Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2011 F250 - Truck Starts Beeping And Disable Alarm Start Vehicle Message Comes On Dash
Apr 18, 2015
Just picked up my F250 a few days ago and it's been great up until yesterday when I hopped in to start her up and nothing. It's a brand new battery and all lights worked, but the dash was dead. I attempted in vain for an hour or so to diagnose as to why this was happening and just happened to open the door with the key in the ignition and hit the door lock button....all of a sudden the truck starts beeping and the message on the dash said "to disable alarm start vehicle". I turned the key, the dash lighted up and away I went. What I may have done to cause this or has it happened to you? I'm thinking it's something with the key fob but not sure.
View 6 Replies
Advertisement
I have a 2002 F250 7.3l with an aftermarket alarm. I can't read what the third letter is on the decal MV? 2000 Modular Vehicle Security. I added a pic of the alarm decal below. The key fob it had was aftermarket for the alarm and stopped working about a year ago. Today I unlocked the drivers door with the key and the lights started flashing and I can hear a clicking sound. It done this a few times back when the key fob still worked and I just kept hitting lock and unlock until it finally stopped. It won't let me start the truck at all and I have tried unhooking the batteries with no luck.
View 4 Replies
I have a 2011 F250 with the 6.2 gas engine. I have been having a problem that the dealership says there is nothing they can do and have never heard about.
After the truck sits all night I get in and drive it for 10-15 min. It gets warm and I get out turning it off. When I come back about 15-45 min later I start it up and go to leave. As I pull out and start to accelerate in first gear the truck goes to an idle for about 2-3 seconds. I push the gas pedal and get no response. After a couple of seconds it picks up wherever you have the gas pedal. If you have the pedal to the floor it jumps you forward. This is not putting on any lights and the computer is not throwing any codes. According to the dealership the computer is telling them there is nothing wrong.
This has happened 12 times in the past 6 months. It has happened since I bought the truck. I have just started documenting it as of 6 months ago. It is not something I can make it do on command. After it happens once it doesn't seem to do it again for a week or two. I have 31000 miles on the truck. The dealership has had it for 4 days now and can't seem to get it to happen for them.
View 2 Replies
My truck was sitting in front of the house, unlocked and the alarm disarmed. For no apparent reason, the alarm on the truck went off. I tried pressing both arm and disarm button on the FOB and the alarm would not shut off. I opened the door, started the engine and the alarm immediately turned itself off. I need to look in the manual and see if there is any condition that would cause that particular event. Strange to say the least.
View 3 Replies
My 08, when I connect my 7-pin trailer up, bouncing down the road that message and tone CONSTANTLY going off....drives me nuts! I have went thru the wire harness 2x now, cleaned all the contacts, etc. Any other thing short of a 12 gauge? When it does pop on, the controller starts flashing...I've reached down a few times and manually hit the brakes and it still hits em so whatever it is, I feel its very minor or whatever....just don't know where to go now! All contacts have been cleaned good as well.
View 8 Replies
For those of you struggling like I was a few minutes ago... Here is a procedure that worked for me.
1. Key ON.
2. Select OK to get rid of OIL CHANGE REQUIRED message.
3. Scroll down to SETTINGS and push OK.
4. Scroll down to VEHICLE and push OK.
5. Scroll down to OIL LIFE RESET and push OK.
6. Scroll to any % other than what you want and push OK.
7. Scroll to what % you want and push OK.
8. Key OFF.
View 1 Replies
I've got an intermittent Trailer Wiring Error message that started appearing with a trailer connected on my '11 F250.
Brakes and lights work OK on the trailer, I thought I had read on the board here that there was a TSB for this, but I cannot find it.
View 10 Replies
I'll try not to post an entire book.. But I bought a 2000 F250 not even 8 months ago, it did have issues before but I changed out the spark plugs and coils and it fixed it's original missing issues.. I also just recently changed the fuel filter but it didn't fix it's new problem.. It drives ok around town but if I get over 35 mph it doesn't run well... If I try to keep a steady foot on the gas but don't get the RPMs over 2000, the RPMs will stay where they're at for just a second then they will drop down and the whole truck starts shaking.. I push more on the gas and it shakes even more and the RPMs don't move at all until I really step on it.. It lacks in power going up hills as well... The dealership i bought it from said the Catalytic Converter was bad but my uncle who is a mechanic says it isn't.. It's the first vehicle I've bought so kinda wanna make it last..
View 11 Replies
Just bought this pickup is a 2011 F250 xl with the 6.2l. The service 4x4 flashes on the dash. The 4x4 shift motor fuse blows instantly when replaced even with the vehicle off. I then went and disconnected the plug ins from the shift motor and tried a new fuse and it blew again. Not sure where to go from here.
View 2 Replies
I am getting this check gas cap warning on the dash. I checked the cap, looks ok... Should I disconnect the battery for a minutes.. and see if it comes back?
View 4 Replies
Well I just bought a 2011F250 6.7 on Friday. The truck has 42000 miles when I picked it up and now has almost 42800 4 days later. I love the truck so far. But anyways its an early build so is there anything I need to look out for? I noticed today I pulled into a parking spot and went to back up and as soon as I put it in reverse the truck shook pretty bad. It did it a few times as I sat there and went from drive to reverse. Is this something that is normal?
