Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2008 F350 - Rear Brakes Got Quite Hot After Driving For About 15 Minutes
Nov 7, 2014
I just changed all the pads and rotors on my 08 F350. The brakes are much better now, only the rear brakes got quite hot after driving it for about 15 min. Turns out the rear parking brakes are dragging on the back brakes. I adjusted the parking brake on both sides so they no longer drag and the heat issue is gone. The problem now it the parking brake does not engage until the pedal runs out of travel. Any tips to get this just right? Will the parking brake self adjust like the old drum brakes and shoes use to do years ago?
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Every time I apply brakes I hear a weird humming noise, as well as no stopping power. Checked fluids and pads and everything is where it should be. I heard abs can cause this but not sure on that. I know my master cylinder has a very small leak but it hasn't lost any fluids of that sort. I'm lost. I don't know where else to look.
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What exactly does the sensor on the rear axle do? 08' f350. I know it's a speed sensor of some sort, but what does it do or control exactly.
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Took truck out for a ride and stopped for gas. I smelled Brakes and upon inspection found the left rear brake pads were not releasing. Any take on what could be holding it? 2008 F-250.
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I have had the truck just under a year. It has 104k on it i only drive it on weekends. Last weekend going to Home Depot about 15 miles got out and could smell brakes burning. Felt the wheels and the right rear was very hot. Got back home no smell but still hot not as hot as earlier. Pulled the wheel off it looks as if the pads and calipers are fairly new paint is still on them caliper is a TRW. The pads were stuck in the carrier even the stainless clip ends look rusted.
Cleaned it all up both sides lubed the pad carrier with pin lube. Pushed the calipers back in some both sides went in easy. The right rotor has definitley been hot. Put it all back together and went for a test drive. Came back no problems checked the temperature with a laser type heat thermometer all wheels were around 140 f. Went out yesterday morning stopped and could smell the brakes again. Drove it back home and the right rear was 300 f. others 150 to 160 f.
Jacked it up put it in neutral and the you can spin the wheels by hand. Started the truck had the wife get in put it in drive wheels turning applied the brakes they stopped let go they turn freely again tried the parking brake it works fine also. So do I buy new calipers and brakes or maybe is the wheel bearing going bad causing the brakes to heat up?ied.
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My 2008 rear suspension creaks and squeaks and groans when I move my horse trailer. Truck has 32k miles, has done since purchase last year, squirted wd 40 and that works. At ford place now, they say it is because I added the ride rite air bags. Told them it made same sound before I installed. What to tell them (tech service bulletins ?) or give up and keep spraying and looking for dry joint?
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I use a bottle hanging like an I.V. drip to flush the Brake Fluid in all my cars. I can pump all the old fluid out, as well as the air. My Superduty 7.3 has a good solid brake pedal after the flush. It seems to me the rear brakes handle 60% of the stopping load. Its been like this for so long I'm not sure if it's ever been different. i then go to a gravel or wet road and test the rear abs, and it seems o work, but definitely has a squirrely feel. I did some strong pavement stops with speed, and it stops, no skidding. Is that the way it should be?
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Got a problem with my F350 diesel truck's braking system. I pull a 5th wheel and last trip almost burned my breaks up coming down long hill due to having no breaks on the 5th wheel. Had a problem early on with the lack of trailer brakes and module was replaced under warranty. Bought a new module this time and it did not fix the problem. Have braking power when I use the module brakes (Hand) but not when I hit the foot brakes. Have checked the system with a meter and have good voltage with hand break but not with foot brakes. Have a good meter (voltage) read with hand breaks and faint read with foot brakes applied. Also have a faint pulsing read on test light with no brakes at all just key on.
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On my 2007 f350 when I hit my brakes it pulsates... So I put new rotors and brakes up front.. The pins are good and the calibers are good... put it all back together and still the same thing... the slower you go the slower the pulsating gets... And I can actually feel the pedal move in and out when it does it... I'm lost....
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I've been having an intermittent stall-out problem with my 2003 F250 5.4L (160k miles). The truck has been retired from DD to farm duty, hauling, and towing only. Over the past 9 months, the truck has stalled-out on me 3x while driving. I will be driving along sometimes at highway speed, sometime slower, and everything will die: no PS, lights go on all over the dashboard. It will not restart right away. I have to wait at least 20-30min to restart it and then everything is fine for several weeks and hundreds of miles.
There are no codes and I have been unable for reproduce it/cause it to happen purposely. My mechanic has changed the Crankshaft Position Sensor, and checked the fuel rail pressures. I also checked all the harnesses and fuses, cleaned the battery terminals, looked for vacuum leaks, and gave it a good look-over. The following are new: battery, IAC valve, fuel filter. After searching the forum I also pulled the fuse box and examined the integral fuel pump relay: it and the board looked perfect, no bulges, cracks, discoloration, etc.
My mechanic thinks this is more likely an ignition problem than a fuel delivery problem.
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I have a 2007 F350 XLT, Super Cab, chassis cab, V-10, 4x4. I ordered it new, it now has 97,000 miles. It is equipped with a 9' aluminum flatbed. I tow it behind my motorhome and also carry a truck camper (not when towing it!).
