Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2011 F250 - No Parking / Side Marker Or Fog Lights
Mar 28, 2017
My 2011 F250 has no front or rear running lights working, mirror side marker lights not working and fog lights not working. I have checked all fuses including 30amp trailer light fuse and they are good. The fuses in the passenger kick panel are not getting energized.
I replaced the switch with a friends from same truck and no luck there. The headlights, dash lights and turn signals work fine. Here's the kicker, when I back feed 12V to the yellow/blue wire at front running light it turns them all on, including mirror lights. I've switched out relays in the box under hood and that didn't work.
When I pull the switch on dash to turn on the fog lights the indicator in the switch doesn't work either, they are both listed on the same fuse but as I said, the fuses have continuity across the blades but when I test the socket there is no voltage going to them. I have not connected a trailer to see if those are out yet but will do today.
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all lights work except parking lights/tail lights. have blue lights under trk had to cut wire by COPS when got dark had no tail light cut wire had shorted taped off changed fuse 15 amp slot 30 10 amp slot 40 still no tail lights. Is their a relay or module before fuse box or after or what could be wrong
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When I hook a trailer to my '04 F-250 the parking lights stay on. The lights on the truck are not on. I pulled the fuse for the towing lights and they will go out. Pulled what I believe to be the relay according to the owners manual and they still stay on. I have to unplug the trailer every time I stop for any period of time.
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2000 F-250 Super Duty
I was replacing my headlights, which required me to splice in their lights to my parking lights, and I seem to have shutdown ALL my parking lights. I did a test after twisting my wires together and everything worked fine. Then I soldered and heat shrunk them and somewhere during that process I lost all the parking lights.
I checked the 8th fuse as per the manual (for Parking Lamps) with a multimeter and it checked out just fine.
Figured it was the time to ask the experts on here where I should go from here. Are there some other fuses I could be missing, or maybe some else I could do?
Solved: Bad fuse in the #8 slot in the Power Distribution Box (under the hood, near Cab, driver's side)...
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I have a 2002 f250 SD v10 4x4. I had a ground wire break fixed that know noon of my instruments work. Dash lights up but nothing moves. Pulse my parking lights stay on when the truck is shut off or when I turn lights on then off. I have to disconnect the battery to get hem to shut off.
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Purchased a new 2016 F250 Diesel. When you shut the truck off or open any door while the vehicle is parked, the interior, markers, and bed lights all come on. I know it is suppose to be a convenience but to me it is a pain. And to make matters worst, they remain on for a short period of time after you leave the truck and close the door. Sometimes you don't want the lights to come on, like when you shut the truck off and are waiting to pickup someone. Any solution for this problem, short of removing the bulbs, or reprograming the computer?
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I installed an aluminum flatbed on m 2004 F250 5.4 and when I was wiring the lights, I accidentally shorted the marker/running lights to ground. The fuse is not blown (17), the dash lights come on. I have checked for power to the other lamps and there is nothing. I am looking for any information that would lead where to look for the cause.
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My 2011 f250 is stuck in park and the brake lights do not work. I have changed the brake switch but still wont shift out of park.
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Just became the proud owner of a used 2011 F-250 Supercab, 6.2L. Overall the truck is great but it does have a-few things that need fixing, the most annoying of which is a knocking sound from the rear passenger side cab corner. Sounds like the exhaust vibrating and smacking up against the floorboard but that's not it. Everything seems tight, even the front suspension.
The only thing I can see that may be the cause is the rear passenger cab mount seems worn. I can rotate the bottom rubber portion without too much effort and when I feel for the top rubber portion all I feel is the metal cup on the top, like the rubber has collapsed and the metal cup is sitting directly on the frame mount.
So... how many cab mounts there are for the Supercab? I think there are two on each side and two in the front. All of the information & videos I've seen describe the locations for the crew cab. Also, is it possible to replace the cab mounts and not have to mess with the ones in the front? I hear those are the real buggers.
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I just purchased a '12 f250 Lariat w/ 39k miles. When I got home I noticed one of the three LED running board lights does not work on the passenger side. Can I replace this myself?
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I was wondering if there was a DIY mod so I can have my foglights on with my parking lights and my high beams..
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My 2016 f250 Lariat 6.2 4x4.. Question.. There's some sort of tapping noise that comes from underneath the under carriage like around exhaust area it seems.It's like a tapping sound the truck makes once its turned off. Does it about 6 times every 2 to 3 minutes.. Cant pin point the noise.
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My truck doesn't want to go grab parking!! The shifter has a lot of play, Every time I go to park my truck I have to forcefully hold the shifter up into parking so it can grab. I had times when the shifter its in parking and it will still move, like I've gotten out and pushed it and it moves.
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How do I adjust the parking brake on my 08 F250? It's not holding when my truck is parked on a hill.
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I have a f250 super duty. I blew a brake line the main going to the rear. So the genius that I am I replaced the line an simple enough I decide hell why not replace the master cylinder too, so I did an I bleed the brakes an everything works jst fine but now the the brake light won't turn off I have tried everything not sure what could possibly cause the light to stay on. I will eliminate some suggestions, I bleed the brakes, the brake fluid is full, the level sensor is completely attached, the parking brake is not on, I pulled the parking brake completely out, even completely disconnected the sensor thinking it would turn off bu it didn't.
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2005 Super Duty 350. Getting ready to get my truck DOT-ed and I noticed the front amber side marker and parking lamps are not working (both in the headlight assembly). There is a fuse called "exterior lamps" that I believe these are on, the fuse is fine and all the rest of the exterior lamps on the truck work fine (all other markers, clearance lights and I.D. lamps on that same all inclusive circuit). Is there a special relay or something else I'm missing for these four front bulbs?
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Late last night as I was puling up to park in front of a dark restaurant, I turned off my headlights so I would not blind the people inside. This is a 2010 Prius III.
When I left and tried to turn them back on, only the drivers side parking light (the small white one above the headlight) and side marker light worked. Passenger side nothing works, however on both sides the high beams do work.
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Using alarm or turning off head lights my running lights will not turn off. I am thinking it has something to do with alarm. I unplugged headligths and dimmer switch and still stays on. Where the relay is or the alarm box is located its on a 2006 F250 4X4....
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New to me 2012 F550 parking lights will not go off. Battery disconnected now. Touch battery cable parking lights come on.
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Parking brake light stays doesn't come on when the parking brake is engaged. The light DOES come on when starting the vehicle and the gauge cluster cycles through its start up procedure. Couldn't find a fuse that would fix my issue...does one exist?
Truck is an '02 F250 w/ 7.3TD and 6 speed manual.
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I'm re-doing the parking brake as part of a rear brake job on my 2009 F250. I need to disconnect the intermediate brake cable at the equalizer, but am having trouble. I've got slack in the cable, but can't push hard enough to get the swaged cable end to move within the connector that's between the equalizer cable and the intermediate cable.
Is there a special tool or some trick to this? If push comes to shove, I can cut the connector (assuming I can get a replacement), but would rather not.
Also, any particular trick to disconnecting the cable to the parking brake lever at the wheel? With that huge spring between the cable bracket and the end of the lever, I haven't been able to move the cable end enough to disconnect it from the lever. Since I don't have the intermediate cable disconnected, could that have something to do with it?
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