Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2011 F350 - Hard Starting / Cranks Through 2 Cycles Sometimes Before It Fires
Feb 25, 2016
My 2011 f-350 6.2l cold starts hard, it cranks through 2 cycles sometimes before it fires, then it might stall. Sometimes it stalls if I put it into drive or reverse before its warmed up. It has also misfired on one or several cylinders during startup. It has also misfired while driving. It has never stalled when driving. I have replaced the canister purge valve, I have done a full tune up with all factory plugs. All with no change to how it starts. My next step is a Pcv valve, I have one coming from ford today.
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Dealing with a 02 f350 7.3 powerstroke . The engine cranks fine . It fires but won't start smoke coming from exhaust while cranking and firing so seems to have good fuel . When it does start it misses for a few minutes and blue/white smoke . When the miss ends so does the smoke and starts fine after that and runs great until it sits for 12 or more hrs . Then back to same start issues . Fresh oil ,new glow plugs, new cover gaskets , glow plugs test at 1.3 ohm across all 8 of them , no voltage drop through glow plug relay , good voltage to each glow plug when tested right at glow plug terminal on each feed right at glow plug , fuel filter housing stays full doesn't seem to bleed back , high pressure oil pump pressure test was high enough to trash a 1000 lbs gauge in 2 to 3 revalutions of engine when cranking . Tested at presure sensor port .
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20 06 F350 6.0l ... Recently noticed when my climate control selector switch is on the off position, the a/c vacuum pump cycles for a few seconds then stops, then cycles, then stops.. Does this until it's changed to a different setting. Pulled the connector behind the selector and plugged the black hose and it stopped. Re-connected it and could hear site leaking so I kinked the white hose and it stopped. I have also lost my MAX a/c that is now defaulting to defrost. Is there a part number just got the hose selector, or a way to fix the existing one?
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I have a 2011 F-350 6.2L that has extremely hard shifts from 3 to 4 going up and 2 to 1 going down. Sometimes on downshifts it feels like something has ran into the back of the truck. I had the computer updated when the truck had approximately 40,000 miles on it and he assisted a little bit. The truck now has 140,000 miles and it is back to shifting horribly. I put it in the shop at the dealer on 30 December 2013. The dealer says that the problem is that the shift solenoids need to be replaced but that they are not available. The truck is still sitting at the dealer and I am being told that the parts should be available mid February.
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I recently purchased a 2011 F-350 w/6.7 diesel. When I first start it & let it run say 30 seconds and take off it shifts fine from 1 to 2 but when it goes from 2-3 it hangs there a second and then finally shifts into 3rd hard. 3rd to 4th is ok but 4-5 again is a hard shift and from 5 to 6 is OK. It will do this for a while like through the neighborhood and down the road 10 miles then it is fine. Shifts beautifully when warmed up.
My local Ford dealer has a guy that is supposed to be very knowledgeable with Super Duty trucks. I have had it to him twice and he says this is normal. All shift hard until the transmission is up to operating temperature. Says the engine is very powerful and until everything is up to temperature this will happen. If so then it would be normal to let it sit and run for a while before you take off in the morning. I am getting ready to hook the truck up to my 33' camper and go on our first camping season with the trailer/truck combination and if I need to leave it sit and warm up I will.
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Sometimes it'll start up just fine, no long crank or anything and other times she'll sit there and crank forever and not start. When it does start, it'll drive just fine, then when I turn it off and come back not even 10 minutes later it'll not start again. Does it cold and hot.
2004 F350, 6 speed manual trans
Rudy heads, ARP studs, banks air intake, banks external oil cooler, Oil filter relocation kit, EGR delete, sinister coolant filter, is mostly what I have done to it. But all those I've had on there for a year + so no recent major changes made. Had a gentleman troubleshoot saying my ficm is bad but I measured the voltage at the pins (4 pin ficm) with the truck in run and while cranking and the voltage is 47.5-48 so that rules out the ficm being bad. It's hard for me to do the troubleshooting because of the intermediate starting.
