Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2008 F350 - P0088 Code / HPFP Replacement
Sep 6, 2017
2008 F350 6.4 ... So I've been reading all about the spartan tuner throwing the P0088 code, and the ford band aid fix, I guess my question is, I'm going to have my HPFP replaced for peace of mind. Truck has 106,000 miles on it. Will i have an issue at the dealer if I show up with my tuner/exhaust on the truck? I'm not worried about warranty obviously, I just want to know are they going to have to unplug the tuner? Or something, I am just concerned how they'll go about putting the new HPFP on.
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Replaced HPFP 38,000 miles ago. Truck began going in limp mode without engine light, wrench came on in dash, gave codes for brake switch, anti-theft, some other weird codes. Had those codes cleared, ran for while then water separator came on, drained the water out, came back on. Read some forums, so I removed and cleaned the housing, cleaned off the sensor. Had code cleared and ran good for about a week. Then guess what engine light comes on, limp mode.
Went to Auto Zone, pulled code P0088. This truck runs awesome until limp mode. No other problems. I take it to the ford dealer, scanner pulled P0088 and the water separator code again. I have read alot of remarks about this P0088 code. Can there be another cause for pulling this code, only 38,000 miles later. I had them do the TSB 12-07-07 but I have also read it can only be done if the P0088 is the only code. I just really feel there is an underlying issue with these 6.4's.
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So I'm not sure if I bought a lemon, but i picked up a F-350 6.4 Turbo Diesel two days ago and the check engine light came on yesterday. It's giving me a P0088 Code as well as the P0088pd. It's got 131,000 miles on it so no warranty will cover me.
I'm tracking the TSB put out telling the techs to replace the HPFP, but they mention a loss of power. I've only had the truck for two days, but I've driven them for work before and I can't detect any loss of power. Besides the code, everything seems to be running fine.
What can I can try out before running out and changing the HPFP? I'd rather not cut so deep into my savings if I don't have to.
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I have a 2015 SRW f350 and has been fairly problem free. Last Thursday I was driving home and I received the reduced engine power and code popped up P0088, high pressure fuel rail issue.. anyway, I just popped over 36k miles, the truck is at 36,278 miles, so I take it in thinking they will goodwill it.
I get a call saying they can't clear the code and the TCM AND PCM can't communicate and they have to reach out to Ford engineering. They find the PCM is corrupt, they call me twice and ask if the truck has been tuned, the answer is no, but then pin me against the wall saying I am the second owner, which I am, and that it could have been tuned prior. I tell them to prove it, you can see if there has been a tune. The truck truly has never been tuned, it was sold at Ford factory auction as a employee vehicle.
Now they are trying to tell me the corruption was due to the tune, which it never had. But they won't goodwill it and say I am responsible for all the diag and work done, I say no. I say this should be a warranty issue and should be covered, they say it was tuned, I told them to prove it.
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I have a 08 F350 CC with the factory fog lights. One of them has burnt out. Do I replace just the bulb or the entire unit? Is there a part number?
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The trans temp guage on my '08 F-350. V-10 started acting erratically, and the wrench icon popped up on the display. i crawled under the truck to look for the sending unit and it's lead. i assume that i found the lead. it is encased in a corrugated sleeve, and appears to be a vaccuum type tube and boot connector? the boot still had a small round gray cap plugged into it. it appears that the cap was never glued (go figure) upon assembly. i have tried to reach up on top of the trans to find the sending unit to figure out the best angle of attack. i can barely touch it with the tip of my finger. going with mechanical guages is out of the question at the moment, so i'm wondering can it be driven any distance this way, AND any schmooze tricks developed to get at the sucker without dropping the cross member or exhaust????
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I keep getting a lean bank code. I have cleaned tb and replaced one of the rubber lines. It only comes on when I take a good ride with the truck. Not sure what else it could be. I'm thinking O2 sensor maybe.
2008 F-350 5.4 3V. 65k miles
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I have looked at many of the other treads and I can not find the answer. How do I locate the keyless entry code sticker in my 2008 F350? I just bought the truck used, I do not have the card that is delivered with the truck and I don't want to pay the Stealership to hook it up to there computer. I am looking for the RAP or the computer module as it is called in the owner's guide.
It is not behind the glove box, there is no longer a fuse access panel under the dash like the earlier SD's, the drink holder under the upfitter switches does not "pop out." Before I start with any tools, I am looking for input.
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This truck ran 100% fine with the tuner, exhaust DPF/EGR off, i had received an HPFP code because the tuner is used to the old ford flash, not the new flash that widen the HPFP parameters, the one that Ford screwed over your 100k warranties. Anyhow, i took it to the dealer to get the HPFP replaced. My truck ran fine I just wanted the HPFP replaced as I'd rather pay 3k$ now than 10,000$ when it gets shavings in the line.
I told them there is a tuner on it, apparently they took the tuner off and reflashed it to fords most recent programming. They called me and said it won't start. So i came up to check it out and turned the key cluster came on, but no crank, no starter, nothing. as if a security parameter was in place or something. Plugged the tuner back in and tried to install a tune to see if it would fix it. No luck there.
