Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2010 F250 Diesel - Heater Blows Cold Air
Sep 23, 2013
The heater blows cold air from the driver side only. Very cold. Vey hot on passenger side.I have read that this is likely a blend door issue. Comments? Fluids are full. I hear slight noises from under the dash like "click click" like a door is trying to activate?? Truck out of warranty. If it is the door I heard the driver side is not as tough to install. Again comments? Instructions?
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I've got a 2005 F-350 PSD KR. At highway speeds I get heat coming out everywhere it should. In stop-and-go traffic or at idle, the fan just blows cold air. Once back up to speed, hot air starts blowing again.
The fan stays running and the heat position (lower/upper-vents/defrost) stays the same. Just the temperature of the air blowing thru changes.
Things I know it isn't, thermostat is fairly new, anti-freeze is topped off, and the radiator cap is both good and on like it should be.
It sounds like maybe the blend-door or a vacuum leak according to a few of the posts I found with similar symptoms.
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I have a 2011 F250 with ac problems. When you start it in the morning and turn the ac on it only takes a small amount of time for the air to start cooling. If you turn the truck off then start it again after driving to town the ac blows hot air out up to 4 minutes (yes I timed it) before it starts cooling. I took it to a local repair shop and the first time they said it only had half the freon it needed. The charged it and off I went. Same problem. The second time they informed me the fan clutch was not engaging and replaced it. I picked it up and the first time it was turned off and back on it had the same problem. I am scheduled to take it back to the same repair shop on Monday.
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I am the proud owner of a 2002 F250 Super Duty 4x4, which has 158K miles on it. I live in South Florida and use the truck as my daily driver and also from trips up into the Blue Ridge Mountains.
Recently, I noticed that when I have the A/C on it blows nice and cold for about 15 minutes, but then the air gets really warm. I had the system checked and the Freon levels are right where they should be. A bit of experimenting reveals that if I turn off the A/C for about 10 or 15 minutes after it starts to blow warm air, the systems blows cool air as it is supposed to.
Therefore, I suspect that something is freezing under the hood and preventing the system from operating properly. Since A/C is pretty well essential for us in south Florida, this is a problem, when I have the family or customers in the truck.
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I can't seem to get the engine temp to middle range on the marker, but yet my heater blows "to me" hot air. Even while sitting in idle for extended amounts of time I cannot get it to "operating" temperature. I would think if my thermostat was stuck open my heater would blow either cold or slightly warm air. I have the 5.4L engine with knn air filter and no cats.
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Cold no start goes nowhere. I have a 2001 7.3 that will not start in the cold if I forget to plug it in....like last night. I have to plug in the block hater and give it a while before it will start. I tested the glow plug relay,it works fine. I can not find a test for the fuel bowl hear, and I'm not one to throw parts until I accidentally fix it. Any test procedure for the fuel bowl heater? Why this POS is so bad in the cold? Glow plugs tested fine at diesel shop in December, and this problem has been around since before that.
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I have a 2006 f250 and the heater will blow cold air unless you are driving in like highway conditions. If you stop or drive slow it blows cold air only. What is causing this???
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So my heater works when I'm rolling down the highway. When I'm at about 20 mph or less it blows cool air. Also when it's just idling it blows cool air. What I might have an issue with?
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When I cold start my 99 F250 7.3L PowerStroke extended cab long bed manual, I get diesel smell in & out of the cab. What is causing it?
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2007 F350 Dually, 6.0L
AC will blow cold, then shift to blowing warm, muggy air, then back to cold. Seems to be some relationship with throttle movement. Cruising steady ac seems normal. Multiple throttle shifts in changing traffic seems to trigger the warm air. Once accelerate back to normal cruise, can feel clutch/compressor shift and blows cold again.
Any ideas? I have read a possible cause can be the ac clutch can wear and need to remove spacers? Is this a DIY job? What about the ac clutch relay switch? On reading an online repair manual, seems that the clutch is magnetic, and if no battery power to clutch, it removes itself from compressor?
