Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2010 Truck Drifted To The Right
Sep 30, 2014
My 2010 6.4 has drifted to the right since I bought it a little over a year ago. I figured it just needed aligning, but knew I would soon have to buy tires so decided to wait and have it aligned when I replaced the tires. Put new tires on last week and had truck aligned but still drifts right. The guy at the tire shop showed me the print out from the alignment and all 4 wheels are within specs. He said he swapped tires around and it's better but still there. Not sure if he swapped front to back or left to right. After reading online, I found that this is a more common problem than I realized. I don't want to screw up a brand new set of tires.
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I have roughly 104k miles. The weather is trying to get colder. Lows of 45 highs of 80 right now. Last week I was accelerating on to the highway and the truck seemed to have trouble shifting. I hit the accelerator and it did not shift. It would continue to increase in speed but very slowly and would even tend to kind of sputter a little. My engine light came on and has gone off and on several times since then. This has occurred several more times and is always when I hit the highway.
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I have a 2010 F250 V10 4x4. about every 3-4 times when you start the truck....it seems as though the starter "sticks". If I catch it and shut it off and then turn the key right back it fires up and does not stick. Its as if the gear is staying kicked out into the flywheel. Are we thinking the starter itself? I'm thinking starter...but looking for input before I crawl under it.
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The problem with my truck is not that its regen'ing too often, the problem is that its STUCK in regen cycle. For the past 4-5 days my truck has been going into regen about 1-2 min after i start driving it, every single time i start her up. If i start my truck in the morning and let it warm up for a few min, i come out and my truck is idling higher then normal and has an increased exhaust smell, but when i aply the brake the idle goes back to normal. Then i start driving up the street and BAM "cleaning exhaust filter" message comes up and the and immediately the sound of the exhaust and induction changes and it sounds like sputtering/knocking.
Sometimes the the engine will flutter in decel or shutdown. HORRIBLE gas mileage, Reduced engine response and power, and white smoke is cooler temps. Basically all of the normal signs of a regen cycle, am i wrong? Im pretty sure its either a dpf sensor or possibly something wrong with the DPF? I haven't had one problem with my 2010 besides an egr valve and she has 167k miles and is completely stock and im very happy with my truck! 2010 6.4L
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Last night I was watching tv when my truck tried to start I thought I hit the remote start on my keys but it didn't start which I found weird. I went down stairs too see if it did anything else and it did it again it would turn over and turn over but never fire all while the keys are in my hand. At the same time the done light was stuck on and the radio went on and off. I'm pretty sure that my GEM got wet through the windshield, also Is the GEM dead or can it dry out and be ok
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I have a 2001 f250 7.3L. I bought it with 192,000 miles and have driven it to 206,000 in the last 6 months. When I put it in gear, the truck will "bog" down and sometimes die. I will have to refill the transmission fluid every 2 weeks but I can't find where it's leaking.
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My 05 superduty is in the shop because it won't shift in or out of 4Hi. Ford garage says I need a new transfer case shift motor, and 4wheel drive module. They said the shift motor was full of oil. I am not really up to speed on how the shift motor works, other than it bolts externally to the transfer case, that's why it confuses me about the shift motor being saturated with oil. My truck has never leaked even a drop of any type oil, ever.
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All the sudden got home and now my truck wont go in park. All other gears are fine. My PRNDL on dash has always been off for the last 3 years park has always shown as reverse its never affected anything! I already checked the torq. bolts and that was not it. My shifter is very sloppy so is my steering wheel. I found a 00 whole steering column with wheel and shifter but its not a early 99 will it work or fix my no park. The guy didnt know if it would fit early 99 or my no park problem.
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Last night my truck wouldnt start. Drove fine all day, started up bunch of different times. Went to go home at night. No crank, everything else works, hear the fuel pump prime windows radio everything. smacked the starter a few times but no change. Checked the fuses and relays, all appear good. So im guessing the starter or the starter solenoid, but I cant find one on the truck just something that looks like it could be it attached to the starter.
