Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2008 - High Oil Temps / Cooler Is Fully Or Partially Clogged
May 16, 2016
2008 6.4L .... My ECT 191-197 and EOT 220-230 high side on interstate no load on truck air temp 70 degrees. Is this a sign thermostat failing. Is there a certain temp to determine if your cooler is fully clogged or just partially clogged? I plan on doing a flush with restore then restore plus. Is there any point in using restore with temps this high. Or do I have to break down and buy the half kit to bypass OEM oil cooler? I need this fixed ASAP hauling the RZR to arkansas in a week. I know ill mess something up if i try to pull a load with those temps.
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My radiator has been leaking very little for some time and it is stock after 250k so im sure it is plugged....my engine has been running 202 .... My tranny only goes over 200 while towing...otherwise if is under 190
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I've been battling this high temp issue for a bit now. Here's the recap on my truck.
2005 F250 6.0
120k miles
Edge insight CTS2
New factory Oil cooler
motorcraft coolant -system flushed
Stock EGR- No leakage
Deltas 3-5 degree apart no A/C on
A/C works great!
-Issue- When I turn the A/C on city on normal driving no loads or towing. The temps have gone up as high as 230 eot 230 etc. Ambient temps 83-90F ....
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I have read that the torqshift 5 speed in my 08 f350 he a thermostat in it that opens around 165-170. Is this thermostat to limit/stop the flow to the trans cooler? Does the trans fluid still move freely in the trans (pan, torque converter, valve body, ect), or does the thermostat restrict fluid movement inside the trans?
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I have a 2008 Ford F250 V-10 Superduty and recently I had a transmission cooler line start to leak. I ordered replacement lines and the tool for the quick disconnect. The line that's leaking is from the radiator to the quick disconnect. I was able to replace the one line, however the second line (problem area) has been a nightmare. The line cracked right at the quick disconnect fitting.
The hard line is tight in the fitting and corroded. broke the tool trying to remove from disconnect. The line is flush with the quick disconnect. How to get that out of the fitting? or another method of fix? Its a hard 1/2 line going into connect crimped to rubber line going to transmission.
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Now for the 2nd time my ebpv is clogged with carbon. Is there Any way to keep it clean or am I going to have to clean it every 2k miles? A
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quick question about tranny Temps. My truck is a 16 F250 CCSB 4x4 6.2. I just moved to North Carolina from Florida. It is 100+ degrees every day and my transmission maintains a range from 196 to 203. I know that is perfectly normal.
We were driving around NC yesterday (unloaded) and the Temps outside were in the high 60's. We were in the truck for a total of 2 hours so everything was up to temp. My transmission was ranging from 190-199. I thought the transmission thermostat keeps the tranny at least 196.
So my question for the cooler weather guys...is it normal for your tranny to get as low as 190 during normal operating temps?
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I'm in having emission problems with my 2010 F250 lariat 6.4 diesel truck my DPF filter keeps getting clogged up engine just shut off on me then I sent it to get cleaned professionally got it installed drive it for 20 miles and my pick up shut off on me and left me stranded and I can't seem to pass inspection...
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What are the normal running temps for the tranny of a 2012 f350 6.7?
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2008 F350 when I switch the 4x4 to 4 Hi or low the cluster light doesnt indicate it has switched into 4x4 probably 50% of the time it works 50 it doesnt! I have pulled the transfer case shift motor off tested and working installed a new 4x4 switch, checked the relays it has been to Ford two times last week and once they pulled an error code that says (switch, 4x4 module or wiring problem)! Ford did reprogram the 4x4 module just to see if it would fix it and no change all this leads me to believe its the 4x4 module!?
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I have an 02 250 5.4. 103,000 miles. My truck at random times will not start in below freezing temps. Turns over just fine but Acts as if a frozen fuel line. I can get it running by pouring hot water on the fuel rail or a shot of starting fluid or sometimes both. It's been going on about 3 or 4 weeks now and I have ran through 4 bottles of dry gas with about 15 gallons each time. Also have replaced fuel filter and fuel pressure regulator. I'm 99.9% positive the pump is working and there are no leaks in the lines or holes in tank that I can see. My next step is to drop the tank and clean it out but trying to avoid that.
