I have a 2008 f250 superduty with the v10. Just today I was driving and engine picked up.slight miss it's rainy. I thought coil pack, but it left me on side of road. Got fired limped home won't go more than 40mph. Runs rough, no power, checked codes and get P0340, p0357, p1336, and P2195.. Where to start.. My daily driver and have to get back on road.
View 1 RepliesMy '05 F250 (5.4) started misfiring and threw codes for p0300, p0305, p0307, p0308,and p2198. I used an inline spark checker to check cops, which all had spark. Replaced 5, 6, 7, and 8 plugs and cleared codes. Ran truck for a few minutes and codes came back. Switched #5 and #6 cops and cleared codes. 5,7,and 8 cylinders still misfiring (same codes). Truck only has 36,000 miles and spent alot of time just sitting. Plugs were original plugs.
Replaced 5-8 with Autolite OEM replacements. I haven't checked cops for resistance yet. Weather was pretty cold when problem started. Threw in about 10oz. of Lucas to no avail. I had this problem last winter with the same cylinders throwing codes. Threw some Lucas in the tank and idled truck for approx. 1/2 hour and problem went away except for stumbling most every time truck came to a stop. I'm starting to wonder if it's a coil or a fuel issue.
My dads truck started misfiring last week, first thing i did was scan the codes and got p0303, p0304, p0305, p0306, and p0308. Its an 08 F-350 5.4...already changed out the spark plugs and the same codes came back. I decided to do some further testing and so far all coils had spark as well as 12.4 volts going to each. I did check the switching signal and that was present as well.
Moved on to the injectors and i checked each connector with my noid lights and it flashed on all cylinders. Did a resistance check on each injector and they all registered 12.4 ohms. We did switch some coils around and all the same cylinders misfire. My next step is to do a compression test.
My biggest question is if there are any common problems with these engines besides the coils, by the way this truck has the brown coil boots and the spark plugs that dont break in the engine.
Just got a 2008 F-250, truck has the center console jump seat and the console lid is missing. Can you just buy a new lid or do you have to buy the whole thing? Cost? Places to buy?
View 4 RepliesI have a 1999 ford f250 with a 6.8 liter v 10 engine. At about 40mph the truck will start missing and lacks power to accelerate further. This problem is intermittent. Some days it runs great and others the miss appears. Well I scanned and the code reader said that I had a misfire on cylinder 7. I took a chance and replaced the COP and the boot for that cylinder . Ran great for a day and then the miss came back. Same code again. What else might cause this? Are plugs difficult to change in these engines?
View 6 RepliesMy truck is a 2003 f250 / 2wd automatic, 7.3 powerstroke, 284000 well maintained miles.
Just last week I sprug a large oil leak and had to replace the hoop outlet o rings..problem solved. This week I can drive 15-20 miles on the freeway and the truck starts to act like ota running out of fuel. Bogs down to 40mph then starts missing. I pull over, and when revving I have un burnt fuel and oil smoking out of my tailpipe. I let it sit for 5-10 minutes and it will be fine for the rest of the drive and this happens intermittently, there is no pattern.
The truck has a ton of power, starts great hot or cold. I did a ton of research and found a IPR could possibly cause this, as could plugged screens in the fuel pickup. Then I read about all the injector harness issues but I don't think that I my issue.
I have a 2006 F350 SRW 4WD 6.0 with 127000 miles on it. A couple of weeks ago it, pulling out of my driveway, it hesitated and tow haul started flashing. I had codes pulled and it showed P1780, P0751, and P2700. After turning off, codes were gone and tow haul off. Ran fine since then every day. Yesterday while going about 50 mph it started acting like it was in neutral (revving up), nothing happened when mashing the accelerator. Coasted to a driveway and truck would not move, only sounded like it was in neutral.
View 1 RepliesI have a 2012 F250, 6.2L, Crew Cab, FX4 with a little over 77,000 miles on it. I bought it used from a Ford dealership last summer. Prior to now, I've only had one issue with it and that was squirrel/rodent induced. Something chewed through the wiring harness right before the connection to the #7 cylinder. There was enough left over wire to solder it back together and put heat shrink around each wire.
It ran fine up until last weekend. The wife and I went to a store, she was driving and parked like a total jerk right in the front area of the parking lot. When we got back in the truck, she started it up and it was just running rough with hardly any power. My first thought was someone dumped something into the gas due to her amazing parking, but there were no smells or residue of anything near the gas cap when we got home only a couple miles away.
