Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2008 - Gray Smoke On Startup?
May 6, 2016
A little background. I bought the 2008 F250 XL, 5.4L with 145,000 miles in December. It had a bad engine (dropped valve). I had the engine replaced with a remanufactured one (Performance Products) and started driving it this month. To date, I have put about 700 miles on it with an oil/filter change at 500.
So, here is the newest problem. Yesterday I finished changing my body mount bushings (with Daystar polyurethane ones) and went for a test drive. When I started the engine, a smoke cloud caught my eye. I took a closer look and noticed it was a gray smoke. I jumped out and ran around to smell the smoke - it had a gas smell. I did not test for smoke after my test drive.
So here is my question. It is obviously burning excess fuel on startup. That would mean that one or more injectors are leaking down after shutdown, correct? Testing this would be done by performing a leakdown test? How do I go about doing this WITHOUT any special equipment?
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I have an early 03 f350 with a 7.3 liter 298,000 miles on it
Replaced fuel filter
New oil change and filter replacement, New icp sensor .
Deleted the baffle and installed a cone air filter with the air sensor installed in the neck .
I Was driving home one day and the truck just slumped into this huge power loss . Couldn't get over 2200 rpms and barely made it over 30-40 mph.
Truck in park - idles like crap and still won't go over 2200 rpms when holding the pedal to the floor . And it has what sounds like a miss at a struggling "full throttle" (22-2500) rpms - thought it could be my icp sensor - replaced it -- no change
Checked driver side wiring harness -- no damage chafing found -- did a fuel can to pump test no difference - and today after I reinstalled the fuel line right after I ran my can to pump test I let the system prime . Started the truck and it ran for about 40 seconds and died and wound not fire back up and would just miss and spit and sputter -- lots of gray smoke though- but it fired up a few hours later after I let the batteries sit on charger .
Now before all this happened - I noticed the truck had a bit of a gutlessness to it as I would be piddling around around town and it would have this hesitation in power kind of like a slight jerking feeling , now this truck was so gutless since the day I got it ,I couldn't even burn out on a gravel road without the throttle going limp and the check engine.
Light kicking in so I figured I'd give it a bit of hotshots secret and see if It would maybe flush the injectors but it really made no difference...
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I have a 2008 Ford 250 diesel that is pouring out white smoke from the exhaust when it goes into "cleaning filter" mode. I really don't understand this because I have a dpf delete with a sct tuner. I thought with the tuner and delete the truck wouldn't go into filter cleaning mode. I contacted Ford and they said it was normal for white smoke to come from the exhaust during this process. What's going on maybe tuner is bad?
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I have a 2008 6.4L F-250 and occasionally when I come to a stop I can see a faint white smoke coming out from under the truck and the hood. The smoke has a heavy diesel exhaust smell. When I step on the pedal nothing comes from the exhaust and it does not happen all the time. What is going on?
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Got a weird issue with my 2014.5 with 10k on it today, V6/2GRFE. On Wednesday I checked oil, it was at full drove it to Virginia to pick up a car and I followed it back 150 miles home, looked fine. Sat Thursday, let a family member drive it to work Friday, was fine. Saturday I drove it about 40 miles, was fine. Sunday I moved it around the driveway, was fine.
Today I started it and got a huge cloud of gray smoke out the back. Smoke continued while idling. Shut it off, got a family member to look at it (and make a video of it for future record). Basically on startup it lets out of a big puff of smoke (worse than my old V8 truck with leaky stem seals), then smokes lightly as it idles. Revved the engine and another puff came out, and the smoking did not stop. At this point I called up my dealer and wound up having it towed in as after about 3-5 minutes of running it was still smoking, as I'm under the impression burning synthetic oil is very bad for the emissions control system. Before leaving I let it cool back off, checked the oil and found it about halfway to 2/3rds between full and add on level ground. I did not let it warm all the way up to see what would happen over concern for damage.
Car is sitting at the dealer now, the manager said he'd try to see if they could get to it tomorrow (do have an appointment for Thursday); probably feel bad after the paint fiasco with the last one. Engine ran fine, seemed to be getting good fuel economy this tank, no CELS. I get that 1qt/1000 miles from break down/very minor burning is normal, but not this much smoke and nearly half a quart in 300 probably is not.
