Made a short run to get lumber yesterday and when I got home the truck smelled hot I checked it out and found a transmission oil leak at the rear of the transmission in front of the transfer case. can not really see what is leaking only has 22,000 miles. What may have happen. 2011 F250 4x4 6.7....
View 14 RepliesWe have a 2000 F250 7.3L Diesel. A few years ago we switched out the auto hubs for manual Warn hubs. We've had no problems with 4x4 since that time, until now!! The 4x4 Hi light is on and the transfer case is engaged. Since the hubs are manual we have them unlocked, however we can't get the 4x4 to disengage. At one point, tried changing to low and it hesitated but finally went in to 4 Lo, then we had a hard time getting it out of 4Lo and back to 4 Hi. Here's what we've tried--checked fuses, checked and replaced relays, checked wiring connection at the transfer case. Husband used volt meter to test power at transfer case wiring connector--showed 0.5 volt of power with the key on. No change in reading. Checked power at relay--about 14.5 volts there. Took truck to repair shop but their computer could not communicate with the GEM.
View 7 RepliesTrying to stay up on my maintenance on my '11 f-350 diesel. It just turned 59k. I can only find Ford's recommended service interval for changing the fluid in the transfer case listed in the "Special Operating Conditions" section of my Scheduled Maintenance Guide for towing, delivery, off-road and dusty conditions at 60,000 miles. I tow some, but maybe 20% of the time, I end up driving a lot of stop and go though.
So I found this nice how to online "Guzzle's Transfer Case Fluid Change" - it's for a 02 heavy duty, is it about the same on the newer diesel trucks?
2001 F250, 7.3L ... After much diagnosis, I've found that the 4 positive feeds to the transfer case relay base have no power to them. The fuse that feeds them (#17 CJB) is fine and when I jump from the fuse hot side directly to the transfer case motor contacts on the relay base, it shifts fine. As far as I can tell, there is only one wire leading from that fuse so there must be a junction block somewhere that splits it into the 4 wires that feed the relay block. I've looked underneath and found nothing. How the 1 wire gets split into 4? On diagrams this junction point is labeled, but I don't know where to find that.
View 2 RepliesI just changed transfer case fluid on my father's F-350 for the first time in 13 years. (over 230k). Removed fill plug first and fluid gushed out of the fill hole unexpectedly. Did not have catch pan ready, so made a mess. I thought it was just over filled form the factory, but too much was coming out to be simple overfill. Almost 2 qt came out of the fill plug.
Did some google search and found many Ford trucks have failed transmission output shaft seal and transmission fluid leaks out to transfer case, causing transfer case to overfill. I am yet to check transmission fluid level, but considering how much came out of it that probably is the case.
Now, how bad of the problem this really is? Will overfilled transfer case cause some serious problem? 4x4 is rarely used (once or twice a year in winter) on this truck and from what I understand transfer case doesn't really do anything in 2WD other than just passing output from transmission through.
There are no fluid leaking outside and repairing the seal would be a too much of work for me.
Also changed rear differential fluid for the first time and I was surprised how clean the fluid was. There were thin layer of black sticky residue (sludge?) covering everything, but the fluid itself looked clean and no visible metal shavings. I guess that is why Ford said it does not require change under normal condition.
For about a week or now i have been trying to track down a sound from my truck, i had another post up and was finally with jhl3 able to determine that the sound is coming from my transfer case. The other thread with video of sound is located here : [URL] .... I've got a little bit of time to mess with i now
Quick rundown, began hearing odd sounds about a week ago, determined that it is transfer case. Front hubs are unlocked, esof switch is set to 2wd. Can not turn front drive shaft. I just put some zip ties on front drive shaft and went for a short spin, determined front drive shaft IS turning. Hubs are not locked and 4x4 is not engaged, did the sharp slow turn test, no feel of pull from front end.
Im not quite sure where to go from here, going to check connections at tcase motor and some relays.
Originally it would light up on the dash, the hubs would lock, but the transfer case would not shift in to 4 wheel. Followed the troubleshooting I've found, was receiving power at the connection on the shift motor but it was not turning.
So I went and bought a new motor, installed it, still wouldn't turn. (with the motor off the transfer case but electrically connected). So I found a few more replies about the relays, swapped them, nothing.
Removed the covers and manually flipped the connection, nothing. Now my hubs are locked, transfer case is not, and I get nothing when I change the switch on the dash. (no lights, no hub click shift, no 4 low, nada). All the fuses are good, just doesn't work.
New floor mats. My truck is going to be 10yr old and has the original King Ranch floor mats. I want some heavy duty rubber ones that will fit around my manual transfer case lever. I ordered the Weathertech digital fit liners and I am not happy with them so they are headed back tomorrow. They have a heavy duty all weather mat but not sure how it will work with my shift lever on the floor. Husky liners/mats look nice and heavy duty but won't accommodate the floor lever.
View 6 RepliesThe transfer case on my 2004 F350 6.0L 4WD DRW, 230K miles, just blew to pieces Sunday night. See images below. What could cause this?
I just had the front drive shaft rebuilt with new universals and ball. It was making a metallic squealing noise after this.
I noticed that the front drive shaft did not spin freely when parked in nuetral and set for 2WD. I thought the front drive shaft would only engage when in 4WD.
Truck is an 03 F350 with the 6.0. It sometimes sounds like the shift motor on the transfer case is trying to engage. It has the vacuum system which is blocked off. Warn aftermarket hubs. Switch on the dash with 2wd, 4wd and 4 low.
