Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2011 F250 - Mirrors Not Extending
Jul 16, 2015
While cleaning the door handles the switch to extend and retract the side view mirrors hung was depressed and evidently got stuck as it was still pressed in. My hope is that this just blew a fuse and not burn up anything. The mirrors still fold and can be adjusted just not extended. Is there a fuse specific for this that may be blown?
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How to disassemble the power fold mirrors on my 2011 F250.
The mirrors work in every way except they will not fold in or out. You can hear the motor start but then stops right away. It does not sound like the gear is stripped just that the motor is stuck some home. It happened to both mirrors about the same time.
I was going to take one apart and see if there is a issue. I can't see there being a electrical issue, but maybe, since the driver side starts then stops within 1 second. It's hard to tell about the passenger side since the switch is on the drivers side.
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I'm replacing tow mirrors on my 2004 F250 with 2008 mirrors. Both are factory Ford mirrors. Need wiring diagram since connectors and wires are different. They both have power mirrors, turn signals, heated mirrors, but are not power retract or fold.
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How to remove the side mirrors (top and bottom) on my 2016 F250? I don't need to remove the entire assembly (off the door), just need to get behind the mirrors themselves.
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I have a 2011 F350 with the towing package. I got it used as it and it was a northern truck. My towing mirrors won't extend in or out. They fold and unfold just fine. When I press the button to telescope them I can hear the motor running so I know the fuse is good. I took the glass off the mirrors and scraped some salt out of the joints. I sprayed some lube on the joints as well but still no luck. I also tried forcing them but not too much to avoid breaking them.
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I just got my truck recently, when I purchased it the power mirrors do not work. Already checked the 5A fuse and it is good. Tried putting in a new switch from O'Reilly's and still did not work. Are these switches supposed to light up like the window and lock switch? Thinking it might be a break in the wiring or motors are seized but I've read that is not as common.
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The power mirrors on my F-250 works halfway. I can get them to move inward but not outward. They also will upward but not down. These are both mirrors. Could it be the switch?
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I have a 1999 F250 Superduty with power tow mirrors. Both mirrors are having this issue. It seems both motors moving the mirrors are trying to run at the same time. I tried replacing the control switch since both mirrors are having the issue, but got the same results. Holding the switch to move the mirrors out causes it to move down and out. Moving it in and it goes up and in. I know from experience with electric on a vehicle that when funny things happen, its usually because it lost the ground.
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I'm having an issue on my 2008 f250 power stroke. My telescoping mirrors are causing the fuse to blow instantly when I hit the button. Where to start looking for a short?
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I just bought a 2001 F250 XLT and it came with the standard power paddle mirrors. I would love to add the towing mirrors (preferably heated with signals), but what I am wondering is if the connectors for the mirrors are the same. Also would my truck that came with the standard paddle mirrors be wired for turn signals and heated options? How would I test for this? Also do all XLT's come prewired for the hardwire keyless entry pad if they have keyless entry?
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I have a 2011 f250 6.7 and I have a very bad vibration between 40-50 that seems to peak around 45-47. It also starts again at 80+ . the dealer told me they could not find a problem. Then another told me its normal. The tire shop around here told me the tires were shot so I bought new tires. No luck. It does not affect it if I change gears.
2011 f250 4x4 6.7 SWB. 140,000 miles
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I own a 2011 f-250 superduty, and have been having a problem with the steering, it goes from normal to lost of assist. Real hard to steer and dangerous. Then it will go away for a month, then start again. Some one on this site told me to flush the system which I did and it was fine for a month. A friend at a local ford dealer told me they had contamination in the system and I had to replace pump, reservoir, and flush system again....
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Bought my 2011 F250 6.2L brand new and have had issues with it accelerating since new. I had it in once and they replaced the mass air I believe.
When I merge onto the highway for example and give it some good gas (not really stomping on it) it down shifts and pauses like it trying to figure out what gear it wants to be in, then it picks a gear and the RPM's rev high, but then sometimes it will do the same thing again and then finally take off. If I completely lay into the throttle, it revs high and drops into a gear, then comes back out and drops into another gear, then does it yet again.
