Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2008 F350 Rattles On Rough Roads / Front Outer Axle Rebuild
Nov 3, 2013
I am getting ready to put new axle shaft u-joints in my 2008 F350 (they are shot, they actually rattle on my rough roads). While I am at it I figure I will grease the front wheel brg cartridge, replace the needle brg that is inside the cartridge. I am also afraid I will the axle shaft vacuum seal. I don't want to go to ford an get raped, diesel O-rings doesn't have parts for the newer pickups and I don't want to get junk from the parts houses. Where I can get these parts for a reasonable price? What the best brands are? Are they the same parts as the earlier super duties? I know the lock out is different.
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2001 f350 4x4 dually 7.3 powerstroke, I recently replaced the hub assembly, stub shaft and seal, u joint, ball joints on the front drivers side and now periodically the truck makes a grinding growling vibration coming from front drivers side and stops after hitting a bump...
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What exactly does the sensor on the rear axle do? 08' f350. I know it's a speed sensor of some sort, but what does it do or control exactly.
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Do I need a special tool to put the outer axle seal on a 2003 excursion? I could make one if I new how far down it needs to be. I'm replacing the needle bearings in the back of the hubs and it looks like the last seals were not on far enough and the hub tore them up....
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The issue is with my 2000 F350 crew longbed V10. Other than a BTS trans put in a little over a year ago, and FoMoCo motorsports headers, the whole truck is bone stock. Oh, it has that fantastic auto-hub thing with the fake locking hubs and the little switch on the dash (I'd love to convert it to a manual shifter...?). 174k on chassis, so things need to be done, 40k on engine, 3k on BTS 4r100.
Yesterday I was running around town, made a stop, and when I started moving again got a loud grinding from the front axle. Thought maybe I'd picked up a rock in a caliper or something, so I jumped out and checked everything, no joy. Moved forward, there it is again. No vibration, but loud enough (or telegraphing enough) to hear clearly in the cab. Let the truck roll forward, popped in to neutral, noise fades away. Back in to drive, there it is. So, now I know it's trans/t-case/driveshaft/related. I recently put new vacuum lines in, checked all the connections, and pulled, cleaned and lubed the hubs.
And since the trans is a nearly new BTS that is working just find, I'm narrowing the search to the hubs, drive shaft, t-case.
Get home (noise abates above 30mph, or everything else drowns it out), crawl under, and find the front driveshaft is locked. Ok, stuck hub? Pull out both the fake locking hubs, and now the shaft turns. I can turn each front axle by hand at the u-joint, and I kinda hear a faint grinding on the right side (will bad needles make noise only under a load from the trans and not coasting in neutral?), and when I swing the drive shaft around the left axle moves, right doesn't, etc etc.
I'm going to pull the drive shaft today and check the U joints, and drive a bit to see if the noise is still there, but I am thinking I might have some bad needles on the pax side axle...
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How do I get the front axles out of of the knuckle? It seems like the seals are holding them in? Is there any trick to to getting them out,I am trying to do my ball joints
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A bird and a rattle snake under hood, I've got a chirping when I turn, thus the bird. I've got a rattle on rough roads, thus the snake.
My guesses are... Power steering pump & front shocks. There's no other determinable problems with the steering or suspension on this 2WD.
230K on the ol' girl, previous owner took pretty good care of her.
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1999 F250 SD 4x4 7.3 PSD ... My truck has 198K miles on it. It pulls to the left as I drive it. So I took it to a shop to have the alignment checked. They told me that the front outer tie rod was bad and needed to be replaced. And of course they said they needed to put in a set of caster camber bushings to do the alignment. They quoted $400 to change the tie rod out. I said I would do that. They gave me the print out from the alignment but reading it the only thing that was out was the toe. Left tire was toe out and the right tire was toe in, which to me would cause it to pull to the left.
I got under the truck and the steering link, piece that goes from steering box to right side/tie rod, is not tight...I can move it up and down and it clunks when I roll it up. I have a clunking noise when I drive it and go over bumps also. Could this be the clunking noise? Also, if I replaced the ends of the steering link, that would tighten up but possibly push the steering back to the right some to straighten out the tires? I have read alot of threads talking about the clunking being tied to the sway bar bushings being bad but the clunking I get by rolling the steering link up and down sounds alot like the noise I am hearing.
Also, when looking at the axles where they go into the knuckle, there is a loose plastic ring on both sides. Is this part of the dust shield or an oil seal?
