Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2011 F350 - Windshield Washer Tank Leak
Jul 11, 2016
Filled up the windshield washer tank this morning and could not get the sprayer to work. Looked under the truck and it looks like all I put in is on the drive. Any one else had issues with 2011 F350 washer tanks?
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2011 F250 with hood mounted windshield washer nozzle. How do I remove the nozzle? In a campground with basic tools.
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I have a 2005 F-250 6.0 Powerstroke.
My washer fluid pump is not working, it was a few weeks ago but now it is broken. The Owner's Manual only has the listing fuse 33 for "cluster, 4x4, wipers". It looks like some of the older models have an actual fuse for the "washer fluid pump". I checked fuse 33 under the dash and it is ok. What fuse controls the washer fluid pump?
The pump does not make noise when activated, so I'm starting at the fuse but I don't know what the hell is going on.
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I have an 04 F250 and the driver side windshield washer doesn't spray on the windshield. It sprays a stream up high on the windshield. Is it possible to replace the spigot where the spray comes out? Is there another solution?
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My new to me, 2005 F-250 windshield washer nozzles don't work. I have replaced the windshield washer pump, cleaned out the washer fluid container and rubber filter screen, blew air through the lines and the passenger side nozzle barely sprays and the driver side nozzle does nothing at all. I guess I have clogged nozzles. What is the part number or place you bought them? Looked online and everything I can find is so generic.
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My windshield washer has recently just sprayed up about a foot.
Will adding some vinegar to the fluid and see if it will unclog?
Or does this just mean that my pump is giving up?
'99 F250 SD V10
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Last fall had one day for about three miles where wipers and washer wouldn't shut off. Now they won't stop at all. Thought the multi switch might be bad, removed whole switch and unhooked. Washer pump and wipers were still on and wouldn't shut off. Had to pull the fuse.
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I didn't get the windshield replaced rusted the whole way across the top of the window. Now to fix it right need a new roof panel. This truck barely see snow if it does it gets washed underneath. gets waxed 5 times a year washed every 2 weeks if not sooner now a spot of rust anywhere else on the body. well the bottom of the tail gate but that was covered by a bedrug. But the windshield has me upset to say the least. Really would like to know if there is a problem there like ford not prepping the metal right since it was a new body style for that year.
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My windshield wipers aren't working. I can hear the relay click and I've checked the fuse. I found this ground wire, what it goes to?
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I have a 99 F350 with a 29 gallon tank. I filled it up yesterday and the total gallons was a little over 24. The low fuel light was on and the gauge only goes up to almost 3/4. I recently bought this truck. I've searched for a thread on here possibly addressing this but have been unable to find one. I've been going through possible issues in my head.... What the problem is?
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I have a 2014 350 crew diesel short box. I am told, I have a 28 gallon tank but can't get over 22 gallons in it even though my gauge show e and my read out says I have 10 miles left until empty? Dealer says the left over 6 gallons is a reserve...
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On my 02 f350 xlt my turn signals work but not my wiper speed switch, when i put the small fuze in, the wiper go full speed and wont stop unless i pull the fuze out... What could be wrong?
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Windshield wipers, and washer were suddenly not working the other day, so I discovered a blown fuse. Put a new one in, and it immediately blew again. So there is definitely something grounding out, and I am suspecting the wiper motor itself because so far I have not been able to find any wires shorting out, but before I go to the trouble of pulling the motor out and testing it, or replacing it.
Truck is a 2002 F350CC 7.3 TD. Wipers were working fine the other day before I pressure washed it, which is why I really suspect the wiper motor itself.
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So yesterday we were towing our camper home from a weekend trip. We were pulling on the interstate at about 70mph, up a slight grade into a strong headwind. The outside temp was about 85 degrees, so not too hot out. After about 5 miles I got antifreeze sprayed on my windshield, coming from under the left front corner of the hood. The water temp held at about 220 degrees where it usually runs when towing hard but the oil temperature steadily worked up to about 240 degrees. I limped to the nearest place to stop and pulled over to let it cool down.
After it cooled down I added water to bring it back up to the minimum mark. We were 200 miles from home on a Sunday so I stopped in the local Wal Mart and picked up a can of stop leak and poured that in then we hit the road again. About 10 miles down the road the water again sprayed onto the windshield and the oil temp came up, this time hitting about 260. The water temp stayed between 218 and 220, once working up to 225, so I slowed down and the temps came down. I was able to creep along and made it 50 miles to a relatives house where I let it cool again and added more water.
