Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2011 F250 - Manual Button Stuck On Max A/C And Would Not Change
Jun 27, 2014
I just bought a 2011 F250 Super Duty 6.2L and the manual A/C buttons were stuck on Max A/C and wouldn't change. I fiddled with every switch on the dash thinking it might be a stuck switch and eventually all the buttons started working. This truck has SYNC, which works fine, and I can't find anything else wrong with the truck.
When the buttons are lit, it blows good and cold, in A/C and Max A/C. The problem I'm having now is that they won't light up at all. Visual inspection shows nothing obvious under the hood, and it has a charge of freon. I drove and it id working just fine, but stuck on the Max setting. I'm thinking electrical gremlins, like stuck switch or a relay...
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2011 250 run fine when parked it Friday jumped in it Monday morning got a check traction control light on will not shift out of park no break lights replaced break switch all fuses are good.
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For those of you struggling like I was a few minutes ago... Here is a procedure that worked for me.
1. Key ON.
2. Select OK to get rid of OIL CHANGE REQUIRED message.
3. Scroll down to SETTINGS and push OK.
4. Scroll down to VEHICLE and push OK.
5. Scroll down to OIL LIFE RESET and push OK.
6. Scroll to any % other than what you want and push OK.
7. Scroll to what % you want and push OK.
8. Key OFF.
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I am changing my 99 f250 4x4 from auto to manual tranny. I am just looking for pics of where the hydro line runs. I don't want line rubbing something and ruining line. Like does line run under the cab wiring harness? Like between wiring and firewall? Where on firewall does reservior get mounted usually? Are the holes all ready there for it that I am not seeing?
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I have a2011 f-250 in my fleet, manual a/c and just the other day it shut off like a switch, when you start the truck it comes on and the buttons all work but after 6 seconds it goes dead, no lights, no blower nothing, everything else works fine. I have also noticed when you first start when the radio goes from the station to the clock thats when the climate unit shuts off. talked to the dealer they said they never sell and control heads and i doubt its that cause it works on first start.
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Changing from manual windows to power? I don't want to swap doors because of the repaint issue but wondered what is involved, if it's even possible. I just read how to convert the rear windows on a Super Cab to power and it got me wondering about the front.
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I am new to being an F250 owner. Just recently purchased a 2000 F250 SD 4x4 with the 5.4 and a 5 speed trans. Got a pretty good deal on it, because I knew some work had to be put into it, and do plan on dropping the trans. Currently, if the truck has been sitting for a little bit, not cool, but not running for a little bit, when I start it, whether it is in gear or in neutral, there is a noise coming from what seems to be the clutch area.
After a couple minutes of driving, this noise goes away and all sounds as it should. A little bit of researching turned up the possibility of the throw out bearing being bad, however, I found other posts online that doubt this. Another symptom that I assume is connected is that if I go to put it in reverse at 0mph from neutral, it grinds.
In order to go into reverse, I have to press in the clutch, put it in first, then put it in reverse, at which point it goes in no problem. I had already planned on replacing the clutch because it seems to me that would be the logical choice as to where the problem originates, so no issue there. But perhaps I'm wrong??
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My manual hubs on my 2006 f250 have become very hard to rotate so I would like to replace them. I saw that bronco graveyard has Warn hubs for a Dana 60 front axle. Is this what I need? My door sticker with the axle code is illegible, and I want to make sure I get the right hubs.
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Well, I've been meaning to get to servicing/re-greasing the front hubs/bearings for a while but somehow it keeps getting moved down the list.
2000 F250SD 4X4 Gas Manual Hubs+Trans
I'm currently going through the many threads that turned up in my search query.
Driving slow with the windows down it seems like a low whine or squeal coming from the left front. Tone changes when working the steering wheel left and right. Haven't detected any grinding sounds. Any other techniques for isolating the problem? It's going up on jack stands tonight and I'm going to see if there is any wobble from the front wheels and I'll listen as I turn each of the front wheels. Oddly, the right front hub is hard to turn. Left front turns easy.
Viewed Rob259956's videos on servicing the hubs. Currently researching accessing the wheel bearings. It seems pretty straightforward. Truck has been off road but not mud bogged or anything like that. I'm guessing a bad bearing will be easy to identify as will a bad o-ring but any other stuff I should look closely at?
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I have an 11 F350 6.7. It has just under 200K miles on it. Yesterday I changed the oil. Very uneventful. Today however, I was driving home, about 100 miles, and my truck's temp spiked. Not like a little spike, but jumped to the 3/4 mark(if there was one) then slowly kept rising to to the overheat mark. I pulled off onto the hard shoulder waited an hour or so to let it cool down, then finished the drive home.
All the way home my temp gauge seemed like it was on some sort of drug. It would jump a needle width when I would have to accelerate, then slowly cool to normal after I got up to cruising speed.
