Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2011 F350 - Check Engine Light And Codes P2020 And P20E8
Nov 21, 2016
I own a 2011 F350 dually with the 6.7 in it. It has 136000 on it and zero mods. I was driving over the weekend and the traction control light, brake light, and the ABS lights all came on and the information center displayed Check Brake System. We were towing our 5th wheel when this happened. The brakes on the pickup and trailer both work and we have no problems stopping. About every 15 minutes or so this message pops up and it chimes again. My insight is reading a U0418 code. We are stopped now and the code and alert message is still popping up without the trailer. All fluid levels are where they should be.
We are also getting a check engine light and my Insight is reading the codes P2020 and P20E8.
I can reset the codes dealing with the reductant leakage and low pressure, but not the codes dealing with the brake system.
I have had my pickup in to 2 different ford dealers for these issues and they cannot find anything wrong. I did notice that this time when the Check Brake system warning appeared that the pick up started lunging a bit, we lost power to the stereo and the windshield wipers came on. Our fuel mileage has remained the same and the pickup still tows like a beast.
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2 weeks ago I had the check engine light come up on my 2011 F-250 6.2 XLT. Did a diagnostic check and Codes P2098 and P2272 came up. Did some research and found out the second O2 sensor on passenger side had gone bad. I replaced it with a Motorcraft O2 sensor and cleared the code. It has not came back since. But still not getting the fuel mileage I got before. What else could be wrong?
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Check engine light on, these are the codes, can't find anywhere? Seems to run fine. '07 fsi V-8.
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I literally just purchased a "new" 06 F350 and have had it just over a month. I bought it from a used car place in Salt Lake City and have put roughly 250 miles on it, it has 105k on it. While having 1 sled in the bed and towing a 1-place snowmobile trailer up a 8% grade my check engine light lit up. Little back story, there was a slight hiccup that I started to realize it had about a few days after purchasing it, would kind of buck a few times under normal acceleration around to 40-60 mph not every time just occasionally. Been meaning to take it to a friend to have it looked at, just been fairly busy.
Now when I was driving it back home (~8-10 miles, almost exclusively downhill) at stop light and accelerating from 0mph it would not prime the boost, I was getting almost no power until I hit 2000 rpm then all of a sudden things were fine turbo would engage I was able to drive normally. It hasn't moved in 2 days as I will not drive it until I know what is wrong with it. In doing a little research I read about turbo veins being stuck open, ignition problems, and a few other things that might pertain to what is going on with my truck. I have a buddy coming in the morning tomorrow to pull some codes with a scanner so I will have more information here shortly but I just wanted to get the conversation started on this.
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I have a 2006 350 6.0l check engine light came on today truck is running normal except the fuel gauge and mile to empty gauges keep changing when I turn the truck off. What this could be?
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2001 F-350 4x4, 5.4 automatic.
Where to start , check engine light is on. Nothing seems wrong , trucks running good , nothing happened , just the light. I kinda like the truck so I would like to find out what its issue is?
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My 1999 F350 SD V10 that would crank but not start. I ended up checking numerous things because before it decided to truly stop running, it would run rough for a time and then be fine. The check Engine Light came on and I got the codes P0171 & P0174. Well, I bought MAF Cleaner and took the air cleaner housing off, disassembled it and thoroughly cleaned the sensor and replaced the air cleaner. I continued to get those same error codes, but before I could go any further, the truck totally died. It sat for nearly 2 months with the bed in the air as I had decided to lift the bed to check the fuel pump vs. drop the tank.
Fast forward a bit and I have since replaced the fuel pump and put $40 of Premium Gas along with Royal Purple Fuel Treatment in the tank because I figured things got stirred up and could use a bit of cleaning. I do not drive much, and during the first few trips, it ran perfectly. Then today, it started again with the rough running and trying to die if I let it idle. If I pushed on the gas, it would completely smooth out. If this were a carbureted engine, I would think the low idle was set too low, but since it is not, I am guessing it is one or more of the sensor/s that is/are causing the issue.
I am disabled and can’t play parts swap until I hit on the right part, so I was hoping that I might get some guidance here to narrow things down to the most probably causes so that I won’t go broke changing things until I hit the “right one”. The truck has 153,000 miles on it and I had bought it from a retired couple who used it to pull their 5th wheel travel trailer, so it had mostly highway miles on it. It was immaculate when I bought it and ran perfectly, needing only normal maintenance (oil changes, etc.) over the past 12 years that I have owned it. In those 12 years, I have put about 60,000 miles on it.
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I bought a 06 f350 Friday night with 132,000 miles. No lights when we test drove or left the dealership. About 20 miles down the road the check engine light came on, truck ran fine so I continued the trip home no problem. Saturday night I had the codes check and it said a blocked EGR passage. Yesterday after a decent amount of driving a wrench light started popping on after 20-30 minutes of driving. But no memory code. Would that be related to the blocked EGR? Will cleaning the EGR fix both lights or what?
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I have a 2002 f350 5.4l that has stalling issues, first some back round. Last week I pulled up the a stop light and the truck stalled I figured it was a iced fuel line as it was very cold so I put a bottle of drygas in the tank. Evidently there was a lot of moister in there because as soon as I started the truck check engine light came on and truck would not idle at all. I got through that tank and am now on my second tank. It is better but the truck will still stall when stopped at light (has never stalled in park or on the road only while stopped in drive) the check engine also light went off halfway through the first tank. What next?
