Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2010 F350 - Reverse Gear Signal Wire
Jun 15, 2013
I installed a reverse camera to my new Pioneer in-dash nav head unit this morning. I wired (at the rear of the truck) the power signal lead to the reverse wire at the trailer connector. I also need to wire a reverse signal input into the back of the head unit. I really do not want to run a power lead from the rear of the truck to the cab. Is there a wire under the dash I can tap into, or could I use the wire going to the backup alarm that’s somewhere under the dash (if I can find it). 2010 F350 deisel, crew cab, 4WD, long bed.
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Installing a back up camera and need to locate reverse lights on driver's side at rear bumper. What color wire is for the reverse lights on a 2003 F-350 (truck in my sig)?
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Looking for a diagram which wire to tap so I can trigger/run my aux back up light? I tried tapping the existing wire behind the tail light and it didn't work, made the truck do funny stuff like killing the ignition. I had read on here on white knights web site that on the newer trucks you cannot use the back up circuit from the seven pin so I didn't try that. I don't have up-fitters and really didn't want to run a wire to the front but will if that is the best solution.
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I am putting work lights and LED warning lights on the back rack of the 2014 F350 diesel in work. Where are the wires for the upfitter switches, and are they prewired into the fuse box, or do i have to hook them up?
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Went to change the plugs on an 02 f350, the bolt holding the plug wire boot on doesn't seem to fit any standard size socket. 7 is too big, 6 is too small. 1/4 is too small, 9/32 is too big.
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I bought this truck with 60,000 miles and have had about 3 months. I don't drive it very much but when I do I have noticed that when it sets for 4-5 days or longer the transmission makes a weird noise as you take off and does does shift into gear as it does when I use it ever day. The problem goes away very quickly (not even a 1/4 mile driving) and everything is fine after that. By the way I took it to the ford dealer who did a complete 60,000 mile service on it that was suppose to include changing the transmission fluid and filters-could they have screwed something up (I did not notice this issue until after the 60,000 mile service?).
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2004 F350 6.0 Diesel 2WD, Question is my trailor lights running lights work fine also the electric brake, but i have no stop or right or left turn signals the truck signals are all working perfect. The truck came with factory wiring i have checked it at the plug on the bumper with meter to make sure it was not the trailor. Looked for blown fuses and cant find anything what am i missing it should have seperate fuses for trailor lights ??
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I have a 2013 f350 powerstroke, and the other day i climbed in it noticed that with the right turn signal on that it wasn't clicking through the speakers. Then noted that the arrow wasnt lighting on the dash either. But the lights were still working in the headlight and the tailight. but not the mirror, where to start.
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I have a 2005 f350 6.0, my left rear stop signal is not working. I have changed the relay. I only get 5-6 volts at the plug and green-orange wire all the way to the engine bay. Not sure what the problem is????
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I just picked up a 2003 F350 4X4 5.4L it has 130k on it. It drives ok, it doesn't seem to be able to accelerate very quickly and one thing I noticed is when i go into reverse it seems to stutter or feels like it scoots a little bit.
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What color wire controls the high beams?
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It seems its the 4R100 tranny non pto of course and 2wd version. I drove down the rd. after bleeding the brakes, new caliper front right, came home let it idle for about 10 min, shut her down. Went to move it about an hour later, it went into reverse no problem, then when put it in Drive it revved like it was in neutral. There was no banging, no clunking, nothing to make it seem like something catastrophic happened.
I then did a line pressure test and Reverse was fine 200 psi for sure, in drive mode however it was low like around 50 but had to rev real high to get it to 150 like 3/4 pedal and it would want to seem to go forward at a crawl but nothing more. Next I did the obvious and cheked the fluid, it was about 1/4 quart low so added a bit. The fluid did not stink and was beautiful red like new.
I then tried again... no dice same scenario. Then took off the pan, no metal chunks and virtually no dust on the magnet??? Ok so I figure maybe something with the shift valves? Took them all off and the accumulators as well, all check ***** were in place and all valves moved freely.
Now onto the the solenoid pack, checked all per manual for ohms and all were perfect reads at about 27 Ohms, except the EPC solenoid that is the big one on the pack, it should read about 3-5 ohms but this guy is about 12.5 ohms.
I spoke to a tranny shop in town and they said it would not be the EPC and that I could "unplug" the solenoid pack and It would still move forward without it but not to drive like this as line pressure would skyrocket?
