Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2011 F250 - Jerking / Lunging During Acceleration
May 30, 2017
I have a 2011 F250 Lariat, 6.2L V8. The past couple months i have noticed truck jerking/lunging during acceleration in the mornings usually between leaving the house and getting on the highway. Over the last 2 weeks the problem has progressed and seems to last longer. I have tried fuel injector cleaner with no success. This morning was the worst so far and after all this time i finally saw the maintenance "wrench" pop up on the on dash.
This was good news to me hoping that a local shop could read the code. However, when i dropped off my daughter and started back up the "wrench" went away. After warming up the problem seems to go away. This morning was so severe i lost speed and felt like the engine was going to stall.
I feel like this is related to the fuel system (injectors/pump/filter) but also haven't changed the spark plugs yet. My truck has 72,000 miles and otherwise is in good shape. How I should move forward?
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2016 F250SD XLT CC 4X4...13K miles... Now with it being blazing hot in Florida I have been running windows up and a/c on. Beginning to notice the truck is not accelerating the same with the a/c on as it does with the a/c off. It seems like it sluggish till it gets to a certain RPMs then you feel it kick in and somewhat take off. Is this normal?
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I have a 06 6.0 with 340000 miles on it believe it or not still pulls great. The problem is my clutch fan keeps roaring when I press the gas it's extremely loud all my gauges are fine so the truck isn't overheating? Also not a bad fan clutch I wasted 300 bucks on that and it's still doing the same thing.
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My 1997 250hd has the 5.8 we have rep[laced the cap,rotor,iac,tps,plugs and wires about to do the fuel filter and drop one of the tanks and change out the pump,also has a new fuel regulator. What could be making it choke out under acceleration...
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My 2006 F-250 (6.0 Diesel) started blowing black smoke under acceleration yesterday. It has 181k miles on it now. No loss of power, no rough idle, no smoke unless there's a load on the engine like accelerating, but then it doesn't matter if it's 1500 or 3000RPM, just the higher the RPM the more smoke it blows from the exhaust, dark black.
The truck has ARP headstuds, no programmer. Replaced both batteries and the A/C system about 2 weeks ago. About 3000 miles ago it got new glow plugs & harnesses, new alternator, all fluids changed, new aftermarket EGR cooler, new EGR valve, new turbo & actuator, new EBP sensor, new HPOP incl pipes and IPR.
Trucks starts up just fine, runs normal, just yesterday going down the Freeway about 65mph I noticed it started smoking black going up a hill, then smoke went away going downhill... Now every time I accelerate it's smoking black. Taking off from a stop sign it made a little puff of white smoke then went back to black smoke, but that only happened once.
Where I should start looking? No codes so far. But I have an AutoXRay EZ-Scan 6000, what sensors do I need to look at?
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Now that I use my truck as a daily driver I am noticing a vibration under acceleration at 30-35 and constant vibration at 45-50 accelerating or maintaining speed. I have replaced all three u-joints as well as new ribbed highway tires all around and still have the vibration. It seems worse in OD. I have done a little research and am either going to shim center support/machine a new one or have a one piece shaft made and need info on how to successfully gotten rid of this vibe on their truck mainly the amount of shimming required and the final driveline angle. It seems that most posts regarding this issue lean towards the fact that the 45-50mph vibe is normal for my year super duty and that's probably right but I want to remedy problem not "live with it!" (10 mile 45mph stretch to work @ 4AM, vibe bugs the heck out of me!)
Truck is 2000 f250 SC 2wd 4r100 3.73 gear currently 51000 miles.
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My heater vents have been acting up. I have read that there may be a vacuum leak that causes the blend doors to default to defrost...
Where the vacuum line fails? I have ESOF 4x4 and that is still working. I think there may be a correlation between engine vacuum and my vents: at cruising or idle the vents work ok (not perfect) and under acceleration (less vacuum) the dash vents stop blowing.
I thought that the blend doors had their own vacuum pump, so I do not know why things change at different amount of throttle?
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I have a 2011 f250 6.7 and I have a very bad vibration between 40-50 that seems to peak around 45-47. It also starts again at 80+ . the dealer told me they could not find a problem. Then another told me its normal. The tire shop around here told me the tires were shot so I bought new tires. No luck. It does not affect it if I change gears.
2011 f250 4x4 6.7 SWB. 140,000 miles
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Looking for some input on a recent "hissing" noise coming from eng compartment. It's only noticeable during initial acceleration, and sometimes at the beginning of gear changes. I am assuming its tubo and/or exhaust related, as I've noticed a strong exhaust odor in the cab as well. I wasn't under load when the problem started but i was under rapid acceleration. Not noticing any fluids or oils leaking. No warning lights have tripped, as of yet.
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Question, my truck started to have a miss under normal acceleration, when I really get on it, it clears up? I also noticed a bad sulfer smell at idle. Im thinking the cat is possibly plugged? Truck had 172000ish on it, and the cat is original. I did do a big tune up this past fall, new plugs, coil packs, air and fuel filter. Should I put a new cat on it? And a new oxygen sensor?
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I have been reading several past post regarding the misfire while in OD and going up a small hill with light acceleration around 45 to 55 mph. Everything points to the COP so I replaced it today. Still getting the code after 20 minutes of driving around. My truck shudders and looses power. I can either let up on the throttle or hammer down on it to eventually smooth it out and everything goes back to normal.
