Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2011 F250 - Service 4x4 Flashes On The Dash
Nov 28, 2015
Just bought this pickup is a 2011 F250 xl with the 6.2l. The service 4x4 flashes on the dash. The 4x4 shift motor fuse blows instantly when replaced even with the vehicle off. I then went and disconnected the plug ins from the shift motor and tried a new fuse and it blew again. Not sure where to go from here.
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I am getting this check gas cap warning on the dash. I checked the cap, looks ok... Should I disconnect the battery for a minutes.. and see if it comes back?
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1-11-11 built F250 with the 6.2. 45K miles. Took it to my local HD truck shop to have the code read. The reader said "Evap pressure sensor switch malfunction", "vac above pressure limit wouldn't bleed". He cleared it and it has now come back.
1. Where is said switch located? Is this something I can do as I'm a seasoned wrench but I'm not dropping the tank in my driveway in the winter.
2. Is it in the tank or outside the tank?
3. Has there been any TSBs or recalls on this before I attempt to repair?
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We currently have a 2011 F250. During the day time, when you turn on the headlights all the way (not just on "auto"), the dash lights and clock shut off. Originally, I thought that they were just dimmed to the point where you couldn't see them, but the brightness is already turned all the way up on the dash lights. If I turn the brightness up any higher, the dome lights turn on, but the dash and clock remain off. If you return the headlights back to the "off" or "auto" position, the clock and dash return to their normal brightness.
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Just picked up my F250 a few days ago and it's been great up until yesterday when I hopped in to start her up and nothing. It's a brand new battery and all lights worked, but the dash was dead. I attempted in vain for an hour or so to diagnose as to why this was happening and just happened to open the door with the key in the ignition and hit the door lock button....all of a sudden the truck starts beeping and the message on the dash said "to disable alarm start vehicle". I turned the key, the dash lighted up and away I went. What I may have done to cause this or has it happened to you? I'm thinking it's something with the key fob but not sure.
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I have a 2011 f250 with the 6.7l diesel. Overall it's been fabulous. Descent mileage, and never ending power. The service engine soon light came on the other day. I have checked the fuel and dropped some additive in the tank. Have also checked the air filter which is good. There is a hesitation when giving it throttle. Then it shoots like a rocket.
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I just bought a 2003 F250 from a used dealer. Unfortunately the service engine light keeps popping on and putting out the code P0401, I have replaced the EGR, cleaned the inside, and cleared the code. However it continues to keep popping up and then it will turn off after a couple of days. I mostly drive in the city and the code generally only pops on when I drive on the highway. I have also noticed a lack or delay of power, when I really hit it hard, I think its because the computer is keeping the egr valve open. What it could be?
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I'm from SC where we are currently getting our rainfall for the next 3 years, so it's an occasion to find leaks. My 2001 F250 has developed one right in the middle of the passenger side dash, I saw it running down a white vacuum tube and dripping off to the floor mat. Is there a place in the cowl that will hold water and leak?
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I have a f250 with 6.8l engine. I can get air thru the defrost and to the floor, but no air thru the dash vents on me. I have traced all vacuum lines and they seem fine.
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2011 F350 6.2L Gas engine. Last fall when I first started using my heat I noticed that the air would only blow through the dash vents. It will not switch over to defrost or floor. I have an XLT I am pretty sure the controls are the basic controls. there are push buttons to change from floor/vent and defrost. I do recall the summer before I had I noticed the problem I would hear a clicking sound in behind the dash. I figured something fell down the defrost vent. I see people who have had this problem on older trucks talking about an actuator. I've looked on ford parts site and I cannot find an actuator listed for the damper door. I was hoping to see what it looks like so I could try and find it in my truck.
I do have the dash pulled apart and I can reach up and manually move a lever that is connected to a cable. and I can change the air outlet to the floor, but I cannot get it to change to defrost. While I have the dash apart I also tried pressing the buttons on the heat control to see if the lever which I am moving by hand is moving at all and it is no. I was thinking if something was stuck in the system I would probably be able to feel the cable at least try to move, but it does not. The white cable which is connected to the lever which I am moving goes into the bottom of the duct work, where it goes from there, but I am assuming some kind of actuator?
