Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2011 F350 - Front Brake Lines Too Short
Jun 4, 2017
When on my 2-post lift my front brake lines on my '11 4x4 are pulled TIGHT, like stupid tight. It's also dumb that the soft line points UP 'cause it gets tugged down to a brutally tight 180.
I've got the front lift pads under the control arms, too, but near the very rear of the control arms so the axle isn't even dropped out all the way I don't think.
There's a bracket down near the bottom of the coil springs that could just be sectioned/lengthened, which I think would alleviate my issue. I'll be working on this soon.
What manufacturer builds a vehicle that yanks on the brake lines under full suspension droop? Shouldn't this be on an engineer's final checklist before the vehicle is released? Oh wait, they gave that task to Team TTB and Engineering Group TFI Or maybe they gave it to the same Audi team that designed the Allroad with airbags that can be damaged if you don't "lock" them out before lifting the vehicle......
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At low speeds, I notice a squeel sound in all four wheels. Ford tells me that it is due to the type of metallic pads they use and is essentially brake dust noise that warrants no repair.
Any after market pads that are good quality for towing heavy loads, yet aren't metallic in composition? For instance, are porcelin pads a good choice.
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Truck is 2011, F350, 4x4 CC Long box with a 6.2, 124,000 km on it. Was driving home last night towing my jet boat when I heard a sudden noise from the front end, kind of shudder, first reaction was a flat so headed to the curd. No flat, nothing running hot, no play in wheels, all looked good underneath the front end. Pulled out and drove away, got about 15 km and it happened again, looked all around nothing obvious so pulled out and drove home (25 km) no issue.
This morning wanted to investigate further. Drove truck down the block and heard a definite rotating type sound. Not a grinding more like a scrape sound. After a minute it went away. Went into a parking lot and drove in tight circles but no strange noise. Found that the auto locking hubs were not working but hub would lock in manual. No strange noises with hubs locked in either.
Jacked up truck rotate front wheels, no sound and no play or wiggle on either side. Pulled the hubs and the passenger side had water in it. Hub was not rusty but it didn't look as good as the other side. Not sure how water got there as I have never driven in water, although I am not original owner but have had it two years and put 25,000 km on it. Could the water have gone in deeper and caused a bearing to fail?
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Any good info on front brake replacement parts to get better braking out of these beasts? My pads are now needing replacement but I would like to get better performance than that of factory parts....
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F350 Super Duty sometimes the front driver side brake sticks and will pull to the left while driving and pull hard to the right while braking. It has a slight front end vibration when the symptoms are present. The wheel will be boiling hot to the touch and the smell of brakes burning is obvious.
After the truck sits, it will be good with no incident for weeks.
With the wheel still hot and on jackstand, the front wheel seems to turn freely until the brakes are applied, and seems to spin free again as brakes are released.
It seems to happen when I have a "hard braking" incident going forward until I park the truck and let it sit. If i consciously brake soft, the brakes seem to be fine.
I have read some of the posts and this is different in that it is intermittent.
I have replaced the brake hose as I thought it could be the "check-valve" symptom. No luck.
I have checked the sliders and re-lubed and they slide freely.
The caliper is relatively new and the fluid in the system is fresh as i recently changed the rear brake line and completely flushed and bled all four corners.
Do i just change the caliper, or, is there a way to find out if one of the pistons is intermittently binding? I would hate to invest in a new caliper if that is not the issue.
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How to replace the 2 "drop down" rubber brake lines on a '13 250. They appear to be secured to the bracket that looks like is the bracket that's holding the DEF tank on. And by the quick look without much digging in appears as though I have to take the DEF tank out or significantly loosen it to get at them. I'm no neophyte when it comes to this stuff and will take the DEF tank out of necessity, was just wondering.
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I plan on replacing the brake lines on our 1999 Ford F-250 Super Duty. The rear line blew out right by the hose, on the framerail. All five lines, all five hoses. What size lines? Looks like front two are 3/16", rear two over the axle are 3/16", and the rear line in the frame is 1/4".
We are removing the bed (2013 bed) to make things easier. I am thinking fuel lines and parking brake cable while the bed is off. I have stainless steel hoses from KLM performance and I am also planning on replacing the rear rubber hoses. Obviously I'm using nickel copper line. There shouldn't even be an option for other brake line.
[URL].....
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I have a 08 f250, my abs is giving me nothing but problems, always have, have any of you's ever ran new brake line and by passed the abs?
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2011 F-350 XL, I can hear a squeal coming from the front brakes when rolling forward slowly, believe the pads are dragging on the rotors. If I touch the brake pedal the squeal stops as it does when I turn the wheel. Took the calipers off and greased the slide pins and put it all back together, still got the squeal. What don't I know???
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Windshield wipers, and washer were suddenly not working the other day, so I discovered a blown fuse. Put a new one in, and it immediately blew again. So there is definitely something grounding out, and I am suspecting the wiper motor itself because so far I have not been able to find any wires shorting out, but before I go to the trouble of pulling the motor out and testing it, or replacing it.
