Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2011 F350 - Anti-lock Brakes Come On When Turning
Apr 11, 2015
I have a 2011 F350, with a 4 inch Rancho Suspension lift. Ever since the lift kit was installed, more commonly when turning to the left than right, the anti lock brakes come on and the traction control light comes on/flashes. without even stepping on brake pedal.
It seems to happen when the wheel is at about 80% of max turning, about 15mph. Both wheel hubs and sensors have been replaced. road tested with Ford tech , he watched the speed sensor input while hooked to the computer and all sensor are reading correctly.
Today I went in a constant circle and can make it do it non stop, and when you try to press the brake pedal while the anti-lock (grinding/chattering) noise is happening, it only gets louder.
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I have a 2011 F350 Lariat diesel crew cab. All of a sudden my remote start will not work, sometimes i can do it 5 times and it will finally but most of the time I just hear a lot of clicking noises in the engine like relays or something. Also when I exit my vehicle, if I use either the key fob or the outside keypad on the door to lock the vehicle, the stereo system turns on and stays on. When I open the door it shuts off. The only other thing that might be related is the other day when I put my windshield wipers on, the worked in super super slow-motion, stopped and then started again but at like 1/4 of the normal speed.
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Problems my truck seems to be having for one thing sometimes when I'm going thru the gears (6 speed manual) the truck won't wind up all the way it's like it is rev limiting at about 2000 RPMS, been doing that for a while , it does that most of the time but not always. Problem #2 the anti lock lite stays on in the cluster, and just yesterday the service engine soon lite is now on, my truck is a 1999 F250 7.3 6speed manual with 77000 miles on it ...
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2011 F-350 XL, I can hear a squeal coming from the front brakes when rolling forward slowly, believe the pads are dragging on the rotors. If I touch the brake pedal the squeal stops as it does when I turn the wheel. Took the calipers off and greased the slide pins and put it all back together, still got the squeal. What don't I know???
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I just purchased an F-350 with manual locking hubs. I am unsure if I can keep these locked in for part time four wheel driving or I need to unlock them each time I go back to two wheel drive?
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Installing a Pop N Lock on a 2016? What were the wire colors you tapped into?
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Got a problem with my F350 diesel truck's braking system. I pull a 5th wheel and last trip almost burned my breaks up coming down long hill due to having no breaks on the 5th wheel. Had a problem early on with the lack of trailer brakes and module was replaced under warranty. Bought a new module this time and it did not fix the problem. Have braking power when I use the module brakes (Hand) but not when I hit the foot brakes. Have checked the system with a meter and have good voltage with hand break but not with foot brakes. Have a good meter (voltage) read with hand breaks and faint read with foot brakes applied. Also have a faint pulsing read on test light with no brakes at all just key on.
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On my 2007 f350 when I hit my brakes it pulsates... So I put new rotors and brakes up front.. The pins are good and the calibers are good... put it all back together and still the same thing... the slower you go the slower the pulsating gets... And I can actually feel the pedal move in and out when it does it... I'm lost....
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I'm having trouble finding the source of a vibration in the front end if my 1999 f350 super duty 4x4. The vibration is felt all the time but worse when under 40mph, while braking, and especially when turning.
I have replaced the rotors and brakes, tie rods and Drag links since the issue started but no change. In the vibration. What should I check next?
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When in 4x4 and I go to do a 90 deg turn. The steering wheel pushes back to straight and seems like I have to fight it to turn the wheels. What could be causing this? I was in 4x4 Low on a dirt road at first then stopped, put it in Neutral, and turned it back to 4x4 High and then when turning in a parking lot it started doing this.
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How to turn off the passenger airbag on my 2005 f350? Also any info about using Alex pepers OBD scanner on this vehicle? I have a three way interface but cannot get it to work.
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My 2005 has the ESOF system which has worked flawlessly. Recently I had upper and lower ball joints done and after that repair I had no auto locking hubs. ( independent shop messed up seal install ) they redid the job and it now seems like my front hubs are locking automatically because I am getting binding while turning. So this is the problem.. the front wheels do not "pull" only the rear wheels spin. If I manually lock the hubs I have 4x4 and can get out of being nearly stuck and everything works normally. What is wrong here? Does the shop need to redo the job again?
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Ok, it's cold out... is there a way that I can use my factory key fob to lock and unlock the doors with the truck running? 2000 F350.
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2000 f350 7.3 Door locks unlock and lock constantly. Wait to start light and 4x4 lights don't come on. Gauges stopped working and clicking behind dash.
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Came out to start my truck today a hit the key and got nothing. After I settled down from being upset about my truck already giving me trouble (bought it in Nov and had 25k miles on it, 35k now) and that I should have stayed with a Chevrolet, I was able to start it by crawling under and jumping the started with a screwdriver. The truck started up no problem and got me home where I did some troubleshooting. Looks like I dont get solenoid power at the starter (just main power), the relays and fuses checked out, anhe d it looks like the key is still programmed.