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1-11-11 built F250 with the 6.2. 45K miles. Took it to my local HD truck shop to have the code read. The reader said "Evap pressure sensor switch malfunction", "vac above pressure limit wouldn't bleed". He cleared it and it has now come back.
1. Where is said switch located? Is this something I can do as I'm a seasoned wrench but I'm not dropping the tank in my driveway in the winter.
2. Is it in the tank or outside the tank?
3. Has there been any TSBs or recalls on this before I attempt to repair?
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Have a an 11 f350 6.2 gas throwing p0171 and 0174. Driving the truck it has spark knock pretty bad. Ive parked it at this point. Its a tow truck so I need it fixed and back on the road. I've checked the hoses going to the pcvs they appear to be ok.... Also upon starting the truck it just sounds weak.....
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I bought this truck (2011 F-350 6.2l) used a month ago with 125000 miles on it. Of course the MIL light came on as soon as the ink dried. The codes read PO420 & PO430 and my local Ford Service said replace the cats. I said what is the cause of the failure, ford said here is a list of possible causes but it's not reading other codes so they don't know what caused the failure.
Well, I went ahead and replaced both catalytic converters, all four O2 sensors, and I replaced all sixteen spark plugs. Guess what, the MIL light is back on not 24 hours later reading PO420, PO430, and now PO620 and PO645. So I just went back to Ford today and all they did was cleared the codes and told me to call if the light comes back on. They said my PCM is up to date but why it's now reading GENCOM code or AC Clutch code.
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I have a 97 F350 5.8 with E40D trans. I bought the truck with it shifting hard thinking maybe a simple filter/fluid change would fix it. It may have worked a little but did not fix the issue. There were 3 or 4 codes that I have already cleared up with new parts. I am still getting a 327 (something with EGR?) and 629 (Converter clutch control circuit failure). These show up in KOEO and KOER self test. The O/D does not flash ( bulb does work).
Parts that have been replaced: VSS, MLPS, new connector going into solenoid pack (tabs were broken), TPS. Removed the trans wiring harness and there is no damage or loose connections. When I replaced the solenoid connector I noticed there was some trans fluid in the connection. I cleaned it the best I could and reinstalled with dielectric grease.
The truck runs fine and shifts in and out of every gear fine its just shifting hard. If I unhooked the battery it will shift perfect for 5-10 minutes but then the hard shifting returns.
The only other thing I can find with my research is maybe the solenoid pack needs replaced. I figured if I take it somewhere they are going to want to rebuild/replace transmission. It seems like it can't be something very major since it will shift fine when reset...
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Just got larger tires on my truck and tire pressure monitor light is on. How would I go about resetting this?
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I was running tire chains on my front end and broke the wires going to the wheel (I know ,not smart) . Immediately Service AdvanceTrac, Hill Descent fault, ABS light came on. I took it in to a shop and they repaired the wires but lights are still on and won't clear. Buttons on the dash wont work either. Messed up the sensors maybe?
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First off I want to say I love my 11 f350 6.3 srw she's a awesome truck. I pull a small 7x14 trailer for my biz..
(3600-400) is the usually weight, I always use my tow feature. One day last week I start out hit my button in go, but I notice the engine braking/down shifting wasn't working. The trans still shifts smooth n normal the light is on the dash but no tow engage.
I check the transmission wire plug to make sure it'd getting a good connection, it does. I take the rubber boot off next to the shifter look at those wires they look ok not pinch or nothing, so I'm stumped.
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I have a annoying check coolant additive warning light that wont go away, is their another way to turn off the light other than the button on the steering wheel? I have searched the forum but have had no luck, my coolant level is at it's proper level.
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I have a 1999 Ford V-10 Triton 6.8L engine with 100,000 miles in my Motorhome. Service engine soon light has been a problem for the past couple months. I have replaced the O2 sensor on the passenger side and the EGR valve. After that I drove for about 300+ miles continuously and stopped to get gas. Light stayed off and I thought I had it fixed but after starting up again the light came back on. The codes are P0171 and 0174.
I had the air filter replaced before changing the sensor and valve and mechanic left the Mass air flow sensor out of the socket I had a sluggish engine and at the time I thought I sucked water into the filter, I was driving in a pouring rain, this sensor plugs into the air intake above the filter correct?) I plugged that back in. What is my next move because I reset the service engine soon light and it runs great then the light comes back on after I shutdown and restart.
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2003 f350 2wd 5.4 auto cab and chassis with 40 gal rear tank replaced fuel pump/fuel filter/spark plugs/IAC no codes
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2001 f350 7.3 diesel and I come up with the codes for upper and lower dual generator fault. I have only one alternator not the dual.. I checked the gauge and it is running at 14 consistently. But the service engine soon light keeps coming on...I clear them and they come right back... Alternator is only 2 years old and not a rmf..
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Pulled into work and the truck was running fine then i got out and shut it off and went to start it again to move it 5 minutes later and it would start and misfire and chug and the wrench light came on as well as check engine and abs. I replaced the throttle body motor with the doorman part and I'm installing a new electronic pedal today as well.
The weird part is the chugging as i replaced all plugs and coil packs, plugs are champion double platinum. when all this started it was raining pretty hard out side I've cleaned all plugs with compressed air and used dietetic grease on most until i ran out. Truck is a 2006 f250 with 3v 5.4 automatic... Truck is my work truck and i am stumped on this .....could cam sensors cause the same issues? What about egr valve?
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