2011 F350 with fluid leaking in through the firewall. Does the Hydro booster have to be replaced or is there a gaskets or seal on the rod that goes to the brake pedal?
View 14 RepliesI have a 2005 F350 XL Heavy Duty 6.0L truck that has 68,XXX miles. I recently changed the rear brake pads and about a week later the rear passenger side is leaking brake fluid. The fluid is slowly dripping from the bottom caliper bolt but i am not sure if there are seals in this area. the driver side is fine and the fluid is only leaking from the bottom caliper bolt not the top.
View 2 RepliesTrying to stay up on my maintenance on my '11 f-350 diesel. It just turned 59k. I can only find Ford's recommended service interval for changing the fluid in the transfer case listed in the "Special Operating Conditions" section of my Scheduled Maintenance Guide for towing, delivery, off-road and dusty conditions at 60,000 miles. I tow some, but maybe 20% of the time, I end up driving a lot of stop and go though.
So I found this nice how to online "Guzzle's Transfer Case Fluid Change" - it's for a 02 heavy duty, is it about the same on the newer diesel trucks?
Pinion seal on my truck is leaking. At auto parts store they gave me National seal part number 4278. It does not fit it is too small.I went back and other seal they have is too big. What is the part number?
View 11 RepliesSo my 2000 f350 is leaking transmission fluid from the cooler line. It goes to the rear of the transmission, but where does it go to from there?
View 5 RepliesI have a 2013 f-350 with 58,000 miles. I'm a general contractor and drove my truck to a very nice home with decorative concrete. After I left the customers house they called my office to say I left oil stains on their driveway. I looked under the hood and noticed motor oil leaking on the front left side of the engine. I told the customer we will take care of the stain. I've never had a diesel motor leak this soon on me.
My mechanic told me to go to a Ford dealer so I did. The dealer told me that this is not covered under the warranty as it is a oil pump/brake vacuum. THE MOTOR IS LEAKING OIL. I told the dealer that the motor is leaking oil and I have a warranty that I signed up for. He told me that Ford considers this issue the same thing as an alternator.
I've done all the fluid but the power steering and the coolant. I'd like to change out the power steering fluid in my 08' F350. What fluid do I need ?
View 2 RepliesI have power steering fluid leaking out of the bottom of the Brake master cylinder out of a round hole. Every time I pushed brakes it leaks a good amount of power steering fluid out. Why it would do this and is there a screw missing out of the hole or what?
View 6 RepliesMy grandfathers 99 F350, started suddenly, do not know if it was while sitting or while driving. Its more of a stream than anything else. Coming from the rear, cannot see where, appears to be toward the vee of the engine, not inside the bellhousing. The firewall insulation is damp from coolant. Doesnt start until engine starts warming up.
Is there something commonly replaced back there? Didnt want to yank the intake in 20* weather for exploratory surgery. Is not the heater hoses. Idk if the EGRs are cooled on these, thats about my only idea other than freeze plug, coolant tests good down to -20ish, hasnt been below zero in weeks (prior to leak). Not familiar with any of the modular engines.
I'm a total beginner and am slowly nursing an '87 F350 7.5L back to running condition as a plow/farm truck. It regularly loses coolant, even on very short trips around the farm and I figured that radiator needed to be replaced. Today I was hooking a snow plow up and had it running for about 15 minutes when light grey smoke started to come out of the vents in the cab. Looking at the engine, I noticed a lot of coolant leaking out from below the heater housing. The coolant was dripping out of what looks like a protruding bit of pipe a where a hose should be attached. What am I looking at here?
View 4 RepliesI recently did the water pump and hoses due to seeping around the water pump gasket. While there, I decided to replace the overflow reservoir as well - old and slightly discolored. I'm now on my 3rd overflow reservoir - they are all leaking at the front seam. I don't think I have a blown headgasket or injector issues - no signs of white smoke ever, and there isn't any oil or fuel in the coolant. I've also tried a new cap, but it's starting to leak before I build any noticeable pressure - I can back off on the cap and don't get much pressure released. So - just bad luck on parts from Ford? All were OEM from different Ford dealers.
Pics - hard to see on here but go to Imgur to zoom in. [URL] ...
1999 F350 7.3 CCLB Dually. Stock except for DP Tuner and Gauges.
Put new backing plates, parking brake shoes, springs, etc on my 2004 F350 DRW 4x4. Replaced the inner hub seals and axle o-ring. Filled with Ford Rear end lube and went for a test drive. All was well. Went out last night to take her out again and I've got diff lube running out of both sides on the inside of the rims. Did Ford sell me the wrong seals? Could I have installed the seals wrong? Ford seal part number is 4C3Z1S177A. Axle is a Dana 80, confirmed by reading the tag on the diff.
