Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2008 - No Power / Throwing Codes P2196 And P2198
Aug 22, 2017
2008, 5.4 liter, F250, with 6-speed manual transmission
My truck was running fine until I decided to clean my engine. I just wanted to remove the extra dust covering it, so I used a low pressure garden hose to wash away the dirt that had accumulated last winter and spring.
It started throwing codes like Fuel Rail pressure sensors, P0191, P0192. I had no power, and I could hardly drive the truck.
I figured I had some water in some connectors, so I checked around, but could not detect any moisture.
I kept driving it, and the problem got less severe. One warm summer day, I drove my truck for about an hour trip, and everything looked fine after this. Problem never came back.
I was even noticing that it was better on gas that ever before, I was doing 11liters/100km, in city driving.
Until one day (2 months later), I had to disconnect the battery to do some servicing on my truck (more that 30 minutes), and it started to run crappy again, having some piston misfire, throwing codes P2198 and P2196, (O2 sensors). No power, if I am very gentle on the gas pedal, I can manage it, but as soon as i try to accelerate, runs like crap, black smoke coming out of the exhaust.
The problem comes and goes, sometimes, the problem stops, and I can get going, no issues. Air filter is clean, even tried with no air filter, no differences., but it really sounds like bad air/fuel mixture.
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Ok so my F250 died last night. I read the Pcodes and came up with P2198 and P0506. I am pretty good with fixing the truck but need to know exactly what is wrong.
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My 2008 f250 6.4l just got out of the shop a week a go new small block and new pistons, throwing #1 constrabution code,map sensor and #1 cil misfire you can hear air come out of the intake, I am guessing valve train or lifter..... other problem two days after the truck throwing the codes i went to take it to the shop and would barely drive floored struggle to go 10mph put it in park rev up normal will go in reverse normal just no power in drive, no transmission codes, had it towed to the diesel shop, mech said might be a fail safe on transmission from the engine codes? it has egr/dfp h&s mini maxx tuner, the truck has 170k on body 11k on new engine before the new block that was put in last week.
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I have a 2008 f250 superduty with the v10. Just today I was driving and engine picked up.slight miss it's rainy. I thought coil pack, but it left me on side of road. Got fired limped home won't go more than 40mph. Runs rough, no power, checked codes and get P0340, p0357, p1336, and P2195.. Where to start.. My daily driver and have to get back on road.
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2007 E450 Van. Dash light came on. OBD2 reader indicates: P2196 Ford - Lack of HO2S-11 Switch Sensor Indicates Rich
I need to find out which sensor to replace. It looks like I need to replace Bank 1, Sensor 1, but I am not sure where it is located. My guess it's located on the manifold, but I'm not sure if it's driver or passenger side.
A friend says, "Look in the owners manual for the van and find out which cylinder is cylinder number 1. Cylinder 1 is always on Bank 1."
The owner's manual has no indication of where cylinder one is located. I do not have a service manual.
I am not highly technical, but I do think I can replace the sensor myself, or at least I would like to give it a try.
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I just recently purchased a 2008 ford f350 5.4L gasser, supercab long box. The truck has 167,000km on it. I flew about 700km from my hometown to pick up the truck and drive it home. After driving about 300km I started noticing a few problems.
The engine light codes that have been stored as of now:
P0420 (Catalyst code)
P0420 (Catalyst code)
P0191 (Fuel rail pressure sensor i think?)
The issue I'm having is that the truck has absolutely no power going uphill or accelerating. If I'm climbing a hill and have the gas pedal pushed in at a steady rate its almost as if the transmission wont shift, and if i push harder on the gas the truck begins to shudder. When the truck is cold it runs normal and climbs hills no problem, but once it heats up the problem returns. Another odd thing I noticed under the hood on my drive home was that they disconnected the vacuum line from the fuel rail pressure sensor and simply plugged the line on a random bolt.
Also, the truck apparently has a cam phaser lockout on it and I dont know if that could be causing the issue? Here's a list of some of the troubleshooting ive done so far.
-checked all fuses(start at the basics eh)
-checked resistance of coils(checked out fine, even after engine was warm)
-pulled spark plug 1 and 5, they both seemed fairly clean, not fowled up
-generally looked over all the vacuum lines, seemed fine couldn't see anything else really out of the ordinary
-while the truck was running I used a temperature gauge to see what the exhaust system was doing. On the drivers side when the truck was warm before the cat I had 140C and after the cat it was 80C(good indication the cat is plugged?) The other side tested fairly consistent.
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My dads truck started misfiring last week, first thing i did was scan the codes and got p0303, p0304, p0305, p0306, and p0308. Its an 08 F-350 5.4...already changed out the spark plugs and the same codes came back. I decided to do some further testing and so far all coils had spark as well as 12.4 volts going to each. I did check the switching signal and that was present as well.
