Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2008 - Knocking Sound Goes Away If Tap The Accelerator
Jun 24, 2014
I have had this truck for several years. I have only had a few issues. I've heard of engine noise issues but I have never had any until now. My 5.4 is making a knocking sound that just started. It goes away if I tap the accelerator. It has over 200,000 miles on it. I change the oil every 3000-4000 miles. No additives and always conventional 5-20. Is this a serious issue? I've seen people talk about using thicker oil but I'm very hesitant.
View 13 Replies
Advertisement
2002 Excursion 4x4 7.3. I've read about this on here before but I've forgotten what the problem is. When the wheels are turned and the vehicle is going forward at some speed, there is a knocking sound, like a ba-doomp ba-doomp ba-doomp. Does it in both directions, sounds like its in the front hub area. I don't have the time to fix it myself, how much should I expect to pay a dealer and/or independent shop to do it?
View 2 Replies
Just became the proud owner of a used 2011 F-250 Supercab, 6.2L. Overall the truck is great but it does have a-few things that need fixing, the most annoying of which is a knocking sound from the rear passenger side cab corner. Sounds like the exhaust vibrating and smacking up against the floorboard but that's not it. Everything seems tight, even the front suspension.
The only thing I can see that may be the cause is the rear passenger cab mount seems worn. I can rotate the bottom rubber portion without too much effort and when I feel for the top rubber portion all I feel is the metal cup on the top, like the rubber has collapsed and the metal cup is sitting directly on the frame mount.
So... how many cab mounts there are for the Supercab? I think there are two on each side and two in the front. All of the information & videos I've seen describe the locations for the crew cab. Also, is it possible to replace the cab mounts and not have to mess with the ones in the front? I hear those are the real buggers.
View 2 Replies
2002 Ford F350 Powerstroke, 7.3L, Automatic, 4 wheel drive .... AFE Stage II Intake, 5" full exhaust, TS 6-position tuner chip, Swamps 140lb injectors
Intermittent accelerator problem: no response, just goes to idle. Runs perfectly with no other issues but zero response when the accelerator it pressed. There seems to be no pattern to the problem as this happens at any speed/position on the pedal. When the accelerator goes out the check engine light in the lower left corner comes on. All fuses are good.
Symptoms began a month or so ago feeling like an occasional 'hiccup' or hesitation. Symptoms occurred a few more times until a couple of weeks ago (Friday, 2/20/15) when it left my son stranded a few miles from home. He was able to limp it to a parking lot and we left it over night and went and towed it back to the house the next morning. The truck started and ran fine just no accelerator so we towed it idling so we would have power steering/brakes, etc. As we neared the house the engine light went out and the accelerator began working and he was able to drive the truck the remaining 1/2 mile home.
Most all of the research I did came back with the Throttle Position Sensor as the culprit. I was able to order one (the complete accelerator pedal assembly that is*) at a Napa store in a nearby town and picked it up on Tuesday (2/24). As soon as I installed it everything worked fine.
As an aside, I have read a lot about the mid-2001 switch from the units with the TPS (Throttle Position Sensor) and IVS (Idle Validation Switch) as separately connected units to the 'new' style where these parts are combined into one and there is a single 5-wire connector. Being a 2002 there was no question as to which one I had. Just be aware of the difference. Also, this part is simple to change. The connector has a clip that you pinch down on with your thumb and then pull off. I use my little electric impact with 1/4" extension and a 10mm socket. Zip, zip, zip an you're done. It takes me longer to get my tools out.
A few days later on Friday (2/27) it presented the sporadic accelerator symptom a couple of times again but was able to get the truck home. The next morning I unplugged, cleaned (CRC Contact Cleaner), and dabbed into the connector a small amount of dielectric grease to insure good connection. (I had read that in my research as well). That seemed to work beautifully and he said it ran fine all day and until the next afternoon (Sunday, 3/1) when it began acting up yet again.
I continued to research and could find nothing that would suggest anything other than the Throttle Position Sensor. I read that some other folks had gone through a few of the Napa/aftermarket units though so I began thinking that maybe I had just gotten a bad unit.
View 9 Replies
I have a 2005 F250 5.4L 2wd. Parked the vehicle in my driveway and the next morning there was no response from the accelerator and the CEL light and the wrench light on. I pulled the codes and came up with codes P2104, P2107 and P2110. The KOEO code was P2122. I checked the wiring and connectors and all appear to be fine I replaced the throttle body and no change. I removed the accelerator pedal and tried it on another vehicle and it worked fine. I have power to pin 16 on the diagnostic port. After clearing the codes and rescanning the same codes come up immediately.
