I was running tire chains on my front end and broke the wires going to the wheel (I know ,not smart) . Immediately Service AdvanceTrac, Hill Descent fault, ABS light came on. I took it in to a shop and they repaired the wires but lights are still on and won't clear. Buttons on the dash wont work either. Messed up the sensors maybe?
View 1 RepliesWell when it rains it pours. As I was picking up my truck from the dealer for the brake master cylinder issue I noticed some faults come up on the display as I got into my truck. It was a Hill Descent Control Fault and a Service AdvanceTrac warnings on the dash. I told the service write about them and had already cleared them thinking it was a fluke alert from the servicing they did. Well they have come back in and after some searching I hear that when we get these alerts the solution was Ford having to replace the entire steering rack??!!
View 5 RepliesHad these 2 warning lights show up this morning for no reason. What does it mean? Truck drove fine to work. Guess a trip to the service dept is in the future.
View 2 RepliesMy F250 is displaying error messages for the hill descent/advance trac yet again. My truck was in the shop over 7 times about 6 months ago when my instrument cluster would go crazy. Every warning possible on the display, and once you killed the engine it wouldn't start until the dealer cleared the codes...once they flew in an engineer he fixed it within a couple hour timeframe, and I thought that nightmare was over.
View 2 RepliesI've looked at this 10 ways to Sunday, but the play on words have me questioning if it is the same thing. My truck says Tire Pressure Monitor Fault. I have a 2011 F350, if that makes a difference. I checked all my tires, they are about 80psi each, front and back. What could be the problem? Is it something to take to a Ford Dealer or something I can fix myself?
View 7 RepliesSo I scored a real deal on a set of Michelin on same size 17" OEM wheels that were taken off a brand new 2017 F-250 at about 100 miles. I installed them on my F-350 and had no faults show up. The tires had been marked as to which corner they had come off of so I put them on the same corners of my truck.
After driving about 50 miles I got a "Tire Pressure Monitor Fault" code. I pulled out my owner's manual and followed the relearning procedure exactly but I get the two beeps and the fail retry message from the left front. I have tried three times and get the same result.
Looking for info if the 2017 F-250 sensors are compatible with the 2011 F-350? Have I overlooked something? I habitually manually check my tires anyway, is there a way to disable the TPMS? Is it time for the dreaded trip to the dealer?
I own a 2012 F350 dually King Ranch with 6,600 miles on it as of today. I noticed that on slight inclines, I can see and feel the hill start assist feature activating and working as before. I was not towing anything today. Starting today though, I hear this loud creaking noise both in forward and reverse directions with quite a bit of shutter from front of the truck lasting one to two seconds as I transition from the brake to accelerator. I checked the front hubs to make sure that they are not in locked position. I tried activating 4WD auto mode, then deactivate it to 2WD mode as I watched the diagram/figure on the dashboard. Nothing would make the loud creaking noise and shutter go away. Is there anything else I can try, or should I take it back to my Ford dealer again (now for another different reason. I had problem with injector #8 failure with CEL come on earlier this week which appears to be fixed for now)???
View 13 RepliesJust got larger tires on my truck and tire pressure monitor light is on. How would I go about resetting this?
View 14 RepliesI own a 2011 F350 dually with the 6.7 in it. It has 136000 on it and zero mods. I was driving over the weekend and the traction control light, brake light, and the ABS lights all came on and the information center displayed Check Brake System. We were towing our 5th wheel when this happened. The brakes on the pickup and trailer both work and we have no problems stopping. About every 15 minutes or so this message pops up and it chimes again. My insight is reading a U0418 code. We are stopped now and the code and alert message is still popping up without the trailer. All fluid levels are where they should be.
We are also getting a check engine light and my Insight is reading the codes P2020 and P20E8.
I can reset the codes dealing with the reductant leakage and low pressure, but not the codes dealing with the brake system.