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I'm trying to find to rear axle ratio on my 2001 F-350 dually and the axle code seems to be missing.
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Putting in a locking axle to replace there non locking axle? Have a 2015 f350. And found a electric locking for a great price. Can this swap be done?
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Put new backing plates, parking brake shoes, springs, etc on my 2004 F350 DRW 4x4. Replaced the inner hub seals and axle o-ring. Filled with Ford Rear end lube and went for a test drive. All was well. Went out last night to take her out again and I've got diff lube running out of both sides on the inside of the rims. Did Ford sell me the wrong seals? Could I have installed the seals wrong? Ford seal part number is 4C3Z1S177A. Axle is a Dana 80, confirmed by reading the tag on the diff.
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I was looking underneath the truck yesterday and saw that the rear end pinion seal was leaking. Looked like it had been for a while. Truck has 35,850 miles on it. Unscrewed the fill plug and a lot of pressure is released. So I'm assuming the breather is clogged somewhere along the line. I have an appointment at the dealer on Friday to see whats wrong. What is supposed to be at the end of the breather tube? Mine has a barbed 45ish degree fitting on the end of it. Its a SRW by the way.
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2005 Ford 350. I want to change the ball joints on the front axel and I cant remove the axle out of dif. to remove the ball joint housing. I have been prying and pulling and it just moves out a 1/4 inch or so .They tell me there is no ring to remove in dif before you can pull it out but why this trouble?
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I have a 2015 F250, cc 4X4 PSD. It has 22,000 miles on it. I notice a small quarter sized drop of oil after it is parked by the right side front wheel. It is coming from behind the dust cover and universal joint where the axle goes into the tube. I dont know how long it has been leaking. My issue is I am about 800 miles from home on a camping trip, have to go back to work Monday, and lcoal dealer here can't take it in till next week. So, if the hubs are not locked and the truck is in 2 wheel drive, the gears shouldn't be turning right? I assume it is ok to drive home. I didn't want to pull the plug and check the fluid because if any runs out and leaves a stain on the cover, I don't want ford trying to deny warranty claiming I messed with it first.
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Check out the pics. 99 f250 4x4. I have a leak in my front axle shaft. It looks like it is coming out of the dust cap on the end of the front shaft. I am pretty sure it is differential fluid from the smell. Is there a seal before the dust cap? Is the shaft hollow with fluid in it? I thought it was just in the differential and if it leaks it is at the seals where the axle goes into the differential not at the otter end.
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I have a slight problem and don't know how serious it is. I own a 2003 F350 with a lift kit. After my drive shaft shattered last September. due to a U-Joint a clicking noise started up in the front axle area after we locked the hubs so we could crawl it down the road out of traffic.
What would be the likely causes and how much would a typical repair/replace cost?
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I am not up on the exact operation of the hub lock/unlock on superdutys but when following them, I can see the front axles still turning with the wheel. So even with them "disengaged" they still turn with the wheels?
If that is the way they are designed to do, why? Seems like efficiency could be gained by having them actually disengaged when not needed. And save wear on the inner housing seals.
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I noticed the other day after my truck was parked on a bit of a angle there was diff oil from the passenger side on the ground. reading a bit on here i learned the axle seals are way in the front housing close to the front diff. and yesterday driving a heavy load around my front brake driver side got stuck on a bit and over heated and was smoking, couldn't even touch the rim it was so hot. anyway about this axle seal i got the hub off right now but cant seem to pull out the axle assembly through the knuckle but i see i have to pry and most likely wreck that seal. Looking for a link of piuctures or how to replace the axle seals in the housing.
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It's the Right Front Axle Shaft on my 2006 F250 where it goes into the Hub/Bearing assembly.
Seems way to loose to me but after I removed the Lock-Out, I discovered the Axle Shaft is held in by a Snap-Ring not a Nut (WTF) so how do I get this tightened up
Also it's my understanding (I didn't remove) between the Axle & Steering Knuckle there's a rubber O-Ring. Could all this play be from that O-Ring being wasted Although that doesn't seem likely to me, Iam worried what's wrong
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So the other day I took my locking hubs out and cleaned them really good. When they were out I noticed I could grabs axle shafts inside the hub and wiggle them quiet a bit. Is that normal?
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I have my front axles out to replace the U-Joints but they are rusted in there. Even the C-Clip is fused/rusted in place. I use my flat wheel grinder and ground out the C-Clips but the U-Joint caps wont budge. Been soaking in penetrating oil too. Any way other than drilling them out?
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