View 2 RepliesCame out to start my truck today a hit the key and got nothing. After I settled down from being upset about my truck already giving me trouble (bought it in Nov and had 25k miles on it, 35k now) and that I should have stayed with a Chevrolet, I was able to start it by crawling under and jumping the started with a screwdriver. The truck started up no problem and got me home where I did some troubleshooting. Looks like I dont get solenoid power at the starter (just main power), the relays and fuses checked out, anhe d it looks like the key is still programmed.
I had been getting what seamed like a delayed start every now and again that was going on for a while, but thought it was just me. The next items I thought that may be the culprit are the neutral safety switch or the ignition switch. The gear selector seams to work fine and it wont start in either P or N, the backup camera turns on and nothing seams to be incorrectly working on that account. Also, the truck is a 2011 F350 Crew Cab 4wd Lariat with the 6.2 gas motor.
OK so my 2001 F250 was leaking power steering fluid from the lower portion of the gearbox (where the pitman arm attaches).
I found a thread on this forum where it showed how you could change the seals out WITHOUT taking the gearbox out.
So I got the pitman arm off with a heavy duty puller. Then I scraped out the 1st rubber seal hoping to reveal a snap ring behind it. Well, the seal is 99% scraped off, but there is not evidence of a snap ring. It does seem like there is some metallic ring holding another rubber seal in behind it. But again, I can't find the little open spots that you put your snap ring pliers in to get snap rings out.
How do I get this metallic thingy out???? I already broke a small drill bit trying to drill it out. It just doesn't seem like the best way to go about it.
I just picked up an 09 F250 a couple of weeks ago and I was planning on replacing all the fluids since I'm not sure when everything had been done in the past, but it did pull a camper 5th wheel. It has about 93000 Km/57000mi on it
One thing I noticed when reading the manual is that a rear diff fluid change is not necessary on these rear axles unless they have been submerged in water or repaired etc..
Just after I got it I noticed the pinion seal was leaking. It was fixed under warranty but the dealer did not replace the diff fluid as they said Ford will not pay for it.
My question is do you think I need to replace the diff fluid or should it still be good, given the relatively low mileage.
I bought a 2011 F350 that was in a collision. I have done collision repair before but I have not had to deal with air bags... Both driver wheel and passenger bags deployed. I see some for sale on EBAY for around 300 used....do I just by them and install them? Is there a reset or something else I have to do? I see some sell them with the controller as well...do I need that?
View 14 RepliesI have an 11 F350 6.7. It has just under 200K miles on it. Yesterday I changed the oil. Very uneventful. Today however, I was driving home, about 100 miles, and my truck's temp spiked. Not like a little spike, but jumped to the 3/4 mark(if there was one) then slowly kept rising to to the overheat mark. I pulled off onto the hard shoulder waited an hour or so to let it cool down, then finished the drive home. All the way home my temp gauge seemed like it was on some sort of drug. It would jump a needle width when I would have to accelerate, then slowly cool to normal after I got up to cruising speed.
When I got home I checked the oil level and it was spot on in the "normal" range. I haven't used a different type/brand/weight of oil in the last 100k miles. Did something just give out on my truck? I had the coolant flushed and replaced at the dealer within the last 10k miles. Up until this point this truck has been exceedingly reliable. I pull a 13k 5th wheel once a month and drive about 40k-ish miles a year.
My 2000 f350 is leaking oil from a bolt on the passengers side valve cover. it is one of the bolts on top of the valve cover. Can I just remove the bolt and put a rubber washer under it or do I need a new valve cover?
View 2 RepliesI have a 2011 F350 with the towing package. I got it used as it and it was a northern truck. My towing mirrors won't extend in or out. They fold and unfold just fine. When I press the button to telescope them I can hear the motor running so I know the fuse is good. I took the glass off the mirrors and scraped some salt out of the joints. I sprayed some lube on the joints as well but still no luck. I also tried forcing them but not too much to avoid breaking them.
View 1 RepliesI have a 2011 F350 with camper package (didn't want it). When I drive on a bumpy road (without 5th wheel), the truck suspension does not absorb the shock. The ruts just throws the truck side to side. Really hard, so I can't go on a dirt, rough road. On one bump it poped off my rear tire cap.
My problem may be with the camper package trying to keep the truck from going back and forth.
There is a 7/16 inch steal rod going from the truck bed, around the differential, and back up to the other side of the truck. Is that the rear stablizer rod?? Can I disconnect it? What would be
I feel a vibration and hear a rattle/grinding noise intermittently in the front driver or passenger floorboard only when the truck is cornering AND starting uphill or downhill. The vibration lasts a second or two and seems to be directly related to throttle/rpm acceleration while cornering and not something just loose and clunking around.
Dealer could not reproduce but it just happened again yesterday a couple of times in city traffic after dealer inspected and greased front end zirks.
What should I be looking for and how would you go about getting this resolved? It started happening in the last couple of months and never made a sound prior. Truck is in year 4 of 6 year warranty so I want to tackle now, but I need better understanding of problem.