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My 1999 Ford F350 V10 will crank forever but will not start. Seems like it isn't getting fuel.
Here are the facts.
Truck 8 months ago was used by my brother.
When he got back 2 weeks it sat then truck wouldn't turn over. Thinking it was a bad battery I charged it But then I let the truck sit 8 months.
I put the battery back in and when I started cranking it the gas peddle felt floppy.
SO, I realized I was out of gas. I went and got 5 gallons.
I turned the key on and off like 5 or 6 times and then tried to start the truck.
The Pedal is NOT Floppy anymore. It has pressure like the gas is back in the line again.
But the truck will crank and crank and crank without turning over. It won't even try to turn over.
The truck has a brand new Fuel Filter in it that was put in 3 months before my bro used it so it worked after that was changed.
I assume maybe it can be the Fuel Pump but WHY would that go bad from sitting and wouldn't the Floppy feeling in the Gas peddle STILL be in the pedal if the pump was bad??
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My diesel truck is stuck at work. It cranks but it's not starting up. When I turn the key, the glow plug light takes a lot longer than usual to turn off. When I try to start the truck, it cranks fine and I get a lot of white smoke coming out the exhaust pipe. I've had this truck less than a year and I know very little about Diesel engines. I at least need to get it running long enough to get home. The parking lot at work is really busy pretty much 24/7 and towing it out of there would get pretty dicey.
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2007 6.0l cranks but no start. Read all the forums and I think I performed all the checks. Getting a ficm/ cam sensor/crank sensor no sync. I'm also getting 84.70% at the ipr while cranking. Do I have multiple problems? Watched videos on either the ficm or ipr percentage but not one that had both problems. Getting injector clatter and fuel pump runs. Didn't see anything obvious with the harness.
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OK, I have a 2002 F350 with 160k miles that cranks fine, but has a hard time starting when it is cold. By cold I mean that it is not hot from being driven in the last 5 hrs or so. No problem starting after being at rifle practice for 3 hrs or after a trip to the store. Always have trouble starting in the morning, like this morning when the temperature outside was 49 deg. I have to crank for quite a while to get it to turn over, but once it catches, it runs like a champ. Afraid I'm going to wear my starter or batteries out because It seems like I have to crank for about 2 minutes.
I have a fairly new CPS replaced less than 15k miles ago, new glow plugs, and recently replaced the leaky bleeder valve on the bowl. This difficult starting condition came about some time before the bleeder valve seal repair, and is still doing it after the repair. This problem seems to have cropped up on it's own unrelated to any work I have done. I am using Mobile 1 5W-40 diesel oil. When the no start occurs, there is no smoke present out of the tail pipe like what you would get if you had bad glow plugs. There is just no fuel getting into the injectors.
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Need to diagnose my truck issues. On my 2002 F250 V10, when I try to start it, the engine just cranks and cranks and cranks with no fire or even hint if starting. I am not sure if it has no spark or isn't getting any fuel. I just replaced all ten spark plugs and coils less than 500 miles ago. I want to perform the fix myself, but I need to get the problem diagnose the issue first.
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Shade tree mechanic, new to diesels and new to forum. I have the dreaded 03' 6.0 F350. It cranks over strong but will not start after its warmed up. I went to Auto Zone and they gave me the following codes: P2291, P132B, P0672, P0402, P0284. Once it's started it runs fine.
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It's a 2001 F-350 Crew cab short bed. Got it from the second owner which had a large file from the original owner on documentation and maintenance records. Truck has 280k, tranny about 80k. Question I have is, I kinda thought it would "feel" more powerful then it does. Temp got to about 35f last night after work and it cranked for about 15-20 sec before it started (yes I let the "Wait to start" light go out).
Then pulling out of work it would hardly get out of its own way. Does this sound normal? When it is warmed up it goes ok, but still I figured when the turbo winds up it would feel a bit "peppier". I get its a diesel and not a hot rod but I was expecting a bit more pep.
