I am getting this check gas cap warning on the dash. I checked the cap, looks ok... Should I disconnect the battery for a minutes.. and see if it comes back?
View 4 Replies1-11-11 built F250 with the 6.2. 45K miles. Took it to my local HD truck shop to have the code read. The reader said "Evap pressure sensor switch malfunction", "vac above pressure limit wouldn't bleed". He cleared it and it has now come back.
1. Where is said switch located? Is this something I can do as I'm a seasoned wrench but I'm not dropping the tank in my driveway in the winter.
2. Is it in the tank or outside the tank?
3. Has there been any TSBs or recalls on this before I attempt to repair?
I have a annoying check coolant additive warning light that wont go away, is their another way to turn off the light other than the button on the steering wheel? I have searched the forum but have had no luck, my coolant level is at it's proper level.
View 3 Replies I've had the truck for almost a year. It had 2900mi when I bought it. It's got 18k on it now. A few weeks ago I stopped to get the mail and the dash started going crazy throwing every warning you could think of. I got back in and all the codes were gone. I figured it was a fluke until last week. It did it again. I let it run for a few minutes and decided to turn it off. It wouldn't start back up right away. After about 20min, it started and I drove straight to the dealer.
They had it for 2 days, cleared all the codes and couldn't replicate it. They said the codes were U codes and not real codes?? The next morning it did the same thing again. I took it back and after 3 days, they said they could only think that my AMP Powersteps were the cause. They disconnected the steps and wanted to keep it for a few more days. I said no and picked it back up. It made it 2 days and I got the codes again.
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Just bought this pickup is a 2011 F250 xl with the 6.2l. The service 4x4 flashes on the dash. The 4x4 shift motor fuse blows instantly when replaced even with the vehicle off. I then went and disconnected the plug ins from the shift motor and tried a new fuse and it blew again. Not sure where to go from here.
View 2 RepliesWe currently have a 2011 F250. During the day time, when you turn on the headlights all the way (not just on "auto"), the dash lights and clock shut off. Originally, I thought that they were just dimmed to the point where you couldn't see them, but the brightness is already turned all the way up on the dash lights. If I turn the brightness up any higher, the dome lights turn on, but the dash and clock remain off. If you return the headlights back to the "off" or "auto" position, the clock and dash return to their normal brightness.
View 4 Replies2 weeks ago I had the check engine light come up on my 2011 F-250 6.2 XLT. Did a diagnostic check and Codes P2098 and P2272 came up. Did some research and found out the second O2 sensor on passenger side had gone bad. I replaced it with a Motorcraft O2 sensor and cleared the code. It has not came back since. But still not getting the fuel mileage I got before. What else could be wrong?
View 5 RepliesJust picked up my F250 a few days ago and it's been great up until yesterday when I hopped in to start her up and nothing. It's a brand new battery and all lights worked, but the dash was dead. I attempted in vain for an hour or so to diagnose as to why this was happening and just happened to open the door with the key in the ignition and hit the door lock button....all of a sudden the truck starts beeping and the message on the dash said "to disable alarm start vehicle". I turned the key, the dash lighted up and away I went. What I may have done to cause this or has it happened to you? I'm thinking it's something with the key fob but not sure.
View 6 RepliesMy 4wd went out in my 2011 Superduty, the light comes on, i can feel an engagement but then I get check 4wd light on the dash. I stopped to look in the fuse box for a blown fuse but there is no panel cover there.... Im trying to locate this fuse so I can stop to the store real quick on my way home.
View 8 RepliesJust had my 2005 F250 a few weeks and the 'check air filter' warning came on
Checked the filter, it looks fine, hasn't come off...it's the cylindrical one.
My 1997 F250, 4x4, 460, auto has started dying with no warning while driving from 5 to 30 miles. Changed the fuel filter and the fuse under the hood. Where to start.
View 14 RepliesI'm from SC where we are currently getting our rainfall for the next 3 years, so it's an occasion to find leaks. My 2001 F250 has developed one right in the middle of the passenger side dash, I saw it running down a white vacuum tube and dripping off to the floor mat. Is there a place in the cowl that will hold water and leak?
View 3 RepliesI have a f250 with 6.8l engine. I can get air thru the defrost and to the floor, but no air thru the dash vents on me. I have traced all vacuum lines and they seem fine.
