Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2010 F250 Not Coming Out Of 4wd
Jan 27, 2015
I just bought a 2010 F250 with a 5.4. It is my 16 year old's 1st truck. He is pretty excited. Really nice truck that drives like a 2016. Anyway, it goes into 4wd fine and works fine. The hubs lock in. Everything works fine until you turn the switch to take it out of 4wd. The only thing that will take it out of 4wd is to back up and then turn the truck off and back on. Then it is fine. Both steps have to be done. I know the backing up part is normal, but what about turning the ignition switch on and off?
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I have the infamous P0461 check engine light coming up. I filled it with Techron and even purchased Techron additive with a full tank and it's not going away. I've also replaced gas cap with OEM brand new yesterday and light keeps coming on after 2-10 miles.
Truck is stock. Bone stock. The fuel gauge is reading accurately and not fluctuating or jumping or behaving erratically. I checked all fuses and all fuses are good (under dash and on floor in cabin).
2010 f250 lariat 5.4 V8 4x4 super cab 189,XXX miles.
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I have noticed that the cooling fan is coming on quite often lately. The first I noticed was yesterday when I was towing our boat up to the lake. However, this didn't really concern me because there is an almost 3,000-foot elevation gain from town to the lake, and it was around 90 degrees outside. But, when we got back into town, it seemed to be on often, and sometimes even when the truck is unloaded. Does the fan come on to assist with radiator cooling, or is it primarily for the AC? It's a 2003 F250 with a 7.3. It also comes on most of the time when I first start the truck.
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Got a 06 F250 V8 Gas. Went to turn AC on the other week & got warm air out vents. Put 1 can of 134 in & the gauge on the "kit" said it was in the green. It was working last summer. You can turn the compressor "face" so it's not locked up, but it's not kicking in. Swapped the replay with another one & the 10a fuse in the fusebox under the steering wheel is good. Is that the only ones? I find it hard to believe that it's something serious. We did change the belt a few weeks ago & I was hoping that we had pulled a wire loose. The vacuum line that plugs into the heater hoses is plugged in.
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I have a 2004 F250 with 180K miles on it. About a year ago my truck would smoke pretty bad so I got on here and found I needed to take my FICM off and do some touch up soldering on it in a few places. Did that and everything has been fine until this past weekend when I noticed a little bit of whiteish smoke. Could it be the FICM again or something else. still have power and all gauges are normal. What to check next. Also, I do not have a scangauge, just the stock gauges.
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I've been noticing a grinding coming from the front end of my 2012 f250 4x4, mostly while turning. It seems like its worse over uneven terrain, bumpy dirt roads, things like that, but I have noticed it on occasion while on seemingly smooth roads. Also a couple times while turning and lightly braking I could feel it interfere with the brakes. They wouldn't grab completely and you could feel the grinding in the pedal. I've been crawling around looking for rub marks or any indication of what might be causing it but until recently I hadn't noticed anything. Today though I found this. I'm guessing bad ball joint or tie rod maybe? Maybe just need alignment?
Passenger side lower control arm ...
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I have a bad wobble/vibration coming from front end i think i replaced hub locking hubs u joints truck dont feel safe at all took it to ford they say its normal no way its not just starting doing it few month feels like the 4x4 is in use when hitting bumps when driving if you go slight left or right it seems too make act up more.
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I have a 2010 F250 super duty and I cannot figure out what is wrong with my 7 way for trailer lights. I have brake and turn signals but no tail lights. I have checked all fuses and relays and they are fine.
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My 2010 F250 V10 120000 mile has a sudden loss of MPG. It usually is around 12 MPG but now I'm at 8 I checked the air filter and its clean I checked the tire pressure and there all up to pressure. I'm probably going to try the fuel filter next.
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Just noticed a ticking sound coming from my engine... just turned 160,000. Hoping nothing serious...
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Have a Howling coming from my single gas tank, truck was sputtering now and then. Yesterday it died and would not start. Towed it home and then it started. Think its the fuel pump, Is it tough to change.... 2005 F250 Super Duty109K Miles...
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I had a 2014 F-250 I bought new. Absolutely loved the truck. Things got tight so I decided to sell it yesterday. I'm now looking at a 2005 F-250 with 113k miles. It's got a lift, 37" tires, DPF delete, pretty sure the EGR delete but not sure exactly what to look for under the hood. A ton of LED light bars, SCT tuner, I was told its bulletproofed by a dealer, and it's a king ranch. It runs great. I plan on having a diesel mechanic look it over but here are my concerns. It does have a slight bit of blow by coming from dipstick. Very little. Also a slight oil leak that looks like it's coming from the bell housing so maybe rear seal?
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I have a "rattle/knock" that I think is coming from the doors on my 2000 F250 SD extended cab. The rattle is only there when the truck is going over bumps....especially closly spaced bumps. My buddy has the exact truck and it does not rattle.
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I had have a problem with water coming into my cab on the passenger side only. 2006 Ford F250 SC 5.4L XLT 4x4
My truck has been parked for a few days and we had lots of rain in our area. I notice the floor carpet on the passenger side was wet. I did not use the heater or A/C at any time for the pass month. The water is coming in from under the dash on the passenger side only. I shook the truck and water starts pouring out of this black unit. If you look inside you can see a fan. I'm guessing a heater unit.
