I have a 2011 f250 6.2 cclb and it shakes around 70 to 75 mph. Not terribly but enough to annoy the crap out of me. Now I have put new tires on it recently, new Rancho 9900 adjustable shocks, I have it aligned regularly and tires rotated and balanced every 5000 miles or so. I have had two dealerships look at and my local shop and they can't see anything visibly wrong with it.
View 7 Replies2014 F250 SuperDuty 6.2L gasser, x-cab long bed work truck. 105k miles, original owner, 1 driver, mostly highway miles, well maintained and super clean truck.
First issue occurred at 83k miles, Aug 2016. Warm summer day climbing I-70 in CO, slightly loaded, and just entered the Eisenhower tunnel (11,150' altitude). Lost power, no RPMs - not running, I put it in N and rolled as far as I could. Hazards on and no-where to pull over, hugging the wall and blocking one lane. Power OK - will crank, no fire. 1/3 tank on the fuel gauge and >100 miles distance to empty on the trip computer. Tunnel rescue shut down traffic and pushed me out into the daylight.
After waiting an hour to fill our paper work for disabling the interstate tunnel I returned to the truck which quickly started. No symptoms, no lights, no codes. Topped off the fuel tank after a easy 15 mile drive downhill. Drove another 800 miles symptom free to my destination and checked it in at the dealer. At this time a check engine light had finally illuminated - PO420. I shared the story of stalling out at highway speeds with the Service Writer. Dealer replaced the cats, confirmed fuel pressure OK, computer condition OK, serviced the trans (at my request).
No symptoms reoccurred during the next 20k miles until last weekend. 105k on the OD now. Heading to Flagstaff, AZ on I-40 in similar conditions. Hot, AC running, climbing in elevation, slightly loaded, running on the bottom 1/3 of the fuel tank... Died while cruising at 79 mph. Well, at least this time I wasn't in a tunnel and had a shoulder to pull off on. Deja-Vu - full power, radio on, no engine lights, gauges normal, fuel reads over 1/4 tank, >100 miles till empty on the trip computer - won't start. Cranks, but no fire. Some sputtering during start attempts must have triggered the next trouble code.
Opened the hood, removed the gas cap, let it vent and cool for about 30-40 mins while I took a walk. Returned to the truck which easily started and let me drive to the next fuel station, 30 miles away. This time the check engine light stayed illuminated. It took 24 gals of fuel. Drove 3 more hours and almost 200 miles without symptoms - check engine light still illuminated keeping me curious and fully alert along the way.
Got the codes pulled at a parts store that was open on Sunday. PO300 & PO301. Random misfires and cylinder 1 misfires. Sounds consistent with poor fuel supply? Spent the rest of the day searching forums for any clue to this highway stalling. All I came up with was to clear the computer - disconnect battery, turn lights on, wait 15 mins, reconnect battery, start engine, apply brake, drive, etc. This and another full tank of gas gave me enough courage to set out on my trip home.
Next occurrence was just outside of Santa Fe, NM. Similar conditions again: Hot day, AC kicking, Interstate travelling about 80mph, slightly loaded, climbing in elevation, fuel tank just below half - stalled out. Repeat previous learned routine. Open hood, vent gas cap, walk it off for 30 mins, return to truck, start it up. Drive to next town and top off with fuel about 30 miles away - only took 16 gals! Made it home 4 hours later without stopping. No repeat symptoms, no check engine lights.
The next day a code - PO420. Catalytic efficiency below threshold.
Quick recap:
6.2L gas engine stalling at hwy speeds.
Cruising between 65-80mph
-Interstate travel - no stops between last fillup and stall.
-Warm weather, AC on
-Running on bottom ~1/2 tank
-climbing in elevation, slightly loaded
To clarify: slightly loaded - no trailer, maybe 1,500 lbs bed cargo, mostly wind drag. The most I have pumped into the fuel tank is 29-30 gals or so. I assume I have the 34 or 35 gal tank. Never seen the calculated "distance to empty" below 40 miles.
My factory-ordered 2016 F250 CC SB 6.2L 4X4 3.73 is about 6 weeks old. Driver and passenger side door rattle noise (in upper back corner) at highway speeds (65-75 mph) has gotten progressively worse over those 6 weeks. See attached video.
