Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2011 F250 Won't Start In Hot Weather
Apr 20, 2015
My 2011 F-250 diesel will not start when it gets to be about 85 to 90 degrees. In cold weather (I live in South Florida, so by "cold" I mean 50 to 70 degrees) it starts up just fine and gives no problems whatsoever. However once the summer months hit it more often than not it will not start. I've taken it to the local Ford dealer and when they run diagnostics it doesn't report any problems. I admittedly don't use the truck very often and it will at times sit for a couple months without use. Could that be a cause of the problem? What the problem might be?
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Noise question. I have a 2011 super duty f250 xlt, and my question is I have a grinding noise that does not sound metallic and only shows up when its below freezing, only in drive and for about 50 yards.
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My 2011 F-250 just started having a weird heater problem. My truck heater gets up to temp just fine but after cruising down the highway for about 15 minutes or so it starts blowing out cool air. I can turn the controls to defrost and back again and it blows warm, not hot but warm then cool again. It just started a couple of days ago. Temp gauges show normal temp also.
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I have a 2011 F250 with the 6.2 gas engine. I have been having a problem that the dealership says there is nothing they can do and have never heard about.
After the truck sits all night I get in and drive it for 10-15 min. It gets warm and I get out turning it off. When I come back about 15-45 min later I start it up and go to leave. As I pull out and start to accelerate in first gear the truck goes to an idle for about 2-3 seconds. I push the gas pedal and get no response. After a couple of seconds it picks up wherever you have the gas pedal. If you have the pedal to the floor it jumps you forward. This is not putting on any lights and the computer is not throwing any codes. According to the dealership the computer is telling them there is nothing wrong.
This has happened 12 times in the past 6 months. It has happened since I bought the truck. I have just started documenting it as of 6 months ago. It is not something I can make it do on command. After it happens once it doesn't seem to do it again for a week or two. I have 31000 miles on the truck. The dealership has had it for 4 days now and can't seem to get it to happen for them.
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Just picked up my F250 a few days ago and it's been great up until yesterday when I hopped in to start her up and nothing. It's a brand new battery and all lights worked, but the dash was dead. I attempted in vain for an hour or so to diagnose as to why this was happening and just happened to open the door with the key in the ignition and hit the door lock button....all of a sudden the truck starts beeping and the message on the dash said "to disable alarm start vehicle". I turned the key, the dash lighted up and away I went. What I may have done to cause this or has it happened to you? I'm thinking it's something with the key fob but not sure.
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I picked up my 05 F350 dually 5 speed w/ the 6.0 powerstroke motor in august... It only had 38k on it when I bought it... its got 43K miles on it now...
Ran great in the warm weather but ever since it got cold out its been a struggle. It was running rough on the way home and kept stalling while i was driving it.. (acting like it was starving for fuel).
I went and replaced both fuel filters and started the truck... let it warm up and it stalled while sitting in my drive way and haven't been able to start it since...
I have fuel additive in it but since I don't drive it all the time (maybe 3 times a week for 30 miles) could it be possible that the fuel is gelling?
I was going to check the EGR valve tonight...
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I have a 2011 f250 6.7 and I have a very bad vibration between 40-50 that seems to peak around 45-47. It also starts again at 80+ . the dealer told me they could not find a problem. Then another told me its normal. The tire shop around here told me the tires were shot so I bought new tires. No luck. It does not affect it if I change gears.
2011 f250 4x4 6.7 SWB. 140,000 miles
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I own a 2011 f-250 superduty, and have been having a problem with the steering, it goes from normal to lost of assist. Real hard to steer and dangerous. Then it will go away for a month, then start again. Some one on this site told me to flush the system which I did and it was fine for a month. A friend at a local ford dealer told me they had contamination in the system and I had to replace pump, reservoir, and flush system again....
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Bought my 2011 F250 6.2L brand new and have had issues with it accelerating since new. I had it in once and they replaced the mass air I believe.
When I merge onto the highway for example and give it some good gas (not really stomping on it) it down shifts and pauses like it trying to figure out what gear it wants to be in, then it picks a gear and the RPM's rev high, but then sometimes it will do the same thing again and then finally take off. If I completely lay into the throttle, it revs high and drops into a gear, then comes back out and drops into another gear, then does it yet again.
Not a fun situation to be in when big rigs are barreling down on you in the right lane! I work 6 days a week and a lot of doubles, so my one day off is usually spent running errands and dropping my truck off all day with the possibility of leaving it for two days just isn't viable, so I hate to bring it in for them to tell me it's fine.
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Love my '11 f250 SD 4WD CC SB. 6.2 with 3.73 e-locker. I've got 5 Star tunes in it, and the truck is a joy to drive empty, and tows my current 7k camper fine, though on steep inclines I wish I had the 4:30 gears.
Well, we just bought a bigger trailer, dry weight is an addtl 2400+ at 9400, so I'll need to do something.
I don't want a different truck, don't want (another trouble-prone) diesel. I think with 4:30s and the tune, I should be fine towing that trailer (with gear and passengers, probably 11-11.5k loaded). Not doing mountains here, just Michigan hills.
What's the best way to "do" a gear swap? I know if I buy a set of gears and a shop screws Em up, it's gonna whine/hum and still cost 2k to do (truck is 4wd)
I'm up in the boonies and finding a shop to swap the gears will be a problem. Getting Em done right will be even MORE trouble.
Can I just find 4:30 axles ans have them swapped (anything in t-case or sensors need to be touched?). I don't care if I lose the e-locker, I never use it.
