2011 F-250 King Ranch, bought new, 59,995 miles. Dealer Serviced, always. ESP to 100K.
Took it in for an oil change, running perfect. Jan 4.
Service writer comes and gets me after 2 hours. "Engine locked up after they went to start it after oil change."
They are getting a remanufactured long block from Ford.
I am still in shock.....
Radio locked up. Dealer says $800 to replace which seems way out of line to me. Are there any aftermarket solutions that retain the Bluetooth phone integration and don't look gawdy once installed?
My radio has the CD player, a digital display and steering wheel controls but no large screen or touchscreen for mapping or backup camera or anything like that.
Or if there is no good aftermarket solution perhaps I would be better off replacing it with a higher end Ford radio with inputs for a backup camera, etc?
We have a 2009 F350 that the engine is now locked up. Anyhow my question is can a 2001 Triton V10 interchange with what was a 2009 Triton V10 both 6.8L...
View 2 RepliesSo I have a 99 F-350 XL, 6.8 2WD, got 268K on it and it's been a great truck, hasn't ever given problem until last June it killed out a PCM, hydrolocked the engine and sent a connecting rod out the oil pan, so I swapped the engine and replaced the PCM and everything has been great, everything that it's equipped with works great, it's a base model truck, used to be a uHaul box truck, and we got it with 239K on the clock.
Well fast forward from last June to this month and it killed out another PCM, so I got one out the JY with the same numbers and all on it, and it ran twice and killed that one too, and it's got me at wits end, since there's literally nothing that blows fuses or DOESN'T work, everything is perfect but it won't stop it's PCM habit. It's only killing them when it's switched on, to narrow things down.
The 2011 have been out for awhile now. How about some of you with the 6.2L engines sharing your gas mileage. I have not seen anything but better than last year's model in advertisements.
View 14 RepliesI was driving to work this morning and my hydraulic clutch linkage messed up on the 1999 f-250 super duty 7.3 with zf 6 speed. It acted like any clutch master cylinder when they go out, the pedal went to the floor and the clutch would not release, but it also became very hard to shove in the clutch pedal, so I speed shifted it without the clutch and made it to work. So I figured no big deal I will swap out the clutch master and slave cylinder complete assembly in the parking lot, except I had to get a ride 30 miles to an auto parts store that had it in stock. I changed out the complete assembly and same problem with the new one, extremely hard clutch pedal, so I did not dare to push it anymore and risk damaging the new cylinders, and left the truck at work. I am thinking broken throw out bearing jammed into the clutch, or dislocated throw out arm causing the problem. The clutch disc, pressure plate and single mass flywheel were replaced by the previous owner 3 years and 15,000 miles ago.
View 3 RepliesIts a 2016 F-250, 6.2L gas truck with the electronic shift on the fly transfer case.
I have put right at 22,000 miles on it like this, frequently at 70-80 mph.
What are the odds I have damaged it and is there anything I should do now that I discovered it - other than put them both in "AUTO".
Truck has been to the dealer twice and not once was this noticed. They blamed the squealing on the brakes which I knew it wasn't.
About a year ago, I had my right rear brake caliper lock up on my F350 dually. The shop said it can happen and replaced both rear calipers. Last week I started to hear something from the rear and within less than a a few days, before I could get to a shop the noise increased and when I looked the rotor had been gouged on the right rear.
I cannot see the left rear rotor to compare as the wheels don't line up on that side to see through. So my question is this. Could it be the caliper failure was a symptom and not the cause. Maybe a proportion valve or something that could affect the pressure on that one wheel.
The steering wheel is locked on my 99 F-350. I messed around with the stupid thing for quite a while this evening and it won't budge! I need it to haul hay tomorrow....
View 13 RepliesWell long story short, I had the the factory hubs in my 04 f-350 and I was driving down the road and it started making this horrible popping noise. So I pulled over and couldn't find anything and just curiosity locked in the hubs and all was fine. Made me think my hubs were bad, so I went and bought the warren premium hubs, installed them. Went for a drive and still the same noise is there when they are in free spin. But once they are locked in its fine. What this could be? Wheel bearings?
