Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2010 F250 - Vacuum Solenoid Not Getting Electricity?
Dec 12, 2015
I have a 2010 f 250 super-duty and i cannot get vacuum past the solenoid mounted on top of the radiator. Ford has given me nothing but bad advice. I know i have a vacuum leak after the solenoid and need to replace the lines going to the two hubs but when i switch on the 4wd and hook up a vacuum gauge the vacuum is good up to the solenoid about 12 inches. i constantly have 12 volts going to the center lead but nothing else in the other two leads either in 4 high, 4 low, or 2wd. Am I missing something here? shouldn't there be a voltage change when i turn the switch to 4wd to actuate the vacuum solenoid to let the vacuum pass thru the solenoid? I have tried replacing the solenoid but that did not work. Also use rubber vacuum line and make at down to the hubs?
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My 2001 F250 will not start (clicks). I verified its not the battery and even tried to jump start it. I have never replaced a starter- but before I do that I read where there is another solenoid under the hood somewhere. I always thought there was just the one on the starter itself.
Two questions:
1. where is that other solenoid located and should I replace that first?
2. How difficult is it to replace the starter? I am pretty handy.
The issue is that I cannot get it towed easily - I just need to get it started at least once since my plow is still installed and it's hooked up to a trailer..
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99 F250 Super Duty 5.4 has a p7147 error. Traced all wiring cant find any short. Bought reman solenoid pack # are f81p-7g391-cb with green cover my old one in trans is f81p-7g391-ba with blue cover. Are these interchangeable? Have tried to read up on pwm & nonpwm and getting confused.
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I have a 2006 F250 Super Duty w/ turbo Diesel. Took to dealership for "hopping" feeling when turning sharp. Was told that 4 wheel drive solenoid was bad. Where this solenoid is located? I know I can fix but want to know where it is located.
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I recently purchased this truck so I don't have any history on it. It's the V10 motor, automatic, 4 wheel drive, with a crew cab. I took it to Advance Auto to have them read codes and it came back with torque converter solenoid fault and 2 other codes related to that part. I didn't get to see the actual code numbers.
I've talked to 2 transmission shops and they said they could throw a solenoid pack into it, but that it might not even fix it. The truck drives fine, shifts fine, the tranny oil looks and smells fine, so I'm tempted to not worry about it until something else happens.
The truck has 217,000 miles on it...
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I have a 4r100 in my 2000 f250 7.3. I am getting a P1746-EPC Solenoid, open circuit. Does this mean this particular solenoid in the solenoid body has failed and should i replace the solenoid body?
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I am in the process of rebuilding my front end and have found that the nipples that screw into the top of the knuckles for the ESOF system are rusted and need replacing. I'd like to keep the system as close to original as possible, but have had no luck in finding a replacement. What the appropriate Ford part number is or where I could pick up a suitable replacement. This would be for a 2001 F-250 4X4 with the V10.
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I recently picked up a '99 F250 Super Duty with the 6.8L V10 for a song.
The 4 wheel drive hubs are not working with the vacuum. If I use the manual lock on the hubs all is well. I ordered the Innova 31703 CarScan OBD2 + OBD1/ABS/SRS Scan Tool. It says it does Trans codes. I am hoping it will cover the 4 wheel drive too.
Maybe related, the heat is always on. Meaning I feel heat at my feet when the temp dial is cold and fan is off. I can't find the heater control valve to check the vacuum line.
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2002 F250 SD 4X4 5.4L. 4.5 inch pro comp lift tire size 305/75/R16. K&N cold air set up. 208,000kms
I know the truck does horrible on gas but lately is been getting worse, maybe I am getting 350km to a tank. Mixed highway city driving. Sounds like I might have a vacuum leak somewhere but I have no engine light. I've had the truck since last year and put about 10,000km. on it done regular oil changes .. brake maintenance no motor work so far.
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2000 6.8 v10 F250 supper duty crew cab. 4x4 high switch's on (manual lock hubs installed) but 4x4 low will not engage. Brake input/out put tested good. Trans switch Park/"N" both test good. PCM reads switch output in all modes, (dash 4x4 selector). The only other issue I am having is the Vacuum is bad ( defrost default no blend door operation). Would vacuum loss prevent 4x4 lo range engagement (with manual hubs ) or should I go to the solenoid, relays on the case/ right fender?
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I have a 2013 F250 which has both the Manual and auto locking hub feature. I tried to plow my driveway this morning and after making one pass I put the truck in reverse and could not back up my steep driveway. The truck is showing locked in 4x4 on the dash, the 4x4 control is in high lock but the front wheels will not turn. It has been very cold here lately (-30) and I'm wondering if the vacuum lines for the auto locking hubs have frozen. I have switched the control out of 4x4 and back in several times, and it does lock in again, but as soon as I put the truck into reverse, they unlock again. The hubs are covered with ice and snow right now so I have not yet tried to manually lock them.