Moved on to the injectors and i checked each connector with my noid lights and it flashed on all cylinders. Did a resistance check on each injector and they all registered 12.4 ohms. We did switch some coils around and all the same cylinders misfire. My next step is to do a compression test.
My biggest question is if there are any common problems with these engines besides the coils, by the way this truck has the brown coil boots and the spark plugs that dont break in the engine.
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Had some issues with truck turning off when i hit bumps threw p163a and 1639 turned out to be bad alternator. Changed issue went away but..
Battery abs and check engine light are still on... Should they clear on their own?
Ive cleared the codes through my tuner and they come right back up after a few seconds. One battery is new the other old but tests ok.
Heard there's a 30 drive cycle some sau 40 but i believe I've started and driving it that already... 2008 6.4 ....
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Having problem with oil cooler pump throwing the wrench light? Dealer says it cools the oil and mine could be clogged a bit.. cost of total job around 8-10 k. And take cab off.
It seems when engine gets hot wrench light comes on cause not cooling oil down properly... it overheated. Gauges were very high.. Once when I was in full boost towing a ranger up a hill. First time it ever happened.. pulled over for 5 mins than started temp went back normal and finished tow no problem after that cause I kept boost lower!
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I recently bought a h&s tuner and installed a dpf delete kit. Everything works great when the truck is not plugged in to the tuner although when I do plug it in, the truck keeps throwing a communications code and goes into a limp mode until I delete the code. I believe it was p0073 but i maye be mistaken. Regardless it has to do with communicating through the obd2 port. I sent the tuner in to get checked out and it turns out its something to do with the truck. I've checked all the fuses and tried to check for broken wires. Where to look next?
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I've had the truck for almost a year. It had 2900mi when I bought it. It's got 18k on it now. A few weeks ago I stopped to get the mail and the dash started going crazy throwing every warning you could think of. I got back in and all the codes were gone. I figured it was a fluke until last week. It did it again. I let it run for a few minutes and decided to turn it off. It wouldn't start back up right away. After about 20min, it started and I drove straight to the dealer.
They had it for 2 days, cleared all the codes and couldn't replicate it. They said the codes were U codes and not real codes?? The next morning it did the same thing again. I took it back and after 3 days, they said they could only think that my AMP Powersteps were the cause. They disconnected the steps and wanted to keep it for a few more days. I said no and picked it back up. It made it 2 days and I got the codes again.
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I've got a 2006 F350 5.4L.
The ABS light came on and it was throwing a 'rear speed sensor' code. I searched around and it seemed to be a common issue that the sensor goes bad and needs to be replaced.
I bought a sensor and replaced it, but in doing so, I saw that while the sensor was indeed bad (cracked) the wire right at the connector was corroded.
I replaced the sensor but the ABS light is still on the dash. Is it possible that they code simply needs to be cleared? I was able to read it with my OBD2 dongle and Dash Command App, but maybe I'm not able to clear it?
Or is it more likely that the corroded wire on the connector is the issue? (it wasn't fully corroded and I cleaned it up and sealed it.). It didn't look like I could pull the wires out of the connector, so I assume I'll need a new connector. What is the part number?
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99 F-250 SD 6.8 had an issue with it while moving from Del to Phx, Az. Found collapsed air cleaner element. It looked like someone stepped on it. I replaced it as well as the MAF. This fixed the issue. This was 350 miles into the trip. The truck seemed to be down on power as it didn't want to pull my trailer up any type of grade except with OD off. Around 2K miles into the trip in developed a random misfire with no codes. I am at my final destination and the misfire is worse. I am not showing any codes at all or pending either. It is a bit toasty outside to be out there diagnosing issues, and I won't start changing parts randomly either. I have a NGS scan tool with the proper cards.
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I bought my 2015 in August of last year with 8K miles and here I sit at the dealership with 15K for the second time in 4 days.
Truck loses gauges while driving and throws all the warnings (tire pressure, temp, hill descent, and on and on). If I turn it off it won't start. I disconnected the battery first time it happened, about a month ago, and it restarted. Thursday it wouldn't start until the tow truck driver got it off the flatbed at the service center (go figure). This time I got it on video and parked it at the service center myself. I showed the foreman the video.
The service advisor told me it needed a software update last Friday when I picked it up, which is another way of saying they had no idea and didn't put much thought into it since it was running when they had it. The notes said they did a diagnostic, found no codes, and "drove it on a bumpy road" with no issues. Really?
This is extremely frustrating! I hope they actually do something this time. The damn thing started again before I left it with them!
