Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2008 - Truck Wouldn't Start Whenever Temp Gauge Working While Hot
Jun 28, 2017
I have had this issue with the truck 2008 F-250 6.4L since I bought it a year ago. At first it seemed as if the truck wouldn't start whenever the water temp gauge was working while she was hot. When the gauge wasn't working she would start right up like a champ. Well a year later ( have only been driving it for 6 months) a full engine rebuild, new high pressure fuel pump ( injector pump on top the engine below the turbos) she still won't start when she is hot. What the issues are.
Right after the engine rebuild I was getting the p088 code which is for the hpfp but since I cleared the codes right after the engine was rebuilt I haven't gotten the code again. I replaced the high pressure fuel pump this last weekend hoping that it would solve all of my issues and she would be like brand new again, but it didn't do anything. When I ran codes right after I installed the high pressure fuel pump I got a few codes p0684 which is the glow plug control module p0284 ( google said) gear lever y position correct but I'm unsure if that's right.
P0528 which is the fan speed sensor circuit ( that was unplugged during the removal of the hpfp and power steering pump or the radiator) p0480 cooking fan circuit ( also unplugged ) p174e out put shaft wheel speed correlation ( not concerned about that one) p008c fuel pump control circuit p008d fuel cooler system ( taken out and unplugged using installation of new hpfp) p115a ( low fuel level forced limit power) that is from trying to start while she had a little bit of air in the system after replacement) p2291 injector control pressure to low- excessive cranking ( probably from the air in the fuel system again). I cleared all those codes once I got her up and running again. Checked for codes yesterday and the only one that came up again was the p0684. Where to check next for this hot start issues,and don't know what to do at this point.
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I got in my 06 f250 tonight and my digital read out on my temp control not working. My heater and A/C works but when I turn it off my outside temp is not on. Whats going on?
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My F250 with V10 has developed an overheating problem. While driving, the temp gauge suddenly shoots to max, and the truck goes into limp mode. Turning off the truck and ignition, waiting a few minutes, and all seems to be well again - sometimes for only a minute, sometimes for several days. No steam leaking, the water in the reservoir seems to be normal temperature, the radiator is not overly hot, and the AC keeps on blowing ice cold. Me thinks it is not really overheating, it just thinks it is. So where to start? Change the temp sensor first, or the thermostat? It seems the hoses are fairly firm, I don't believe they are collapsing from suction.
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I replaced the sensor on top of the water pump and the gauge still doesn't work. I tested the gauge by unplugging and grounding out the wire and the gauge goes all the way up. What I can try next. I didn't get a Motorcraft sensor so I'm going to go get one of those tomorrow hoping the duralast wasn't correct even though it looked 98 percent identical to the original. 7.3 lite diesel.
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The truck I'm working on is a 2003 f550 with a 6.0, and 382000 kilometers. My service truck died on me couple days ago, while running. As I rolled to a stop, I noticed that my temp gauge on the dash dropped to cold. (Truck was hot). Tried starting, and I have a crank, no start situation.
After towing it to my shop at work, I hooked it up to my scanner, and found that the pcm will not communicate with the scanner (otc genisis). I have no injector buzz with key on, wait to start light comes on for an abnormally long time. I have 48.3 volts on the ficm,(4 screw), and haven't been able to find any chafed wires as of yet.
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I have an issue with my 2008 f250 6.4 where the gauge cluster is dark and truck won't crank. The only light on the dash is the airbag light. I have tried reprogamming with my Spartan tuner, checked fuses, removed aftermarket alarm, charged batteries. I scanned and got two codes. P1260 theft detected and a u code no comm with cluster.
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I have a 2008 f250 with 5.4v8. The truck starts intermittently. Put key in turn if no dash lights it doesn't even crank or hear a click. If u put key in and turn and dash lights up to starts and runs. U can watch the different lights (instrument cluster) light up independently like a xmas tree. When truck doesn't start if u disconnect battery when touching power wire to battery. Post truck lights will flick on/off if u tap cables to battery and leave on. Lights flicker on/off and then stay off. (Don't know why shouldn't flicker at all) after disconnecting and reconnecting battery truck will or will not start still depends on if dash lights come on before cranking.i replaced battery, starter, alternator, all the ground cable connections and wire cleaned. I haven't replaced the power side but are clean.
