It seems that my 2010 F250 truck has come down with the dreaded death wobble. My truck is stock and has 63k miles. I was driving home today on a 2 lane side road and hit a few bumps that almost put me into the oncoming traffic. That sure did get my attention! I've been ready a lot on this site and wanted some opinions if replacing the stock steering stabilizer would fix my problem.
View 14 Replies1999 F-350 7.3 Dually 2wd Front End issues. I think I may have several things going on so here goes. Truck has about 130,000 miles on it . Bought it with 60,000 miles in 2009.
It's always worn the front tires weird but it's gotten a lot worse and it's happening in about 10-15 thousand miles now. It's wearing the tires on both sidewalls like under-inflation but I run 70 lbs in them. I've noticed for several years now that it makes a knocking sound and I feel it in the floorboard, shakes in the steering wheel when I turn to the left only in a corner at speed. (65-70) ...
Now it's started intermittently going into the death wobble at slow speeds like the caster is to negative on it. I'm sure it could use some shocks but I just rotated the tires and I felt no play anywhere. I know when we used to get that bumping in the floor board on older Fords it was a bad radius arm bushing but that couldn't be all of what's going on here. I've done searches on this and it has happened to others but I haven't found a resolution from any yet.
My 05 F20 CC LB 6.0 4WD has the alternator light on for a few miles then goes out also sometimes goes away when you accelerate hard, is my alternator going, or is this some common glitch in the light hopefully?? Also every once in a while got the death wobble, installed tie rod ends and center link, but if I hit a bump just right it does it.
View 2 RepliesI put new ball joints on a few months ago and now the truck is starting the death wobbles felling even around slight bends in the road.I jacked it up and the passenger side tire will move 1" side to side scarey.Not sure what I need to replace.
View 9 RepliesI'm getting a nasty wobble from about 45mph - 60mph. I'm guessing it's time to start replacing front end components. So far, the only thing I've ever replaced in the front end are the sway bar bushings. I have a new steering gear / box to install; I plan to replace wheel bearings, ball joints and tie rod ends. Is there anything else I should replace while I'm in there?
1999 F350 4x4 7.3L auto trans, 150,000 miles....
I recently bought some used rockstar 1s off a buddy, installed new tires, balanced, put tapered lug nuts on and I'm still getting a slight vibration above 40mph. Do I need hub centric rings? XD says no, I think I do.
View 2 RepliesMy truck has developed a wobble in the steering wheel. I don't mean when you are driving down the road, but the steering wheel wobbles around. It wobbles in any position that the Till shaft is set to. How to repair.
View 10 RepliesIve had this 2009 F250 4x4 Super Crew, 6.4 for 2 years now. Bought it the way it sits with a 6" ProComp lift and 37" Yokohama Open Countrys. Recently, once I get up to 40-45 mph, the rear end starts vibrating violently until I speed up or slow down. There isn't any clanking noise and it's silent. I look in the mirrors to see if it's the tires but they appear to be rotating smoothly. It's never done this before. It's like a tire is out of balance but it shakes much harder than that should be at that speed. It rides smooth as can be at any other speed all the way up to 80 mph which is the faster than i drive. What this could be? I've done searches but can only find info on the front end death wobble which is not the case here.
View 4 RepliesSo I've got a 2000 F350 7.3. Just replaced all the ball joints, sway bar end links, carrier bearing, balanced the tires... a bunch of stuff to try and eradicate this weird wobble I have and I just can't seem to figure out what it is.
The wobble happens at and around 35mph, and then once I break 70mpis on the speedo (I have a 4" lift and am running 35's so it's not actually 70). I've experienced death wobble before in a jeep I had, and it is nothing like that, and I can't see it being driveline related but I could be wrong.
I have an 09 F350 (116,000 miles) that I have only owned for about 3 months. I got it pretty cheap but it did have a front end issue. Drives fine most of the time but hit a bump just wrong at highway speed and it goes into a shake and wobble that feels like you just blew a front tire. Took it into my shop, not the dealer and was told I pretty much need a front end rebuild. Kinda what I figured I would hear.
View 4 RepliesI purchased the truck from a used car lot about 3 months ago and after driving for a few thousand miles I am feeling a slight wobble after hitting a bump in the road. Here is my truck set up:
- 2011 Ford Lariat F250 4X4 FX4 6.7 ltr
- 67400 miles
- Tires stock and great tread
- Rancho steering stabilizer kit
- Rancho Shocks
- Rear air bags
It does appear one of the rancho stabilizer dampers is leaking slightly. Why would the previous owner install a rancho stabilizer kit? Is it because of the rear air bags?
Got the death wobble, had everything replaced. Wobble was worse, upgraded track bar. Then no wobble but bad bump steer. Put on new OEM track bar.
Ok but still if I hit a hole on the interstate I get death wobble and little mini wobbles on any bump. What is the permanent fix for this other than selling the truck?
2011 6.7L FWD Lariat, upgraded exhaust and Def removed.