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My 1999 F 250 5.4 liter. I know I have a vacuum leak because whenever I accelerate the air conditioning coming from the vents switches to the defroster. So my question is how do I go about finding the leak? My hubs in the front are manual so I know I don't have lines going up there. I do have some mechanical capabilities I've changed water pumps alternators brakes etc. But never anything with vacuum lines or a/c.
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My starter solenoid keeps dying. I can't use a retail chain part. They burn up in a day. Always Motorcraft and it only lasts a year or so.
Any way to test this thing to see why it burns out prematurely?
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I had a bad starter solenoid on the fender in my truck I swapped it out and then my starter went so I swapped it now it is not disengaging the starter If I turn the key to the run position it starts cranking and fires right up before I an let the glow plugs cycle or anything and it won't disengage the starter I turn off the truck and the starter is spinning loud for a couple seconds till it stops no matter if it just start the truck or start it and run it for a couple minutes then shut it off. 99 7.3L ....
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I just bought a 2010 F250 with a 5.4. It is my 16 year old's 1st truck. He is pretty excited. Really nice truck that drives like a 2016. Anyway, it goes into 4wd fine and works fine. The hubs lock in. Everything works fine until you turn the switch to take it out of 4wd. The only thing that will take it out of 4wd is to back up and then turn the truck off and back on. Then it is fine. Both steps have to be done. I know the backing up part is normal, but what about turning the ignition switch on and off?
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I have a 2010 F250 super duty and I cannot figure out what is wrong with my 7 way for trailer lights. I have brake and turn signals but no tail lights. I have checked all fuses and relays and they are fine.
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My 2010 F250 V10 120000 mile has a sudden loss of MPG. It usually is around 12 MPG but now I'm at 8 I checked the air filter and its clean I checked the tire pressure and there all up to pressure. I'm probably going to try the fuel filter next.
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I have a f350 2000 4x4 automatic 170.000 miles. Service light on and OD light flashing. I have code p1747 "EPC solenoid short circuit"
This code make that the engine runs slow without power and hard shifting. I change all the solenoid body and check all wiring.
Later using a voltmeter i separate EPC solenoid wiring and see that have 5 volt. If I don't accelerate more 2000rpm OD light is not flashing and truck works normal but slow.
When I accelerate more than 2000rpm OD light begin to flash and transmission fail more. I check that EPC wires mark about 0 volts when OD light is flashing. Transmission hydraulic system seems to be ok because oil is very red and clean. Maybe another sensor is making this failure....
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I have been trouble shooting a no crank no start issue for a couple years now. Been back to the dealer several times to no avail. Very long story, with all due respect, don't suggest that I go back to the dealer on this. Not happening. Every once in a while the truck would strand me with no crank no start. It would read trailer brake module fault. Sometimes the security light would flash and the alarm would sound. Recently, I have had it on IDS and noticed that while it was doing this, IDS had no communication to the ECU.
I checked IDS with my other truck and it had good communication with that ECU so I know the computer/IDS works. Pulled battery cables and checked all the fuses... checked ok. Went back in the truck tried it, still no crank. Left key on, popped hood to listen for fuel pump... nothing. Went to pop cover off the fuse block and as soon as I touched it the fuel pump started whining. Went back in the truck and it started. Plugged IDS back in and had good communication and read ECU. I googled around for a part number but came up empty.
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I just bought this Super Duty with a 5.4L engine. I want to do a fluid change on the transmission. From what I read, this transmission needs to be hot flushed in order to change out all the fluid. I have not called my dealer yet to see if they do hot flushes. If my local dealer does not have this machine, can I just drop the old fluid from the pan and be ok? I have not gotten under the truck yet to see if it has an external filter.
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I have a 2010 F250 with 154000km (96000 miles) that we bought last week. When I was looking it over during the purchase I noticed the front axle didn't lockup in "auto", in manual lock it seemed fine so I figured vacuum leak or something like that. Yesterday morning I was in the yard and got a little hung up in snow drifts so just got out, locked the hubs and switched to 4x4 and I think the front end didn't engage at all.
So later on I had it in the shop installing the two way radio and decided to check the front end out a little more thoroughly. Vacuum lines seem fine, hubs turn fine but I notice the axle shafts both move up and down almost a quarter inch, that seems excessively loose to me. I've been doing some research on the internet and it appears the front hubs are serviced as a unit, also some information seems to point to needle bearings within the actual locking hub mechanism itself?
So the questions:
1. Does that front axle shaft seem excessive? What are the specs?
2. Can I replace bearings and seals only or do these units come only as assemblies? Inner hub, outer hub units? Wheel bearings seem fine.
3. With that much play is there a chance the outer axle shafts are worn also?
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