MODS on the truck that I can tell: AFE cold intake, 5"? exhaust turbo back, about 4" lift. Stock PCM. In cab controlled rear air bags, nice deck with back up camera.
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I have a F350 with a V10 Triton motor. It has 186,000 miles on it. I have difficulty in starting it after it has sat for a few days. Typically I have to turn the switch off and on multiple times but it will eventually start. Once it has started it runs and starts fine if it has not sat for any long period of time.
I connected a pressure gauge to the schrader valve. Initially when the key was turned on there was no pressure. While the engine was turning over it was about 30 psi. When the engine started it remained at 30 psi. Ran the engine at 4,000 rpm and the pressure remained about 28 psi. Shut the engine off and turned the key back on the pressure showed 20 psi and remained there.
I'm thinking maybe the problem is with the fuel pressure regulator but can seem to find it. I've spent multiple hours searching online for the location of the Pressure Regulator but no luck.
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I own a 1999 F350 with a 7.3 diesel engine, every time I drive it, it will start once then it won't start again for hours. At first I thought the starter was getting hot because of the exhaust is too close to it but I tested the wires going to the starter and i am not getting power to the starter when this happens. When it started doing this, it would only act up if it was above 80 degrees outside. Now it makes no difference. I have replaced the Valve cover gaskets, glow plug solenoid, and starter solenoid.
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My 02 ford V10 is hard starting. If I start it every day, it will start and run well. If I let it sit longer than one day I need to spray some starting fluid to get it to run. I turn the key on and let it pump up before I try to start it. After it starts with starting fluid, and runs for a minute or so it will start up with no problem.
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I tow 10-15K; 6-10x per month with this truck. I can feel the braking ability starting to drop off so I want to get them done pretty quick. I am more or less happy with OEM performance but if there is a better value, and with my SO starting to haul the horse trailer around.. I wouldn't mind upgrading.
What is worth the money? I'm fresh out of school trying to figure out what the best value is.
Calipers?
Rotors?
Pads?
Brake Lines?
What would provide me with a noticeable improvement without breaking the bank?
Last question, could worn rotors cause vibration/shaking in the steering (primarily when turning ramps) at 50-60mph? Tires are brand new, problem showed up before they were replaced.
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Came out to start my truck today a hit the key and got nothing. After I settled down from being upset about my truck already giving me trouble (bought it in Nov and had 25k miles on it, 35k now) and that I should have stayed with a Chevrolet, I was able to start it by crawling under and jumping the started with a screwdriver. The truck started up no problem and got me home where I did some troubleshooting. Looks like I dont get solenoid power at the starter (just main power), the relays and fuses checked out, anhe d it looks like the key is still programmed.
I had been getting what seamed like a delayed start every now and again that was going on for a while, but thought it was just me. The next items I thought that may be the culprit are the neutral safety switch or the ignition switch. The gear selector seams to work fine and it wont start in either P or N, the backup camera turns on and nothing seams to be incorrectly working on that account. Also, the truck is a 2011 F350 Crew Cab 4wd Lariat with the 6.2 gas motor.
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2002 F350 5.4 . I did some plowing today, truck ran Great, but noticed the Auto Shifter starting to get some play in it, 185 k on it. I recall reading about how to tighten it back up.
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I have a 2003 F350 6.0 King Ranch. My first diesel truck. Bought it in March 2016. One owner with 102000 miles on it. Has a Bullet Proof oil cooler and 4 inch exhaust. Truck ran great until a week ago. Now, under any hard acceleration it blows out blue/gray smoke and does not seem to have as much power. Coolant level is constant and I cannot find any traces of water and oil mixing.
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i have a f350 superduty with a 7.3 turbo diesel and I pretty much hafta keep it plugged in to get it to start, i have installed all new glow plugs and both relays have been changed and the problem is still there, only other option i have not tried yet was changing the pcm controller but unsure if that is the problem ..
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