View 9 Replies
1-11-11 built F250 with the 6.2. 45K miles. Took it to my local HD truck shop to have the code read. The reader said "Evap pressure sensor switch malfunction", "vac above pressure limit wouldn't bleed". He cleared it and it has now come back.
1. Where is said switch located? Is this something I can do as I'm a seasoned wrench but I'm not dropping the tank in my driveway in the winter.
2. Is it in the tank or outside the tank?
3. Has there been any TSBs or recalls on this before I attempt to repair?
View 6 Replies
We currently have a 2011 F250. During the day time, when you turn on the headlights all the way (not just on "auto"), the dash lights and clock shut off. Originally, I thought that they were just dimmed to the point where you couldn't see them, but the brightness is already turned all the way up on the dash lights. If I turn the brightness up any higher, the dome lights turn on, but the dash and clock remain off. If you return the headlights back to the "off" or "auto" position, the clock and dash return to their normal brightness.
View 4 Replies
Truck was dead- 2001 F250 V10... Has a starter relay (solinoid) behind battery... put a new relay in there- no go- cleaner terminals... then I put key in start and shorted the 2 terminals in the relay and she cranked right up. That would mean the starter is still good correct?? something in the ignition system?
View 1 Replies
I just bought a 2000 F250 SD, 4x4, 5.4, Quad Cab. I drove it off the lot, stopped to put air in the tires, jumped back in and it wouldn't crank. All of the dash lights worked fine. Tried jumping at the starter solenoid and got nothing. Got under the truck and jumped it off the starter, vroom, fired right up. Replaced the starter solenoid and had no issues for about 2 hours. Then it did it again. This time it wouldn't start at all. I towed it back to the dealer and they had it for 3 weeks.
Then yesterday I called and they said it was done. Picked it up, drove to the barber shop, got my hair cut, came back out and it did the same thing AGAIN. After jacking around with the shifter and turning the wheel back and forth 100 times it started. The key is kind of hard to turn sometimes in the ignition, so I'm thinking that the ignition cylinder needs to be lubed real good, but that shouldn't stop it from cranking the motor over, right? I was going to swap out the ignition switch, but I don't know if that will do any good either.
View 3 Replies
I have a 2008 f250 with 5.4v8. The truck starts intermittently. Put key in turn if no dash lights it doesn't even crank or hear a click. If u put key in and turn and dash lights up to starts and runs. U can watch the different lights (instrument cluster) light up independently like a xmas tree. When truck doesn't start if u disconnect battery when touching power wire to battery. Post truck lights will flick on/off if u tap cables to battery and leave on. Lights flicker on/off and then stay off. (Don't know why shouldn't flicker at all) after disconnecting and reconnecting battery truck will or will not start still depends on if dash lights come on before cranking.i replaced battery, starter, alternator, all the ground cable connections and wire cleaned. I haven't replaced the power side but are clean.
View 3 Replies
I have an 08 f250 with 6.4. when ever it rains the truck will not start. None of the gauges will work, door chime doesn't work and the only error light is the airbag light. Lights, radio, turn signals, horn all work. There is no clicking of the starter relay, the truck in dead. There is no water on the floor board nor is the floor moist. If I place a ceramic heater on the driver side floor board and blow hot air towards the firewall the truck will start in about 30 min to an hour depending on how long it sat in the rain. I've removed the air intake vents and there is no debris blocking the drains.
View 3 Replies
Bought a 02 F250 5.4L a few weeks ago. i have replaced the coils and plugs, put in some fresh oil and some other minor things. Last weekend i drove over to my neighbors and back with no issues, until i went back out to start the truck an hour later.
The dash lights come on, but the engine wont start up. i hear a kind of whirring sound coming from a black canister under the hood on the drivers side. I cant use my code reader and I have pretty much exhausted my little piece of diagnostic knowledge. i originally thought it may have been a starter and got a fresh one ready to install but after thing about it i don't feel that's the issue.
I live in a very rural area and bringing it to a dealership would be a 150 mile round trip. What that black canister is? Why it won't start up?
View 5 Replies
I have 1999 f250 powerstroke, batteries are fully charged but when you put key in ignition and turn you get nothing. No dash lights, no crank, nothing. I cleaned the battery terminals on both batteries, checked all the fuses under the dash and the hood.
View 9 Replies
My 2011 F-250 diesel will not start when it gets to be about 85 to 90 degrees. In cold weather (I live in South Florida, so by "cold" I mean 50 to 70 degrees) it starts up just fine and gives no problems whatsoever. However once the summer months hit it more often than not it will not start. I've taken it to the local Ford dealer and when they run diagnostics it doesn't report any problems. I admittedly don't use the truck very often and it will at times sit for a couple months without use. Could that be a cause of the problem? What the problem might be?
View 1 Replies
I have a 2010 F250 V10 4x4. about every 3-4 times when you start the truck....it seems as though the starter "sticks". If I catch it and shut it off and then turn the key right back it fires up and does not stick. Its as if the gear is staying kicked out into the flywheel. Are we thinking the starter itself? I'm thinking starter...but looking for input before I crawl under it.
View 1 Replies
