Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2008 - Replace 20 Inch Wheels With 18 Or 17 Inches?
Jun 6, 2017
Have a 2008 F-350 crew cab 4x4 lariat with 20" wheels on it. Tire size is very limited/expensive. Can I replace the 20" wheels with 18" or 17"? I was told it depends on the size of the brakes. How do I check that, short of buying "test" wheels? I am old school and would rather have more tire and less rim, than the other way around.
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Odd thing happened. All of a sudden the factory emblem on my 2008 tailgate totally lost all of its blue and is now pure chrome. Happened just like that.
Anyway, is it screwed on and do I need to pull the panel on the tailgate to remove it? Here's the tailgate on my truck for reference.
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I have had the truck just under a year. It has 104k on it i only drive it on weekends. Last weekend going to Home Depot about 15 miles got out and could smell brakes burning. Felt the wheels and the right rear was very hot. Got back home no smell but still hot not as hot as earlier. Pulled the wheel off it looks as if the pads and calipers are fairly new paint is still on them caliper is a TRW. The pads were stuck in the carrier even the stainless clip ends look rusted.
Cleaned it all up both sides lubed the pad carrier with pin lube. Pushed the calipers back in some both sides went in easy. The right rotor has definitley been hot. Put it all back together and went for a test drive. Came back no problems checked the temperature with a laser type heat thermometer all wheels were around 140 f. Went out yesterday morning stopped and could smell the brakes again. Drove it back home and the right rear was 300 f. others 150 to 160 f.
Jacked it up put it in neutral and the you can spin the wheels by hand. Started the truck had the wife get in put it in drive wheels turning applied the brakes they stopped let go they turn freely again tried the parking brake it works fine also. So do I buy new calipers and brakes or maybe is the wheel bearing going bad causing the brakes to heat up?ied.
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Just came back from breaking in new brake pads. Instructions called for five moderate to aggressive stops from 45 to 10mph, then five moderate stops from 35 to 5mph, then cool down and drive as normal. Drivers side door opened fine when I got in to do the test. It's been opening and closing OK since I bought the truck a few months ago. Got back from my break-in procedure, and the drivers side door wouldn't open more than about 8". Had to crawl over and exit from the passenger side. Found that the drivers side door is binding against the front fender about midway down.
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Im just about due for some new tires before this next michigan winter. I have 18" rims with the stock 275/70s. What size can i go up to with out any trouble?
Also. I have michellin ltx/2 now. Mostly highway miles with some muddy job sites and also to my 8000lb camper 6 times a year.
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I have a 4 inch lift on my truck and currently have 20x10 with 35x12.5 but I want to run a 20x12 with a 35x14.5 or maybe just a wider tire on my 10 inch wheels but idk how much bigger I can get on a 10 inch wheel
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I'm planning on doing a 2" level. Will I need a drop pitman arm, or can I stick with the stock pitman arm? Will I need anything else? I plan on doing the level when I replace my coil springs and shocks. (I have another thread on that). I'm driving a 2000 F250 V10 2WD CC SB (twin I-beam front axle) if that info is pertinent to this question.
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I have a stock 2012 F250 6.7 Diesel. I was looking at getting new 18 or 20 inch rims for it and was wondering what the largest tire I could fit on those without rubbing on the truck would be. I know there are lots of topics on this but I could not find anything that applied to me. Most topics were on stock wheels.
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want to raise the front of my 99 f250 super duty. I only found rough country for my options. I am looking for a 2-3" lift. Will the 3" lift spindles work fine? What else am i going to need? Shocks?
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I am trying to get an extra set of wheels for my truck before we move back to Alaska to mount my studs on next winter. I have found a few used sets but then realized I have the tire pressure sensors on my truck. If I pick up a set, do I have to get ones with the sensors? Can sensors be added to the tire shop? I just really have no intel on this subject!
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I have the 20 inch chrome wheels on my 2016 Lariat. After this winter there is some buildup if some sort in the wheels that will not come off when I hand wash the truck. From what I understand, these are some sort of plastic covering and not true chrome. So my question is can use a really abrasive material or steel wool to remove heavy grime. I have a feeling it is from salt in the roads. I don't want to ruin my wheels.
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ill be replacing my muffler here soon, its rusted out blows smoke out all the rust holes, and so on. gonna replace with a nice flo master. Question is, when is it time to replace the catalytic converter? 15 years old and 93000 miles, it still seems like its in good shape, but could it be getting clogged? just from the sounds of the exhaust the past few months, it almost sounds like the truck is somewhat congested. The power from the engine is kinda week, but that's the engine itself. I have no real problems getting up to speed. my hesitation issues from before turned out to be water in the gas tank. Figured since im down there does it make sense just to bite the bullet and throw a new catalytic converter on?
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This is my dads f250 build date of 9/03. I know these wheels are not the factory xl wheels. I also think they changed something with the wheel back spacing somewhere around this time. He is running 285/70/17 bfgs and is rubbing the leaf springs pretty good. He ran this same size on his previous 02 model with no rubbing. Can he get away with 1/4 spacers? What years these wheels are from? And the backspacing differences, if any. His 02 had the chrome large bullet hole style wheels.
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I just put new rims on my truck which are 18x9 with a -24 offset. I swapped my 35s over from my stock wheels (which they didn't rub at all). When I put my new wheels on, the drivers side rubs really bad but the passenger side doesn't rub at all! I'm extremely confused why this happens. I know negative offset will make the wheel rub weird. But why is it only happening on one side and not the other?
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To tow a CASE 580L backhoe I believe a 1 ton should be just at its legal limit for towing. My question is do I need DRW's if I've got a gooseneck trailer total weight about 18K lbs (or will single rear wheels be legal)?
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Will it be easier for me to drop the tank or to take off the bed of the truck does a 1990 F350 7.5 liter dual tank gas
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Rear-most connection before pumpkin, need to replace the U-Joint. I got the four bolts out at the flange but the shaft won't drop. I beat on the connection a bit, not enough to hurt though. What am I missing? How the heck do I get this apart and drop the shaft to replace the U-Joint???
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A few months ago I bought a used 2006 F350 superduty with manual/ auto 4x4. For the last few months I have had an intermittent moaning noise coming from the wheels. It happens when going at slow speeds (under 30mph) I have checked all calipers and made sure none were frozen. Brake pads have at least 75% life in them. I put the truck in neutral to spin all tires by hand and try to replicate the sound.
The front seem to spin easy. The drivers rear will spin but is hard to move and the passenger side I can barely move (I'm assuming it's because it's the drive tire? I believe it has something to do with the rotation of the tire because when driving it moans in intervals. Like it's at a certain point in the rotation something is rubbing. How to troubleshoot further? When going through parking lots it is quite noisy and I can feel the running in my brake pedal.
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I have a 2003 F250 5.4L crew cab with the 156"wb. She has just developed a hole in the stock muffler so it will need to be replaced.
I want something that is an easy-fit, has better flow, and maybe better sounding.
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I'd like to replace the back bench seats with something that has a headrest. Can I swap out the benchseat from a 2004 model and place it in my 2003 model?
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I have after market chrome wheel and stock brake pads. The brake pad dust is corroding the chrome. Is their a brake pad I can use so it doesn't happen? Ive been told ceramic pads is the way to go.. The wheels are RBPs. Have a new set of RBPs coming in to replace, also what about pad covers? I tow a 29' boat and the rest is highway miles..
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