Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2009 F250 6.4L - Stuck In 3rd Gear - Got Tranny Codes?
Jun 7, 2014
I have an intermittent problem with my 09 F250 Diesel. A few times now under hard acceleration I have had the trans seemingly get stuck in 3rd gear. The little service required wrench symbol showed up on info screen but after shutting off the engine no codes were present. A week or 2 later this happened again and I ran diagnostics through my Spartan tuner and got P0771 and P2704 for codes.
Again they cleared when I shut the engine off. Since this is an intermittent problem, only after hard acceleration, would it make sense to change tranny fluid, maybe do a tranny flush? Or am I off to the dealership for a rebuild?
2009 F250 Lariat Crew Cab Short Box
Spartan DashDaq
S&B Cold Air Intake
4" Flange-back w/6" Can
Package by Dirty Diesel Customs-Red Deer Alberta
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My father has a 2009 Ford F-250 Superduty with the 5.4l V8. Two days ago, he frantically woke me up from a nap because he could not get the truck out of park nor are the brake lights turning on when the pedal is pressed. I instantly thought Shift Interlock, did a quick google search and found that it can be the shift interlock or brake light switch on the brake pedal. I have since then replaced both to no avail as well as checking all fuses. I put a multimeter to the brake light switch connector and am getting a steady 10.2v. I am aware there is a bypass switch but that doesn't address the fact that he has no brake lights.
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i have p0750 shift solenoid A error and p0733 gear 3 ratio error and i was woundering how i fix them problems
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I have a older minimax with the latest updates and have noticed that under full acceleration the tranny seems to rev up faster than the truck is accelerating. This occurs i think in 3rd gear like accelerating onto a on ramp etc. Kinda like its slipping if you know what I mean. I'm running the mild tunes in tow mode. Everything else seems ok.
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So out of nowhere, my tranny started over heating. Got up to 210. It usually runs in the 140-150 range. I have the 6.0 cooler, and 7500 miles on the synthetic fluid. My cooler lines to the radiator were ice cold. I crimped my bypass and this seemed to fix it a little (I know this is a no no), I did the flow test before driving it and it passed. It seems to heat up the most at stop lights in gear. It drives fine, no slipping, no chattering. I also dropped the pan, had some stuff on the magnet, replaced the filter too. It doesn't seem to heat up as bad now, goes to about 190. I will install the new bypass tomorrow when it comes in from the ford dealer. Whats causing the heat? BTW truck has a 4" lift with 35's no other mods.
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Heard a 2011 F250 gaser while driving in the morning just falls flat on its face, almost like its starving for fuel as well as it feels like the tranny is slipping too. What this could be? I am not sure if its electrical or what.
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I have a 1990 F250 with a 7.5 liter and an E4OD. It starting acting up a couple months ago. Tranny would seemingly go into neutral while on freeway. I figured trans was going out... After reading several threads I've decided to try changing the mlps first, got a new one at the dealer!!!. It is the updated one with the connector on the top. I'm currently waiting on a new pigtail from autozone (the original is in bad shape, wires frayed, insulation missing. Also I think when it started having issues we were having some serious rains, which may have caused this connect to get wet.
I believe a previous owner may have had the trans rebuilt at some point. The connect has 6 wires going in it and when I trace those wires back, two are spliced into one farther up the harness a bit. Looks like one is tied into a wire that goes to the solenoid harness. I'm hoping I can cut and splice the 6 wires into the new pigtail and be good.
For now, while I was under there I decided to pull the solenoid plug as instructed to make access to mlps plug easier... the lock is on the backside almost impossible to get to, I messed the plug up all the way around, but not fubarred. When I pulled the plug out, it was soaked in transmission fluid... Is that normal?
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Changing tranny fluid/filter today, all has been going great until I went to take the filter o-ring out that didn't come with the filter. It will not come out! made a hook tool out of an old tooth brush like someone on here did, o-ring wont budge. Tried a hook pick, it wont dudge (actually bent the tip on the pick and started to tear the o-ring). Everything is ready to go back together and get filled, but this stupid o-ring will not come out!
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Just bought my first Ford. Its a 2015 F250 Platinum. Im at 1400 miles and Im becoming concerned because when I start the truck for the first time in the day, no matter how long I let it sit and warm up I am noticing that on the first couple of miles of driving I hear a high revving sound as I accelerate and it seems to quick shift during those first few miles.