When I got home I ran my code scanner and found 300, 301, 305, 307, and 308. I dumped a bottle of ISO-Heet in it, let it sit for a bit then cranked her up and ran it for a few miles to the gas station and filled up...about 25/26 gallons, I don't remember...I was a little above 1/4 tank when this all started. No change in performance and the codes were all still the same. I pulled the MAF, it looked clean, but I wiped it down anyways and threw it back in. No change. I then changed all the plugs. This took care of 301 and 305 but 300, 307, and 308 were still coming up. I then picked up two new coil packs for cylinders 7 and 8, threw them on and still no change.
I sat with it running on a flat surface for a little while revving the engine randomly for about 15 minutes, during this I noticed a fast tapping noise at about 3400 RPM, it went away quickly with no changes in the gauges on the dash. I cant really tell where it's coming from, but kinda sounds like its under the middle of the truck. While sitting there I ran the codes again, and now its back to 300, 301, 307, and 308. I'm now at a loss of what to even look at...
I've also checked the voltage coming off the harness at the connector to the coil packs...just under 11 volts. I've searched all over for what that voltage is supposed to be, but have failed miserably in my searches.
2008, 5.4 liter, F250, with 6-speed manual transmission
My truck was running fine until I decided to clean my engine. I just wanted to remove the extra dust covering it, so I used a low pressure garden hose to wash away the dirt that had accumulated last winter and spring.
It started throwing codes like Fuel Rail pressure sensors, P0191, P0192. I had no power, and I could hardly drive the truck.
I figured I had some water in some connectors, so I checked around, but could not detect any moisture.
I kept driving it, and the problem got less severe. One warm summer day, I drove my truck for about an hour trip, and everything looked fine after this. Problem never came back.
I was even noticing that it was better on gas that ever before, I was doing 11liters/100km, in city driving.
Until one day (2 months later), I had to disconnect the battery to do some servicing on my truck (more that 30 minutes), and it started to run crappy again, having some piston misfire, throwing codes P2198 and P2196, (O2 sensors). No power, if I am very gentle on the gas pedal, I can manage it, but as soon as i try to accelerate, runs like crap, black smoke coming out of the exhaust.
The problem comes and goes, sometimes, the problem stops, and I can get going, no issues. Air filter is clean, even tried with no air filter, no differences., but it really sounds like bad air/fuel mixture.
I have spent alot of time looking through threads about v10's misfiring and have not been able to resolve my issue. I recently purchased a 2000 v10 f250 with about 220000 miles on it I bought it knowing it had one miss fire but now I have a total of three. Te truck has no problems accelerating but at a little over 40 mph the engine shakes quite noticeably and after 60 i5 seems to smooth out. After alot of reading I replaced all of my plugs and ignition coils, ran a can of sea foam through my gas tank and my intake with no change to the miss fires. I have started my trials with the fuel injectors by switching them from miss firing cylinders to ones that aren't. Some other information is my truck has no egr on my intake.
View 4 RepliesI have a 2004 F-250 with a 6.0 and a 6-speed with 140,000 miles. It has been studded, and has upgraded injectors. ( Not sure on the size, they bored them at at the diesel shop that studded my heads.) Also have an EGR delete, with the EGR turned off on the SCT as well. I also have a SCT Livewire set on the 65HP tow tune.
Truck has always ran great in the year and a half I have had it. I changed the oil three days ago, and now I am getting a miss at idle. The trucks cranks right up and drives normally. Once it is at operating temperature, when I stop at a light it has a very noticeable miss. There is no surging, or change in RPM's at all. Just seems like it is cutting out every few seconds. This is also somewhat intermittent. FICM shows 49 volts always, even when this is occurring.
Also, this may be unrelated, my oil temperature seems higher since the oil change. Was around 192 water/197 oil while cruising 70 on the interstate. Now, its' more like 192/202. I've always ran Motorcraft 15w-40, and that is what I used for this oil change as well.
I see some people have a similar problem, but all the posts I've read involved fluctuating RPM's or surging, or both. Other than this, the truck cranks and runs just like normal.
6.4 diesel 2008 F250.... I have been having lots of trouble with low power and sputtering of this diesel truck . It almost seems like a fuel filter but I changed them out 2 times now and the same thing keeps happening . It has been a very cold winter here and if there was any water - it would freeze.
If I am going down the highway and it starts to sputter. I put transmission into neutral and shut motor off with key. Start it up and it's good for less than a minute or two and it's back to sputtering.