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I drive a 2000 F250 XL Super Cab LB 2WD 7.3 Powerstroke. i drive like a grandpa. No rompin on the accelerator or anything. I was leaving the house got up to about 35mph and the truck lost acceleration. Motor still running fine. I coasted onto a side road. Put it in park, killed it, started it again and same thing. Will not go into drive at all. However will go into reverse just fine and accelerate in reverse. Desperately wanting my favorite means of transportation back!
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One day after my mechanic replaced the heater core my truck started to misfire after the motor warms up and is under load. No codes and nothing pops up when hooked up to o a scanner. It's been cold in the morning and when I start it up it runs like a top. But after it warms up it start to miss a little, then it gradually gets worse especially when under a load at higher speeds. I thought it was a vacuum hose or something got left unplugged.
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Any such system in which they can take the key out of the ignition while leaving the vehicle running? I'd like to be able to do this for security purposes of my brand new 2015 250 if I have to run into a store or something of the like. I don't like the idea of leaving the key in the ignition and locking the doors as anyone could break the window and drive off with the truck.
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Removing oem aluminum for oem Steel wheels. After going through two sets of tires, having driveshaft rebuilt for no reason, new shocks, new rotors and pads, I'm 100,000.00 percent positive one of the aluminum wheels is out of round. From 50+ MPH I start getting a shake throughout the entire truck, faster you get it gets a little worse. I can't feel it in my steering wheel though? And if I rotate tires it stays the same, my buddy is giving me a really decent set of steel wheels from his 2003 xl f250 work truck and the local powder coat shop told me 100 per Tire for sand blast primer and then my choice of powder coat. Steel will always be stronger and run truer than aluminum and winter shouldn't be a problem since I do upkeep my vehicle. OR just buy a 16x10 aluminum wheels and FINALLY do my 4" lift with 35's and sell my almost new 285 tires...
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I already reset inertia switch but it still wont start is there a way to by pass the inertia switch...
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Is there any way to make the headlights come on when i unlock the truck using my key fob. The only lights that come on are the inside light and cargo light. Its a 2006 f250 xlt.
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My truck was in 4x4 and would squeal all the time on and off. Here is the situation today, this has happened prior but i just didn't post on here until it lasted for 30 miles on the highway.
4x4 system:
-MM hubs
-all stock minus the hubs
-Pass side vac hose melted against tire (doesn't matter with the MM hubs but too much info is not a bad thing)
-Replaced u-joints in November
-the screeching when not engaged predates the MM hubs that i installed, it occurred when i had my auto hubs locked last year because they would not disengage
Trip:
-average of 45mph
-30 miles from NH to MA (route 3)
-truck was operating up to temp
When it occurs:
-Under Acceleration
-15-45 mph
- when going from stop-30 it makes a hollow tapping noise instead of the screech
- when hubs are locked and t-case is NOT engaged it screeches for about 1 miles and then stops
Sound in the video occurs within the first 8 seconds, its faint in he video but very loud in person. Highway didn't look that bad in the video but i was in a plowed sctretch other than that the last 25 miles were through about an inch of snow and slush.
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When I put the truck into reverse, sometimes the rear park assist sensors go off for no reason, sometimes they work correctly. Is there a way to narrow down which sensor it might be, or just replace the lot?
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So I've been having this problem that sometimes when I am turning the truck dies. It doesn't stutter or anything it just shuts off and will start right back up. It doesn't do it all the time either. Was also having an issue where the windshield wipers would shut the truck off too. But I don't think that's the same problem.
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The other day I was driving to work and I noticed my truck wasn't accelerating right and the transmission wasn't shifting into high gear. Its almost like the truck went into neutral around 2000 rpm. What the issue could be? I really don't want to replace my transmission if I don't have to.
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I have a 2008 f-250 4x4 extended cab, I picked up a set of black rock steel wheels 17x9. I now have 265 70 17s on my truck. will these wheels work and with what size tires.
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I have a 1999 f250 super duty and an old problem has reoccurred , I start the truck and as I put on the windscreen wipers the truck cuts out?
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