Why this thing would have 200 lbs pressure for reverse and so little for forward I mean? that should mean that the pump is working great, if there was a broken something metal I figured I would hear something rubbing or banging or see some shavings? Can this be a "worn out" valve? or gasket issue?
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On a 2000 F-350 with 5.4 engine, where does the vacuum line enter the cab? I got a truck in with no vacuum signal to the heat controls, and it has a slight miss at idle. Both of these are signs of a vacuum leak, but i can not find the line going into the cab.
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On one of the trucks in work, the salt has corroded the truck side plug for the reverse camera in the tailgate. Because of this, the camera no longer works.
Is this part of the whole rear wiring harness, or it the tailgate plug a separate pigtail that can be replaced? If it is a separate part, what is the part number so I can order it?
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My daughter came home a bit ago and told me the backup lights on my '02 F350 were on. Pretty odd because the keys were in my pocket at the time.
When I opened the door to the truck, I noticed a faint electrical smell and noticed the fan for the environmental controls was running as well.
I'm guessing the light issue is probably a sensor or something at the transmission but why would the blower be running as well?
Early last week I finally decided to try and figure out why my cruise control hadn't been working and discovered fuse F2.34 was blown. Replaced it and went through the test procedure described here: [URL] ....
No issues and the cruise is working again. I had to take it on a road trip for work the following day and didn't have any issues for almost 1,000 miles.
I drove it last night and didn't have the issue. I drove it again this morning to several places and everything was fine.
I've got a tuner with a code reader. Would something like the above problem register a code?
I've not stuck my head under the truck yet (it's cold and dark out.) What sensors I might need to check out? Is there a testing procedure available to ID the faulty component?
The battery is disconnected for the night, but I'd sure like to get this thing sorted before I hit the road for work again this week.
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I have a 2003 f350 4WD that studders or skips only when in reverse. I noticed it the other day while plowing. The noise seems to be coming from the transfer case but only in reverse. If I go real easy it won't happen but it will happen if I gas it a little. Happens both with hubs locked or unlocked. BTW it is a manual shift transfer case and manual hubs.
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So, in my 99 Bounder RV (F53 chassis), V10
I think it has a 4R100 transmission in it (I have not verified this).
I had the oil and filter changed about 10K ago.
Runs and shifts fine .... then I stop and idle with it in gear (say stopped in traffic for a few minutes).
Now the thing shifts super hard! I actually get rubber in all gears.
So I pull over, shut it off. Restart the unit and everything is fine again.
It does this very consistently!
I went to the local transmission shop. They said with 110K in an RV it could be anything and I should think about letting them rebuild it.
Now that is something I would do ... not diagnose a problem and just rebuild it. I thought a "professional" would actually look for the problem first.
I don't want to rebuild the transmission if there is small item that will fix this.
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My 2005 f350 reverse lights just started to not work . So I checked the fuse and it was blown and every time I put new fuse in it blows, where to check. Sounds like a ground issue am I correct .
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One of our trucks, 2004 F350 Powerstroke, my company truck, recently the last snow even we had, my tow haul mode would pop on and off almost evertime I shifted from drive to reverse while plowing. I didn't want it on, it just kept poping on and off. Thought maybe the button was stuck, but it moved like normal. My other thought was there is a loose connection in the shifter or column causing it to go on and off.
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Drove the wife to work this morning. The turn off into town there was a lady stuck so I pulled over in the drifts. After putting in back in gear I had to get on it to get out of the drifts. Snow was blowing over the windshield, and I imagine throughout the engine bay.
After that it felt like it stayed in 2/3rd gear. I'd hit the pedal and it would redline and sort of accelerate jumping in and out of gears. So i slowed down to a stop. Accelerated slow and it was ok but when I got more on the pedal it would feel like it was slipping. Once I got in the driveway, she idled for about 15 mins while I shoveled out my spot. Once putting in gear again I had to rev it up for it to move.
Also reverse, had to rev it up to move it.
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Ive got a 04 f350 that after u shift into 4hi or 4lo when u accelerate it it makes loud clunk noise in fwd or reverse hi or lo. With hubs unlocked it still clunks. Have checked, wheel bearings, axle U-joints, and driveshaft joints all good. So I am thinking I've got issues in t-case. Popped drain plug out and wow that dex merc 4 looks nasty. So thinking I need exploded view of transfer case.
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