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I have an 08 f250 with 6.4. when ever it rains the truck will not start. None of the gauges will work, door chime doesn't work and the only error light is the airbag light. Lights, radio, turn signals, horn all work. There is no clicking of the starter relay, the truck in dead. There is no water on the floor board nor is the floor moist. If I place a ceramic heater on the driver side floor board and blow hot air towards the firewall the truck will start in about 30 min to an hour depending on how long it sat in the rain. I've removed the air intake vents and there is no debris blocking the drains.
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I have an 02 F250 V10. Ive always wondered about the transmission gauge. It seems to always point to the middle of the gauge range. This weekend I was pulling my car hauler up and over the Ozark mountains, and when I stopped for fuel I noticed the transmission was vomiting fluid underneath the truck (and on my exhaust creating a nice smoke bomb for everyone around me). The gauge indicated normal temps. It kind of gave me a sick feeling. I have ordered the 6.0 Trans cooler from Rock Auto and a new temperature sending unit. Do the trans temp gauge is supposed to move or is it pretty much useless?
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I had a mechanic replace the temp sensor on the top of the intake in my 2001 f350 v10 and since then my temp gauge doesn't work. He replaced the sensor again and still nothing. Is there a different sensor/sender that controls the temp gauge???
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My truck threw a code p1299 last night on my way home from the lake. I was towing on a huge grade and all the sudden my engine temp gauge pegged out on me and check engine light came on. I pulled over and noticed a bunch of coolant had overflown the cap but the engine didn't seem to have over heated. When I restarted the truck the engine temp was immediately normal range. I drove for another 30 min or so and the engine temp started to climb and then come back to normal then climb and stay pegged. I pulled over again and noticed the coolant level was low and coolant had overflown the reservoir. I restarted the truck and once again it was normal. I just drove surface streets the rest of the way with no issue. I suspect blown head gasket. This is a 2003 F-250 6.8L with 100000 miles.
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So I'll be driving down the road and the gauges will randomly start jumping around then the truck will just shut off, this just started a couple days ago, it seems to be gaining in frequency, when i try and restart the engine all my warning lights flash on and nothing happens, try again and it starts back up, now the last time it happened all of the above happened but it was followed by a fast clicking noise from under the steering column, it has to be a electrical issue as i have full tanks and motor is in tip top shape. Also no codes pop up with my code reader.
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I have been having a problem with my 2002 F250 Super Duty 4x4. It started about 2 months ago. I was in traffic (truck hadn't even been on for 15 minutes). The temp gauge spiked, so I pulled over and turned the truck off. I turned the ignition on and the gauge was normal so I started it and all was fine.
Fast forward a little and every so often about every 3 weeks it would overflow (coolant) but not get to the point that it would overheat. I changed the thermostat and all seemed good to go. Fast forward to yesterday morning. Got in the truck and left to go hunting, and I didn't even make it 10 minutes down the road when I turned the heat on and it blew cold.
I started to see the gauge creep up so I pulled over and shut it down. Upper hose was cold, lower is cold and both heater hoses are cold. After some time of waiting, I started it but the gauge kept creeping up and no heat, so I kept shutting it down. After about 5x of this, the heat worked and the upper hose got hot and all was right with the world. SO I drove it home. Coolant is new, flushed about a month ago and was running great since then. Thermostat is new. Do I have a blockage somewhere? Water pump bad?
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When I purchased my truck 1999 F350 about 5 years ago, I was told it was on its third transmission since the awesome 7.3 diesel engine has 200,000 miles on it. At first I noticed that going up a hill with the truck empty would cause the tranny temp gauge to climb to 250 degrees F. Nowadays when I tow my boat or carry my camper, the temp gauge pegs over 250 and the overdrive light flashes steadily when I do any hill climbs. I have had the fluid flushed several times, and I have a large fan powered oil cooler too. I also recently noticed that the tranny heated up when the truck is just idling in place.
I just got back from burning man and during the 800 mile round trip the overdrive light started flashing at least 6 times and the temp gauge read over 210 the whole time, with it pegging over 250 during hill climbs. No fluid boiled out but I am very concerned that damage is being done.