This is right in front of the 4x4 shifter
Obviously behind the glove box
With the radio removed
I'm guessing this is 1 of the motors?
I stuck my camera up there to see what was there. This is as far forward as I could go on the drive rside and in front of the 4x4 shifter. You can see the end of the cable I'm assuming that is the door.....
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I have a 2011 f250 6.7 and I have a very bad vibration between 40-50 that seems to peak around 45-47. It also starts again at 80+ . the dealer told me they could not find a problem. Then another told me its normal. The tire shop around here told me the tires were shot so I bought new tires. No luck. It does not affect it if I change gears.
2011 f250 4x4 6.7 SWB. 140,000 miles
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My 99 250 XL only has heat, and the blowthru vent air which in Florida, might as well be heat also. LOL.
Since the vents and everything is there, what all and how hard would It be? I have an extra dash control that I can put since mine doesn't have the ac option on it
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2015 F250 diesel. I am hooking up an air pressure gauge inside the cab to report the pressure on my rear aftermarket air bags. The pressure reading will come from a tap on the actual pressure line, but I need 12vdc to operate the backlight on the gauge. I have found a bundle of loose wires under the steering column, 4 of which are firewall pass-through wires for the upfitter switches. Do one of the remaining wires in the bundle is an accessory power wire? I need a plain key-on accessory wire connection, not a dash-light connection.
I am using one of the upfitter switches to switch my on-board air compressor and a second switch to inflate/deflate the air bags. Want to save the other 2 switches for future use.
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2001 Ford F-250 7.3 Lariat, Crew cab, 8 ft bed. Have had the truck since about 2007 and 4x4 has never worked. It has the typical ford "self rotting" vacuum lines (which have all been replaced along with the hubs themselves). Took it to a mechanic a few years back and he n-word rigged it (for a lack of a better word) and bypassed a lot of vacuum stuff and it still didn't work. The weird part is this-- the 4x4 light is permanently on on the dash, even if the switch is in the 2wd position. Flip the switch and nothing happens. No sounds, nothing. No mechanic can fix it and I have yet to find a forum with someone having the same problem. (Worth manual transfer case swapping it?)
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The light on dash for 4X4 stays on no mater where the switch is placed I have it in 2 wd and it stays on. Where I need to start looking.
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I love my new truck. '15 250 CC SB. It would be nice if when I am backing up not to have the dash lights in my eyes once I turn off the head/parking lights at night. I turn off the head lights so as to make everything darker. Much easier to see what is in my mirrors.
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Ever since I bought this vehicle, the dashboard lights won't light up unless it is totally dark out. For example, yesterday I am driving in heavy rain during daytime (but pretty dark out!) and Autolamp turns on the headlights...but none of the dash lights! I always thought the dash lights should be on if the headlamps are on. Sometimes just the needles light up. How do I know if my lights are actually on if no dash lights are on?
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Bought a 02 F250 5.4L a few weeks ago. i have replaced the coils and plugs, put in some fresh oil and some other minor things. Last weekend i drove over to my neighbors and back with no issues, until i went back out to start the truck an hour later.
The dash lights come on, but the engine wont start up. i hear a kind of whirring sound coming from a black canister under the hood on the drivers side. I cant use my code reader and I have pretty much exhausted my little piece of diagnostic knowledge. i originally thought it may have been a starter and got a fresh one ready to install but after thing about it i don't feel that's the issue.
I live in a very rural area and bringing it to a dealership would be a 150 mile round trip. What that black canister is? Why it won't start up?
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I have 1999 f250 powerstroke, batteries are fully charged but when you put key in ignition and turn you get nothing. No dash lights, no crank, nothing. I cleaned the battery terminals on both batteries, checked all the fuses under the dash and the hood.
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I have a 2001 f250 v10 lariat ext cab. i was going to get wood the other day down a muddy road. My radio went out and all my running lights. i replaced the fuse radio and now the switch. Still nothing. Could it be a bad ground? i ran a jumper wire on my old switch and they worked then just stopped again. if it is a bad ground where would it be located.
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I have a 2005 F250 6.0. Its an XLT Trim but i want the features of a Lariat. would a Dash Swap Work or is it pointless?
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