Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2011 F250 - Oil Change Required Message Reset
Mar 27, 2012
For those of you struggling like I was a few minutes ago... Here is a procedure that worked for me.
1. Key ON.
2. Select OK to get rid of OIL CHANGE REQUIRED message.
3. Scroll down to SETTINGS and push OK.
4. Scroll down to VEHICLE and push OK.
5. Scroll down to OIL LIFE RESET and push OK.
6. Scroll to any % other than what you want and push OK.
7. Scroll to what % you want and push OK.
8. Key OFF.
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My 2012 F-250 gas just started showing this message that a coolant change is required. I am just over 59k miles. Is this a timed message all F-250's get, or is it an indications something is wrong? The truck does not run hot, it keeps perfect temperature even when I am towing my 13klbs boat.
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Circumstances required me to make an emergency trip to Phoenix this week. On the way down, I first got the "Oil change soon" warning, followed by the "Oil change required" message a few hundred miles later.
I religiously keep my truck serviced on time, and have never had either of these warnings come up before. My truck had 2700 miles on it since last service was done when this first warning came up. My truck gets very little idle time, so it's not sitting idling for hours a day.
My question is, is this oil change message a result of an actual oil monitoring sensor that measures oil quality on-the-fly, or is it strictly based on a miles or odometer timer that gets reset when dealer changes the oil?
At this point I'm wondering if the kid that serviced my truck either forgot to reset a timer, or worse, just "pencil whipped" my oil change. I have to call my home dealer back, since the service manager wasn't in yet when I called.
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I'm having trouble resetting my oil life meter in my 16 F250. I think I'm doing exactly what the manual says but nothing is happening. I turn the ignition on and wait a second for the ford start up graphics to finish and then press the gas and brake at the same time as far as they will go. The manual says after 3 seconds I'll see a message saying the reset is in progress but I don't get any message on the screen. Am I doing something wrong?
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I have a 2012 F150 XL. I don't have a message center, just a 2 line LED readout, and there is nothing in the owner's manual about resetting the "oil change required" message.
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I've got an intermittent Trailer Wiring Error message that started appearing with a trailer connected on my '11 F250.
Brakes and lights work OK on the trailer, I thought I had read on the board here that there was a TSB for this, but I cannot find it.
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I just bought a 2011 F250 Super Duty 6.2L and the manual A/C buttons were stuck on Max A/C and wouldn't change. I fiddled with every switch on the dash thinking it might be a stuck switch and eventually all the buttons started working. This truck has SYNC, which works fine, and I can't find anything else wrong with the truck.
When the buttons are lit, it blows good and cold, in A/C and Max A/C. The problem I'm having now is that they won't light up at all. Visual inspection shows nothing obvious under the hood, and it has a charge of freon. I drove and it id working just fine, but stuck on the Max setting. I'm thinking electrical gremlins, like stuck switch or a relay...
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Just picked up my F250 a few days ago and it's been great up until yesterday when I hopped in to start her up and nothing. It's a brand new battery and all lights worked, but the dash was dead. I attempted in vain for an hour or so to diagnose as to why this was happening and just happened to open the door with the key in the ignition and hit the door lock button....all of a sudden the truck starts beeping and the message on the dash said "to disable alarm start vehicle". I turned the key, the dash lighted up and away I went. What I may have done to cause this or has it happened to you? I'm thinking it's something with the key fob but not sure.
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Just replaced the alternator in my 1993 Ford F250. How do I reset my check engine light? It keeps coming on after I drive for roughly 5 to 10 minutes.
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OK....my gas cap (5.4 gasser) wasn't put on properly at the gas station. A couple of blocks later, the "Check Gas Cap" notice came on. I stopped a few blocks later, and installed the cap properly. The notice STILL came on. After messing with the cap 4 more times, I gave up, but the notice is still on. Do I need to have it "erased" like a code, or is there a problem with the cap? Everything LOOKS fine...
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A buddy's 2012 f250 message center is not working at all. He replaced the fuse and it's still not working. The gauges work but not the high tech information center. He isn't sure if it's out of warranty because he can't see the miles. I'm not sure that's it's anywhere related but his back up sensors do not work either.
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I have an 11 F350 6.7. It has just under 200K miles on it. Yesterday I changed the oil. Very uneventful. Today however, I was driving home, about 100 miles, and my truck's temp spiked. Not like a little spike, but jumped to the 3/4 mark(if there was one) then slowly kept rising to to the overheat mark. I pulled off onto the hard shoulder waited an hour or so to let it cool down, then finished the drive home.