Not a fun situation to be in when big rigs are barreling down on you in the right lane! I work 6 days a week and a lot of doubles, so my one day off is usually spent running errands and dropping my truck off all day with the possibility of leaving it for two days just isn't viable, so I hate to bring it in for them to tell me it's fine.
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Love my '11 f250 SD 4WD CC SB. 6.2 with 3.73 e-locker. I've got 5 Star tunes in it, and the truck is a joy to drive empty, and tows my current 7k camper fine, though on steep inclines I wish I had the 4:30 gears.
Well, we just bought a bigger trailer, dry weight is an addtl 2400+ at 9400, so I'll need to do something.
I don't want a different truck, don't want (another trouble-prone) diesel. I think with 4:30s and the tune, I should be fine towing that trailer (with gear and passengers, probably 11-11.5k loaded). Not doing mountains here, just Michigan hills.
What's the best way to "do" a gear swap? I know if I buy a set of gears and a shop screws Em up, it's gonna whine/hum and still cost 2k to do (truck is 4wd)
I'm up in the boonies and finding a shop to swap the gears will be a problem. Getting Em done right will be even MORE trouble.
Can I just find 4:30 axles ans have them swapped (anything in t-case or sensors need to be touched?). I don't care if I lose the e-locker, I never use it.
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So two weeks ago I had a battery melt on me and I replaced it. Then last week I had the other battery almost blow up on me (it was a mess and smoking). I didnt use it all weekend. Today it started right up. I drove it like 500 feet and it just died. It is very weird. Both batteries are fully charged. Relay is good. When I put in the key it does nothing. No sound no radio no clicking. However, the gps still works (the online monitoring kind). I can fold in my out revie mirrors. And I can lock and unlock the doors. and the interior overhead lights come on. Nothing else has power at all. And I can't put it in neutral. Right now the truck is blocking my driveway so nothing can get in or our of here. I am wondering if it is some type of antitheft issue...
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I have a 2011 6.7L F-250 with the stock 17" rims and need new tires. Would 285/75/17's will fit without modification or rubbing?
The stock tires were 265/70/17 and were too small. I have 285/65/18's on there now without rubbing, but it is close. Going back to the 17" rim with a taller tire makes me a little nervous, as I can't check them before purchasing.
I do not want to have any rubbing or have to do any modifications (lift, spacers, etc...). I would like to keep the vehicle stock.
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My 2011 F-250 diesel will not start when it gets to be about 85 to 90 degrees. In cold weather (I live in South Florida, so by "cold" I mean 50 to 70 degrees) it starts up just fine and gives no problems whatsoever. However once the summer months hit it more often than not it will not start. I've taken it to the local Ford dealer and when they run diagnostics it doesn't report any problems. I admittedly don't use the truck very often and it will at times sit for a couple months without use. Could that be a cause of the problem? What the problem might be?
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The third brake light (on cab) went out and I can't seem to find which bulb to get to replace it. Are they the same as the 2 Taillight bulbs on the bed?
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2011 250 run fine when parked it Friday jumped in it Monday morning got a check traction control light on will not shift out of park no break lights replaced break switch all fuses are good.
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I have a 2011 F250 with ac problems. When you start it in the morning and turn the ac on it only takes a small amount of time for the air to start cooling. If you turn the truck off then start it again after driving to town the ac blows hot air out up to 4 minutes (yes I timed it) before it starts cooling. I took it to a local repair shop and the first time they said it only had half the freon it needed. The charged it and off I went. Same problem. The second time they informed me the fan clutch was not engaging and replaced it. I picked it up and the first time it was turned off and back on it had the same problem. I am scheduled to take it back to the same repair shop on Monday.
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2011 f250 gas 4x4... I bought last year with 65k miles, now has 105k. sometimes when accelerating it slips for a second like a manual would if you jabbed the clutch while pulling. I had the 100k trans flush done. I noticed it a couple times before but more frequent recently. How concerned should i be?
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