I don't think the front brakes are working 100%. I have 2 sets of wheels and tires (19.5s for hauling the camper). Every time I change over, I check the brake pads for wear. Over the first 80,000 miles there was very little wear on the rear pads. In 2014 I had almost a complete brake failure while traveling. I took it to a Ford dealer, and they determined the brake booster was bad. They replaced the booster and flushed the brake system. I didn't think the brakes felt right afterward, but I carried on. By 95,000 miles, the rear brakes were worn out. I feel like the rear brakes are doing most of the stopping now, thus wearing out much faster than they were.
I just ordered a set of service manuals for the truck (9.5 years late on that!) hoping to figure out something. I like the truck, it meets my needs, and I hope to keep it quite a while longer. I took it in to the local dealer to replace a leaking rear pinion seal. They found and replaced the worn pads. I trust them to the extent that the pads were worn, as I had already noticed an acceleration in wear. Local dealer that replaced the pads has no idea what could be up. They did clean and lube the front calipers at the same time, but I noticed no difference in brake feel. Stopping power is definitely worse than before the brake failure/ booster replacement.
What might cause this? The only things that come to my mind is a problem with the proportioning valve or maybe the master cylinder. I don't know much about the details of the ABS system. Is there anyway that might be causing the issue? I would rather not just start throwing parts at the problem...
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We have a 1994 350 ford dually. the brake light and the abs light came on and it has no brakes. replaced the master cylinder ... still no brakes. what next?
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I have a '03 F350 that I can't seem to solve the brakes vibrating when applied. Replaced front rotors a couple weeks ago. I still have a vibration when I apply the brakes. What am I missing? I didn't replace the back rotors, but maybe I should have. On the passenger front, the inside pad was almost gone and the outside pad was in good shape. I greased the pins before I replaced the pads the last time, but the inside still wore much faster. I also blew out the rear brake line last week and spent Saturday bending a new line and replacing that so the brakes were bled when I had to replace that. I don't feel the pulsing in the pedal, but the truck shakes pretty good when I hit the brakes. What else should I be checking if the rotors are new and the pads are new and the pins have been lubed and the brakes have been bled?
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I just can't seem to make sense of, 2006 f350 6.0 once it's been running for a min or so it will die when brake is pressed, also dies when you turn the wheel. Can't find any rub through or bad wiring.if you up rpm slightly it will not die with brake or steering. Tried removing belt thinking it possibly was a pulp and it doesn't die with the brake or steering but will die when going from drive to park. Thinking possible cps....
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I have a 2011 F350, with a 4 inch Rancho Suspension lift. Ever since the lift kit was installed, more commonly when turning to the left than right, the anti lock brakes come on and the traction control light comes on/flashes. without even stepping on brake pedal.
It seems to happen when the wheel is at about 80% of max turning, about 15mph. Both wheel hubs and sensors have been replaced. road tested with Ford tech , he watched the speed sensor input while hooked to the computer and all sensor are reading correctly.
Today I went in a constant circle and can make it do it non stop, and when you try to press the brake pedal while the anti-lock (grinding/chattering) noise is happening, it only gets louder.
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I have a 2002 ford f350 triton 5.4 V8. I just put front brake pads on my truck today. Started driving around and i could smell burning brakes. Stopped and alot of smoke was coming from my brakes on my front passenger side but nothing from the front drivers side. Replaced all the brake pads on the front. What is making them so hot?
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Long story short, I need to replace the box on my 2008 F350. Do the boxes from '14-'15 models line up? I know the fuel door is different, but is the rest the same?
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I have an 08 f350, and my cab over lights are out...I've checked net for issues and they all point in different directions... Running and towing lights are fine, just cab over lights are out...is there a fuse somewhere I cant find? could one burned bulb be out and it effects all?
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99 F-250 Ext cab 4x4 7.3 285,000 miles.
I got home today opened my door and got snaked in the face with the smell of brakes. I got out of the truck then I heard the drivers side rear brakes popping as they are cooling down. I reached down to touched the wheel and it's crazy hot. Opened the garage and went to retrieve the infared thermometer. The rotor/caliper was 350 degrees, hub was 150 degrees, axle tube was 90 degrees.
I took the wheel off and inspected stuff. The rotors do have some heat spots, the caliper visibly looks okay but not 100%. The pads look like even wear. I am guessing that the caliper either is hanging up or I have a wheel bearing going? The passenger side was like 80 degrees on everything. There is a slight shimmy while driving which to me feels to me like the beginning of warped rotors. I don't hear anything to me that screams wheel bearing noise wise.Brakes or bearings?
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Yesterday while traveling about 30mph and starting into a slight left turn the steering wheel locked, when the brake pedal was applied it was rock hard and would not engage braking resulting in a single vehicle crash, no injuries. 8300 miles...
How would I make Ford aware of this incident and get them involved? Is it likely that such events may have been logged somehow in the computer? The truck is at our collision repair shop waiting for an insurance adjuster to inspect.
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I have a 2005 Ford F-350 with the V10 4x4. I was backing out of the driveway and it just died. I stopped put the truck into park and it wouldn't crank. The dash lights up and everything else works but the truck will not crank. I continued to attempt to start it and eventually it turned over and ran. It has been doing this intermittently for a couple months but never this bad. I've taken it to mechanics and nobody has been able to rectify.
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