I have had my pickup in to 2 different ford dealers for these issues and they cannot find anything wrong. I did notice that this time when the Check Brake system warning appeared that the pick up started lunging a bit, we lost power to the stereo and the windshield wipers came on. Our fuel mileage has remained the same and the pickup still tows like a beast.
I'm getting a random 'no start' fault which I think is related to a clutch position switch. The dealer tells me the clutch pivot bushing and master cylinder push rod are worn out, which is causing the switch not to close when the clutch pedal is depressed.
1993 F-350 7.3L Diesel 5 Spd 4x4, Std Cab, 8 Box.
Just got a new-to-me 2006 F350 Super Duty XL with the 5.4L V8 and 5-speed auto. I haven't had a full-size truck in a few years and forgot what I was missing!
When I bought the truck, all gauges were inoperative except for the fuel and oil pressure gauges. The previous owner told me they would work intermittently and at some point just stopped. The usual warning lights - ABS, CEL, and "the wrench" - were all lit, and from Googling and searching this forum, it looked like an easy fix - probably a pinched or frayed shifter wire, or possibly a cluster repair.
I took it home and did a self test on the gauges. The "sweep gauges" made everything swing fine, so I was thinking it might not be a problem in the cluster. I pulled the steering column apart, removed the Tow/Haul overdrive wire from the plastic retainer, re-ran it with some slack, taped the end where it comes out of the shifter (even though I saw no breaks/frays) cleaned the connections, gave it a dollop of dielectric grease in the connector, and put it all back together. VOILA - GAUGES and no warning lights! You can imagine the touchdown dance in the driveway.
Fast forward a few weeks and....back to no gauges and warning lights lit. Figuring the overdrive wire had finally given up, I ordered and installed a replacement shifter figuring it was an easy and cheap fix. No joy - same problem. Tried cleaning and reseating the connection. Nothing. I've searched FTE like mad and it seems like 95% of the problems are with the wire exiting the shifter fraying and/or blowing a fuse, but this is a new shifter. I've also checked fuses #2, #24, #33, #36, #41, and #45 (some referenced #19 but I don't have a fuse there). All were unbroken - just put them back in and reseated firmly. I did a code pull via OBD2 and have a "rear catalytic efficiency degraded" code...not sure if that's related, but figured I just had an exhaust issue.
I may take the dash cover off and try to clean and reset the connections on the gauge cluster, as well as do the same for the PCM. Is it possible that the tow/haul overdrive wire to the PCM (where the shifter connects to) is bad? How to test and/or replace if it comes up bad?
I have a 2000 F350 7.3 4x4. It began giving intermittent tow/haul flashing light, when going up or down hill but would clear and drive next time truck was cycled off/on. No ABS lights and code reader generated P0720 for the output speed sensor, now I can get it to generate just driving slowly fwd and rev a few times. All of this has been in the last few days.
Truck will stall if I take it up a slight incline with the fault. I replaced the sensor on the top front of the 4r100 transmission and also replaced the sensor on the rear differential after giving up on looking for an output sensor on the transmission. I know the 2WD transmissions have an output sensor but is there one on the 4WD version? I have read several past threads discussing the P0720. I am hoping to confirm what sensor I need to be looking at and where it is located in this application.
I have been reading several past post regarding the misfire while in OD and going up a small hill with light acceleration around 45 to 55 mph. Everything points to the COP so I replaced it today. Still getting the code after 20 minutes of driving around. My truck shudders and looses power. I can either let up on the throttle or hammer down on it to eventually smooth it out and everything goes back to normal.
Check engine light flashed but didn't stay on. My scanner does report misfire on cylinder 7 (P0307). Haven't owned this truck very long so I don't know much of it's history except OASIS report shows nothing alarming. Guess next step is a new set of plugs.
Another first today, is the tachometer is stuck at 4500 rpm. Shut the truck off and let it sit for an hour, then went back to start and tach. acts like 4500 is the new zero and running engine at 1000 rpm now indicates 5500. 2007 F250 SD 5.4 ....