As I continue to drive the high rev sound just fades away and all engine sounds and shifting are as normal as can be and will remain that way until the truck has been sitting for an extended period of time and is cold. I thought it had something to do with tranny temp but this morning I let the tranny warm up to about 115 deg in neutral before taking off but still had the high rev for the first few miles. I have never owned a ford nor have I ever owned a heavy duty truck, hoping this is normal.
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05 5.4 F250 4x4. Keep getting those codes. Can't find any vacuum leaks. swapped rear O2 sensors. Fuel filter twice in last 11k miles last time was 1k ago. Will the 430 code cause the lean codes from a bad cat? I've been getting the 430 code for at least 4 mo's.
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My Ford 250 is currently stuck in park, it starts but I can't move the shifter. It sounds like it is a fuse issue from what I have read, but I bought the truck at an auction and I don't have a book. Do the brake or parking brake fuse? And where is it located? I know there is a panel under the hood and under the dash, which fuse to look for. It's a 2008 extended cab gas model.
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2011 250 run fine when parked it Friday jumped in it Monday morning got a check traction control light on will not shift out of park no break lights replaced break switch all fuses are good.
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My defrost is stuck no matter which way I turn the control it won't come off. It just started doing this today. I think it might be a vacuum leak. When I turn my switch on the pump still clicking whether or not it's pumping.
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I have a 2006 F250 V10 that has this issue most of the time but not all the time. Start her up, foot on brake and the shifter wont move. I use the bypass method to get her moving when this happens. It seems to be doing it more often lately. Also I recently has a cruise control issue. Hit the brake to shut it off and it doesn't stop it! Not sure if the 2 are related. The internet said I need to replace the switch on the master cylinder to fix the cruise control. I got lots of different stories on the park issue.
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My 2013 F-250 Super-Duty periodically won't start or come out of park. I have tried the ignition trick of tuning it to first position but with no luck. Sometimes I can see the light for the indicating light for being in park flashing on and off rapidly and manage to get it into neutral to start. It appears to be completely random. I potentially happens when I drive it for longer periods or do frequent stops around town.
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My 2005 f250 5.4 with codes p0171 and p0174. I have replaced fuel filter, MAF, Checked for vac leaks by smoke and water test.
I don't have a way to check fuel pressure on this thing since it must have been to much trouble to put that test port on the fuel rail!!!
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Where to start. Have had to replace a few COP's in the past and replaced all spark plugs 20k ago. Truck runs rough at idle and sometimes stalls when changing gear. Strong exhaust smell when sitting idle. If I put my foot in it there is hesitation. Engine seems to smooth out quite a bit but also seems like it's getting more power in stages. Codes P0426 and P0345 ....
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Ok so my F250 died last night. I read the Pcodes and came up with P2198 and P0506. I am pretty good with fixing the truck but need to know exactly what is wrong.
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Finally finishing up my 2001 F250SD 4X4 project. Decided to pull down the front axle to replace the dust seals. I've got everything apart including the large knuckle seals. Tried to pull the passenger side axle out but it only moves about an inch to an inch and a half before it stops. Took off the differential cover to look for damage or something obvious but I don't see anything wrong. The axle is moving within the splines of the spider gear but that's it. Stumped and sitting on jacks!
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So I just got an 01 f250, 5.4. Really loving this truck so far. Noticed as I was driving my gas gauge is stuck at full. One time it randomly dropped down to about half tank where I think it should be, but it jumped back up to full. Anything to suggest trying? I tried nailing a speed bump to knock the float loose at 30 and I'm not sure if it worked. Gauge goes to E when I shut the truck off, but as soon as I turn it on it jumps up to full. Should I try hitting the tank with a mallet?
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I am a few DAYS into a project changing my ball joints on my 2001 F250SD 4wd.
Latest issue is I can't get the brakes back on. One of the pistons was pressed out making replacing the calipers onto the rotor impossible. Fiddling with things has only made it worse.
The higher piston is stuck extended, and the other piston doesn't even budge.
The truck is our only vehicle, and I have been working on it since Tuesday night. It looked like it was going to be done today, but I can't put it all back together now.
That piston will not move. I've tried opening the bleeder and taking a clamp to it but all I get it a few more drops of fluid, no visible movement.
A while ago it looked like this. I got it to move in a little, but it is firmly stuck.
I'm wondering if I can pull it all the way out and clean/sand polish it. Can I use a quick-clamp on the rubber section of brake line to isolate the calipers so I can pull the piston out without draining all the brake fluid from higher in the system? And what do I do about the other piston that doesn't seem to be moving at all? Grab with big pliers and twist/pull?
Some of us just have a knack for finding layer upon layer of problems on projects...
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