Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2009 F250 5.4L - 2 Misfiring Cylinders
Dec 10, 2013
I have a 2009 f250 with 5.4l 3v. have had the truck only about 6 months. it started missing about a month after I got it. I replaced all 8 cops and all 8 sp. The truck ran excellent until 11/29, then I got a cel and the truck started running really bad. Found 3 misfiring cylinders. Changed all 3 cops again and that did nothing. Pulled the injectors and found 2 of them were clogged, replaced those also. Still no change was told by someone that the ecm/cpu may need to be reset, did that also. Still no change. There are no codes present but still has the multiple misfires.
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I just bought a 99 F250 Super Duty with the V10. When I bought it, I knew it had 2 misfiring cylinders (4 and 10) because it was throwing P0304 and P0310 (only 2 codes), but wasn't concerned as I've had to take care of my wife's Escape with it's misfiring cylinders. I replaced the 2 coils and replaced the plugs with Motorcraft plugs from O'Reilly's, cleared the codes and she ran fine for a couple of days. Now I'm getting an intermittent misfire, it's only occasionally throwing a pending code of P0300 which is "Multiple Random Misfire".
I'm fairly certain it's an issue on the electrical side because if it were an issue with the injector or injectors it would be constant regardless of RPM... right? As it is now, it basically does it between 55-65 while in overdrive trying to pull a hill or slightly accelerate. Once it's shifted out and the RPMs go up to 2k+ it runs like a champ... and it kills my fuel economy. The way it's behaving is just like when a coil is bad, but it's saying it's not identifying a specific cylinder (saying it's multiple) and it doesn't always do it (about 60% of the time).
I checked the MAF and it's very clean (looks almost new), checked the vacuum lines (those I found without a manual) and couldn't find any leaks and when I changed the plugs all the plug wells were dry.
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I have a 2012 F250, 6.2L, Crew Cab, FX4 with a little over 77,000 miles on it. I bought it used from a Ford dealership last summer. Prior to now, I've only had one issue with it and that was squirrel/rodent induced. Something chewed through the wiring harness right before the connection to the #7 cylinder. There was enough left over wire to solder it back together and put heat shrink around each wire.
It ran fine up until last weekend. The wife and I went to a store, she was driving and parked like a total jerk right in the front area of the parking lot. When we got back in the truck, she started it up and it was just running rough with hardly any power. My first thought was someone dumped something into the gas due to her amazing parking, but there were no smells or residue of anything near the gas cap when we got home only a couple miles away.
When I got home I ran my code scanner and found 300, 301, 305, 307, and 308. I dumped a bottle of ISO-Heet in it, let it sit for a bit then cranked her up and ran it for a few miles to the gas station and filled up...about 25/26 gallons, I don't remember...I was a little above 1/4 tank when this all started. No change in performance and the codes were all still the same. I pulled the MAF, it looked clean, but I wiped it down anyways and threw it back in. No change. I then changed all the plugs. This took care of 301 and 305 but 300, 307, and 308 were still coming up. I then picked up two new coil packs for cylinders 7 and 8, threw them on and still no change.
I sat with it running on a flat surface for a little while revving the engine randomly for about 15 minutes, during this I noticed a fast tapping noise at about 3400 RPM, it went away quickly with no changes in the gauges on the dash. I cant really tell where it's coming from, but kinda sounds like its under the middle of the truck. While sitting there I ran the codes again, and now its back to 300, 301, 307, and 308. I'm now at a loss of what to even look at...
I've also checked the voltage coming off the harness at the connector to the coil packs...just under 11 volts. I've searched all over for what that voltage is supposed to be, but have failed miserably in my searches.
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SO this truck came into the shop yesterday with a really bad misfire. pulled the codes and got a misfire codes for cylinders 1-6 and also p1450 (unable to bleed fuel tank vacuum) and p068a (pcm/ecm power relay de-energized too early) i found a TSB related to the issue, TSB 10-25-7 i did as the tsb told me to do and pulled valve covers to check out the rocker shaft rollers and inspect for any signs of surface deformation or fatigue. they were fine on both sides.: ive got spark in all cylinders. fuel pressure was right around 55-60 the gauge was fluctuating pretty good. checked for bad fuel or water in fuel ect. fuel seems to be good. pulled O2s incase of plugged cats still ran like crap.
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I've got a 2015 F250 with a 6.2 Liter with no compression on 3 cylinders. The dealer just diagnosed it and has not opened it up yet but the mechanic says it is probably a broken valve spring...that it is not uncommon in this engine.
