Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2011 F350 - Rear Stabilizer Bar Removal?
Sep 7, 2013
I have a 2011 F350 with camper package (didn't want it). When I drive on a bumpy road (without 5th wheel), the truck suspension does not absorb the shock. The ruts just throws the truck side to side. Really hard, so I can't go on a dirt, rough road. On one bump it poped off my rear tire cap.
My problem may be with the camper package trying to keep the truck from going back and forth.
There is a 7/16 inch steal rod going from the truck bed, around the differential, and back up to the other side of the truck. Is that the rear stablizer rod?? Can I disconnect it? What would be
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I have a 2016 F350 super cab and I can't figure out how to remove the rear head rest. Short of taking out my sawsall and cutting them off. How to get them off...
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How do you remove the air bag on a 2014 F350 super duty. I have search every where. Nothing new on Google.
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I need to remove the panel to the left of the dash that has the headlight switch and AC outlet in it.
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I'm trying to remove the center console from my 2016 f350 lariat cc. I have both drivers and passengers seats out and all the obvious bolts removed. I'm still not able to remove the console. I know I'm likely missing just a few bolts as its really loose.
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I'm working on an '05 F350 King Ranch dually, and I'm pretty sure the pb cable is stretched. I recently replaced the shoes in the pb assembly and adjusted the tension while I was in there, but it still barely holds. My next culprit sounds like a stretched cable, and I have a complete set for a new one, but I'm having a hell of a time getting the old one out. The link that holds the front and intermediate cables together won't pry open with any tool I have, and I've broken two drill bits trying to drill out the nub holding the front cable in.
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How to take the panels off? I need to remove the passenger srs module for the light bulb repair. It's a 2003 F350 XLT SWR 4X4.
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I want to get the rear fender flares on my dually painted, they had a few scuffs when I bought it & I will soon have some spare time to get it sorted. We can't get the truck in the paint booth so taking them off seems like the ideal solution. I have had a quick look & I think it's just a case of removing the plastic liner (screws & clips) then it looks like there are some nuts up inside the steel fender, disconnect the wiring & they should come off!
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Is there a steering stabilizer for a 92 Ford F-250 custom 2wd? and what's the difference between a f250 custom and a f250 heavy duty?
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I want to know if there are any issues when removing the rear block, also do I have to put a new block in or can I just leave it out ....
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I went to get my front window tinted and the place didn't have the "tool" to remove the rear view mirror and they did not want to get very aggressive with the mallet in fear of breaking the windshield. Has anyone bene able to get any of the "home methods" to work? I contacted a couple of local auto window repair places and they said they wouldn't do it because the windshield "ALWAYS" breaks.
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I would like information how to remove the rear seat back on a 2012 F250. I want to remove the head rests and from what I can find out they are bolted solid to the rear panel. I asked the same question earlier and got a reply for 2011, would that be the same? Is there any place I could get a schematic, a picture is worth a thousand words.
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Will replacement of the original OEM steering stabilizer with a higher quality stabilizer tighten up my steering wheel play, making is more responsive?
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Checking the front end with the front wheels off the ground I noticed that my Suspension Stabilzer Bar has about an 1/8" up and down play in it. No side to side play at all. I checked the nut on the ball joint and it is tight but wondering if this is why I am feeling a slight tight/loose feeling when going down the freeway at 65.
It has this "tight" or a slight grab feeling when the steering wheel is centered and I move it left or right slightly (like normal steering wheel movement to stay in your lane) I don't feel this at slower speeds 30-40 etc just when I am straight on the freeway at about 65-70 mph.
Ball joints and everything else looked fine, no play noticed. Never had the "death wobble" but having this up/down play in their stabilizer bar.
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I've got a 2014 f250 xl super cab and can't for the life of me figure out how to remove the back seat back.
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I'm on my second set of links. The replacement were Dorman 3 years ago. They are rattling again. Do I just replace them again? I forgot to add, the bushings were replaced this year.
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My 2002 250 just got ball joints, bushings, sway arms, 4 wheel alignment and new tires to top it all off. Did All this to correct the shakes, shimmies, popping and grinding in the front end. Now they say I need a steering stabilizer up front. Does any other than ford make a bolt on one and haw much and where can I get one.
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Came out to start my truck today a hit the key and got nothing. After I settled down from being upset about my truck already giving me trouble (bought it in Nov and had 25k miles on it, 35k now) and that I should have stayed with a Chevrolet, I was able to start it by crawling under and jumping the started with a screwdriver. The truck started up no problem and got me home where I did some troubleshooting. Looks like I dont get solenoid power at the starter (just main power), the relays and fuses checked out, anhe d it looks like the key is still programmed.
I had been getting what seamed like a delayed start every now and again that was going on for a while, but thought it was just me. The next items I thought that may be the culprit are the neutral safety switch or the ignition switch. The gear selector seams to work fine and it wont start in either P or N, the backup camera turns on and nothing seams to be incorrectly working on that account. Also, the truck is a 2011 F350 Crew Cab 4wd Lariat with the 6.2 gas motor.
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So I'm interested in putting a new steering stabilizer on my truck and am pretty set on the Rancho RS7000 series, but I am torn between getting a single OEM replacement or the full dual stabilizer kit. Single replacement? Did it make a difference? I've heard really good things about the dual kit, but obviously the price difference is huge. I don't do a ton of off-roading, but I do drive constantly on crappy city roads which can be just as bad
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I bought a 2011 F350 that was in a collision. I have done collision repair before but I have not had to deal with air bags... Both driver wheel and passenger bags deployed. I see some for sale on EBAY for around 300 used....do I just by them and install them? Is there a reset or something else I have to do? I see some sell them with the controller as well...do I need that?
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I have an 11 F350 6.7. It has just under 200K miles on it. Yesterday I changed the oil. Very uneventful. Today however, I was driving home, about 100 miles, and my truck's temp spiked. Not like a little spike, but jumped to the 3/4 mark(if there was one) then slowly kept rising to to the overheat mark. I pulled off onto the hard shoulder waited an hour or so to let it cool down, then finished the drive home. All the way home my temp gauge seemed like it was on some sort of drug. It would jump a needle width when I would have to accelerate, then slowly cool to normal after I got up to cruising speed.
When I got home I checked the oil level and it was spot on in the "normal" range. I haven't used a different type/brand/weight of oil in the last 100k miles. Did something just give out on my truck? I had the coolant flushed and replaced at the dealer within the last 10k miles. Up until this point this truck has been exceedingly reliable. I pull a 13k 5th wheel once a month and drive about 40k-ish miles a year.
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