I'm having an issue on my 2008 f250 power stroke. My telescoping mirrors are causing the fuse to blow instantly when I hit the button. Where to start looking for a short?
View 2 RepliesI'm replacing tow mirrors on my 2004 F250 with 2008 mirrors. Both are factory Ford mirrors. Need wiring diagram since connectors and wires are different. They both have power mirrors, turn signals, heated mirrors, but are not power retract or fold.
View 1 RepliesAnother question on this, my 2008 F250 with auto climate has decided to only blow heat on the passenger side...do you agree that it is an actuator? If so how hard or easy is this to fix and what is the best fix.
While here, on another note, I noticed a rubber line hanging right over my front diff it looks like it could go onto a nipple coming off the diff? Is this a vacuum line for the diff that I need to put back?
While cleaning the door handles the switch to extend and retract the side view mirrors hung was depressed and evidently got stuck as it was still pressed in. My hope is that this just blew a fuse and not burn up anything. The mirrors still fold and can be adjusted just not extended. Is there a fuse specific for this that may be blown?
View 2 RepliesHow to remove the side mirrors (top and bottom) on my 2016 F250? I don't need to remove the entire assembly (off the door), just need to get behind the mirrors themselves.
View 5 RepliesHow to disassemble the power fold mirrors on my 2011 F250.
The mirrors work in every way except they will not fold in or out. You can hear the motor start but then stops right away. It does not sound like the gear is stripped just that the motor is stuck some home. It happened to both mirrors about the same time.
I was going to take one apart and see if there is a issue. I can't see there being a electrical issue, but maybe, since the driver side starts then stops within 1 second. It's hard to tell about the passenger side since the switch is on the drivers side.
I just got my truck recently, when I purchased it the power mirrors do not work. Already checked the 5A fuse and it is good. Tried putting in a new switch from O'Reilly's and still did not work. Are these switches supposed to light up like the window and lock switch? Thinking it might be a break in the wiring or motors are seized but I've read that is not as common.
View 1 RepliesThe power mirrors on my F-250 works halfway. I can get them to move inward but not outward. They also will upward but not down. These are both mirrors. Could it be the switch?
View 3 RepliesI have a 1999 F250 Superduty with power tow mirrors. Both mirrors are having this issue. It seems both motors moving the mirrors are trying to run at the same time. I tried replacing the control switch since both mirrors are having the issue, but got the same results. Holding the switch to move the mirrors out causes it to move down and out. Moving it in and it goes up and in. I know from experience with electric on a vehicle that when funny things happen, its usually because it lost the ground.
View 1 RepliesI just bought a 2001 F250 XLT and it came with the standard power paddle mirrors. I would love to add the towing mirrors (preferably heated with signals), but what I am wondering is if the connectors for the mirrors are the same. Also would my truck that came with the standard paddle mirrors be wired for turn signals and heated options? How would I test for this? Also do all XLT's come prewired for the hardwire keyless entry pad if they have keyless entry?
View 1 RepliesSo two weeks ago I had a battery melt on me and I replaced it. Then last week I had the other battery almost blow up on me (it was a mess and smoking). I didnt use it all weekend. Today it started right up. I drove it like 500 feet and it just died. It is very weird. Both batteries are fully charged. Relay is good. When I put in the key it does nothing. No sound no radio no clicking. However, the gps still works (the online monitoring kind). I can fold in my out revie mirrors. And I can lock and unlock the doors. and the interior overhead lights come on. Nothing else has power at all. And I can't put it in neutral. Right now the truck is blocking my driveway so nothing can get in or our of here. I am wondering if it is some type of antitheft issue...
View 5 RepliesI have an 01 F250 with a v10. Driving through heavy snow in 2013 a plug blew out. Should I expect this to happen again if I do some heavy hauling and should I do something preemptive?
View 14 RepliesMy dad has a 2000 f250 4x4 with the 5.4. he said his blower would only blow on high. I told him it was his blower motor resistor. i thought it was under glove box. he took it apart and said no but there was a little box thing with wires he took off anyway and put back on. I then told him it was under hood below a/c lines. he replaced old one with a new one from auto zone and replaced the pigtail( plug too) fan works on high and a little bit on low very very little when u switch it to medium it stays the same. High works great. So we replaced the fan switch. (Radio was a bitch to remove) and it still does the same thing. I checked all fuses . when I check the plug at the resistor there is power to the center pin it stays on when u switch to low and medium but when u turn high on power goes out( on test meter) is there something I am missing? the blower blows on high even when u remove the plug from the resistor. Is that normal?.
View 4 RepliesSunday I bought a 2001 f250/5.4 to replace my 91 f250. I didnt drive it yesterday, but this morning on my drive to work the heater was very weak, it seemed to blow warm for the most part, but was barely pushing air even on high. I flipped it over to A/C to see if it blew any harder and it did. Does the blower motor need replace? if so why does the AC blow harder than the heater?