I had been getting what seamed like a delayed start every now and again that was going on for a while, but thought it was just me. The next items I thought that may be the culprit are the neutral safety switch or the ignition switch. The gear selector seams to work fine and it wont start in either P or N, the backup camera turns on and nothing seams to be incorrectly working on that account. Also, the truck is a 2011 F350 Crew Cab 4wd Lariat with the 6.2 gas motor.
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I have a 2007 F350 XLT, Super Cab, chassis cab, V-10, 4x4. I ordered it new, it now has 97,000 miles. It is equipped with a 9' aluminum flatbed. I tow it behind my motorhome and also carry a truck camper (not when towing it!).
I don't think the front brakes are working 100%. I have 2 sets of wheels and tires (19.5s for hauling the camper). Every time I change over, I check the brake pads for wear. Over the first 80,000 miles there was very little wear on the rear pads. In 2014 I had almost a complete brake failure while traveling. I took it to a Ford dealer, and they determined the brake booster was bad. They replaced the booster and flushed the brake system. I didn't think the brakes felt right afterward, but I carried on. By 95,000 miles, the rear brakes were worn out. I feel like the rear brakes are doing most of the stopping now, thus wearing out much faster than they were.
I just ordered a set of service manuals for the truck (9.5 years late on that!) hoping to figure out something. I like the truck, it meets my needs, and I hope to keep it quite a while longer. I took it in to the local dealer to replace a leaking rear pinion seal. They found and replaced the worn pads. I trust them to the extent that the pads were worn, as I had already noticed an acceleration in wear. Local dealer that replaced the pads has no idea what could be up. They did clean and lube the front calipers at the same time, but I noticed no difference in brake feel. Stopping power is definitely worse than before the brake failure/ booster replacement.
What might cause this? The only things that come to my mind is a problem with the proportioning valve or maybe the master cylinder. I don't know much about the details of the ABS system. Is there anyway that might be causing the issue? I would rather not just start throwing parts at the problem...
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We have a 1994 350 ford dually. the brake light and the abs light came on and it has no brakes. replaced the master cylinder ... still no brakes. what next?
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I have a 99, F-350, V-8 &.3 Diesel, 6 speed with 2 WD. Is there a way to temporarily lock both rear wheels to obtain better traction in the snow?
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1997 Super Duty 7.5 has a horrible "whine" when turning the wheels or hitting the brakes. Weird thing is, when I have the front end jacked up it goes almost completely away when turning the wheels. It is still there, and just as loud when I hit my brakes, but the brakes never were as loud as it was when I turned the wheels. I am guessing it is something to do with the steering gear or tie rod ends or something that I have absolutely 0 experience with....
More info on the problem: PS pump was always a bit noisy, but after the truck sat for a while (around a year, drove it every couple months for a few miles) it was ridiculous, so i replaced the pump, cycled all the old ATF out, made sure I had good pressure coming all the way back to the pump, several times. Never ran it dry.
The steering wheel (with wheels on the ground) kicks back on me and has a LOT of play in it before the PS pump kicks in and starts screaming. Jack the front end up, steering is nice and tight, no play, noise is there a BIT (with the hood up and cap off the PS pump) I would imagine under normal driving conditions i probably wouldn't even hear it much, if at all.
With my very limited mechanic knowledge I would assume that something is making it very hard for my wheels to turn, which is straining my PS pump, but what!?!?!?!?
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I bought a 2011 F350 that was in a collision. I have done collision repair before but I have not had to deal with air bags... Both driver wheel and passenger bags deployed. I see some for sale on EBAY for around 300 used....do I just by them and install them? Is there a reset or something else I have to do? I see some sell them with the controller as well...do I need that?
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I have an 11 F350 6.7. It has just under 200K miles on it. Yesterday I changed the oil. Very uneventful. Today however, I was driving home, about 100 miles, and my truck's temp spiked. Not like a little spike, but jumped to the 3/4 mark(if there was one) then slowly kept rising to to the overheat mark. I pulled off onto the hard shoulder waited an hour or so to let it cool down, then finished the drive home. All the way home my temp gauge seemed like it was on some sort of drug. It would jump a needle width when I would have to accelerate, then slowly cool to normal after I got up to cruising speed.
When I got home I checked the oil level and it was spot on in the "normal" range. I haven't used a different type/brand/weight of oil in the last 100k miles. Did something just give out on my truck? I had the coolant flushed and replaced at the dealer within the last 10k miles. Up until this point this truck has been exceedingly reliable. I pull a 13k 5th wheel once a month and drive about 40k-ish miles a year.
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