Came out to start my truck today a hit the key and got nothing. After I settled down from being upset about my truck already giving me trouble (bought it in Nov and had 25k miles on it, 35k now) and that I should have stayed with a Chevrolet, I was able to start it by crawling under and jumping the started with a screwdriver. The truck started up no problem and got me home where I did some troubleshooting. Looks like I dont get solenoid power at the starter (just main power), the relays and fuses checked out, anhe d it looks like the key is still programmed.
I had been getting what seamed like a delayed start every now and again that was going on for a while, but thought it was just me. The next items I thought that may be the culprit are the neutral safety switch or the ignition switch. The gear selector seams to work fine and it wont start in either P or N, the backup camera turns on and nothing seams to be incorrectly working on that account. Also, the truck is a 2011 F350 Crew Cab 4wd Lariat with the 6.2 gas motor.
Is there some sort of reset to turn off the Check Engine light? I had replaced the TPS sensor, and after a day the engine seems to have stopped the high idle and returned to normal, and now it still has the check engine with the same error code, but the problem seems to be resolved. My previous post: [URL] .....
View 14 RepliesI bought a 2011 F350 that was in a collision. I have done collision repair before but I have not had to deal with air bags... Both driver wheel and passenger bags deployed. I see some for sale on EBAY for around 300 used....do I just by them and install them? Is there a reset or something else I have to do? I see some sell them with the controller as well...do I need that?
View 14 RepliesI have an 11 F350 6.7. It has just under 200K miles on it. Yesterday I changed the oil. Very uneventful. Today however, I was driving home, about 100 miles, and my truck's temp spiked. Not like a little spike, but jumped to the 3/4 mark(if there was one) then slowly kept rising to to the overheat mark. I pulled off onto the hard shoulder waited an hour or so to let it cool down, then finished the drive home. All the way home my temp gauge seemed like it was on some sort of drug. It would jump a needle width when I would have to accelerate, then slowly cool to normal after I got up to cruising speed.
When I got home I checked the oil level and it was spot on in the "normal" range. I haven't used a different type/brand/weight of oil in the last 100k miles. Did something just give out on my truck? I had the coolant flushed and replaced at the dealer within the last 10k miles. Up until this point this truck has been exceedingly reliable. I pull a 13k 5th wheel once a month and drive about 40k-ish miles a year.
I have a 2011 F350 with the towing package. I got it used as it and it was a northern truck. My towing mirrors won't extend in or out. They fold and unfold just fine. When I press the button to telescope them I can hear the motor running so I know the fuse is good. I took the glass off the mirrors and scraped some salt out of the joints. I sprayed some lube on the joints as well but still no luck. I also tried forcing them but not too much to avoid breaking them.
View 1 RepliesI have a 2011 F350 with camper package (didn't want it). When I drive on a bumpy road (without 5th wheel), the truck suspension does not absorb the shock. The ruts just throws the truck side to side. Really hard, so I can't go on a dirt, rough road. On one bump it poped off my rear tire cap.
My problem may be with the camper package trying to keep the truck from going back and forth.
There is a 7/16 inch steal rod going from the truck bed, around the differential, and back up to the other side of the truck. Is that the rear stablizer rod?? Can I disconnect it? What would be
2011 F350 with fluid leaking in through the firewall. Does the Hydro booster have to be replaced or is there a gaskets or seal on the rod that goes to the brake pedal?
View 14 RepliesI feel a vibration and hear a rattle/grinding noise intermittently in the front driver or passenger floorboard only when the truck is cornering AND starting uphill or downhill. The vibration lasts a second or two and seems to be directly related to throttle/rpm acceleration while cornering and not something just loose and clunking around.
Dealer could not reproduce but it just happened again yesterday a couple of times in city traffic after dealer inspected and greased front end zirks.
What should I be looking for and how would you go about getting this resolved? It started happening in the last couple of months and never made a sound prior. Truck is in year 4 of 6 year warranty so I want to tackle now, but I need better understanding of problem.