Is it possible there is a clog in a line somehwere restricting the flow of oil? Or should I replace the tranny?
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Ok so here here goes I have a 1999 f250 super duty with 5.4 triton it seems to be over heating but the gage stays in the normal operating temperature range. I just changed the water pump. Could it be the thermostat and Would it hurt to remove the thermostat until I can get one...
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I have a super duty with the 5.4 in it. it just quit while off road n wouldn't start back up. pulled it back to camp, wiggled wires around cam n crank sensors n it fired up n stalled numerous times then just wouldn't even fire back up. loaded on trailer n brought home, buddy put his tester on there n said there was no rpm reading so I replaced the crank sensor, it fired up n stalls still. wires seem to be good to crank n cam sensors. don't have a manual to tell me what relays are what.
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2001 F250 5.4 ... I'm losing my mind chasing a Gremlin. I've been having mostly intermittent starting issues with my truck. I've had the truck for a little over a year, after someone totaled my previous one.
It occasionally wouldn't start on the first attempt, but it got really bad in the last couple weeks.
I first thought it was a faulty inertia switch or wiring in that vicinity, as at one point after manually tripping and resetting the cutoff switch it would start, UNTIL I put the trim panel back. At this point I think that may have been a coincidence.
I eventually probed the switch and it tests as it should electrically.
I put in a new fuel filter and things were fine for several days, but it acted up again. That time was last Saturday. Got it to start and all was good until tonight. Now it won't go, and I've tried so many times that I can see the battery power is dropping.
Last Saturday I pulled the relays from behind the radio and cleaned 'em up real nice. Also, just to check another variable I swapped the two that matched.
I'm about ready to change the fuel pump, but I've heard so many people say they did that but the problem was something else. Not only will it costs hundreds of dollars, its cold out and we'll have to drop the tank in the driveway.
In addition to the relay, inertia switch and fuse, I have found some mention of faulty fuel pressure regulators causing issues. I'll pry the vacuum line off in the morning to see if I can detect fuel residue on the vacuum side. (There is some noticeable corrosion on the fuel rail in that area).
I REALLY want to make sure I rule everything else out before spending hours under the truck in freezing weather dropping the tank and changing the sending unit out.
On key-on there is a noise from the gas tank, but someone else listening described it as a click but no whirring.
I do hear the relay clicking behind the radio. (Also, I pulled them again tonight and put a meter to them. With 12V on the primary side, they click and the other side shows continuity on diode check, and about .2 Ohm on resistance mode.)
I went through a lot of trouble to get my spare out looking for the fuel control module before finding out my truck is about 3 years too old to have one too. What else to check?
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Everything was working fine, getting down to about 1/4 tank. I do the usual, fill up, startup, reset the trip, and look at my level and it hasn't changed, neither has the 'km until E'. What would cause this? Failed Sender? No check engine light (yet). I guess I'll be watching the trip meter for a while.
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1999 F250 V10 gas. I changed out the fuel pump, and now the gauge doesn't work. Checked all fuses - they're good. Is there any possibility that I could have accidentally pinned the float under the pickup sock, or got it hung somewhere? Is this a common occurrence? Don't really want to drop the tank again - but looks like I will have to in order to check/fix.....
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Recently had extensive work done on my 2005 F250 PSD. 4 injectors replaced, fuel regulator, and STC fitting on HPOP.
Got the truck back, and the fuel gauge, and "distance to E" display are working intermittently.
When the truck went in for repair, it was about 1/8 tank. After repairs, shop put about 30 miles on the truck.
I picked it up, and the gauge read E, and display said 0 kms to E. I filled the truck up, and the gauge still read E, and said 0 kms to E.
I then drove for a while, then powered down, and back up again, and gauge read below E (like when truck not running), and display had 4 dashes...no numbers, for distance to E. I powered down, and then back up, then it read 696 kms to E, and gauge working normally.
This morning, on a cold start, the 4 dashes, and empty reading returned. I shut off truck, and restarted it, and it started working again.
Could the shop have damaged the sending unit, while driving 30 miles, with so little diesel in the tank?
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