All the way home my temp gauge seemed like it was on some sort of drug. It would jump a needle width when I would have to accelerate, then slowly cool to normal after I got up to cruising speed.
When I got home I checked the oil level and it was spot on in the "normal" range. I haven't used a different type/brand/weight of oil in the last 100k miles. Did something just give out on my truck? I had the coolant flushed and replaced at the dealer within the last 10k miles.
Up until this point this truck has been exceedingly reliable. I pull a 13k 5th wheel once a month and drive about 40k-ish miles a year.
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I have (2) 2014 f250's both have given the trailer disconnected message randomly from the day they were new. Dealer says everything is with in specification. I just live with it now but something must be wrong with the design. Only does it when no trailer is connected an might be worse when it rains. Might have to hit the ok button every 10 minutes so on bad days.
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I have an 11 F350 6.7. It has just under 200K miles on it. Yesterday I changed the oil. Very uneventful. Today however, I was driving home, about 100 miles, and my truck's temp spiked. Not like a little spike, but jumped to the 3/4 mark(if there was one) then slowly kept rising to to the overheat mark. I pulled off onto the hard shoulder waited an hour or so to let it cool down, then finished the drive home. All the way home my temp gauge seemed like it was on some sort of drug. It would jump a needle width when I would have to accelerate, then slowly cool to normal after I got up to cruising speed.
When I got home I checked the oil level and it was spot on in the "normal" range. I haven't used a different type/brand/weight of oil in the last 100k miles. Did something just give out on my truck? I had the coolant flushed and replaced at the dealer within the last 10k miles. Up until this point this truck has been exceedingly reliable. I pull a 13k 5th wheel once a month and drive about 40k-ish miles a year.
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Every time I put the truck in reverse, I get a "Check Rear Park Aid" message on my display.
I tried wiping all of the sensors clean, and I checked the electrical connections and all seem to be fine.
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I have a 2013 F250 and to day the TPMS light came on with a low tire warning message. A little back history, I put new tires on the truck when I bought it and they currently have 9200 miles on them. I didn't like having the tires at the 80psi the tire shop set them at so I lowered them to 62psi right away and haven't had any issues with the low pressure warning going off. Today I was backing into a parking spot and the warning light came on with a low tire message. I checked all the tires and they were right where they should be, but when I got home I added another 5psi to see what would happen and the light never went off after taking it on a 10 mile drive.
My question is, do I have a wheel sensor issue or is something messed up in the computer? I know the door sticker says 75psi front/80rear, but I've been running the tires at 62psi for 9200 miles without trouble so I can't think that the pressure is the culprit. Also, does the spare tire have a sensor in it? In the manual in one paragraph it seemed like it does, but in the next it said that the spare doesn't have one so the light will stay on to remind you to change the spare out.
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My 08, when I connect my 7-pin trailer up, bouncing down the road that message and tone CONSTANTLY going off....drives me nuts! I have went thru the wire harness 2x now, cleaned all the contacts, etc. Any other thing short of a 12 gauge? When it does pop on, the controller starts flashing...I've reached down a few times and manually hit the brakes and it still hits em so whatever it is, I feel its very minor or whatever....just don't know where to go now! All contacts have been cleaned good as well.
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Trying to stay up on my maintenance on my '11 f-350 diesel. It just turned 59k. I can only find Ford's recommended service interval for changing the fluid in the transfer case listed in the "Special Operating Conditions" section of my Scheduled Maintenance Guide for towing, delivery, off-road and dusty conditions at 60,000 miles. I tow some, but maybe 20% of the time, I end up driving a lot of stop and go though.
So I found this nice how to online "Guzzle's Transfer Case Fluid Change" - it's for a 02 heavy duty, is it about the same on the newer diesel trucks?
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2012 F-250 super cab 4x4, 6.7 and just over 100k on the odometer. He pulls a 20' landscaping trailer with about 3000lbs of gear on a daily basis. He drives the same rounds weekly and the truck is dealer serviced. His trips to the pump used to be every 7 days and are now occurring every 3-4 days. He's down to 10.4 mpg. I usually can pull better mileage with the 6.2 pulling said trailer.
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I have a quick question. I am gonna change the fluid in my 01 f250 rear end. it has 410 gears and a limited slip diff. if i use full synthetic gear oil do i have to add the limited slip additive or just the 75w-140 full synthetic gear oil.
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I have reset my tire sensors twice and the low tire light would still come on, so I called the dealer today..he said you have to set the tire pressure to what is on the door jam.
65 psi front and 85 psi rear. I did not know that. I had been setting all to 65 psi.
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