At low speeds, I notice a squeel sound in all four wheels. Ford tells me that it is due to the type of metallic pads they use and is essentially brake dust noise that warrants no repair.
Any after market pads that are good quality for towing heavy loads, yet aren't metallic in composition? For instance, are porcelin pads a good choice.
2011 F-350 XL, I can hear a squeal coming from the front brakes when rolling forward slowly, believe the pads are dragging on the rotors. If I touch the brake pedal the squeal stops as it does when I turn the wheel. Took the calipers off and greased the slide pins and put it all back together, still got the squeal. What don't I know???
View 9 RepliesWhen on my 2-post lift my front brake lines on my '11 4x4 are pulled TIGHT, like stupid tight. It's also dumb that the soft line points UP 'cause it gets tugged down to a brutally tight 180.
I've got the front lift pads under the control arms, too, but near the very rear of the control arms so the axle isn't even dropped out all the way I don't think.
There's a bracket down near the bottom of the coil springs that could just be sectioned/lengthened, which I think would alleviate my issue. I'll be working on this soon.
What manufacturer builds a vehicle that yanks on the brake lines under full suspension droop? Shouldn't this be on an engineer's final checklist before the vehicle is released? Oh wait, they gave that task to Team TTB and Engineering Group TFI Or maybe they gave it to the same Audi team that designed the Allroad with airbags that can be damaged if you don't "lock" them out before lifting the vehicle......
I have a 2004 F350 Crew Cab DRW 4WD 6.0L.
The front drive shaft is making a high pitched metallic squeal while the truck is in motion. I thought it might be the universal joints but after lubricating the joints, I can still hear the squeal and it sounds like it is coming from inside the drive shaft. I also hear this squeal when I spin the drive shaft by hand.
I have quite a few questions about these drive shafts:
- What would cause a squeal from within the drive shaft?
- Are there any replaceable parts or do I have to get a new drive shaft?
- How do I identify the correct drive shaft part for my truck? Seems like there are a LOT of different models on the web.
- Are any of the aftermarket drive shafts any good? Any to avoid?
- Is this a DIY job or will I need to take it in to the shop?
I have a 2011 F-350 Diesel. It started making a strange whining sound when I start it in the morning. Very random and only does it when it's 0- -4 c. Took it to the dealership and they said its the cooler fan clutch. Got it replaced yesterday, and this morning I started it up and the whining sound was back. It also had a weird vibrating sound. What it could be?
View 10 RepliesI have an 2001 Ford F250 V10 CCSB. I installed 3157 LED Brake//Turn light. Now when I turn in my left turn signal it blinks fast which I can live with that but it would be nice if it blinked at the regular phase. Here my big problem. When I turn on my right turn signal there's a loud squeal in the cab of my truck. !!!
View 8 RepliesI have a 1999 f350 v10 stock truck. It has plenty of power when it's cold out or raining or I'm on backrooms or highways but if I drive through town on a hot day the transmission kicks bad I have changed the fluid and filter, it also seems to shift at a high rpm from 2nd to 3rd. Unless I you let off quick and go back on kinda like engaging a 2 speed rear end. Does it need a bigger trans cooler or is the trans shot
View 4 Replies1999 F-350 7.3 Dually 2wd Front End issues. I think I may have several things going on so here goes. Truck has about 130,000 miles on it . Bought it with 60,000 miles in 2009.
It's always worn the front tires weird but it's gotten a lot worse and it's happening in about 10-15 thousand miles now. It's wearing the tires on both sidewalls like under-inflation but I run 70 lbs in them. I've noticed for several years now that it makes a knocking sound and I feel it in the floorboard, shakes in the steering wheel when I turn to the left only in a corner at speed. (65-70) ...
Now it's started intermittently going into the death wobble at slow speeds like the caster is to negative on it. I'm sure it could use some shocks but I just rotated the tires and I felt no play anywhere. I know when we used to get that bumping in the floor board on older Fords it was a bad radius arm bushing but that couldn't be all of what's going on here. I've done searches on this and it has happened to others but I haven't found a resolution from any yet.
Came out to start my truck today a hit the key and got nothing. After I settled down from being upset about my truck already giving me trouble (bought it in Nov and had 25k miles on it, 35k now) and that I should have stayed with a Chevrolet, I was able to start it by crawling under and jumping the started with a screwdriver. The truck started up no problem and got me home where I did some troubleshooting. Looks like I dont get solenoid power at the starter (just main power), the relays and fuses checked out, anhe d it looks like the key is still programmed.
I had been getting what seamed like a delayed start every now and again that was going on for a while, but thought it was just me. The next items I thought that may be the culprit are the neutral safety switch or the ignition switch. The gear selector seams to work fine and it wont start in either P or N, the backup camera turns on and nothing seams to be incorrectly working on that account. Also, the truck is a 2011 F350 Crew Cab 4wd Lariat with the 6.2 gas motor.
I have a 2011 f250 6.2 cclb and it shakes around 70 to 75 mph. Not terribly but enough to annoy the crap out of me. Now I have put new tires on it recently, new Rancho 9900 adjustable shocks, I have it aligned regularly and tires rotated and balanced every 5000 miles or so. I have had two dealerships look at and my local shop and they can't see anything visibly wrong with it.
View 7 RepliesRecently my F350 has failed to downshift when the accelerator pedal is pressed to the floor to speed up in traffic. It will usually happen when traveling at speeds in the 30's-40's. It will shift quickly at slower speeds. I have a scan guage on it all the time and it is not throwing any codes.