Can a drain be clogged on the outside under the wiper guard? I will try to remove the plastic guards tomorrow and see if anything is wrong.
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Our 2009 F-250 in our signature with 53,000 miles on it recently had a transmission episode that has me concerned. We were towing our fifth-wheel camper which weighs around 9000 lbs. We were nearly home on a 275 mile trip. All interstate at speeds of no more than 67 MPH. As I was in the process of exiting the interstate on the last 12 miles of our journey I noticed some smoke coming from underneath the truck. I immediately stopped and got under the truck and noticed transmission fluid running down from the top of the transmission and dripping onto the crossover exhaust pipe.
I let the truck idle for several minutes and it seemed to stop dripping fluid, or at least it had slowed considerably. I took off again being very careful not to gas it up at all, if fact I was very light footed with it from there on home. The ScanGauge II showed the transmission temp. had never got above 186 all the way home and it was at about 185 at the time I saw the smoke. The ambient temperature was around 90 and the truck had not labored at all on the way home. It would do the usual down shifting at overpasses but since I installed the 4.30 gears it doesn't do all that much shifting with the cruise control set on around 65-66 MPH.
I couldn't see where the oil was coming from but it was toward the top of the transmission. The transmission acted perfectly normal in every way even at the time of the dripping.
As I said, I took it plenty easy all the remaining 12 miles home and the tranny temp. dropped down to around 181. I parked the truck and camper on our asphalt driveway and saw no sign of drippage after it was parked. I fired the truck up the morning after this incident and drove it pulling the camper until the transmission temp. got to 185 and came home and parked it on the asphalt again and saw no signs of any leakage.
I checked the transmission fluid level per the instructions in the owners manual and it appeared to be right up to full. I don't believe it was over full. It smelled like it was new without a hint of any burnt odor. I bought the truck with 31,000 miles on it and had the dealer at which I purchased it change the transmission fluid at that time so it should be in very good condition.
I am going into a very busy time with this truck and can't chance any down time if it can be avoided. According to the research I did at the time I purchased this truck the automatic transmissions Ford used in the 2009 F-250 are pretty much bullet proof if maintained properly and not overly abused. This one has been well maintained and I've NEVER abused it. I wanted a manual trans. at the time I bought this unit but could not find one anywhere. I'm not a big slush-a-matic fan and I sincerely hope this one doesn't make me realize my long standing fear of slush-a-matic transmissions.
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I bought my 06 F250 with the V10 just 2 months ago. I have just a hair over 100k miles on it. A few weeks ago I started hearing this low pitched whine coming from the rear end - and my mechanic found metal shavings in the oil for the rear differential. It starts around 15 mph when I accelerate and it kinda sounds like a real low pitched turbo winding down as I come to a stop.
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I have a 2005 Ford F-250 Diesel 6.0 my ac works fine but after working a while the air quits coming out of the vents. It happens every time I go on a long trip with the ac or heater. Is like if a duct damper closes because I can hear the motor blower going. The entire ac system is new but it was doing this with the old system....
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I have a 2003 F250 4wd with a 5.4 and 6 spd and 175,000 miles. Yesterday I came out to start it and noticed it had a ticking noise coming from underneath. According to the stock gauge it had normal oil pressure and the oil looked nice and clean and was full. I checked it while running and was able to verify that it is coming from the bottom oil pan/bell housing area. Before anybody says exhaust leak, I just put on JBA headers a few months ago and verified it wasn't an exhaust leak. I was assuming it was a rod bearing so I figured I would let it get to operating temp and see what happens. Once it started getting warm it started getting quiet and finally it just stopped once it hit full operating temp. Took it for a drive and found that it does it when in gear no matter what but stops when I put it in neutral and let out on the clutch. it makes the noise in neutral with clutch pushed in, but stops as soon as you let it out.
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250 2006 Superduty v10. Codes p2106 and p2135 ... Only occasionally when coming to a stop it shudders like it would stall. It happens for just a few seconds then ok again but wrench light comes on. After the next shut off and start the light goes out. I had the throttle control position sensor checked and they said it was ok. Got a software update at Ford. I hate to just start replacing expensive parts. I have about 60000 miles and it is a great truck otherwise.
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I have a 2002 F-250 7.3. I was driving home from work on Tuesday (highway), I heard an intermittent noise coming from the front end, sounded like a rubbing/grinding noise. Yesterday on my way to wok, same thing, on and off. Yesterday on my way home the noise was constant, didn't go away. The noise comes at about 45mph and stays until I'm back under about 45mph, so mainly just on the highway. I put the truck in neutral and let off the pedal and the noise is still there which tells me it isn't engine related.
Yesterday after work I jacked up the front end, spun the tires, no noise. No play in the tires top/bottom or side/side. Took the tires off and what I did notice is the right axle u-joint is shot. I am hearing the noise in 2wd so I don't know if its the u-joint that's making the noise. Could it be a bad wheel hub bearing? Is it the u-joint? Maybe needle bearing??
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I have an 06 f250 6.0 when I'm driving and let off the throttle and coast I hear a rattling sound like a spray paint can being shaked sounds like its coming from engine compartment.
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