View 14 Replies
I have roughly 104k miles. The weather is trying to get colder. Lows of 45 highs of 80 right now. Last week I was accelerating on to the highway and the truck seemed to have trouble shifting. I hit the accelerator and it did not shift. It would continue to increase in speed but very slowly and would even tend to kind of sputter a little. My engine light came on and has gone off and on several times since then. This has occurred several more times and is always when I hit the highway.
View 5 Replies
So, I'm slowly but surely eliminating a terribly shaky front end on my 2002 F-250 7.3L 4x4. First was a new carrier joint on the front drive shaft. Didn't work much, but the shop said the darn thing was falling apart. Next thing I did was new wheel bearings and manual hubs. Less vibration for sure. But the last remaining issue, in terms of vibration, is that when I let go of the Accelerator going at any speed above 60 MPH, it makes a horrible horrible noise, and I could feel a vibration. It shakes the whole truck, but I can very noticeably feel it directly in the gas pedal. It's really only an issue during deceleration. What could it be??? Drive shaft U-joints? Torque Converter? Something else in the Front End? Something in the engine even?? I don't exactly have the funds to tackle every possible solution.
View 1 Replies
I have a 2001 F250 7.3 with 175K.
Here is the situation. There is a disturbing clunk when I take my foot off the accelerator and a corresponding clunk when I push back down on the accelerator. This only occurs when the vehicle is not under load. That is, it does not happen when going up hill or on any sort of an incline. It does not happen when the automatic transmission shifts. It does not happen shifting into reverse or drive.
It does not happen when starting or stopping. It only happens when I am at 40-60, or so, miles an hour and let off the accelerator and/or press the accelerator again. It appears that I can carefully feather the accelerator to eliminate or, at least, minimize the clunk. I have crawled under the truck and it looks like all the U-joints are tight, I have lubricated the slip-yoke (although when twisted there is, like a mm of play when this is twisted, not much but a very little).
The rear-differential pinion appears to be tight (no side-to-side play or up-and-down play, or at least I can't make it move with my hands). However, when the truck is in neutral the entire driveshaft is able to rotate a half inch, or so, all the way up and down the drive train. That is, the transfer case and the rear differential appear to have a little rotational play in them, but I am guessing this is pretty normal. When in park the entire driveline seems solid.
I have seen from some of the other posts that this sort of clunking can come from leaf springs, hangers and such but since this clunk seems so isolated to acceleration changes when the vehicle is not under load, I doesn't seem like this would be the issue. No clunk when shifting, turning, bumps etc. Everything seems perfect until I am on a gentle downhill or flat and let off the accelerator. Doesn't appear to clunk when going down a steeper decline. All this gets me to thinking that the clunk is caused whenever the driveshaft rotation gets ahead of or behind the rotation in the rear differential.
View 14 Replies
2002 Ford F-250 5.4l ... What is the difference in sound between a lifter tick and an exhaust leak? I have a ticking noise, almost sounds more like a puff of air noise, it only makes the noise when I push the accelerator and is coming from the right side. Noise is most noticeable if I put my head under the passenger side front fender. I am guessing I have an exhaust leak somewhere between the heads at cat but just wondering about the difference in sound. I'd think if it were the lifters they would tick at idle, right? The truck sounds great at idle (after doing a tune up) I just want to get rid of this annoying tick when I accelerate.
View 3 Replies
I bought a 2004 F250 super duty 4x4 with the 6.0 a couple weeks ago and have a few questions. Hopefully all of these things are normal, but I thought I would ask you experienced drivers.
1) Occasionally while driving when I lift off the accelerator pedal I can hear a sort of loud rattle under the hood. I assume this is the turbo shutting down? Is that normal?
2) 4x4 and locking hubs... I have the 4x4 hi and low switch on the dash. Do I need to also manually lock the hubs to go into 4x4? After reading the manual it seems like I can just turn the dash switch and they should automatically lock, but I'm not sure. The hubs are not marked, but going by the pictures in the manual I think I know which is "lock" and which position is "auto" or off.
3) Front wheels hop at full turn. I expected wheel hop in 4x4 or with the hubs locked, but even in 2WD with the hubs in the auto position the tires still "hop" or knock a bit at sharp turns. Is this normal?
View 2 Replies
I have a 99 F250 7.3PSD; I upgraded the tranny cooler after an episode of overheating while backing up a hill.