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So two weeks ago I had a battery melt on me and I replaced it. Then last week I had the other battery almost blow up on me (it was a mess and smoking). I didnt use it all weekend. Today it started right up. I drove it like 500 feet and it just died. It is very weird. Both batteries are fully charged. Relay is good. When I put in the key it does nothing. No sound no radio no clicking. However, the gps still works (the online monitoring kind). I can fold in my out revie mirrors. And I can lock and unlock the doors. and the interior overhead lights come on. Nothing else has power at all. And I can't put it in neutral. Right now the truck is blocking my driveway so nothing can get in or our of here. I am wondering if it is some type of antitheft issue...
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While cleaning the door handles the switch to extend and retract the side view mirrors hung was depressed and evidently got stuck as it was still pressed in. My hope is that this just blew a fuse and not burn up anything. The mirrors still fold and can be adjusted just not extended. Is there a fuse specific for this that may be blown?
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I have a 2011 6.7L F-250 with the stock 17" rims and need new tires. Would 285/75/17's will fit without modification or rubbing?
The stock tires were 265/70/17 and were too small. I have 285/65/18's on there now without rubbing, but it is close. Going back to the 17" rim with a taller tire makes me a little nervous, as I can't check them before purchasing.
I do not want to have any rubbing or have to do any modifications (lift, spacers, etc...). I would like to keep the vehicle stock.
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The third brake light (on cab) went out and I can't seem to find which bulb to get to replace it. Are they the same as the 2 Taillight bulbs on the bed?
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2011 250 run fine when parked it Friday jumped in it Monday morning got a check traction control light on will not shift out of park no break lights replaced break switch all fuses are good.
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I have a 2011 F250 with ac problems. When you start it in the morning and turn the ac on it only takes a small amount of time for the air to start cooling. If you turn the truck off then start it again after driving to town the ac blows hot air out up to 4 minutes (yes I timed it) before it starts cooling. I took it to a local repair shop and the first time they said it only had half the freon it needed. The charged it and off I went. Same problem. The second time they informed me the fan clutch was not engaging and replaced it. I picked it up and the first time it was turned off and back on it had the same problem. I am scheduled to take it back to the same repair shop on Monday.
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2011 f250 gas 4x4... I bought last year with 65k miles, now has 105k. sometimes when accelerating it slips for a second like a manual would if you jabbed the clutch while pulling. I had the 100k trans flush done. I noticed it a couple times before but more frequent recently. How concerned should i be?
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How to disassemble the power fold mirrors on my 2011 F250.
The mirrors work in every way except they will not fold in or out. You can hear the motor start but then stops right away. It does not sound like the gear is stripped just that the motor is stuck some home. It happened to both mirrors about the same time.
I was going to take one apart and see if there is a issue. I can't see there being a electrical issue, but maybe, since the driver side starts then stops within 1 second. It's hard to tell about the passenger side since the switch is on the drivers side.
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Just bought this pickup is a 2011 F250 xl with the 6.2l. The service 4x4 flashes on the dash. The 4x4 shift motor fuse blows instantly when replaced even with the vehicle off. I then went and disconnected the plug ins from the shift motor and tried a new fuse and it blew again. Not sure where to go from here.
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So yesterday I drove across town and back to pick up a piece of lawn equipment. About a 30 min hwy drive each way. On the way there I was in stop and go traffic for about 15mins and noticed toward the end the truck would pull hard to the right when stopping hard and sudden. I figure it was my steering. Been having issues with horrible steering since my last alignment and adjusting the caster. Truck wanders, steering feels loose, will not fully recenter, and feels like it binds then releases toward center position. That's a different issue, I assume. I stop on the way to get some cash and everything is normal. Pick up the equipment and drive back. When coming to a stop the truck will pull towards the right and when I suddenly stop it now pulls to the left.
I get home and get out and smell something burning and hot. Grabbed my IR thermometer and hit both front wheels. Passenger is 150f brake rotor is 175f, drive is 280f brake rotor is 580f. So im assuming my caliper seized up or started to stick. I plan to jack up the front and look at the hubs and calipers. Any other test I can do to narrow down the culprit. I am thinking the hoses may be collapsing especially since I had to disconnect and flip them during the lift. Just weird that the hard pull would switch sides if only the drivers was sticking. Could my bad steering and brake issue be related? I have also noticed my braking power has dropped recently. Brake fluid looks good but power steering smells like brake fluid and is orange.
Pulled the tire when I got home today. A little resistance when spinning by hand, more than there should be. Pulled the caliper and greased the slides. Found out my hub is bad so those are on the short list now. Reassembled and had my wife hit the brakes while I spun the tire. Progressively got harder and harder to spin. Was looking at the brake hoses, how much should they move and ''shrink'' when the brakes are applied? Also if I hit the brakes repeatedly while rolling down my drive way the pedal gets harder and the truck doesn't want to stop and the pedal will slowly push all the way to the floor. Now I am just lost at what is causing my braking issue.
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I have a 2011 F250 Lariat, 6.2L V8. The past couple months i have noticed truck jerking/lunging during acceleration in the mornings usually between leaving the house and getting on the highway. Over the last 2 weeks the problem has progressed and seems to last longer. I have tried fuel injector cleaner with no success. This morning was the worst so far and after all this time i finally saw the maintenance "wrench" pop up on the on dash.
This was good news to me hoping that a local shop could read the code. However, when i dropped off my daughter and started back up the "wrench" went away. After warming up the problem seems to go away. This morning was so severe i lost speed and felt like the engine was going to stall.
I feel like this is related to the fuel system (injectors/pump/filter) but also haven't changed the spark plugs yet. My truck has 72,000 miles and otherwise is in good shape. How I should move forward?
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