Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2011 F350 - TPMS Error On Information Cluster
Nov 27, 2015
I have a new to me 2011 f350 diesel lariat. It came with 18" wheels with the TPMS that I recently sold and purchased a set of 20" 2015 wheels which also have the tpms in them. I am getting the error on my information cluster. I've tried to reset the tpms using the owners manual to no avail. I can get it to go into the learn mode but when I start letting the air out of the first tire the air just keeps coming out and it won't register.
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I have a 2012 F350 XLT that came out of Canada. So of course the speedometer is in KM. (Large numbers are km and smaller numbers are mph). I am trying to find out if I can simply change out my cluster with a mph cluster???
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I'm having a little problem with my F350. I've had it for about a month now and the cluster had no problems or whatsoever. Then, I drove it today and I noticed that the instrument cluster is not working at all. The lights work, but the gauges wouldn't move. When I turn the key before starting it the chime is beeping faster than it usually did before and it wouldn't shut off unless I close the door. It also only indicates the airbag and battery light. I checked all the fuses and they were good especially #15 or #16 can't remember it right now.
I don't know if its related, but this past saturday I was messing with the overhead instrument cluster for the gas mileage and all that. I soldered some of the relays back on and that was it. I started the truck after I did all that, but everything was still working. It's been bugging me all day today.
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I have a 2000 F350. I'm tired of my gauge cluster. No matter what, within a year one of the LEDs has a diode that starts to flicker and flash and makes my gauge cluster dance. I'd like to solder in a series of individual LEDs and do away with the expensive bulbs that always fail. The bulbs I soldered into my HVAC have never given me any issue, so I figured this would be a good fix for that and the awful hotspots.
I have torn down the gauge cluster partially before. when you pull the gauge faces off as a unit (including the various electrical components tied to the back of the gauges), there is a circuit board at the top of the cluster. It has two cables that plug into the main face part that pulls away from the white plastic chassis. Need to successfully unplug the cables in order to separate the gauge assembly from the chassis? I don't like the idea of soldering so close to it while having the chassis part propped up.
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I have a 2001 F350 and instrument cluster lights will not work. Fuses are good and the gauges still work just not the lights.
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All of a sudden my cluster light don't work. Like my all my warning lights work fine. Just when I switch my headlights on my cluster doesn't want to light up green anymore or the green lights for my climate controls. It's a 2002 F350 with a 5.4 in it. Where to start looking?
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I have a 2000 f350 XLT SD v10 gas. The radio works, the heater works and the power windows work too. It's just the cluster. Lights work in the cluster it's the gauges are dead truck starts fine.
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I have a 2005 F 350 with a 6.0 Diesel! My heat quit on my wife and I the other night! I replaced some fuses and started the truck to make sure the heat was working and it was! So I thought while I am here I should replace some bulbs in the cluster that were out!
I took the cluster out, looked at the bulbs and they looked oK so I put them back in and put the dash back together! When I went to start the truck once I turned the switch on my gauges and lights started flickering on and off fast and all it will do is just click when I try to start it! I just had it running 15 minutes before this!
I went through all the fuses and if I take one of the relays out and turn the switch on all the lights and gauges seem to work right but when I try to start it, nothing! I replaced the relay and it starts flickering again! I had the relay checked at Napa and they said it was good! The relay was for the Powertrain module!
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I just bought this 2006 f350 lariat. The instrument cluster, radio, pwr windows (and prob other things) will go dead intermittently. No rime or reason, some days no prob, others, several time a day. Always come back by itself, cycling the power has no effect. I if it is shut down during a no power episode it will not run right till the power comes back to the dash, radio, windows. Looking on line seems to be a common problem with the "retained power accessory relay" circuit in the instrument cluster. I found nothing on a DIY fix...
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2005 F350 crew cab with 6.0 currently cranks but no start with a P2291 error code. Using scanguage 2 it shows icp 0, IPR 67.7, FICM 47.5 while cranking. Disconnected ICP and still no start. removed icp and hooked up air and I do not hear/see any signs of air leaking. When I disconnect the air it then whooshes out. About 2 months ago got a #1 cylinder contribution error code and changed out that injector and it has ran fine up until this issue.
Can this be a IPR? I am leading towards the HPOP, but as it costs a pretty penny would really love to make sure I tried every other avenue.
I have 197K on it, and 2 years ago did a EGR cooler delete. In May this year replaced the oil cooler, and then in August changed out the #1 fuel injector.
Oil cooler screen was broken. Cleaned the entire reservoir out. Could this just be a clogged IPR? or seeing the change while cranking an indication that it is working?
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Came out to start my truck today a hit the key and got nothing. After I settled down from being upset about my truck already giving me trouble (bought it in Nov and had 25k miles on it, 35k now) and that I should have stayed with a Chevrolet, I was able to start it by crawling under and jumping the started with a screwdriver. The truck started up no problem and got me home where I did some troubleshooting. Looks like I dont get solenoid power at the starter (just main power), the relays and fuses checked out, anhe d it looks like the key is still programmed.