I have recently purchased an 04 F250 crew cab with the 6.0 power stroke, it has a cold air intake, 4inch exhaust from the turbo back and has a program in it but programmer didn't come with the truck. When I sit at a traffic light and go to leave on a green light the truck kind of hesitates or acts like it's missing out( maybe loading up) shoots out black smoke then runs fine, it doesn't do it at all the stop lights but does get irritating. If I get it flashed back to stock settings will the truck run normal with all the upgrades?
View 4 RepliesMy trouble is upon turning key to start everything goes dead (no power to anything). Does not always happen, sometimes she starts just fine.
After the power cut out if I turn key off, wait a minute, then back to on position she will sometimes come back as normal or sometimes the on "ding" will chatter and dash lights will be dim.
I have checked batt connections, starter/solenoid connections, block ground connection. All seems fine. Get same problem when I jump starter with screwdriver. Been suggested to me ignition switch to blame.
Like the title says, if it sits over night the battery will be about dead. The cables were replaced 6 months ago and are in good shape. I could not find and bad spots on the wires I can get to. One odd thing to note, with the key out of the switch I opened the passenger door to check the glove box light and the truck started chiming like I had opened the drivers door with the key still in the switch. Would that indicate maybe the key switch could be the issue?
View 14 RepliesOn the highway doing 100 mph. during af take over, my Ford F-250 6,4 Super Duty 2008, lost nearly all power. (now it is like driving my old hummer h1)
Engine and car runs/starts great, only 10 minutes uptil 60 mph. now.
My mechanic has given up. He checked following:
EGR = OK
HOSES = OK
ERROR CODES = NONE
INTER COOLER = OK
PARTICLE FILTER CLEAN = OK
TEST WITHOUT EXHAUST = NO DIFFERENCE
FLUIDS = OK
Hopefully something I can fix with my hammer. The car has 85.000 miles on the clock.
My v10 has a cold miss when i start it in the morning no matter what the temp. It misses until it gets up to operating temp.then it runs fine all day with a slight miss.
- Changed plugs,
- Changed pcv,
- Changed iacv,
- Cleaned map sensor,
- Changed tube to pcv,
No codes. Its running as if it had a carb and the choke is closed. No smoke, tach. idles between 750 down to about 500, until it warms up then tach. Stays steady.
I was washing my 2004 F-250 today and I looked down by the front passenger wheel well and I noticed a small chuck missing from the bottom of the frame. The other side in the same spot doesn't have it and at the spot in question, I noticed some sort of crack had been welded before. I never had any of that done to the truck. What about getting it fixed? get it fixed right away or keep an eye out for cracks. so far its just that hole and what looks like a welded crack above. everything else seems fine. I know a repair would be inexpensive and easy just to weld a steel or titanium plate on the spot.
View 11 RepliesI have 2005 f250 5.4l 3v that was having miss problems between 1200 and 2000 RPMs. Changed VCT solenoids which worked, but then could hear chain hitting cover when powering down throttle on left side. Figured chain tensioner was bad, so tore down and removed timing cover. Found left chain was tighter than what seems normal, and right side had huge amount of slack. While taking off tensioner on left side, something happened to fast for me to see it, and still not sure if what happened wasn't just my imagination. I thought that the chain moved very fast for an inch or two. Anyways, I watched how to video on timing the 3v, but I am very confused about it. The left bank seems to line up on timing marks perfectly, but the right chain is off by at least 2 1/2 links. Not knowing any better, I removed three rockers on left bank (2 intakes and 1 exhaust) but only removed two intake rockers on right side. I don't know what I am doing and getting scared.
View 1 RepliesI bought a 99 f250 super duty with v-10. Ran great then I decided to hose off engine compartment. No pressure washer just running water trying to get all the dirt off now the engine sounds like its missing. Could I have a coil pack that got wet or is something else wrong.
View 3 RepliesI have 2002 F250 4x4 with 5.4 V8. It has auto locking hubs. If I haven't used the 4wd lately I have to manually lock the hubs in, right side sticks, so I have to use pliers to lock into place. After a few times it works in auto fine. Anyway my issue. I went to use my 4wd so I manually locked the hubs, hopped in the truck and flipped it into 4wd. When I did the instrument cluster died. Radio, power windows and locks, turn signals all work. I just don't have any speedo, tach, fuel gauge, water temp, battery, no odometer. All went blank. I checked some of the fuses that I thought it could be from the owners manual but still no luck.
View 3 Replies