Check engine light flashed but didn't stay on. My scanner does report misfire on cylinder 7 (P0307). Haven't owned this truck very long so I don't know much of it's history except OASIS report shows nothing alarming. Guess next step is a new set of plugs.
Another first today, is the tachometer is stuck at 4500 rpm. Shut the truck off and let it sit for an hour, then went back to start and tach. acts like 4500 is the new zero and running engine at 1000 rpm now indicates 5500. 2007 F250 SD 5.4 ....
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06 250 5.4 40k on it, usually when cold and accelerating engine will misfire and stutter and then continue accelerating. The wrench light will flash sometimes but it wont store a code. This used to be vague in occurrence but has now started to be more a common occurrence even when up to normal operating temps.It seems only to misfire /stutter on hard acceleration or towing/hauling heavy loads. The only answer I got from a mech would be to do a computer reflash, not sure why /how this would fix whats going on.
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I own a 2011 f-250 superduty, and have been having a problem with the steering, it goes from normal to lost of assist. Real hard to steer and dangerous. Then it will go away for a month, then start again. Some one on this site told me to flush the system which I did and it was fine for a month. A friend at a local ford dealer told me they had contamination in the system and I had to replace pump, reservoir, and flush system again....
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Bought my 2011 F250 6.2L brand new and have had issues with it accelerating since new. I had it in once and they replaced the mass air I believe.
When I merge onto the highway for example and give it some good gas (not really stomping on it) it down shifts and pauses like it trying to figure out what gear it wants to be in, then it picks a gear and the RPM's rev high, but then sometimes it will do the same thing again and then finally take off. If I completely lay into the throttle, it revs high and drops into a gear, then comes back out and drops into another gear, then does it yet again.
Not a fun situation to be in when big rigs are barreling down on you in the right lane! I work 6 days a week and a lot of doubles, so my one day off is usually spent running errands and dropping my truck off all day with the possibility of leaving it for two days just isn't viable, so I hate to bring it in for them to tell me it's fine.
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Love my '11 f250 SD 4WD CC SB. 6.2 with 3.73 e-locker. I've got 5 Star tunes in it, and the truck is a joy to drive empty, and tows my current 7k camper fine, though on steep inclines I wish I had the 4:30 gears.
Well, we just bought a bigger trailer, dry weight is an addtl 2400+ at 9400, so I'll need to do something.
I don't want a different truck, don't want (another trouble-prone) diesel. I think with 4:30s and the tune, I should be fine towing that trailer (with gear and passengers, probably 11-11.5k loaded). Not doing mountains here, just Michigan hills.
What's the best way to "do" a gear swap? I know if I buy a set of gears and a shop screws Em up, it's gonna whine/hum and still cost 2k to do (truck is 4wd)
I'm up in the boonies and finding a shop to swap the gears will be a problem. Getting Em done right will be even MORE trouble.
Can I just find 4:30 axles ans have them swapped (anything in t-case or sensors need to be touched?). I don't care if I lose the e-locker, I never use it.
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So two weeks ago I had a battery melt on me and I replaced it. Then last week I had the other battery almost blow up on me (it was a mess and smoking). I didnt use it all weekend. Today it started right up. I drove it like 500 feet and it just died. It is very weird. Both batteries are fully charged. Relay is good. When I put in the key it does nothing. No sound no radio no clicking. However, the gps still works (the online monitoring kind). I can fold in my out revie mirrors. And I can lock and unlock the doors. and the interior overhead lights come on. Nothing else has power at all. And I can't put it in neutral. Right now the truck is blocking my driveway so nothing can get in or our of here. I am wondering if it is some type of antitheft issue...
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While cleaning the door handles the switch to extend and retract the side view mirrors hung was depressed and evidently got stuck as it was still pressed in. My hope is that this just blew a fuse and not burn up anything. The mirrors still fold and can be adjusted just not extended. Is there a fuse specific for this that may be blown?
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I have a 2011 6.7L F-250 with the stock 17" rims and need new tires. Would 285/75/17's will fit without modification or rubbing?
The stock tires were 265/70/17 and were too small. I have 285/65/18's on there now without rubbing, but it is close. Going back to the 17" rim with a taller tire makes me a little nervous, as I can't check them before purchasing.
I do not want to have any rubbing or have to do any modifications (lift, spacers, etc...). I would like to keep the vehicle stock.
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My 2011 F-250 diesel will not start when it gets to be about 85 to 90 degrees. In cold weather (I live in South Florida, so by "cold" I mean 50 to 70 degrees) it starts up just fine and gives no problems whatsoever. However once the summer months hit it more often than not it will not start. I've taken it to the local Ford dealer and when they run diagnostics it doesn't report any problems. I admittedly don't use the truck very often and it will at times sit for a couple months without use. Could that be a cause of the problem? What the problem might be?
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The third brake light (on cab) went out and I can't seem to find which bulb to get to replace it. Are they the same as the 2 Taillight bulbs on the bed?
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2011 250 run fine when parked it Friday jumped in it Monday morning got a check traction control light on will not shift out of park no break lights replaced break switch all fuses are good.
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