I had been getting what seamed like a delayed start every now and again that was going on for a while, but thought it was just me. The next items I thought that may be the culprit are the neutral safety switch or the ignition switch. The gear selector seams to work fine and it wont start in either P or N, the backup camera turns on and nothing seams to be incorrectly working on that account. Also, the truck is a 2011 F350 Crew Cab 4wd Lariat with the 6.2 gas motor.
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I have an '06 F350 dually with a 6.0 diesel. I bought this used about 5 years ago and for the most part have loved it. i would always smile on the inside when i heard people bash the 6.0...i thought i got lucky....until today.
140k miles. recent oil change. all is swell...until this morning. Stick in key and turn it. glow plug indicator comes on...all lights come on for a few second....wrench, abs, dtc etc....wrench shuts off...glow plug light comes on...4 or 5 seconds later wrench light comes back on....turn key and NO CRANK.
All fuses are fine...starter cranks if i jump the solenoid...but it won't start. Miles to empty and everything else is just dashes hit the OBD and it says "engine sensor data error"/ "trans temp error" ...
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I've got an intermittent Trailer Wiring Error message that started appearing with a trailer connected on my '11 F250.
Brakes and lights work OK on the trailer, I thought I had read on the board here that there was a TSB for this, but I cannot find it.
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I bought a 2011 F350 that was in a collision. I have done collision repair before but I have not had to deal with air bags... Both driver wheel and passenger bags deployed. I see some for sale on EBAY for around 300 used....do I just by them and install them? Is there a reset or something else I have to do? I see some sell them with the controller as well...do I need that?
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I have an 11 F350 6.7. It has just under 200K miles on it. Yesterday I changed the oil. Very uneventful. Today however, I was driving home, about 100 miles, and my truck's temp spiked. Not like a little spike, but jumped to the 3/4 mark(if there was one) then slowly kept rising to to the overheat mark. I pulled off onto the hard shoulder waited an hour or so to let it cool down, then finished the drive home. All the way home my temp gauge seemed like it was on some sort of drug. It would jump a needle width when I would have to accelerate, then slowly cool to normal after I got up to cruising speed.
When I got home I checked the oil level and it was spot on in the "normal" range. I haven't used a different type/brand/weight of oil in the last 100k miles. Did something just give out on my truck? I had the coolant flushed and replaced at the dealer within the last 10k miles. Up until this point this truck has been exceedingly reliable. I pull a 13k 5th wheel once a month and drive about 40k-ish miles a year.
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I have a 2011 F350 with the towing package. I got it used as it and it was a northern truck. My towing mirrors won't extend in or out. They fold and unfold just fine. When I press the button to telescope them I can hear the motor running so I know the fuse is good. I took the glass off the mirrors and scraped some salt out of the joints. I sprayed some lube on the joints as well but still no luck. I also tried forcing them but not too much to avoid breaking them.
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I have a 2011 F350 with camper package (didn't want it). When I drive on a bumpy road (without 5th wheel), the truck suspension does not absorb the shock. The ruts just throws the truck side to side. Really hard, so I can't go on a dirt, rough road. On one bump it poped off my rear tire cap.
My problem may be with the camper package trying to keep the truck from going back and forth.
There is a 7/16 inch steal rod going from the truck bed, around the differential, and back up to the other side of the truck. Is that the rear stablizer rod?? Can I disconnect it? What would be
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2011 F350 with fluid leaking in through the firewall. Does the Hydro booster have to be replaced or is there a gaskets or seal on the rod that goes to the brake pedal?
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I feel a vibration and hear a rattle/grinding noise intermittently in the front driver or passenger floorboard only when the truck is cornering AND starting uphill or downhill. The vibration lasts a second or two and seems to be directly related to throttle/rpm acceleration while cornering and not something just loose and clunking around.
Dealer could not reproduce but it just happened again yesterday a couple of times in city traffic after dealer inspected and greased front end zirks.
What should I be looking for and how would you go about getting this resolved? It started happening in the last couple of months and never made a sound prior. Truck is in year 4 of 6 year warranty so I want to tackle now, but I need better understanding of problem.
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what is the best computer chip for a 2011 F-350 to get better gas mileage?
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I have a 2011 F-350 6.2L that has extremely hard shifts from 3 to 4 going up and 2 to 1 going down. Sometimes on downshifts it feels like something has ran into the back of the truck. I had the computer updated when the truck had approximately 40,000 miles on it and he assisted a little bit. The truck now has 140,000 miles and it is back to shifting horribly. I put it in the shop at the dealer on 30 December 2013. The dealer says that the problem is that the shift solenoids need to be replaced but that they are not available. The truck is still sitting at the dealer and I am being told that the parts should be available mid February.
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