Trying to determine if this is caused by:
Door seals: the temperature here in Iowa has dropped from a few weeks in the 90's to the now in the mid-60's.
Could the temperature change have caused the seals to change shape/structure and result in the rattle/noise?
The exterior seal between the front and back doors (attached to front of the back door): mine seems a little loose on top, but nothing that would cause this kind of noise.
I noticed a moaning from the front end a few weeks back and it seems to be slowly getting a little worse. It is only noticeable when I'm accelerating or maintain speed, but as soon as I let off the accelerator and start to decelerate, it goes away. Sometimes, when the truck hasn't been driven for at least a couple hours, I pull away and there is a really noticeable sort of "clunk clunk clunk" but then it goes away and it just moans. I can also hear some noise from the front end at highway speeds, but of course it is hard to hear much else other than engine and road noise from the cab. It's a 2003 F250 with a 7.3 and four wheel drive.
View 8 RepliesMy truck all of the sudden started overheating when running idle or at low speeds. No towing or anything with 89 degrees outside it can hit max water temp in matter of 2 minutes once at running temperature and standing on red light. I checked the coolant level - looks good and changed the thermostat just in case, but the problem is still happening. The fan is running/kicking in as well when it gets hot.
I'm waiting for OBD2 plug to read the stats from the computer, but what else would you suggest I can check for issues ? Oil temp gets to about 222 and transmission to about 194, but it doesn't keep on increasing. One another thing I noticed is that when I have AC running it will actually pop a overheating message on the display (I don't continue to drive it at that point) and when it gets hot it seems as if it didn't have much power.
I don't know if this is connected, but about two months ago it started blowing black smoke when starting from red light or stop sign or when accelerating with gear reduction. It is a 6.7 diesel one and only has 60k miles on it, so I'm hoping its nothing major.
I have a ford f250 with a 5.4l 2v engine and lately it started to shake when it idles. i have changed all the ignition coils and spark plugs, the injector are fine, but i cant seem to pinpoint the problem. the weird thing is that there are no codes. the fuel trim on bank 1 is around -8 and bank 2 is at almost positive 20 and higher.
View 14 RepliesI was driving my 99 f250 superduty and out of no where it sounded like i had blown a tire started to shake for at least 3 or 4 seconds pulled to the side of the road got out and check tires were good, got back on the road with no more problem.
View 1 RepliesI have a 2004 superduty 250 4x4 with the 6.0. I am having a violent shake in the steering wheel mostly and can feel it in throttle at about 45 to 60 and at 72 there is s growel. Have changed tires, wheels checked all ball joints tie rods wheel bearings ujoints. Don't matter brakes on or off, od on or off nothing changes it. I really don't know what else to check.
View 10 RepliesThe other day I pulled into the parking lot put it in park and let it idle for a couple minutes, it stumbled and when I started driving off it was missing. I pulled the valve covers off and check the connection.. I drove it home and it had a bad misfire at 1500 RPMs. The truck shook violently at that RPM but when I got it up over 2000 smooths out..
View 1 RepliesI have an '04 EX with 6.0. When braking at highway speeds the rear end shudders until I get the truck slowed down some. Around town speeds of 45 or less the problem is almost non-existent. It almost seems to be hydraulic instead of pads/rotor issue. Wouldn't a warped rotor show up at slower speeds as well? I have some good mechanics around, but have never found a great brake shop that I can trust. Go in needing pads and they try and upsell saying this or that is going out.
View 9 RepliesWhen my truck is parked, I go to the rear tire and shake it back and forth and hear a slight clunking noise from either the tire or rear end. Its like the axle is making the noise?
2000 7.3 Power Strke Super Crew 4x4
Only 2 speeds of the 4 speeds are working on my blower. I was thinking it may be the switch, but someone at the shop told me to replace the blower resistor first. I did that and still only have 2 speeds. Im guessing I need to replace the switch now?
Also, I am having problems with my heat adjustment. I have it set to warm (half way between cold and hot) and out of the blue it will start blowing hot. I turn it down all the way to cold until it blows cold air and turn it back to warm, and it will be fine for a few minutes and start blowing hot again. Vacuum problem? blend door problem? How would I go about trouble shooting this problem?