View 1 RepliesThis morning, the tow/haul light came on, tranny temp gauge wouldn't read (stayed below zero), "check gauges" warning came up on the panel, and "check engine" light came on. Truck ran fine/shifted fine, always has.
2007 F-250, V-10, 5-r 110 tranny.
Got this code a while back (several hundred miles) but have had no runability problems. I know it's the evap canister but my mechanic tells me it could be a myriad of things and he might spend hours on it and still not be able to resolve it. I plan on driving this truck til it's worn out. I've put 125,000 miles on it in 10 years almost all highway. I should be putting much fewer miles on now, only using it when I NEED a truck which should be less and less, mostly for hauling toys.
I hate to drive this thing another 10+ years with the engine fault light on but my mechanic says that if something serious goes wrong it will start to flash. A couple days ago the "check fuel cap" warning came on, but goes off if I hit,the odometer button. I got a new gas cap at Reilly's but it seems like a real POS compared to OEM, very light, and the check fuel cap warning still comes on.
2011 F350 6.2L Gas engine. Last fall when I first started using my heat I noticed that the air would only blow through the dash vents. It will not switch over to defrost or floor. I have an XLT I am pretty sure the controls are the basic controls. there are push buttons to change from floor/vent and defrost. I do recall the summer before I had I noticed the problem I would hear a clicking sound in behind the dash. I figured something fell down the defrost vent. I see people who have had this problem on older trucks talking about an actuator. I've looked on ford parts site and I cannot find an actuator listed for the damper door. I was hoping to see what it looks like so I could try and find it in my truck.
I do have the dash pulled apart and I can reach up and manually move a lever that is connected to a cable. and I can change the air outlet to the floor, but I cannot get it to change to defrost. While I have the dash apart I also tried pressing the buttons on the heat control to see if the lever which I am moving by hand is moving at all and it is no. I was thinking if something was stuck in the system I would probably be able to feel the cable at least try to move, but it does not. The white cable which is connected to the lever which I am moving goes into the bottom of the duct work, where it goes from there, but I am assuming some kind of actuator?
This is right in front of the 4x4 shifter
Obviously behind the glove box
With the radio removed
I'm guessing this is 1 of the motors?
I stuck my camera up there to see what was there. This is as far forward as I could go on the drive rside and in front of the 4x4 shifter. You can see the end of the cable I'm assuming that is the door.....
I have a 2011 f250 6.7 and I have a very bad vibration between 40-50 that seems to peak around 45-47. It also starts again at 80+ . the dealer told me they could not find a problem. Then another told me its normal. The tire shop around here told me the tires were shot so I bought new tires. No luck. It does not affect it if I change gears.
2011 f250 4x4 6.7 SWB. 140,000 miles
My 99 250 XL only has heat, and the blowthru vent air which in Florida, might as well be heat also. LOL.
Since the vents and everything is there, what all and how hard would It be? I have an extra dash control that I can put since mine doesn't have the ac option on it
2015 F250 diesel. I am hooking up an air pressure gauge inside the cab to report the pressure on my rear aftermarket air bags. The pressure reading will come from a tap on the actual pressure line, but I need 12vdc to operate the backlight on the gauge. I have found a bundle of loose wires under the steering column, 4 of which are firewall pass-through wires for the upfitter switches. Do one of the remaining wires in the bundle is an accessory power wire? I need a plain key-on accessory wire connection, not a dash-light connection.
I am using one of the upfitter switches to switch my on-board air compressor and a second switch to inflate/deflate the air bags. Want to save the other 2 switches for future use.
2001 Ford F-250 7.3 Lariat, Crew cab, 8 ft bed. Have had the truck since about 2007 and 4x4 has never worked. It has the typical ford "self rotting" vacuum lines (which have all been replaced along with the hubs themselves). Took it to a mechanic a few years back and he n-word rigged it (for a lack of a better word) and bypassed a lot of vacuum stuff and it still didn't work. The weird part is this-- the 4x4 light is permanently on on the dash, even if the switch is in the 2wd position. Flip the switch and nothing happens. No sounds, nothing. No mechanic can fix it and I have yet to find a forum with someone having the same problem. (Worth manual transfer case swapping it?)
View 10 RepliesThe light on dash for 4X4 stays on no mater where the switch is placed I have it in 2 wd and it stays on. Where I need to start looking.
View 4 Replies