My concern is not repairing the spring my concern is what a "free spinning" piston in 3 cylinders does to the life expectancy of the main and connecting bearings in this engine. I have rebuilt engines in the past and I have bought re-built from auto parts stores and from Jasper and I have never had any last more than 60-70K miles. It seems to me that even with very little mileage on the engine with three of eight pistons jumping around under no pressure that there could be considerable scarring of the bearings or bearing surfaces. I am no expert by any stretch but this is an engine in atruck that has less than 22K miles on it and I ain't real happy about opening it up let alone trusting for the next 280K miles that the bearings have more wear on them than they should have. It was only driven about 20 miles total like this but that is a lot of pressure on a highly tuned and pretty darn precision machine.
This is the newest vehicle I have owned since 1988 and I meant for it to be the last pickup I drive (I drive 'em til the wheels fall off) but I am not overly confident that even if this is a one off problem that it hasn't caused even more damage that won't show up for another 100K miles or so???
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I have a 2000 ford f250 5.4 2v that's been having a shaking at idle and no power what so ever. I tried diagnosing it myself and came up with nothing. I finally decided to take it to the dealer and they are telling me that the right side has no compression on 3 cylinders. They want almost 7000 for a new engine. I was wondering if it was possible to get away with just putting a new head on the right side?
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My 2008 f250 6.4l just got out of the shop a week a go new small block and new pistons, throwing #1 constrabution code,map sensor and #1 cil misfire you can hear air come out of the intake, I am guessing valve train or lifter..... other problem two days after the truck throwing the codes i went to take it to the shop and would barely drive floored struggle to go 10mph put it in park rev up normal will go in reverse normal just no power in drive, no transmission codes, had it towed to the diesel shop, mech said might be a fail safe on transmission from the engine codes? it has egr/dfp h&s mini maxx tuner, the truck has 170k on body 11k on new engine before the new block that was put in last week.
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My '05 F250 (5.4) started misfiring and threw codes for p0300, p0305, p0307, p0308,and p2198. I used an inline spark checker to check cops, which all had spark. Replaced 5, 6, 7, and 8 plugs and cleared codes. Ran truck for a few minutes and codes came back. Switched #5 and #6 cops and cleared codes. 5,7,and 8 cylinders still misfiring (same codes). Truck only has 36,000 miles and spent alot of time just sitting. Plugs were original plugs.
Replaced 5-8 with Autolite OEM replacements. I haven't checked cops for resistance yet. Weather was pretty cold when problem started. Threw in about 10oz. of Lucas to no avail. I had this problem last winter with the same cylinders throwing codes. Threw some Lucas in the tank and idled truck for approx. 1/2 hour and problem went away except for stumbling most every time truck came to a stop. I'm starting to wonder if it's a coil or a fuel issue.
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So basically I thought it would be a great idea to degrease my motor from the top down.... After washing I start it up and drive down the road to head abunch of misfiring under heavy load or high rpm's.
My problem is that the misfiring won't throw a code. I then proceeded to buy a new ignition coil (thinking this was the problem) but with no code to go off which cylinder was bad I just switched the good ignition coil into each cylinder and starting it.
Up each time. None of them seemed to make it better. Also the injectors all seemed to be good. So what to do ?
2002 Ford F-250 5.4l
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I just bought an 09 f-250 lariat 6.4 . It has 100k on it. Was driving it AC was working fine. Next time I got in it went to turn the AC Auto on and nothing..the display works fine..lights work..looks like it is working, but nothing. No fan no anything.
Also, the check engine light will come on too. Then next day everything works fine again. Check engine light is out..everything looks perfect. Then this morning the same thing happened..check engine light and no AC.
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My father has a 2009 Ford F-250 Superduty with the 5.4l V8. Two days ago, he frantically woke me up from a nap because he could not get the truck out of park nor are the brake lights turning on when the pedal is pressed. I instantly thought Shift Interlock, did a quick google search and found that it can be the shift interlock or brake light switch on the brake pedal. I have since then replaced both to no avail as well as checking all fuses. I put a multimeter to the brake light switch connector and am getting a steady 10.2v. I am aware there is a bypass switch but that doesn't address the fact that he has no brake lights.
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I just bought a 2009 F250, I am getting a wind noise that I can't figure out where it is coming from. It only happens when I'm going at least 70 and into the wind. It is a short flute sounding noise that is intermittent.
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Read about and want to clean my throttle body. Why have to remove it from the truck ? 2009 f-250 5.4 .....
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I have a 2008 f250 SD, My buddy has an 09 350 SD. He is looking to go to a smaller suspension and I wouldn't mind having a bigger lift. Don't get me wrong, I like where my truck sits, which honestly I am not sure what lift size mine has. Anyhow, will the 350 suspension work on the 250?