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I have a 2008 Canadian F250 SD 5.4 triton. Its got 224000km on it and began to get the dreaded 5.4 dieseling when hot and idling. I replaced the timing chains, guides, both tensioners and crank gear. I confirmed the cam timing was correct with the crank key at 6:00 and the chains marks on the R and L. I replaced 2 coils on cyl's 2 and 3. I replaced the MAF sensor, fuel rail pressure sensor, cleaned and confirmed working the crank sensor and both cam sensors. I fixed the broken Bank 2 cam sensor wires. I changed the plugs and replaced all 4 O2 sensors.
Now the truck idles great but when driving it bucks and coughs and has zero power. I cant even get to 80km/hr. The computer now shows codes P0172 and P0174 which means the Bank 1 is rich and the bank 2 is lean. The O2 sensors are working and moving around. The back 02 sensors are both reading in the 0.8Volt range but bouncing around. The front 02 sensors are both moving from 0.1 to 0.8 constantly. The long term fuel trims are +9.5% bank 2 and -4.7% bank 1 at idle. When the throttle is off idle they become +25% bank 2 and -25% bank 1 . How is this possible and what can I do to fix this engine?.
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Had my friends shop replace my passenger side exhaust manifold on my 2004 FX4. Two studs at the front broke flush and one other broke but was sticking out of the head. To get room they did the trick of unbolting the trans mount and the passenger side engine mount and moved the engine over. All is back together but started throwing the 53,132, 2195 and 2196 codes, engine seamed to run fine though. Before bringing it back in I decided to check for any simple things, vacuum leaks or connectors that might have been knocked loose. At first I thought this was a good candidate for a vacuum leak but it turned out to be a vent for the front hubs.
My next thought was that maybe the pass side upstream oxygen sensor got knocked during the work and was now shorting out. It is very tight on that passenger side! Truck has 102,000 miles so they were at the end of their lives. I decided to just replace all 4 with OEM units. I used one of the oxygen/mapp gas torches from the hardware store and a 7/8 in wrench. The drivers side was easy and I did not have to remove the drive-shaft like some write-ups discussed.
Although doing that would give plenty of room. Pass side downstream is fairly easy, upstream was a bit tougher. I took out the inner fender skirt and loosened the trans dipstick tube. That gave just enough room for my large hands to reach in and turn the connector so the sensor side of the plug faced out. I used a pick and fashioned a hook out of a coat hanger to pull the connector apart. That ended up being the hardest part. Putting a good amount of heat into the sensor bung quickly made all the difference in getting them out.
Here is what the upstream pass side sensor looked like. Could not see it from below or from the wheel well.
The codes are all gone now (were coming back after one drive before) so I think the sensor was the issue.
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6.4 diesel 2008 F250.... I have been having lots of trouble with low power and sputtering of this diesel truck . It almost seems like a fuel filter but I changed them out 2 times now and the same thing keeps happening . It has been a very cold winter here and if there was any water - it would freeze.
If I am going down the highway and it starts to sputter. I put transmission into neutral and shut motor off with key. Start it up and it's good for less than a minute or two and it's back to sputtering.
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Have a 2008 F350 Lariat Crew cab and I don't have any power coming to the center console power points. I unplugged the cig lighters and check the harness itself but no juice. Fuse 41 and 43 test good am i missing another fuse not listed?
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I bought 08 6.4 113000 on it 4x4 lariet drove 300 miles home. No problem 2 days later runs fine for 45 minutes than loses power and sputters up hills starts no problem every morning every time wait awhile sometimes runs fine was on e when test drove canged both fuel filters oil and drained 8 quarts tranny fluid and replaced it. When problematic rpms wont go over 2 turbo psi seems high seems in sync with rpms dropped...
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On the highway doing 100 mph. during af take over, my Ford F-250 6,4 Super Duty 2008, lost nearly all power. (now it is like driving my old hummer h1)
Engine and car runs/starts great, only 10 minutes uptil 60 mph. now.
My mechanic has given up. He checked following:
EGR = OK
HOSES = OK
ERROR CODES = NONE
INTER COOLER = OK
PARTICLE FILTER CLEAN = OK
TEST WITHOUT EXHAUST = NO DIFFERENCE
FLUIDS = OK
Hopefully something I can fix with my hammer. The car has 85.000 miles on the clock.
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I am switching over to 08 door panels so in my attempt to rewire the door locks I crossed a bunch of wire that I shouldn't have because I had the wrong pin out and I shorted out the circuit. I rebuilt my 08 switches with the 04 parts so now I can reuse my old wiring connectors. I just soldered the old connectors back on and replaced the 30 amp fuse for the power locks. for some reason only the lock function on the passenger side works and it locks both doors but I have no unlock function on the passenger side or anything on the drivers side. Are there any other fuses that I could have missed? I don't have long to do anything invasive but as far as fuses I have all day to replace them. Basically I shorted stuff then I put everything back to the way it was stock and now my locks no worky
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