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Ive got a 99 F250 (5.4 if that matters), after a good long rain like the one we had this weekend, when I drive the truck I get water splashed on the passenger floorboard. It hold enough water that if I rock the truck side to side I can hear it sloshing. I am wondering if there is a common drain for these things that gets clogged. When my a/c runs I get a nice puddle under the truck so it looks like that is not clogged up, and I didn't know if they were the same drain or not.
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My 2006 F350 is starting to heat up on me while at lights and parked while idling. I am going to do a reverse flush with Restore and Restore Plus as per Nylyons guide.
I also plan to switch out the oil cooler and upgrade the EGR.
Engine Oil Cooler Upgraded EGR Cooler Kit Ford 6 0L OHV V8 Diesel Turbo ....
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Bought a 08 F350 with the 6.4 Liter, with 80k mikes on it. Was traveling up an incline. Both Turbo's were engaged, when suddenly I lost boost, and PSI dropped all the way down. They barely create any pressure now. Checked intake, also checked boots too inter cooler. All seem fine. After driving it for about five minutes at low PSI, a check engine light came on. It was a sudden loss of power.
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About a week ago I blew #10 spark plug out of my 1999 super duty. I was able to screw it back in, though it only has 2 1/2 threads now, and was able to put 12 ft/lb's of torque on it. I am driving it around and it is running fine but i am wondering if i am sitting on a ticking time bomb thats gonna blow at a random time, and if so what should i do about it. Should i just run it until the plug fully blows out, or is there an easier and cheaper fix that i could do if i fix it before the threads are fully stripped out. I have heard about Time Serts, but without pulling the head i would be scared of having a metal shaving get down into my cylinder and scratch the hell outta it.
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I've got a thick layer of black soot-like buildup on the lower passenger side of my intercooler. Just bought the truck (2008 F250, 6.4L, CC, SWB, 4x4, 150K miles).
What would cause a buildup like this on the intercooler?
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I have Russell fittings and hose coming to hook up my new 6.0 cooler into my 5.4 powered truck. Have a question on the fittings on the bottom of the radiator for the cooler lines, first what is the 3/8" line called? Is it a double flare or what? And second question the female end that's into the plastic tank with the hex head does that unscrew or is it made into the tank? Trying to figure this out so I can overnight two adapters so I can get rid of the fugly hard line completely and use Russell braided line throughout my install
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My EGR cooler started to leak last week . Right now I have it , the oil cooler and HPOP out for the updated STC fitting. [9-05 Trk. build date with 2 piece fitting]
Yesterday I pulled the turbo apart to check the vanes .Was throwing a 0299 code for some time . It took half the day to separate the Unison ring from the housing,. Cleaned and freed it up. Unison ring shows no wear .but the mating surface of the turbo housing is corroded and not smooth. Shaft end play is fine.Would not put it back on if I were not selling this truck. Truck has 77,000 miles and in great shape.
How critical is having a smooth surface for the unison ring to mate to?
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Recently had an oil cooler EGR cooler replaced. On my first big tow broke down on a major highway. Got it towed to the dealership and diagnosed as a blown out IPR screen. Replace the entire IPR and had no problems the entire trip. A few week later I am sensing the same problems again that i had before the major blowout. Randomly while driving down the highway the truck will stall for a half second or so and then kick back in and continue fine. Seems like the truck loses fuel for a second and then regains itself.
And it's not always at speed either...sometimes just coming to a stop I can feel it. Now this has only happened three times in the past 10 days or so but seems like it needs to get addressed. These symptoms are similar to what I experienced before my major IPR blowout. After it was replaced I didn't have any of the stalling problems but its now happening again. Could I possibly have some gunk in the IPR again that's causing this intermittent problem? Or something else altogether?
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Having problem with oil cooler pump throwing the wrench light? Dealer says it cools the oil and mine could be clogged a bit.. cost of total job around 8-10 k. And take cab off.
It seems when engine gets hot wrench light comes on cause not cooling oil down properly... it overheated. Gauges were very high.. Once when I was in full boost towing a ranger up a hill. First time it ever happened.. pulled over for 5 mins than started temp went back normal and finished tow no problem after that cause I kept boost lower!
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2010 F350 in my shop today. so, before dismantling the entire top of the motor for this inbred oil cooler job, is there anything else responsible for the P012 engine oil temp issue? it throws the wrench icon and cuts power and i pulled the P012F code.
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