Just had an EGR delete kit installed. Any relationship to this and ac problem?
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I just bought the truck and the ac was working and now out of nowhere when you turn it on it just blows hot air so I just assumed it was out of free on so I bought an ac pro but that did nothing.
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The truck starter and radio would magically turn on and off after the first rain, it was hard on the starter and I had to replace the starter and the cause of that problem was the vacuum line coming from the brake booster running over the top of the wires in the 4 plugs attached to the driver side fender. It rubbed through exposing the wires and got wet connecting them. I cleaned them and put the electrical tape silicone and then it has been working fine for a couple months.
Now every time I try to start fuse #20 blows. So far I have traced the wire that goes through fuse 20 through the firewall being the blue wire with a orange stripe on it it goes through the top plug upper left most wire. From there I followed it through the 4 wheel fender plugs the furthest plug from the firewall still being the blue with orange stripe. If I unplug that plug and try to start the truck it won't start but the fuse does not blow.
I then followed that wire all the way to the neutral safety switch. I hate tracing wires. (About 8 hours so far). I am thinking neutral safety switch. Also another thing I am thinking is weird is that blue wire with the orange stripe is grounded when the safety switch is plugged into the transmission and if it is unplugged is is not grounded. And I don't think it is supposed to be grounded because that is the hot wire when the key is in the start position.
Details about the truck : 1999 f250 diesel 7.3 super duty automatic 4x4 dated 4/99
I have taken pictures of the plugs and wires I was going to post it but don't remember how.
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Is there a filter for the AC somewhere?
2001 F-350 gas
The air blows cold but it smells like something died in side it somewhere.
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I have a 2003 f250 xlt with the 5.4l engine in it and lately my AC hasn't been standing up to the heat of the Midwest. When driving around town or on the highway my AC blows really cold but at idle you can tell a drop off in temp. Is this normal due to extreme heat or is there something I can do?
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I just recently purchased my 06 Ford F-250 it's got the 6.0 in it once I made a 6hr trip I've noticed once you warm it up and ride a little bit kill it let set for 30min or better and crank it up it blows white smoke for a min or two than on the way to work this morning my heater.
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2006 F250 with the dash controlled 4x4. I typically keep the front hubs locked on this truck. I have recently noticed that when shifting into 4x4 that the a/c or heat will switch from blowing out of the vents to blowing out of the defrosters. Any clues how to fix this?
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Recently got a 2003 f 250 6.0 that has had a little work done on it. Absolutely love it with 1 exception. When I turn on the ac or heat It blows a 10 amp fuse that goes to the blower relay. It was occasionally now it's all the time.Blower ok, fan speed resistor ok. What or where to look.
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I got my 1999 f250 super duty v10 about a month ago. It had 200,700 some miles on it. It's now at 201,865. My issue is when I turn on my heater I smell coolant. It's kinda strong. No leaks that I can see. Not in the ground or in the cab or from what I can see of the heater core. It only smells when the heat is on, no smell on the cold setting. It sat for months before I bought it from a dealership. What it could be? Ok now it sounds like I have the ticking death sound. The one people have said happens when spark plugs are about to fail. So I guess new plugs are in order.
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2001 F250 5.4. The heater will blow warm air at idle and on the second highest setting, once you start moving or turn the fan up to full blast it instantly cools off. The coolant level is fine. The engine runs at a normal temp.The blend door does work. I just replaced the thermostat, and both hoses for the heater core are hot.
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I recently replaced my heater core on 2001 F250. Would be a simple job if it weren't for the quick connects on the hoses. Any tool to take these apart on the truck where space is limited?
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I bought the wife a truck a few weeks ago and she said the heater wasn't working well and was noisy. So I hoped in it at lunch today and she was right, barely any heat output and its noisy coming from behind the passenger airbag.
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