The transmission has only been serviced by the dealer; last done about 24000 miles ago. No leaks or low fluids/no burned smells. Stock setup with no heavy towing use. Currently at 228000+ miles, this is the first issue with the transmission assuming I am looking at the right area for the cause.
2005 F350 XLT 4WD
I'm having a strange issue with my 2008 F350 6.4. I have only had this truck for about 2 months now. Every time it gets wet (from rain or a carwash), the 4x4 low light begins flashing, and the truck surges badly at low speeds. When I get above about 25 MPH, the light stops, and the truck runs normally. At the next stoplight, it happens all over again. After a couple days of dry time (?), the truck is back to normal (until it gets wet again). I have found a couple of old threads involving some similar symptoms, but they were never resolved on this forum (that I could find). I believe the transfer case selector motor has been replaced at some point, as it has a Dorman brand sticker on it. I wouldn't think Ford would use Dorman parts as original equipment.
View 4 RepliesI bought a 2011 F350 that was in a collision. I have done collision repair before but I have not had to deal with air bags... Both driver wheel and passenger bags deployed. I see some for sale on EBAY for around 300 used....do I just by them and install them? Is there a reset or something else I have to do? I see some sell them with the controller as well...do I need that?
View 14 RepliesI have an 11 F350 6.7. It has just under 200K miles on it. Yesterday I changed the oil. Very uneventful. Today however, I was driving home, about 100 miles, and my truck's temp spiked. Not like a little spike, but jumped to the 3/4 mark(if there was one) then slowly kept rising to to the overheat mark. I pulled off onto the hard shoulder waited an hour or so to let it cool down, then finished the drive home. All the way home my temp gauge seemed like it was on some sort of drug. It would jump a needle width when I would have to accelerate, then slowly cool to normal after I got up to cruising speed.
When I got home I checked the oil level and it was spot on in the "normal" range. I haven't used a different type/brand/weight of oil in the last 100k miles. Did something just give out on my truck? I had the coolant flushed and replaced at the dealer within the last 10k miles. Up until this point this truck has been exceedingly reliable. I pull a 13k 5th wheel once a month and drive about 40k-ish miles a year.
My truck all of the sudden started overheating when running idle or at low speeds. No towing or anything with 89 degrees outside it can hit max water temp in matter of 2 minutes once at running temperature and standing on red light. I checked the coolant level - looks good and changed the thermostat just in case, but the problem is still happening. The fan is running/kicking in as well when it gets hot.
I'm waiting for OBD2 plug to read the stats from the computer, but what else would you suggest I can check for issues ? Oil temp gets to about 222 and transmission to about 194, but it doesn't keep on increasing. One another thing I noticed is that when I have AC running it will actually pop a overheating message on the display (I don't continue to drive it at that point) and when it gets hot it seems as if it didn't have much power.
I don't know if this is connected, but about two months ago it started blowing black smoke when starting from red light or stop sign or when accelerating with gear reduction. It is a 6.7 diesel one and only has 60k miles on it, so I'm hoping its nothing major.
I have a 2011 F350 with the towing package. I got it used as it and it was a northern truck. My towing mirrors won't extend in or out. They fold and unfold just fine. When I press the button to telescope them I can hear the motor running so I know the fuse is good. I took the glass off the mirrors and scraped some salt out of the joints. I sprayed some lube on the joints as well but still no luck. I also tried forcing them but not too much to avoid breaking them.
View 1 RepliesI have a 2011 F350 with camper package (didn't want it). When I drive on a bumpy road (without 5th wheel), the truck suspension does not absorb the shock. The ruts just throws the truck side to side. Really hard, so I can't go on a dirt, rough road. On one bump it poped off my rear tire cap.
My problem may be with the camper package trying to keep the truck from going back and forth.
There is a 7/16 inch steal rod going from the truck bed, around the differential, and back up to the other side of the truck. Is that the rear stablizer rod?? Can I disconnect it? What would be
2011 F350 with fluid leaking in through the firewall. Does the Hydro booster have to be replaced or is there a gaskets or seal on the rod that goes to the brake pedal?
View 14 RepliesI feel a vibration and hear a rattle/grinding noise intermittently in the front driver or passenger floorboard only when the truck is cornering AND starting uphill or downhill. The vibration lasts a second or two and seems to be directly related to throttle/rpm acceleration while cornering and not something just loose and clunking around.
Dealer could not reproduce but it just happened again yesterday a couple of times in city traffic after dealer inspected and greased front end zirks.
What should I be looking for and how would you go about getting this resolved? It started happening in the last couple of months and never made a sound prior. Truck is in year 4 of 6 year warranty so I want to tackle now, but I need better understanding of problem.
what is the best computer chip for a 2011 F-350 to get better gas mileage?
View 4 RepliesI have a 2011 F-350 6.2L that has extremely hard shifts from 3 to 4 going up and 2 to 1 going down. Sometimes on downshifts it feels like something has ran into the back of the truck. I had the computer updated when the truck had approximately 40,000 miles on it and he assisted a little bit. The truck now has 140,000 miles and it is back to shifting horribly. I put it in the shop at the dealer on 30 December 2013. The dealer says that the problem is that the shift solenoids need to be replaced but that they are not available. The truck is still sitting at the dealer and I am being told that the parts should be available mid February.
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