, calipers, brake pads, now I have a grinding noise on the left side front stops sometimes when you step on the brakes? 1999 F350 ...
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How do I get the front axles out of of the knuckle? It seems like the seals are holding them in? Is there any trick to to getting them out,I am trying to do my ball joints
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Tried converting the 10 lug to 8x6.5 and didn't work. so now i found a 2000 F450SD 8x225mm monotube front axle but just got my hands on a '99 F350 4.10 DRW axle 8x170mm....can I bolt the 8x170 hubs (spacers as its a dually front axle) up front? not sure if the bolt pattern on the rotor will work...
I was thinking adapters up front as i can widen the front track abit if i had to, but dont want to go 170mm to 225 adapters out back, as i think its too much weight for those... I will have a front 90 F-superduty 10 lug set up....
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My front driver side wheel is making a clunk noise when I hit a bump. I replaced the wheel bearing hub assembly and discovered both axle seals were bad.
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I am in the process of replacing the front hub seals so my ESOF works again. I tested both front hubs with a mityvac and neither one of them holds any vacuum at all. All the lines are good, and the pump and solenoid seem to be working fine.
I have the driver's side apart and I have a couple of questions.
What's a good source for the vacuum seal? I've checked rockauto, riff raff, and diesel o-rings. Diesel o-rings has it, but the description says it's only for 2003+ Excursions so I didn't order it.
There is no yellow o-ring anywhere on the hub. I assume that someone forgot to put this o-ring back in and this is why I don't have ESOF? I guess what I really want to know is that there isn't some 2000-specific thing where there's no o-ring, right?
After I got the hub off, I spun it around on my workbench and it doesn't sound good at all. It makes a slight metallic grinding noise about 1/2 way around. I assume this isn't normal? AFAIK these are all original parts - but the missing o-ring means to me that someone already had it apart.
There was a lot of water intrusion and rusty colored grease but nothing was dry, the needle bearings were intact and the shaft isn't scored at all where the bearing rides. I'm hoping new seals and good cleaning and it should be good as new. And then it's off to the next side.
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I got a 2001 f350 got a noise in my left front wheel i know its not the wheel bearings, it only makes the noice when the locking hub is unlocked i did jack the the truck up and spun the wheel got a faint grinding noises form what seems like the locking hub so my question is bad locking hub or needle bearing holding the axle shaft??
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So to start at the beginning.... Traveled across Canada East to West towing 11000lb travel trailer, no problem. Have used 4x4 in a few campsites to pull out of a pitch without spinning the wheels and causing damage to the site when it has been really wet. All good.
Got to Banff in December and the town was an Ice rink, engaged 4x4 and all good. Crossed the Rockies and the 4x4 starts making grinding noises. Up and down some mountains and squeaking, grinding noise then clunking.
I have manual hubs, disengage and the noise all goes away. Engage 1 hub and no noise. Engage both hubs, noise back.
I bought some needle bearings and went to swap them. Got hubs apart and they look good. No scoring on the drive shafts. They are not dry, but as I have them open, repack them with grease anyway.
Do more research... Remove ABS sensor and repack main bearings with grease. (broke one sensor pulling it out, too cold plastic brittle oops). Still clunking noises.
The universal joints look good, doesn't appear to be any play in them. However, the axle seal (knuckle seal) (F81Z-3254-CB) does move around a lot in it's metal casing. It is tight on the shaft, but with the hub off, I can move it in and out, and move it side to side. If I had ESOF hubs I guess they would not be locking as I'm sure there would be no vacuum in there!
Question is then, would this seal be allowing the universal joint to wobble under load in 4x4 mode? Would this wobble be the cause of the rumble? As it is labelled as a seal and not a bearing, I wouldn't of thought this would have been a loaded point, and the weight would have been taken by the associated bearings and it could be run without this seal? But if it is not this, then I'm still looking for a clue as to what is making the rumble....
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2014 F450. Front end and steering wheel shake violently when braking while towing a 20,000 pound trailer down a long and steep highway grade. It does not happen when towing my 12,000 pound trailer down the same highway. Could I be setting off the ABS braking system?
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I have 2009 F-450 6.4L Diesel with 41K miles and just started to have a noise that can be heard up in the CAB of the truck while driving or idling. It sounds like a dry ball bearing that would go bad in home computer AC power supply or CPU cooling fan. The sound starts when the engine is at full operating temperature and most noticeable and the loudest if you are standing in front of the engine at idle outside.
Checked all fluids and they are normal. Turning the steering wheel doesn't affect the sound either or turning off the AC. Check engine light has not come on. The only thing I have noticed is that clutch fan stays on a very long time after starting cold and takes about a mile or two before it disengages. The truck is only used to tow a 36' 5th wheel and sits the majority of the time.
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