Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2011 F350 Shaking All The Time Either Loaded With A Trailer Or Empty
Jul 4, 2014
My 2011 F350 is shaking like a wet dog, all the time, loaded with a trailer and empty. It's the whole truck, not just the front end or rear end. It'll shake a Dr Pepper flat in 10 mins. No one can figure out why. Maybe y'all can think of something.
Here's what we've done
New tires, balanced
Alignment
Replaced ball joints and sway bar
Replaced carrier bearing
Replaced passenger front hub that got mysteriously locked and henceforth destroyed.
Replaced all 4 shocks
Where to look next?? Guess I should mention is 4x4 dually with 177,803 miles.
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I have this bucking a jerking when pulling my Sundowner LQ horse trailer, primarily in the 40-50 mph range. I can let off throttle and it stops but resumes unless I feather the throttle.... 2008 f 350, 4WD, 6.4, 48k miles....
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A friend has a 2003 6.0,around 200000kms well maintained just had new injectors,filters etc. This truck is his bread and butter so anything that needs to be addressed gets it, pretty much touble free until now. Just out of the blue last week at driving @60kms/hr pulling an empty trailer it died no surge or sputter. Full fuel,oil etc,they tried to get it running and it would not fire up. His local auto shop pretty much gave up on it and it now sits at our Ford dealership. Thoughts are leaning to fuel delivery to electrical can we ball park some things that he can put forward to the dealer to get him in and out sooner.
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Im getting this almost every time I start it up. It happened once about a month ago, then more often. Now almost every time.
Truck has 1700 mi
I hate to have to bring it to Ford so soon
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Have a 2001 f350 that runs great until you hook a trailer to it. Once a trailer is hooked to it and you are on a slight incline (and I mean slight) it will not go into D.. It's like it gets stuck in N.. Have to jam it into 1 to get it to go.. Once level again it will go back to D... Truck has 177k miles on it.
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I have an 05 f350. I cannot get trailer running lights to work. All other lights work. Trailer brakes work, battery charge for dump trailer. I've checked fuses under dash and under hood. Everything checks out. I'm Stumped.
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2004 ford f 350 super duty, 6.0 Liters international diesel, 4door, 4x4, long bed, dual rear wheels. Over 200,000 mileage. I have no power to the trucks brake lights and no power to the tow plugs trailer brake lights, which is the center left and the center right tow plug blade style contacts, while using a 12 volt test light! All fuses are showing good and I replaced the brake switch at the brake pedal, and I also replaced the towing plug with the short wire and connector at rear of truck which is under the rear bumper and the frame mounted tow hitch bar
- Are there any relays that control the truck brake lights and the trailer brake lights ?
- If yes where are the brake relays exactly?
- Have I missed or not done something else to correct the problem?
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My 2004 F350 6.0L v8 has a weird shake when I get between 45 and 55 mph. Doesn't feel like its the tires, feel like the engine. I think I might have the #5 glo plug out. Is that it or could something else be wrong? If it is this how bad is it to drive on.
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I've got an intermittent Trailer Wiring Error message that started appearing with a trailer connected on my '11 F250.
Brakes and lights work OK on the trailer, I thought I had read on the board here that there was a TSB for this, but I cannot find it.
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I have a '03 F350 that I can't seem to solve the brakes vibrating when applied. Replaced front rotors a couple weeks ago. I still have a vibration when I apply the brakes. What am I missing? I didn't replace the back rotors, but maybe I should have. On the passenger front, the inside pad was almost gone and the outside pad was in good shape. I greased the pins before I replaced the pads the last time, but the inside still wore much faster. I also blew out the rear brake line last week and spent Saturday bending a new line and replacing that so the brakes were bled when I had to replace that. I don't feel the pulsing in the pedal, but the truck shakes pretty good when I hit the brakes. What else should I be checking if the rotors are new and the pads are new and the pins have been lubed and the brakes have been bled?
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Having a somewhat scary problem.....my truck is already a rough ride due to the fabtech lift and the 37's and you get a lot of feedback through the steering wheel. Its a rough ride down the highway but where it gets scary is at lower than highway speeds like 35-45 range. I can hit a bump and it will send the trucl into this insane cavitation that will literally shale the fillings out of your teeth. I cannot tell if it is in the drive wheels or the front wheels. The best way I can describe it is that its like trying to push a buggy in wal mart with a bad caster wheel on it. It feels like you are about to have a wheel fall off or that its broken off a tie rod or something. Then you simply slow down to a stop and you can drive right on like nothing was wrong. The vibration or shaking does not slow down with the speed. I cannot find anything obvious broken or damaged but this thing is getting dangerous to drive.
05 F350 DRW Fabtech 6 inch lift and 37's. 114k miles.
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I just brought home an 04 F350. It is a V10, 6 speed, with 30,600 verified miles on it. It runs and drives fantastic, and that V10 is impressive! I am very impressed. I have noticed that the compressor cycles, even with the dial in the off position. Is this normal for the super duty, or is something amiss? If something is wrong, what direction do I look in?
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Well I just bought a 2011F250 6.7 on Friday. The truck has 42000 miles when I picked it up and now has almost 42800 4 days later. I love the truck so far. But anyways its an early build so is there anything I need to look out for? I noticed today I pulled into a parking spot and went to back up and as soon as I put it in reverse the truck shook pretty bad. It did it a few times as I sat there and went from drive to reverse. Is this something that is normal?