Have a 2007 F250 6.0 diesel with the standard issues including misfire at highway speed. Assume the bulletproof kit also cures the stiction problem? in reviewing the threads and looking at the vendors, references are made to fixing the oil cooler issue, egr issue, etc., but no one addresses stiction issue directly.
View 10 RepliesI have a question about my 2001 Ford F250 and the scary road sway I experience on the highway.
I thought it was the garbage and nearly bald tires and the fact that the fronts were bigger than the back, (Previous Owner). I went and got new E rated 265's from Discount Tire.
It actually made the swat feel worse. I thought maybe the tire guys inflated them all to 80 PSI as the sidewalls indicated. I check today and found that they went with the recommended PSI on the door sticker. 60 Front and 80 rear. But this is for the Tire size listed on the sticker.
After the tires cooled here at home I increased the PSI to 80 all the way around. I am having trouble finding my specific problem even though there is a lot of talk in many forums about this issue.
If this does not work should I try lower PSI in the rears and leave the front at 80? Should I try a front steering stabilizer shock? I did tighten up the steering box and took the minor slop out of it, Not is just makes it respond to the sway correction quicker.
At low speeds, I notice a squeel sound in all four wheels. Ford tells me that it is due to the type of metallic pads they use and is essentially brake dust noise that warrants no repair.
Any after market pads that are good quality for towing heavy loads, yet aren't metallic in composition? For instance, are porcelin pads a good choice.
My 2003 Ford F250 V10 seems to have a vibration, sometimes at all speeds and sometimes at freeway speeds. I replaced front hub assemblies and ball joints and rear calipers last year. When braking i have a vibration in rear as well, which I think is from uneven rotor but can it be causing my vibration? Also sometimes I can smell hot brakes from the rear.
View 2 RepliesI have a 2006 f250 and the heater will blow cold air unless you are driving in like highway conditions. If you stop or drive slow it blows cold air only. What is causing this???
View 3 RepliesI have a 2011 f250 6.7 and I have a very bad vibration between 40-50 that seems to peak around 45-47. It also starts again at 80+ . the dealer told me they could not find a problem. Then another told me its normal. The tire shop around here told me the tires were shot so I bought new tires. No luck. It does not affect it if I change gears.
2011 f250 4x4 6.7 SWB. 140,000 miles
I own a 2011 f-250 superduty, and have been having a problem with the steering, it goes from normal to lost of assist. Real hard to steer and dangerous. Then it will go away for a month, then start again. Some one on this site told me to flush the system which I did and it was fine for a month. A friend at a local ford dealer told me they had contamination in the system and I had to replace pump, reservoir, and flush system again....
View 10 RepliesBought my 2011 F250 6.2L brand new and have had issues with it accelerating since new. I had it in once and they replaced the mass air I believe.
When I merge onto the highway for example and give it some good gas (not really stomping on it) it down shifts and pauses like it trying to figure out what gear it wants to be in, then it picks a gear and the RPM's rev high, but then sometimes it will do the same thing again and then finally take off. If I completely lay into the throttle, it revs high and drops into a gear, then comes back out and drops into another gear, then does it yet again.
Not a fun situation to be in when big rigs are barreling down on you in the right lane! I work 6 days a week and a lot of doubles, so my one day off is usually spent running errands and dropping my truck off all day with the possibility of leaving it for two days just isn't viable, so I hate to bring it in for them to tell me it's fine.
Love my '11 f250 SD 4WD CC SB. 6.2 with 3.73 e-locker. I've got 5 Star tunes in it, and the truck is a joy to drive empty, and tows my current 7k camper fine, though on steep inclines I wish I had the 4:30 gears.
Well, we just bought a bigger trailer, dry weight is an addtl 2400+ at 9400, so I'll need to do something.
I don't want a different truck, don't want (another trouble-prone) diesel. I think with 4:30s and the tune, I should be fine towing that trailer (with gear and passengers, probably 11-11.5k loaded). Not doing mountains here, just Michigan hills.
What's the best way to "do" a gear swap? I know if I buy a set of gears and a shop screws Em up, it's gonna whine/hum and still cost 2k to do (truck is 4wd)
I'm up in the boonies and finding a shop to swap the gears will be a problem. Getting Em done right will be even MORE trouble.
Can I just find 4:30 axles ans have them swapped (anything in t-case or sensors need to be touched?). I don't care if I lose the e-locker, I never use it.