I'm also preparing for this to be difficult to pin down as first hand experience tells me oil burning can be a pain sometimes to troubleshoot, but my 91 Camry with 225k on it doesn't smoke like this, and typically valve stem seal seepage (which would be unacceptable though not serious) goes away quickly and presents much later in engine life. Not cold at all and had an oil burning smell to it for sure, but anyone have any normal expectations for what it could be? My 2012 2GR had 34k on it with zero oil use, burning or issues. If they say nothing my plan is to show them a video, and see what they say.
Pretty frustrated as I was liking this car more than my 2012; felt like it ran a little better, got a little better gas mileage, and road/drove a bit nicer too (probably the newer tires). Also had run into zero issues, whereas in the same span of ownership my 2012 already had one paint repair, a recall, and a brake light switch. Just had an oil change in June too at the dealer, verified the level was fine when I got it back, no leaks either.
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I have a 2008 F250 which has been a awesome truck. Very few issues except for one that no one can seem to fix. Its regarding my brakes and a mysterious reason all of them have to a degree locked up and smoked the pads rotors etc. I now have 80k on the truck and have replaced all brakes once and now the front left have locked up for a second time. The scenario goes like this:
So i'm driving along and if the front brake locks up I can begin to smell it. So I pull over and smoke rolls out along with the overheating popping sound from the effected brake. Rear brakes usually are not found until I stop which i get out and then can smell them. Funny thing is the brakes have locked up when not towing. Also, I have never had more than one happen at a time. So as today all brake pads and rotors have been replaced and now the left front has overheated again. From what I can tell the caliper just doesn't fully release. What could be causing this?
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My F-350 has developed a new problem. It wont start. It wont even turn over. All Electricity is on, glow plugs glow, gauges work, lights work, but when you turn the key to the start position noting happens. Some of the indicators go dark.
I even tried a jump thinking my batteries no longer handle the load. Same results. I suppose I can remove the batteries and take them in for testing. In fact, I'll probably do that now.
2002 F-350 Superduty, 7.3 Ltr, Turbocharged. 260000+ miles.
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I have a 99 F-250 SD 4X4 7.3 with about 160,000 miles and still running strong. I haven't been able to troubleshoot a strange clicking noise during the Glow plug / pre start warm-up process. It seems like the noise is coming from a vacuum "relay/ actuator" ( I think that's what the part is) under the hood on the passenger's side. But again I am not a Ford mechanic, nor have I owned this complex of a truck before.
There seem to be two different vacuum terminals that both have two outlets that attach to vacuum hosing. The unit does not have a line ( or 2 ) connected to the innermost vacuum outlet. Does this need to be connected? If I put my fingers on the units outlets to restrict the noise becomes more high-pitched, then will cease to make the clicking sound sooner than if I didn't cover the outlets.
I'm unsure on the process on how to insert a photo. it's asking for a URL, does this mean I need a flickr photo account to transfer the photo? Can I just upload a JPG?
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The last couple of weeks a new clunk has appeared on my F350, 6.2 CC LB FX4. If I've been parked for a while, when I drive off, within the first 30 yards or so there's a clunk. Seems worse when I've turned sharply out of a parking spot. Sounds like the rear diff or drivetrain... I have a locking rear diff. Is this engaged or disengaged while "at rest"? Could it be that its slow to unlock when I start?
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I just picked up my first truck ever yesterday, a 2012 F250 crew 4x4 with the 6.2L gas engine. It seems to me, when the engine is cold, that it raps or knocks for a second or two immediately after startup...is this characteristic? The truck is a 'new-leftover' model with about 28 miles on it so far. When warm, or even semi-warm, the engine starts right up and sounds like a healthy american V8.
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Started my truck this morning. 2000 F350, V10, 153000 on the clock. Immediately sounded like a shotgun went off under the hood, now it sounds like it's running a cutoff exhaust. Had a tiny manifold tick prior to this, but can it backfire hard enough to crack/destroy the manifold?
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Long story short: I bought my 2003 F-250 super duty 6.0 used back in January. It had one Ford OEM battery and one Walmart special. I had them tested and they were both completely flat. Replaced the set of batteries the next day. Since then, upon cranking the truck, the battery indicator will be illuminated while the truck is running. It will stay on for a length of time that varies based on the day. It will eventually turn off after driving a while, but will come back on if I kill the truck and crank it again (like when running to a store).
The batteries have been tested 4 times and test just fine. No problems with the batteries. The OBD 2 computer/monitor I have installed reads a voltage of around 13 when the truck is running. What to do to solve this problem. It isn't a major issue as the truck always cranks fine and the batteries are not damaged or anything, it is more of a annoying thing. It bugs the crap out of me.