When I got home I checked the oil level and it was spot on in the "normal" range. I haven't used a different type/brand/weight of oil in the last 100k miles. Did something just give out on my truck? I had the coolant flushed and replaced at the dealer within the last 10k miles.
Up until this point this truck has been exceedingly reliable. I pull a 13k 5th wheel once a month and drive about 40k-ish miles a year.
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I have an 11 F350 6.7. It has just under 200K miles on it. Yesterday I changed the oil. Very uneventful. Today however, I was driving home, about 100 miles, and my truck's temp spiked. Not like a little spike, but jumped to the 3/4 mark(if there was one) then slowly kept rising to to the overheat mark. I pulled off onto the hard shoulder waited an hour or so to let it cool down, then finished the drive home. All the way home my temp gauge seemed like it was on some sort of drug. It would jump a needle width when I would have to accelerate, then slowly cool to normal after I got up to cruising speed.
When I got home I checked the oil level and it was spot on in the "normal" range. I haven't used a different type/brand/weight of oil in the last 100k miles. Did something just give out on my truck? I had the coolant flushed and replaced at the dealer within the last 10k miles. Up until this point this truck has been exceedingly reliable. I pull a 13k 5th wheel once a month and drive about 40k-ish miles a year.
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What this could be? It blinks all the time was on the truck when I got it. Has a button in the bottom of it. This is on a 2009 super duty 250 and the 6.4 L if that matters.
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I bought a 2012 F250 6.2L 4wd recently, truck came from Canada, Noticed a sticky residue along button of doors, around hinges, inside front and side edges of hood, some of the goo is in the A/C coil, doesn't have much odor, maybe oil, comes off with degreaser, doesn't look like it came from engine as that is clean, could this be something they spray on the roads up there? Doesn't seem to harm anything just messy if you rub up against it?
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My father has a 2009 Ford F-250 Superduty with the 5.4l V8. Two days ago, he frantically woke me up from a nap because he could not get the truck out of park nor are the brake lights turning on when the pedal is pressed. I instantly thought Shift Interlock, did a quick google search and found that it can be the shift interlock or brake light switch on the brake pedal. I have since then replaced both to no avail as well as checking all fuses. I put a multimeter to the brake light switch connector and am getting a steady 10.2v. I am aware there is a bypass switch but that doesn't address the fact that he has no brake lights.
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My Ford 250 is currently stuck in park, it starts but I can't move the shifter. It sounds like it is a fuse issue from what I have read, but I bought the truck at an auction and I don't have a book. Do the brake or parking brake fuse? And where is it located? I know there is a panel under the hood and under the dash, which fuse to look for. It's a 2008 extended cab gas model.
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My defrost is stuck no matter which way I turn the control it won't come off. It just started doing this today. I think it might be a vacuum leak. When I turn my switch on the pump still clicking whether or not it's pumping.
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I have a 2006 F250 V10 that has this issue most of the time but not all the time. Start her up, foot on brake and the shifter wont move. I use the bypass method to get her moving when this happens. It seems to be doing it more often lately. Also I recently has a cruise control issue. Hit the brake to shut it off and it doesn't stop it! Not sure if the 2 are related. The internet said I need to replace the switch on the master cylinder to fix the cruise control. I got lots of different stories on the park issue.
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My 2013 F-250 Super-Duty periodically won't start or come out of park. I have tried the ignition trick of tuning it to first position but with no luck. Sometimes I can see the light for the indicating light for being in park flashing on and off rapidly and manage to get it into neutral to start. It appears to be completely random. I potentially happens when I drive it for longer periods or do frequent stops around town.
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Trying to stay up on my maintenance on my '11 f-350 diesel. It just turned 59k. I can only find Ford's recommended service interval for changing the fluid in the transfer case listed in the "Special Operating Conditions" section of my Scheduled Maintenance Guide for towing, delivery, off-road and dusty conditions at 60,000 miles. I tow some, but maybe 20% of the time, I end up driving a lot of stop and go though.
So I found this nice how to online "Guzzle's Transfer Case Fluid Change" - it's for a 02 heavy duty, is it about the same on the newer diesel trucks?
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2012 F-250 super cab 4x4, 6.7 and just over 100k on the odometer. He pulls a 20' landscaping trailer with about 3000lbs of gear on a daily basis. He drives the same rounds weekly and the truck is dealer serviced. His trips to the pump used to be every 7 days and are now occurring every 3-4 days. He's down to 10.4 mpg. I usually can pull better mileage with the 6.2 pulling said trailer.
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I have a quick question. I am gonna change the fluid in my 01 f250 rear end. it has 410 gears and a limited slip diff. if i use full synthetic gear oil do i have to add the limited slip additive or just the 75w-140 full synthetic gear oil.
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