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Every time I connect the battery I get a clicking under the dash its non stop until I remove the battery cables. just when I remove the left passenger side battery. When I put in the key while its clicking and try to start its almost like I have no power the needle just drops down to nothing. The batteries have a full charge I pulled them off and charged over night also brought them in and had them tested. Seems like a serious short in the electrical but that clicking under the dash coming from fuse box scares me. I did pull all the relays and it still clicks.... doesn't sound good! 1999 F350...
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I need fixing my 2003 f350 6.0 diesel, I have been working on this truck for a while and still am having problems, here was the original symptoms:
-Hard start or no start on a sunny day
-Rough idle for 10-15 minutes
-Rough shaking in the low RPMs (35 mph)[/COLOR]
-Slow response from the gas pedal
-boost would only get to 14
My dad and I then did many things to the truck in the shop, those things are:
-Air test and replacement of coupling going into oil branches (next to HPOP)
-Replaced EGR valve (no good)
-Replaced ICP sensor (leaking oil)
-Replaced ICP sensor and IPR valve piggtails (due to frayed wires)
-Cleaned Turbo
-Cut MAP sensor hose and reattached it (spliced on the end)
-New battery
-Performed a bubble test and found two bad injectors on passenger side (injectors #5 and #7)
-Cleaned and lubed tops of injectors
-Replaced O rings and copper crush washers on all injectors
-Replaced nipple cup O rings (tight)
-Blew out injector cups
-Bubble tested after injectors put back in (no more bubbles)
-New FICM, EGR cooler and oil cooler were already installed
-Ohm'd main engine wiring harness (good to go)
-Taped up frayed wires on fan clutch connection
-Increased wire gauge on the positive jumper between both batteries
-Sanded each ground on the batteries and engine, cleaned battery clamps, lithium greased connection points.
-Checked fuel for air (no air)
-Checked fuel psi (85 psi, plenty)
-Oil changed
After doing all of this (diagnosing as we fixed each thing) we now fixed many things including the hard/no start problem. Now, for the first three to five minutes:
-It starts right up
-Runs perfectly, no shake and instant response from the gas pedal and turbo
-Boost goes to 28
-ICP is 800-950 on idle
-IPR is 25-26.9% closed
After five minutes however:
-Starts to shake
-IPR % starts to raise
-Received no response from gas pedal (absolutely no power)
This truck has been torn apart like 8 times and I have to do it on my spare time.
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Every time I apply brakes I hear a weird humming noise, as well as no stopping power. Checked fluids and pads and everything is where it should be. I heard abs can cause this but not sure on that. I know my master cylinder has a very small leak but it hasn't lost any fluids of that sort. I'm lost. I don't know where else to look.
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Came out to start my truck today a hit the key and got nothing. After I settled down from being upset about my truck already giving me trouble (bought it in Nov and had 25k miles on it, 35k now) and that I should have stayed with a Chevrolet, I was able to start it by crawling under and jumping the started with a screwdriver. The truck started up no problem and got me home where I did some troubleshooting. Looks like I dont get solenoid power at the starter (just main power), the relays and fuses checked out, anhe d it looks like the key is still programmed.
I had been getting what seamed like a delayed start every now and again that was going on for a while, but thought it was just me. The next items I thought that may be the culprit are the neutral safety switch or the ignition switch. The gear selector seams to work fine and it wont start in either P or N, the backup camera turns on and nothing seams to be incorrectly working on that account. Also, the truck is a 2011 F350 Crew Cab 4wd Lariat with the 6.2 gas motor.
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I've got a 08 f250 ext cab long box with the 5.4 gas. I know I know 3/4 ton gas. Trucks got NO power at all loaded and unloaded and really bad fuel mileage. Driving like a grandpa in town I'm getting 7mpg on the hwy unloaded I get 9 or 10mpg loaded on the hwy the trucks working way harder than it should and getting 6mpg.... I'm wanting to swap the 5 4 for a 6.0. Reason I saw 6.0 is my buddy's done egr delete. Bulletproof oil cooler head studs and a edge with attitude chip and has great power and reasonable fuel mileage. How hard is it going to be swapping the motors.
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I have a 2002 f350 7.3 PS that every time I touch the brake pedal it blows the #6 fuse(trailer tow brake/turn signal). I need to use my trailer.
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I bought a 2011 F350 that was in a collision. I have done collision repair before but I have not had to deal with air bags... Both driver wheel and passenger bags deployed. I see some for sale on EBAY for around 300 used....do I just by them and install them? Is there a reset or something else I have to do? I see some sell them with the controller as well...do I need that?
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I have an 11 F350 6.7. It has just under 200K miles on it. Yesterday I changed the oil. Very uneventful. Today however, I was driving home, about 100 miles, and my truck's temp spiked. Not like a little spike, but jumped to the 3/4 mark(if there was one) then slowly kept rising to to the overheat mark. I pulled off onto the hard shoulder waited an hour or so to let it cool down, then finished the drive home. All the way home my temp gauge seemed like it was on some sort of drug. It would jump a needle width when I would have to accelerate, then slowly cool to normal after I got up to cruising speed.
When I got home I checked the oil level and it was spot on in the "normal" range. I haven't used a different type/brand/weight of oil in the last 100k miles. Did something just give out on my truck? I had the coolant flushed and replaced at the dealer within the last 10k miles. Up until this point this truck has been exceedingly reliable. I pull a 13k 5th wheel once a month and drive about 40k-ish miles a year.
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