Truck is a 2002 F350CC 7.3 TD. Wipers were working fine the other day before I pressure washed it, which is why I really suspect the wiper motor itself.
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I'm gonna replace my front and rear brake pads. Any tips? Do I need to pull the rotor off and clean the axel? I've watched a couple of youtube videos but they leave me with a few answers. I have all the tools, what kinda lubricants will i need? Any recommendations? I hoping I can do a flawless job without and squealing...
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Came out to start my truck today a hit the key and got nothing. After I settled down from being upset about my truck already giving me trouble (bought it in Nov and had 25k miles on it, 35k now) and that I should have stayed with a Chevrolet, I was able to start it by crawling under and jumping the started with a screwdriver. The truck started up no problem and got me home where I did some troubleshooting. Looks like I dont get solenoid power at the starter (just main power), the relays and fuses checked out, anhe d it looks like the key is still programmed.
I had been getting what seamed like a delayed start every now and again that was going on for a while, but thought it was just me. The next items I thought that may be the culprit are the neutral safety switch or the ignition switch. The gear selector seams to work fine and it wont start in either P or N, the backup camera turns on and nothing seams to be incorrectly working on that account. Also, the truck is a 2011 F350 Crew Cab 4wd Lariat with the 6.2 gas motor.
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I bought a 2011 F350 that was in a collision. I have done collision repair before but I have not had to deal with air bags... Both driver wheel and passenger bags deployed. I see some for sale on EBAY for around 300 used....do I just by them and install them? Is there a reset or something else I have to do? I see some sell them with the controller as well...do I need that?
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I have an 11 F350 6.7. It has just under 200K miles on it. Yesterday I changed the oil. Very uneventful. Today however, I was driving home, about 100 miles, and my truck's temp spiked. Not like a little spike, but jumped to the 3/4 mark(if there was one) then slowly kept rising to to the overheat mark. I pulled off onto the hard shoulder waited an hour or so to let it cool down, then finished the drive home. All the way home my temp gauge seemed like it was on some sort of drug. It would jump a needle width when I would have to accelerate, then slowly cool to normal after I got up to cruising speed.
When I got home I checked the oil level and it was spot on in the "normal" range. I haven't used a different type/brand/weight of oil in the last 100k miles. Did something just give out on my truck? I had the coolant flushed and replaced at the dealer within the last 10k miles. Up until this point this truck has been exceedingly reliable. I pull a 13k 5th wheel once a month and drive about 40k-ish miles a year.
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I have a 2011 F350 with the towing package. I got it used as it and it was a northern truck. My towing mirrors won't extend in or out. They fold and unfold just fine. When I press the button to telescope them I can hear the motor running so I know the fuse is good. I took the glass off the mirrors and scraped some salt out of the joints. I sprayed some lube on the joints as well but still no luck. I also tried forcing them but not too much to avoid breaking them.
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I have a 2011 F350 with camper package (didn't want it). When I drive on a bumpy road (without 5th wheel), the truck suspension does not absorb the shock. The ruts just throws the truck side to side. Really hard, so I can't go on a dirt, rough road. On one bump it poped off my rear tire cap.
My problem may be with the camper package trying to keep the truck from going back and forth.
There is a 7/16 inch steal rod going from the truck bed, around the differential, and back up to the other side of the truck. Is that the rear stablizer rod?? Can I disconnect it? What would be
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2011 F350 with fluid leaking in through the firewall. Does the Hydro booster have to be replaced or is there a gaskets or seal on the rod that goes to the brake pedal?
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I feel a vibration and hear a rattle/grinding noise intermittently in the front driver or passenger floorboard only when the truck is cornering AND starting uphill or downhill. The vibration lasts a second or two and seems to be directly related to throttle/rpm acceleration while cornering and not something just loose and clunking around.
Dealer could not reproduce but it just happened again yesterday a couple of times in city traffic after dealer inspected and greased front end zirks.
What should I be looking for and how would you go about getting this resolved? It started happening in the last couple of months and never made a sound prior. Truck is in year 4 of 6 year warranty so I want to tackle now, but I need better understanding of problem.
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what is the best computer chip for a 2011 F-350 to get better gas mileage?
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I have a 2011 F-350 6.2L that has extremely hard shifts from 3 to 4 going up and 2 to 1 going down. Sometimes on downshifts it feels like something has ran into the back of the truck. I had the computer updated when the truck had approximately 40,000 miles on it and he assisted a little bit. The truck now has 140,000 miles and it is back to shifting horribly. I put it in the shop at the dealer on 30 December 2013. The dealer says that the problem is that the shift solenoids need to be replaced but that they are not available. The truck is still sitting at the dealer and I am being told that the parts should be available mid February.
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So my vents stopped actuating to different positions in my 2011 6.7 F350. I read that it could be a vacuum pump or solenoid issue. In any event, I turned 4x4 on and went down the street and made a u-turn - 4x4 seems to be on as the truck wants to hop the outside wheel when turning. I want to check the vacuum pump anyway but for the life of me cannot find it anywhere. Moreover, google turns up nothing which is making me start to believe the new trucks have a completely different system.
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