When we hit the road again we made it about 10 miles and the oil temp had worked back up to 240, water temp stayed around 218 so I stopped at my parents house and dropped the camper. We drove the 100 miles home from there without the camper. The water temp stayed around 195 and the oil temp held at 212. If I got over 60mph the oil temp came up, but keeping it under 60 the temp held. So, what is wrong with my truck? Is the oil temp up because I was a gallon and a half low on water? The most I had to put in was a gallon and a half. Did I plug the oil cooler up with the stop leak?
The oil temp when towing has always ran 12 to 18 degrees higher than the water temp. I forgot to add, 2005 F350 with the 6.0 diesel. 240,000 miles on the truck. I have owned it just under a year and don't know a lot about it. I don't know if it has had any work done to it prior to my owning it, the antifreeze looks orange or yellow colored.
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New to me 2003 F250 Super Cab 6.8 V10. Great condition inside and out. 68,000 miles. Began smelling fuel (gas) a few days after driving it 250 miles from purchase location. Traced leak down to the top of the gas tank. Staining was visible around the rear vent. Applied about 5 psi to the tank and sprayed soap around until I saw bubbles coming from a hairline crack at the rear vent connection. Its where the fitting for the hose comes out of the tank.
My first choice would be to hot weld the crack. I'm not very comfortable with the idea of a heat source near a gas tank. I'm not sure, but the heat from the plastic welder might be hot enough to ignite fumes? Second option is to try some industrial 2 part epoxy (PIG) and seal it with that. Is there pressure inside the tank, and if so how much? Can try this fix with epoxy or JB Weld?
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I noticed an oil leak out of the front housing of my 2016 350. I have 3 Ford dealers nearby and all 3 can't get me in until 8 August. It looks to be just a few drops daily. Is it safe to drive pulling a 5th wheel until they get me in? The leak is at the bottom of the housing.
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I got water leak after wash my f-350. My lock stopped work and when I opened fuse box I found lil water on fuse box cover. I'm wondering about any other solution before I try replace the seals on windshield
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When I put my 06 f350 in 4x4 my ac defaults to defrost. I assume this means a vacuum leak. My question is, is the white tube supposed to be open for air intake or plugged off with something?
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Came out to start my truck today a hit the key and got nothing. After I settled down from being upset about my truck already giving me trouble (bought it in Nov and had 25k miles on it, 35k now) and that I should have stayed with a Chevrolet, I was able to start it by crawling under and jumping the started with a screwdriver. The truck started up no problem and got me home where I did some troubleshooting. Looks like I dont get solenoid power at the starter (just main power), the relays and fuses checked out, anhe d it looks like the key is still programmed.
I had been getting what seamed like a delayed start every now and again that was going on for a while, but thought it was just me. The next items I thought that may be the culprit are the neutral safety switch or the ignition switch. The gear selector seams to work fine and it wont start in either P or N, the backup camera turns on and nothing seams to be incorrectly working on that account. Also, the truck is a 2011 F350 Crew Cab 4wd Lariat with the 6.2 gas motor.
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I had a new engine put into my 2006 F350 SD 5.4 last year and ever since then I can't keep the freon charged in my ac. The mechanic said all he did was lay the compressor out of the way and didn't disconnect anything ac related. I have 2 different shops keep my truck for a couple days and neither could find a leak. Yet a month later, freon is low. I think I have more dye in my system than freon.
I put 2 of those ac leak sealers, the ones you have to ask for behind the counter and can keep my ac working for maybe 45 days, then throw 3 cans in it. No dye is showing up nor will the sniffer find anything. I hate to go to the dealer because I figure they will want to replace everything. Any tips other than try another shop and maybe they can find the leak.
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03 f350 5.4. Very minor coolant leak at the moment. Valley behind water pump looks a little damp and leak has shown a little on the passenger side block above the starter. Shows on the tranny bell housing and hits the y pipe every once and a while. I am thinking its the hose that runs under the intake manifold but wanted to check in here for some wisdom. Can it be bypassed or rerun without pulling everything.
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