View 4 Replies1-11-11 built F250 with the 6.2. 45K miles. Took it to my local HD truck shop to have the code read. The reader said "Evap pressure sensor switch malfunction", "vac above pressure limit wouldn't bleed". He cleared it and it has now come back.
1. Where is said switch located? Is this something I can do as I'm a seasoned wrench but I'm not dropping the tank in my driveway in the winter.
2. Is it in the tank or outside the tank?
3. Has there been any TSBs or recalls on this before I attempt to repair?
I have a 2011 f250 with the 6.7l diesel. Overall it's been fabulous. Descent mileage, and never ending power. The service engine soon light came on the other day. I have checked the fuel and dropped some additive in the tank. Have also checked the air filter which is good. There is a hesitation when giving it throttle. Then it shoots like a rocket.
View 6 Replies2004 F350 150,000km ... I have a rattling/clicking sound from the front right wheel when the hub is not locked (Free) and I hit small holes or run over rough roads. the sound is gone when I lock the hub front hubs.
View 3 RepliesI just bought a 95 f250 4x4 with the 460. The guy i bought it from had a trans slipping towed it to the shop when the shop went to pull it in they started it put in gear and engine died. The motor is now tight w no movement either direction with a bar obo it. Is it possible the trans is holding the motor tight? What can I do?
View 10 RepliesYesterday while traveling about 30mph and starting into a slight left turn the steering wheel locked, when the brake pedal was applied it was rock hard and would not engage braking resulting in a single vehicle crash, no injuries. 8300 miles...
How would I make Ford aware of this incident and get them involved? Is it likely that such events may have been logged somehow in the computer? The truck is at our collision repair shop waiting for an insurance adjuster to inspect.
My brother is having a issue with his 99 F350 diesel 7.3 automatic tranny pu. When in manual 1rst gear the engine stumbles and runs like crap. In drive or 2nd gear it runs fine. He's getting a code for a bad cam sensor. A new OEM and aftermarket sensor has been tried with no solution to the engine problem. What might be going on? Maybe a bad ECM.
View 2 RepliesBut on my 2000 SD V10 the hubs are worn I just cant find which way to turn them to auto ?
I'm getting popping and such so I think I'm locked while turning.
Also.... IS there a way to check the COPS with a multimeter? I think I got a bad one.
Had to make a sharp circular turn last night in a parking lot, with the steering turned to full-lock...noticed a very audible clunking or clicking noise during the turn...went away after full-lock turning was released. My hubs are locked in...but I was told there was no issue with leaving them locked in, even during the summer. And there shouldn't be...4x4 disengaged, of course. Must have been the u-joints clicking / clunking? Problem?
View 5 RepliesJust got done with a ball joint replacement on my 2003 F550, everything went together great, just as it should. Until I got to the drivers side hub lock.
I have Mile Marker 449s/s manual hubs. Turn from free to lock and theres this loud clicking sound about halfway to LOCK (passenger side doesn't do this). Hub will stay locked for about 2 rotations, then it unlocks and makes a clicking sound. You cannot turn the hub back to FREE, it gets halfway and stops. I tried forcing it and broke the spring fingers inside. Have a new set on order.
Is this a locking hub issue or an assembly error? I was going to take these steps.
- Take passenger side hub lock off and see if it operates normally or same on drivers side.
- If same, remove axle and re-seat/re-assemble everything again
Anything to specifically check? All the parts went back in, washers were in correct order, outer snap ring is in groove.
First off I want to say I love my 11 f350 6.3 srw she's a awesome truck. I pull a small 7x14 trailer for my biz..
(3600-400) is the usually weight, I always use my tow feature. One day last week I start out hit my button in go, but I notice the engine braking/down shifting wasn't working. The trans still shifts smooth n normal the light is on the dash but no tow engage.
I check the transmission wire plug to make sure it'd getting a good connection, it does. I take the rubber boot off next to the shifter look at those wires they look ok not pinch or nothing, so I'm stumped.
Looking for some input on a recent "hissing" noise coming from eng compartment. It's only noticeable during initial acceleration, and sometimes at the beginning of gear changes. I am assuming its tubo and/or exhaust related, as I've noticed a strong exhaust odor in the cab as well. I wasn't under load when the problem started but i was under rapid acceleration. Not noticing any fluids or oils leaking. No warning lights have tripped, as of yet.
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