The truck has done well, hauled a few tractors with it, but recently I have noticed something that seems scary. When going downhill, I often relax on the accelerator. Usually there is some passive engine braking as happens with any auto tranny. Recently, the truck just coasts - it is as if you feel the tranny shift into neutral and you just coast, except I didn't shift. While this is happening, the accelerator pedal will not rev the engine. You can put the pedal all the way down -> rpms at about 6-800. No response.
At the bottom of the hill (so far) the engine gets louder. the rpms drop, and the accelerator works again. Every time, so far. But, if IO am going down hill, and want to accelerate to execute a laneg change or something - I can't. AFAIK, everything A-OK after the new tranny cooler. levels, etc.
View 1 Replies
Recently on two occasions I pressed the accelerator clear to the floor with no response. After shifting into Park then back into Drive it drove normally for about a week. Now it has stalled out and was very stubborn to restart. Once running, the accelerator will sluggishly rev the engine while in Park, but in Drive, will not respond. TPS sensor or something else?
2004 6.0 Diesel, 75K miles, no mods, well maintained.
View 5 Replies
I have a 2008 F250 which has been a awesome truck. Very few issues except for one that no one can seem to fix. Its regarding my brakes and a mysterious reason all of them have to a degree locked up and smoked the pads rotors etc. I now have 80k on the truck and have replaced all brakes once and now the front left have locked up for a second time. The scenario goes like this:
So i'm driving along and if the front brake locks up I can begin to smell it. So I pull over and smoke rolls out along with the overheating popping sound from the effected brake. Rear brakes usually are not found until I stop which i get out and then can smell them. Funny thing is the brakes have locked up when not towing. Also, I have never had more than one happen at a time. So as today all brake pads and rotors have been replaced and now the left front has overheated again. From what I can tell the caliper just doesn't fully release. What could be causing this?
View 6 Replies
I have a 6.8l V10 that ..... seems.... to be knocking. I am used to hearing v8 knocks but not so sure about a v10. The knock seems to double tap sometimes. Could this be a bad valve or lifter instead? Video is linked.
Also oil pressure seems to be fine.
[URL] .....
View 14 Replies
On a cold crank the engine idles rough until it warms or the accelerator is pressed down. Also runs rough going up hills or towing. Check engine light is on and is throwing the code for bank 1 to lean and cat performance below threshold. Cats have been tested, good. Fuel trim tested, good. One mechanic said noth8ng is wrong with it well, there is. 2011 f250 6.2 gas...
View 5 Replies
My 2004 powerstroke recently started making a loud knock during the process of starting. Will make the sound warm or cold, however I mostly hear it when the truck is warm as it cranks a little longer and about two seconds into the crank something starts knocking. After the truck starts it runs perfectly fine.
View 4 Replies
Have a knocking noise on my right front when I hit a hole or when the wheel comes up like when I turn I to a drive way that has a little hill the right tire hits and I hear a popping Boise sounds like its under the truck but I can't place it? I have a 2003 f250 crewcab 4x4 with 6.0 and 6inch lift with 37 inch tires....
View 3 Replies
I have a 2001 6.8l v10 and have nothing but problems. now i got a knocking noise and the oil has water in it. i have no clue what is wrong and on start up it blows white smoke till its warm i have looked at the coolant lvls and they have not changed. the oil pressure is fine while driving but at idle and stop lights and stop signs it drops and the light comes on. i have not had a check engine light yet? what could be wrong? i have blown plugs 5 time 3 coils and 2 head replacements. I hope its just old oil or bad oil i have no clue it is due for an oil change but would just oil oil make all this happen. I also am seeing oil coming form the intake on the throttle body but the oil breathers are right there too.
View 14 Replies
I just got a 2003 f250 5.4 triton and it has a terrible knock. I've hear of the cam phaser problems but this thing knocks at high rpm and at idle so I doubt it would be a phaser, I thought it could be a rod bearing but I'm not losing any oil pressure. Its a pretty loud knock I don't have money for a mechanic to diagnosis it...
View 3 Replies
Does it need a diesel fuel injector?
View 2 Replies
I got ready to change oil in our '09 5.4 SD and I ran across a passage in the owners manual that stated that if you use a non-Motorcraft oil filter it may cause engine knocking upon start up.
Our truck knocks for a second or so when it starts. Kinda' reminds me of the piston slap that occurred at start up with the old Ford 300 inline 6 cylinder engines of the past after they got some miles on them. Sounds somewhat similar. This engine has 35,000 actual miles so I wouldn't thing excessive wear would be the culprit.
I'm using a Bosch Premium oil filter now after having heard and read how they are superior in their filtering ability.
Just wondered if any of you guys have run into a similar situation and if the Motorcraft filter in fact makes a difference in reference to start up knock
View 14 Replies