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I've been having an ongoing problem with the gear shifter jammed in park after startup. I changed the brake switch and installed a new ignition switch to try fix the problem. Later, I noticed the battery indicator gauge was flat lined even though the truck was running. Out of sheer frustration, I banged the bottom of the steering wheel and suddenly the battery indicator jumped to life and the truck went into gear again.
I took off the panel beneath the steering wheel off to look for any obvious loose wires but found none. This sounds strange but at first, the problem occurred more in the mornings when the weather was cold outside. No, it seems that the battery indicator will flat line while I'm driving in all weather conditions but jumps back up when I tap the steering wheel. I've included a video on youtube to illustrate the problem.
Youtube Video .....
2001 F250 Lariat Superduty 7.3Lm
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My 4x4 on my 2000 model f350 will not engage. The light works, comes on briefly on startup of the engine. When I flip the switch nothing happens. When I jumper the relays nothing happens. I do not have the factory hubs, they r warn hubs and the vacuum line to them is capped off. How to figure this out on why the 4x4 will not engage?
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I just replaced my up pipes, turbo pedestal O-ring, ICP, IPR, New O-rings in all my injectors and torqued to spec, new glow plugs, glow plug relay, oil loom wiring harness, new O-rings on oil cooler, oil filter, oil, and antifreeze. I have tried and tried on upwards of 50 or time to get it to turn over. A little white smoke came out and it sounded like it wanted to fire up, but only a few times. I have good batteries and a charger on it working along, 3-4 trys in 5-10 second burts or longer if it doesnt lose power every 30 -hr. oil is in HPOP too. 2001 F-350 7.3 auto 2wd 4dr longbed 329,611 ml..
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I have a 2008 6.4 powerstoke with 162,000 miles. It went into reduced engine power , so i had a sct x4 tuner with cold air intake and dpf delete installed. i just picked it up and it is smoking at initial start up. Is this somewhat normal...
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Per the instructions I used upfitter #4 and a 21k resistor. High idle works, slight delay and gradual ramp up to 1150 rpm, but why does the wiper turn on for just one wipe now at startup?
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2006 350 6.0, on startup the high and low 4x4 and brake lights come on the dash with a constant tone for a minute or two then stop.
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5.4L... So like many this winter, I had an intermittent crank no start issue. Thought it to be fuel related, based on low fuel pressure readings.
Now all new - battery, iac, cam sensor, fuel pump, fuel filter, fuel pressure regulator, air filter. Cleaned maf, temp sensor and throttle body. Engine starts, but I don't know if the problem is solved.
Fuel pressure is 40 with key on, falls to 35 on start-up, (which seems ok) but then after a few seconds, the pressure drops to 26 where it seems to want to stay. Hitting throttle hard makes it fall to about 20. I can't find any leaks in the fuel lines. Truck seems to run fine while driving.
To me, this doesn't seem good. Engine is not throwing any codes, but the ST fuel trim is running 0 to +3, and as high as +9 on occasion.
Does the consistent drop to 26 sound normal? Should I dig more into it, or just forget about it since truck seems to be running fine?
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Trying to do some trouble shooting on my own as I'm tired of spending $$ with my local "diesel" garage and getting ripped off. To start with, here's my symptoms:
1. Hard (very hard) to start in the morning. Gets harder every morning. Took me 10 minutes of cranking yesterday morning
2. Once it does start it's very loud, seems to run on just a couple of cylinders and lot's of white smoke
3. After about 10 minutes it's able to get down the road but then at about 2300 RPM and above it sputters, low power, and LOTS of white smoke again.
4. Lots of diesel smell, almost like it has a leak but no visible signs of leaking anywhere.
I've done a lot of research and seems to be leading me towards injector problem or in that general vicinity. However, my first step is to try to narrow it down a little more before I start throwing parts at it. So, first question is: what's my best option for downloading codes? I guess I need one that is CAN capable but seems like most of these or either a few thousand $$ or I have to go to something like a Scanguage or Bullydog. I've thought about putting a tuner on but I guess at that point I'm committing to keeping the truck for a few more years.
So, just initially looking for info on diagnostics equipment and/or test that will eliminate the issue(s). Second, need inputs on possible problems based on symptoms listed above that would be great too. Had EGR delete done a year or so ago.
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Sometimes when I start my truck (maybe 2-3x per week) my windshield wipers will wipe one time randomly. They're not on and haven't been on for days.
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