Is this a case of them running the truck with the tuner off and it going into regen thinking the DPF is there? You can turn the key and the cluster goes on and now has a wrench symbol as it didnt when i brought it in. What are my options? I know i made a mistake taking to them, but i didnt think they would take it off and screw it up. Im pissed because theyre telling me its my fault with aftermarket parts on it. Even though my truck ran fine before coming to them now it wont move...
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2004 F350 Lariat Crew Cab. My truck has been repeatedly attempted to be broken into through the keyhole. This time they fully punched it through the door, and now i have a hole where the lock should be.
I researched stuff like jimmi-jammers etc, but for the time being.. I am looking just to pick up a set of handles without keyholes. I have remote-less entry and keypad.
Couple questions... Would rear door handles off a crew cab, fit to the fronts? they look the exact same minus the keyhole.. and this would likely be the easiest to find.
Or... Is there any good websites i can take a look at that will manufacture keyless front driver and passenger side handles? They're textured black, and i would like them to match as best as possible.
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Any good info on front brake replacement parts to get better braking out of these beasts? My pads are now needing replacement but I would like to get better performance than that of factory parts....
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Question. My Son borrowed my 2006 4-wheel F-350 and broke down in Vermont. 8 hrs from me. Told me he heard some noises from the left front and then the abs light came on. I had him jack up the front and check for bearing play in the left front. Alas, He said between 1/4" and 1/2" of play. I bought the new hub and bearing assembly to drive up there with tomorrow morning. The locking hub will come right off. I just replaced them 4 months ago. I will be bringing a crap load of tools, but anything specific i should bring? I wont have torches so I am hoping the hub will brake free.
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I recently replaced my Ford Factory clutch with a new LUK kit, lever, pivot & hydraulics and I have to say it is absolutely perfect. If you are going to take the time to do the clutch, do it all. While we had it apart, I decided to push up my Up-Pipe replacement and do it while the transmission is out. What takes several hours to do is done in 30 mins this way. As we all know when we start in a job, we see other things and say well while it is apart I may as well do this, and do that. I decided to do the U-joints in the rear shaft. I had marked the shafts prior to removal for orientation but my assistant did not mark all 3 U-joint knuckles when he changed the joints and reinstalled the shaft.
I took the truck out for a drive and starting at about 15 MPH all the way to 60 ( I dared no faster) it was making me nauseous. Today I looked into it, marked current locations and started rotating front and rear joint 180 to no avail. I said lets just rotate the center joint and go from there. as I was pulling the carrier i noticed a HUGE but dull yellow arrow on the short shaft. I decided to look at the rear shaft and found a HUGE but dull yellow arrow 180 degs from the front. It looks like it could have been a factory mark. I repressed the center u-joint so the 2 arrows line up and the vibration went away. I can not express the aggravation this could have caused if not for those arrows. Take the time to properly index the drive shafts, it will save you tons of time and agitation.
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Using LED replacement bulbs? I have a 2008 super duty. Want to upgrade lighting.
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Long story short, I need to replace the box on my 2008 F350. Do the boxes from '14-'15 models line up? I know the fuel door is different, but is the rest the same?
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I have an 08 f350, and my cab over lights are out...I've checked net for issues and they all point in different directions... Running and towing lights are fine, just cab over lights are out...is there a fuse somewhere I cant find? could one burned bulb be out and it effects all?
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I had a 05 f350 5.4 3v come into my shop with a CEL. Did the usual it had a p0307. So I did the usual again changed plug and coil plug cam out no prob they were done 15k ago. Test drove a few times and it was fine. Few days later customer brought back with same code p0307. thought maybe I got a bad plug or coil so I moved them to #6, misfire stays on #7. When I drive it local its fine when I go to pull on to highway and really put my foot in it CEL flashes (misfire) and it pings like crazy and loses all power. Scan it back at shop and still only p0307!!
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2010 F350 in my shop today. so, before dismantling the entire top of the motor for this inbred oil cooler job, is there anything else responsible for the P012 engine oil temp issue? it throws the wrench icon and cuts power and i pulled the P012F code.
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Just picked up new 2014 F350 lariat today and I can't figure out how to change the keypad code. I enter the factory code and hit add, but when I enter a new 5 digit code it wont let me hit enter.
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On my 2008 SD F350 my number 1&2 settings on the fan don't work. Only 3&4. What's the problem? How do i fix it?
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I have an 08 f350 lariat with the 6.8 with 66000 miles. A month ago took it to the dealer with a plugged catilityc converter. All covered under warranty. Got the truck back, starts great when cold including 18 degrees the other morning. I drive 7 miles to work, shut it off and restart, it acts as if the starter is struggling to turn the engine over. Once it cools off, starts fine again. I took it back to dealer, they replaced the starter. No change. Took it back again, they replace battery. Cranks a little faster, but you can tell it's still struggling. It always starts, I'm just wondering how it will be when it's 80 out and in pulling my 9000lb camper....
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