Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2008 V10 - Timing Chain Broken Or Fell Off On The Passenger Side Bank
Feb 7, 2017
Today I either broke timing chain or it fell off on the passenger side bank of my 08 F250 V10. Put a hole in valve cover. What to expect for repairs. Is this engine Zero tolerance.. unsure if I should expect bent valves or not and just how far I may have to go with this.. best way to test. I have a bore scope camera and mechanical abilities.
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I have an 05 5.4 f250 that had a stuck injector. I changed plugs before I realized it was injector. After that the truck had a terrible rattling noise. I ended up changing timing tensioners and guides (guide was broken). Started it up and have the same noise, like timing chain is loose.
What I think happened is gas got into oil when injector was stuck. I had key on to pull codes. Then it lost oil pressure?
Could this cause can phases to go bad? Also can I just install lockouts or do I need to replace phasers as well?
Not sure if there's anything else I should check
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So working on a 2005 F150 with a 5.4. Started off as a phaser replacement. Turn out the passenger side timing chain guide was badly damaged. Front timing chain cover came off and replaced the guide and phaser. Got everything back together and it ran rough. Pulled the front timing cover off and the passenger side was off a tooth.
Retimed that passenger side and also replaced the tensioner because the seal on the old tensioner wasn't the best. Now rotating the engine, i noticed the tensioner pushes then retracts. Seems like a vacuum is created pulling the plunger in, but not entirely sure. Only the passenger side does this, not the drivers side.
Worried about putting the front cover and valve covers on, buttoning everything together and having it skip another tooth because of slack in the chain. Any fix for it or reason why it does it?
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I have 05 F250 SD with 150k on it. The engine has the typical cam phaser knock, timing chain slap on start up and occasionally have a noisy lifter. As long as I use fresh 20-40 oil the engine symptoms are less and the engine runs strong. The motor also doesn't leak or burn oil and the plugs were change out about 20k ago.
The truck is still good and is prefect for my needs so to me it's seems worth fixing the needed repairs. What I would like to figure out how far should I take the motor... just have the chains, guides and phasers replaced or buy a rebuilt motor and swap it? I'm thinking just doing the phases and etc would be 1/2 the cost but may not last as long as rebuilt motor. But realistically I might only put 5-7k miles are year on it anyways.
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I got a 08 ford f450 sd in the shop with a cracked abd broken bolt in the driver's side exhaust manifold, any tips tricks on getting it out,I have everything loose but I can't for the life of me get the egr cooler out of the way to access the top bolts to the manifold so I can replace the manifold, or a link to a service manual would be great.
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Trying to get it off. I removed four bolts nd still having trouble.
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OK... I know next to nothing about cars. I have a '99 Chevy Lumina I just bought in February. It has been one problem after another. The water pump has been changed and I just got my car back on Monday because there was a leak on the timing chain cover. Now, the car is smoking on the passenger side. Its not a light smoke, but its not heavy yet. I noticed it on the way to work this morning. I opened the hood, it is coming from the left side (looking at it, so the passenger side) of the engine maybe kinda underneath it. I dunno what to do, but I'm ready to push that thing into a lake.
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My 2008 ford f250 SD Powerstroke has a bad front passenger side brake rub/ dragging after offroading before off roading just rubbed a little now it drags a lot. what do i need to fix.
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I keep getting a lean bank code. I have cleaned tb and replaced one of the rubber lines. It only comes on when I take a good ride with the truck. Not sure what else it could be. I'm thinking O2 sensor maybe.
2008 F-350 5.4 3V. 65k miles
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Another question on this, my 2008 F250 with auto climate has decided to only blow heat on the passenger side...do you agree that it is an actuator? If so how hard or easy is this to fix and what is the best fix.
While here, on another note, I noticed a rubber line hanging right over my front diff it looks like it could go onto a nipple coming off the diff? Is this a vacuum line for the diff that I need to put back?
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I was driving from home to work the other day and it was 6 degrees out. My heat was working good and everything was fine and then all of a sudden the passenger side started blowing cool air. Not cold not warm. Driver side was still hot. It is a lariat and has dual temp zones. Everything I read everyone says blender doors but what would make it stop working out of no where when everything was fine. Occasionally when I start my truck and turn the heat on it makes a popping noise under the dash when the blower kicks on. But it has done this since I owned it an never had an issue. It's 25 below today and I would really love to have completely functional heat. It's an 2008 f350.
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My front passenger leaf spring just broke on my 2000 f-350. My front springs are T code, but I was wondering if a could replace the broken one with a code X spring as a temp fix until I get a leaf spring replacement delivered?
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My drivers side armrest was broken when I bought it. Been searching for repair advise but have not found any. Instead of stopping so you can put your arm on it, it just falls down. I sorta wanted to see what I was getting into before taking it apart.
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What this might be? (see pic)....
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My Bank 2 Sensor 2 oxygen sensor is faulty and I need to replace it. The guys at the parts store were pretty certain it is downstream driver's side, but I just want to make sure before I PB Blasted and removed it. 2008 F250 SD v10 ....
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Our F-450 with 102000 miles lost both turbos also broken exhaust manifold bolts. This truck carries tools fuel tank and sometimes skid loader on trailer. Heard lots of bad things about 6.4 liter motor now first hand experience. Asked dealer if 6500.00 bill could be reduced since so close to 100000 mile warranty and was told nothing could be done. Can not afford to sell truck now also have two other Ford F-250s newest one 2012. Is there any other approach that could be taken to get some relief from this expense.
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I have a 2013 f250 6.2, I bought the truck brand new only have about 3000 miles on it and the other day I noticed that the drivers side front is lower then the passengers side front, the drivers side is about one inch lower, this doesn't seem right, also my drivers side front wheel seems to be pushed forward about one inch to the bumper that also doesn't seem right.
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Bad news: Radiator fan fell off while driving tore up fan blades. It is going to take them a week to get the parts!
Good news: My extended warranty is good for 10 more days! So the fan and fan clutch need replaced.
Should I insist that they replace the serpentine belt that rubbed on fan (50,000 miles on belt, original belt) and the water pump? It put a good dent in the radiator but didn't puncture it.
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On the F250 trucks, if I changed the mounting frame under the seat, will the passenger side seat fit on the drivers side? Basically, can I turn a passenger seat into a drivers seat?
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My Bump Stops have completely dry rotted and fell off the truck. I have an 08 with a 2 inch leveling kit, I already did all the body bushings, as they disintegrated as well. Should I bother replacing them? I highly doubt that I would ever bottom out that bad that I would need them?
If I should replace them, then where did u guy's get them and should I go with the Neoprene like I did with the body bushings?
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I have 1999 7.3, stock. I am getting oil to injectors on passenger side but none on drivers side.
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