View 14 RepliesI had a 2014 F-250 I bought new. Absolutely loved the truck. Things got tight so I decided to sell it yesterday. I'm now looking at a 2005 F-250 with 113k miles. It's got a lift, 37" tires, DPF delete, pretty sure the EGR delete but not sure exactly what to look for under the hood. A ton of LED light bars, SCT tuner, I was told its bulletproofed by a dealer, and it's a king ranch. It runs great. I plan on having a diesel mechanic look it over but here are my concerns. It does have a slight bit of blow by coming from dipstick. Very little. Also a slight oil leak that looks like it's coming from the bell housing so maybe rear seal?
View 14 RepliesMy 2000 F250 SD 5.4 AWD's A/C wouldn't blow cold suddenly the other day. I confirmed the A/C relay (engine compartment, 3rd down from firewall)was "clicking" but compressor clutch was obviously not engaging with dash switch on Max A/C and engine running. When I take of the 2 wire connector to compressor to see if it is getting power, the truck won't start..if I disconnect the A/C compressor plug while running, the engine similarly quits. I have never had another vehicle do this on me before..I could unplug the compressor on my Jeep GC, for instance, measure 12+ volts with A/C ON w/car running and no problem with Jeep engine turning off.
I have searched for A/C wiring schematic w/o success. I checked every fuse in cab/engine for continuity since I don't know which ones might deal with A/C..jumped hi/lo pressure switch connectors with engine running/A/C ON w/o compressor clutch engaging. Clutch turns easily, have banged it a few times, and air gap looks good. More bizarrerly, I hooked the compressor to a 12V/ground via its 2 male prongs and didn't get the clutch to engage.
The truck starter and radio would magically turn on and off after the first rain, it was hard on the starter and I had to replace the starter and the cause of that problem was the vacuum line coming from the brake booster running over the top of the wires in the 4 plugs attached to the driver side fender. It rubbed through exposing the wires and got wet connecting them. I cleaned them and put the electrical tape silicone and then it has been working fine for a couple months.
Now every time I try to start fuse #20 blows. So far I have traced the wire that goes through fuse 20 through the firewall being the blue wire with a orange stripe on it it goes through the top plug upper left most wire. From there I followed it through the 4 wheel fender plugs the furthest plug from the firewall still being the blue with orange stripe. If I unplug that plug and try to start the truck it won't start but the fuse does not blow.
I then followed that wire all the way to the neutral safety switch. I hate tracing wires. (About 8 hours so far). I am thinking neutral safety switch. Also another thing I am thinking is weird is that blue wire with the orange stripe is grounded when the safety switch is plugged into the transmission and if it is unplugged is is not grounded. And I don't think it is supposed to be grounded because that is the hot wire when the key is in the start position.
Details about the truck : 1999 f250 diesel 7.3 super duty automatic 4x4 dated 4/99
I have taken pictures of the plugs and wires I was going to post it but don't remember how.
I have an 01 f250 5.4l standard. #19 fuse keeps blowing. I hAve taken the gauge cluster out and do not see any wires melted or burned. It blows the fuse as soon as I turn the key over. I have read things saying the overdrive but that doesn't work with mine.
View 4 RepliesI have 2005 F250 6.0 XLT. I was driving the other night and all of a sudden my dash lights went out. I noticed I was being flashed from other drivers and discovered that my parking lights are not working. A preliminary check of fuses I discovered fuse #17 (15a mini) was blown. I installed and new one and upon turning my lights on, the fuse popped again. My headlights and turn signals work properly. It appears I have a wire shorted to ground somewhere on this circuit.
The truck is completely stock with the exception of an aftermarket radio which I installed two years ago.
I checked all the fuses with my test light and they are all correct (both sides of each fuse). I disconnected the gray connector and black connector in the driver side rear of the truck to isolate the issue. New fuse pops as soon as I turn lights on. I completely removed the tail lights, trailer 7 pin connector , completely removed both headlights. I did not disconnect the roof running lights or the mirror lights. I am completely stumped.
08 F-350 Lariat. Folded mirrors in twice today. Second time they would not come back out. After four hours the fold function has not returned. As I read Owner's Manual, if it's a fuse it should take out power to driver's seat . . . correct? All other mirror functions including telescope seem to work normally. So if I've identified the fuse correctly what else could it be? Fold relay? Switch? Where is the fold relay located and how can one test it? What pins on the switch are the fold pins? I just looked at power distribution box schematic. Power fold mirror relay fuse is there. Apparently the only function it has. Better go check it out.
View 5 RepliesI have a 2006 F-250 Super Cab with climate control. The last three years when the temp exceeds about 85 degrees outside it acts up. It will switch from the AC vents to defrost and blow normal air through, not ac cold. Then it will switch back, when doing so I can hear the internal deflector shudder. It will do this every few minutes. It is extremely annoying. All other times of the year it works fine. My local dealer had the truck last year, but could not find anything wrong. I have used the search and also Googled and while I find similar problems nothing exactly the same.
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