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2009 F250 lariat. While driving down the highway my wipers came on when stalk was in the off position. They would not shut off. Had to remove the relay to get them to shut off. Also, during middle of a sunny day the headlights would temporarily come on and shut off when it was in the automatic position. They would not come on if I put it in the off position though. Since both the wipers and high beams are part of the multifunction switch is it likely that the switch has gone bad vs. a more major issue with the computers. No other issues identified.
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I have a pedal pulsation, steering wheel shimmy, and pull to the right when the brakes are applied in my truck. It is a 2009 F250 4x4 gas V8. I just replaced the pads, rotors, and calipers on the front and that's when the problem started. It definitely gets worse with speed too. I replaced the calipers because the right one had seized up and the left one looked to be on the way. There are no odd noises and the wheel bearing doesn't feel like there is any play in it. What this could be?
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2009 F250 Super Duty 4X4 auto lock hubs not working. Indicator lights on dash come on but will only go into 4 wheel drive when hubs are locked manually. Vacuum is present at lower of the two vacuum lines when engine is running. I attach the lower line to the module, rotate switch to 4X4 high or low and module doesn't allow vacuum to reach upper nipple. Which fuse operates this module?
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I'm re-doing the parking brake as part of a rear brake job on my 2009 F250. I need to disconnect the intermediate brake cable at the equalizer, but am having trouble. I've got slack in the cable, but can't push hard enough to get the swaged cable end to move within the connector that's between the equalizer cable and the intermediate cable.
Is there a special tool or some trick to this? If push comes to shove, I can cut the connector (assuming I can get a replacement), but would rather not.
Also, any particular trick to disconnecting the cable to the parking brake lever at the wheel? With that huge spring between the cable bracket and the end of the lever, I haven't been able to move the cable end enough to disconnect it from the lever. Since I don't have the intermediate cable disconnected, could that have something to do with it?
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For about 6 months the cruise control on our '09 F-250 has been intermittently failing. One time I'll set it and it will work fine, the next time I try to set it and it fails. No particular rhyme or reason to when it fails to set.
Some of the tests that I did indicated it was the brake light switch on the brake pedal arm. It seemed to work perfectly a few times that I drove it after the installation but now it's back to working when it wants to.
I had a problem with the cruise on our '06 Ranger and it turned out to be the module. It acted a bit the same way in that it would set sometimes, other time not. I don't know if the two systems are similar or not.
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I have a 2009 f 250 5.4 v8 trition motor my coil packs are slowly failing. I want to replace all 8 of them. Which coils and plugs I am going to need. I guess I'll replace the plugs also, how are the accel coil packs and ngk plugs....
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Our 2009 F-250 in our signature with 53,000 miles on it recently had a transmission episode that has me concerned. We were towing our fifth-wheel camper which weighs around 9000 lbs. We were nearly home on a 275 mile trip. All interstate at speeds of no more than 67 MPH. As I was in the process of exiting the interstate on the last 12 miles of our journey I noticed some smoke coming from underneath the truck. I immediately stopped and got under the truck and noticed transmission fluid running down from the top of the transmission and dripping onto the crossover exhaust pipe.
I let the truck idle for several minutes and it seemed to stop dripping fluid, or at least it had slowed considerably. I took off again being very careful not to gas it up at all, if fact I was very light footed with it from there on home. The ScanGauge II showed the transmission temp. had never got above 186 all the way home and it was at about 185 at the time I saw the smoke. The ambient temperature was around 90 and the truck had not labored at all on the way home. It would do the usual down shifting at overpasses but since I installed the 4.30 gears it doesn't do all that much shifting with the cruise control set on around 65-66 MPH.
I couldn't see where the oil was coming from but it was toward the top of the transmission. The transmission acted perfectly normal in every way even at the time of the dripping.
As I said, I took it plenty easy all the remaining 12 miles home and the tranny temp. dropped down to around 181. I parked the truck and camper on our asphalt driveway and saw no sign of drippage after it was parked. I fired the truck up the morning after this incident and drove it pulling the camper until the transmission temp. got to 185 and came home and parked it on the asphalt again and saw no signs of any leakage.
I checked the transmission fluid level per the instructions in the owners manual and it appeared to be right up to full. I don't believe it was over full. It smelled like it was new without a hint of any burnt odor. I bought the truck with 31,000 miles on it and had the dealer at which I purchased it change the transmission fluid at that time so it should be in very good condition.
I am going into a very busy time with this truck and can't chance any down time if it can be avoided. According to the research I did at the time I purchased this truck the automatic transmissions Ford used in the 2009 F-250 are pretty much bullet proof if maintained properly and not overly abused. This one has been well maintained and I've NEVER abused it. I wanted a manual trans. at the time I bought this unit but could not find one anywhere. I'm not a big slush-a-matic fan and I sincerely hope this one doesn't make me realize my long standing fear of slush-a-matic transmissions.
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