I just bought a 2010 F250 with a 5.4. It is my 16 year old's 1st truck. He is pretty excited. Really nice truck that drives like a 2016. Anyway, it goes into 4wd fine and works fine. The hubs lock in. Everything works fine until you turn the switch to take it out of 4wd. The only thing that will take it out of 4wd is to back up and then turn the truck off and back on. Then it is fine. Both steps have to be done. I know the backing up part is normal, but what about turning the ignition switch on and off?
View 3 RepliesBrake issues on 2005 F250. About 3 years ago during vehicle inspection the garage stated I need all for rotors on my F250. I had @40,000 miles at the time. Garage said rotors are a onetime use, no recutting them. So I got all new rotors. Prior to then I never even felt a wobble indicating they were warped. Anyhow now with 15,000 miles on them I have a huge wobble when I get on the brakes and it's 5x pronounced when pulling a trailer. I assume more warped rotors. If so, why? I pull a camper or car trailer maybe 7-10 times a year.
Now currently I am assuming its warped rotors because I have not had it "professionally" checked. I did have one occasion last August pulling the camper where I smelled the brakes being hot. The pedal got soft. After cooling it seemed ok and I flushed the old fluid and put in new. I have about 4100 miles since then and the warped feel just started about a month ago. I hate the thought of new rotors as I paid for new Ford rotors 3 years ago. Didn't want the Chinese crap from the box stores. I can't imagine how these would warp this bad after less than 15,000 miles, they are massive. Why they would so quickly?
I have a 2010 F250 super duty and I cannot figure out what is wrong with my 7 way for trailer lights. I have brake and turn signals but no tail lights. I have checked all fuses and relays and they are fine.
View 4 RepliesMy 2010 F250 V10 120000 mile has a sudden loss of MPG. It usually is around 12 MPG but now I'm at 8 I checked the air filter and its clean I checked the tire pressure and there all up to pressure. I'm probably going to try the fuel filter next.
View 2 RepliesHad the death wobble a couple of months ago. Changed all shocks, steering stabilizer to bilsteins; new tires (stock), ready lift stabilizer(stock, no lift) had it digitally aligned. All was perfect. Until my new intermittent steering issues. It appears to happen when making a 90 degree turn, say a right or left onto a perpendicular roadway. As truck straightens out, you'd think the front drivers side wheel is going to fall off(you'd think the lugs are missing).
Pull int a parking lot, drive in a few circles, and all back to normal. Can't replicate every time, force for s few days with no issues, then it might happen again. Other intermittent issue is sometimes, again out of no where, truck will pull and track to the right or left. Pull the steering wheel the opposite direction, it'll track the other way. Again, pull int parking lot, do a few figure eight circles and back to normal. Alignment shop and regular mechanic say everything is tight, ball joint look fine.
I have been trouble shooting a no crank no start issue for a couple years now. Been back to the dealer several times to no avail. Very long story, with all due respect, don't suggest that I go back to the dealer on this. Not happening. Every once in a while the truck would strand me with no crank no start. It would read trailer brake module fault. Sometimes the security light would flash and the alarm would sound. Recently, I have had it on IDS and noticed that while it was doing this, IDS had no communication to the ECU.
I checked IDS with my other truck and it had good communication with that ECU so I know the computer/IDS works. Pulled battery cables and checked all the fuses... checked ok. Went back in the truck tried it, still no crank. Left key on, popped hood to listen for fuel pump... nothing. Went to pop cover off the fuse block and as soon as I touched it the fuel pump started whining. Went back in the truck and it started. Plugged IDS back in and had good communication and read ECU. I googled around for a part number but came up empty.
I just bought this Super Duty with a 5.4L engine. I want to do a fluid change on the transmission. From what I read, this transmission needs to be hot flushed in order to change out all the fluid. I have not called my dealer yet to see if they do hot flushes. If my local dealer does not have this machine, can I just drop the old fluid from the pan and be ok? I have not gotten under the truck yet to see if it has an external filter.
View 6 RepliesI have a 2010 F250 with 154000km (96000 miles) that we bought last week. When I was looking it over during the purchase I noticed the front axle didn't lockup in "auto", in manual lock it seemed fine so I figured vacuum leak or something like that. Yesterday morning I was in the yard and got a little hung up in snow drifts so just got out, locked the hubs and switched to 4x4 and I think the front end didn't engage at all.
So later on I had it in the shop installing the two way radio and decided to check the front end out a little more thoroughly. Vacuum lines seem fine, hubs turn fine but I notice the axle shafts both move up and down almost a quarter inch, that seems excessively loose to me. I've been doing some research on the internet and it appears the front hubs are serviced as a unit, also some information seems to point to needle bearings within the actual locking hub mechanism itself?
So the questions:
1. Does that front axle shaft seem excessive? What are the specs?
2. Can I replace bearings and seals only or do these units come only as assemblies? Inner hub, outer hub units? Wheel bearings seem fine.
3. With that much play is there a chance the outer axle shafts are worn also?
How to change my map light bulbs over the front seat of my new (to me) 2010 F250 King Ranch with a sunroof. I have tried to remove the whole assembly with a plastic trim tool with no success. I have pulled as hard as I dare and figure there must be a procedure I am missing. It appears to me that the whole assembly has to be pulled down.
View 6 Replies