It's kind of an off and on thing. Try to engage for a few or more seconds then nothing for awhile then repeat. It sounds like it's at the transfer case. It could very well be coming from firewall/engine bay area as well. Is there anything between the dash switch and the motor?
I'm in the process of changing my shift motor on my 04 f350. I can't get it off because of a broken bolt. The previous owner must have done this before, and snapped the head and some of the shaft off, so it's basically an alignment pin that's recessed into the hole on the motor. For some reason it's holding the motor on, even though I don't think the hole is threaded. Any way to get it off. I'm thinking that taking a MAP gas torch to the casting on the motor may be my best bet.
View 8 RepliesI have a 2000 F250 4x4 7.3 - About a month ago I drove across town and then noticed a strong hot brake smell from the rear of the truck. When I drove home about 2 hours later it was gone and didn't return until today. Today I stopped at a light with my window down and got the same hot brake smell, looked in the mirror and saw smoke coming from my drive's side rear wheel.
I carefully drove home (the smoke was now gone, all i did was cycle the parking brake release a couple of times) and pulled the wheel off. Rotor was really hot but smooth and clean. Brake caliper and pads looked great (no sign of the pads glazing or dragging, dry as a bone). The inside of the rotor was wet with oil. The brake shoes and components were soaked with the same fluid/oil.
Does this sound like a typical hub seal issue? Excuse my ignorance since I haven't had the rear hubs apart before but does the gear oil in the rear diff go into the axle tubes? I know the front tubes are dry but I didn't know if the rears are different. The amount of fluid on the brakes seems to be more than the little bit that is inside the hub. I need to pick up the parts and rent/purchase a couple of tools to replace the seal so I want to be as sure as possible that I'm on the right track...
Check out the pics. 99 f250 4x4. I have a leak in my front axle shaft. It looks like it is coming out of the dust cap on the end of the front shaft. I am pretty sure it is differential fluid from the smell. Is there a seal before the dust cap? Is the shaft hollow with fluid in it? I thought it was just in the differential and if it leaks it is at the seals where the axle goes into the differential not at the otter end.
View 14 Replies2011 f250 gas 4x4... I bought last year with 65k miles, now has 105k. sometimes when accelerating it slips for a second like a manual would if you jabbed the clutch while pulling. I had the 100k trans flush done. I noticed it a couple times before but more frequent recently. How concerned should i be?
View 6 RepliesI have a 2011 F250 with the 6.2 34000 miles and my Transmission shifts hard between 2-3 and 4-5 took it to the Ford dealer and they said it is the shift solenoids are bad but it is cause from the Powertrain Control Module and its not covered by the warranty because it is part of the emission system.
View 4 RepliesI have a 2008 Ford F250 V-10 Superduty and recently I had a transmission cooler line start to leak. I ordered replacement lines and the tool for the quick disconnect. The line that's leaking is from the radiator to the quick disconnect. I was able to replace the one line, however the second line (problem area) has been a nightmare. The line cracked right at the quick disconnect fitting.
The hard line is tight in the fitting and corroded. broke the tool trying to remove from disconnect. The line is flush with the quick disconnect. How to get that out of the fitting? or another method of fix? Its a hard 1/2 line going into connect crimped to rubber line going to transmission.
I have a 2001 F250 Super Duty 5.4 Triton motor with a Transmission Leak. I have drained the Transmission, replaced the Transmission pan gasket and filter. The auto parts store also had me purchase the Torque Converter bearings/seal along with enough transmission fluid and a bottle of Lukas Transmission fix. Do I really need to replace the bearings/seal if I have everything else already ?
View 2 RepliesPurchased my first used Super Duty 2011 F250 6.2. Love the truck. This is my 3rd ford truck. I get home from work, so the truck is warm. Sit for 20 min, then leave to take the kids to their games. After turning onto the street then accelerating power is lost for 1-2 seconds, then the truck continues to accelerate. If I let off the pedal, then the truck will slow down, if I hold the pedal position of push down it does nothing. This is going to drive me crazy. Not sure if this is a TCM reprogram issue? It only does this on the initial take off. I want to start playing with my new truck, but want to fix this bug first.
View 5 RepliesI have a '95 F-250 7.3 auto 4X4. The transfer case linkage has been floppy and prone to coming apart since I've had it, but that's been fine for me. I let my brother use the truck last weekend, and now it does the following: When you put the transmission in reverse, or when the truck overruns the engine (compression braking) it grinds badly like the transfer case isn't quite engaged. Only does it in 2 or 4 Hi, and everything's normal otherwise.
Could the transfer case have jumped out of gear while he was driving it, and he didn't know to either push it into gear or pull it into neutral before it did damage? I really don't want to pull a transfer case in my driveway in December in New England, but give it to me straight.
I have a 2008 f-250 6.4 Diesel. Yesterday the Brake Fluid light came on. I thought maybe a sensor, but once I parked and checked I realized my brake fluid was down to the Min line. I started looking for a leak and it was apparent that it was the front drivers wheel area.
I am attaching a picture of the brake. The leak is either coming from the area where the fluid line runs into the gold thing (caliper?) or the bolt at the bottom of the gold thing.
My '11 F250 stock w/airbags has a mild shudder when I let off the gas approaching a stop light. If I air the bags up to about 20 lbs it appears to go away, or at least is undetectable. I don't notice this if travelling at a higher rate of speed on a highway but only when slowing down from a lower speed (<40 mph). What this could be?
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